77 To cut the brim, take the tape measure and measure off 6 inches along the back line, and 5^ along the front line, 7 J along the side DRE88 Get a piece of muslin, cut on the cross, I inch wide, and bind qver edge of wires and supports to prevent the wire from lines, and 6^ along front side lines, and 7 inches along back side lines. Cut round these marks so as to form an even oval. Be very careful to get your edge per- fectly straight all around. This is by no means an easy task. The edge of brims in amateur millinery — and, indeed, often among experts — leaves much to be desired in this respect, and may frequently be described as " bumpy." Diagram showing double wire round edge of brim buttonholed together, then stitched on to edge of brim with a long stitch on the top and a short stitch through. K The brim has now to be supported b}- wires to prevent drooping. In the shape given a wire support is required at front, back, and sides, as illustrated ; some shapes require more, others fewer, supports. In the case of small hats, or tiny mushroom shapes, supports are seldom required, and in all cases they must be used with discretion, as they add to the weight of a hat. On the other hand, an extra support must be used when a tilt or a droop on one side is desired. It is advisable to carry these supports right up the head. They are stitched on in the same way as the wire round the brim. SPAR.TRA. . I 2^ Inches cutting through. For binding supports, lay the muslin on flatly and stitch through. We now start the all-important crown ; this has to be made quite separately. Cut band of spartra 26 inches long by 3^ inches high, join into a round — the circumference being, when finished, 24 inches. ^Ar Inches , For top piece of crown, cut a round of spartra and fit it on the top. The measure- ments for crown to fit on to the band would be 7| by 7f . Wire round firmly, and sew on to band as illustrated, then cover the stitches with a binding of muslin. The bottom of the band is also wired. This hat — in the two separate pieces, namely, the crown and the brim — is not joined together until both are covered separately with the chosen material. Sketch of hat as it should look when covered with the material. The next article, in Part 2 of Every Woman's Encyclopaedia, will deal with the covering of shapes, and the cutting and stretching of fabrics. The shape is illustrated covered, but, as explained, the crown and brim should not be joined together until they are carefully finished separately.
