chry. parts in a leaves attacked by leaf-blight. If santhcmum rust appears, burn the badly affected, and dip any others solution of sulphate of potassium. ' The number of subsequent shifts will vary according to the specimens desired. Plants for the production of large blooms should be in their fiowering-pots by June, when the outdoor stage begins. Simultaneous blooming will be assisted by the practice of cutting down. This should be done between the end of May and middle of June, beginning with late varieties. The decorative purpose for which the plants are required will govern the extent to which they are cut — i.e., from six to twelve inches, according to the height desired. Stand all pots out for the summer in an open space, light and airy, though not too exposed. Single plants should be laid along a level surface of ashes or gravel — running north and south if possible — the plants being stood upon this. Drive two posts into the ground at either end of the rows, and stretch wire between them at the required heights. The stakes in the pots will be secured to the wire, damage through wind being thus prevented. Thinning the buds must BOW be carefully attended to. Remove all side shoots, leaving the clean stem with main leaves only. For 3 X h i b i t i o n blooms follow this up by pinching out every side branch. Feeding should com- mence early in July. During the first fort- night give weak soot- water at regular intervals, increasing the strength later. Strong varieties need more feeding than weaker ones. Any good general fertiliser should prove satisfactory, but special chrysanthemum manures are put on the market. If a bag of well-decayed cow-manure is put in a tank of water, and the liquid drawn off, and each canful diluted to a very pale colour, this will give a healthy alternative diet. Soot-water is made in the same way. As soon as buds appear, stop feeding until they are seen to swell. The plants should be syringed thrice daily at first. Later twice will be sufficient. When the nights are dewy the second syringing must not be given late, forfear of encouraging mildew. f Watering must be done with care, remem- bering that flagging and other unhealthy conditions may arise from or the reverse. A beautiful group of the graceful single chrysanthemums, < that can be easily grown by the amateur gardener Copyriiihtt IVells 807 THK QARDCN Pests must be kept down, especially rust and leaf-blight. Earwigs, leaf-maggots, aphides, and hopper- flics must be looked for and promptly destroyed. Ladybirds, hovcrers, spiders, ichneumon, and lacewing flies are all useful friends to chrysanthemums. Very full directions concerning stopping, timing, and other matters relating to bud study, with the method suitable for different varieties of Japanese, incurved, reflexed. single, pompon, anemone, decorative, and other sections should be sought in tables prepared for the purpose. Northern growers must anticipate dates of all operations by about a fortnight. Taking Buds for Exhibition Blooms The " first break " occurs by the forma- tion of a flower-bud, fresh branches starting from the axils of leaves below it. Remove this bud, and then the fresh growths, leaving three only. A .second break should occur towards the end of July or during August, pro- ducing the " crown bud." If produced early, it may be wished to remove this, again thinning the shoots, and awaiting a second growth, which gives the " second crown." If the second crown also is removed, a cluster of buds called terminals will result ; these are excellent for a decorative display, though not often used for exhibition blooms owing to their size. In the case of failure to secure a crown, how- ever, the retention of the central bud of this cluster should give a good exhibition bloom. Some varieties succeed best if allowed to produce a natural crown without pinching. Standards for use in groups may be obtained by keeping a clean stem of the desired height, thinning and disbudding the shoots above to produce a shapely head. The plants should be housed as soon as the buds show colour. This will take place towards the end of September. Frost must, of course, be anticipated, and all other weather conditions be carefully considered. If mildew has appeared, syringe the plants with sulphate of potassium before housing. See that the house is clean and well- ventilated, aiming at a temperature of 50° F. Shade the plants during excessive sunshine, and fumigate the house at intervals to guard against aphides, etc. As the blooms expand, they should be carefully dressed if intended for exhibition, or, if for decoration only, be looked over before being arranged in the conservatory.
