Page:Foods and their adulteration; origin, manufacture, and composition of food products; description of common adulterations, food standards, and national food laws and regulations (IA foodstheiradulte02wile).pdf/480

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"Even the large woody growth known as 'punk' or 'touchwood,' so frequently seen upon decaying trunks, is not spared. A huge specimen in my keeping was literally reduced to dust by a single species of beetle.

"Considering the prevalence of these fungus hosts, it is well in all mushrooms to take the precaution of making a vertical section through stem and cap, excluding such specimens as are conspicuously monopolized, and not being too critical of the rest, for the over-fastidious gourmet will often thus have little to show for his morning walk. I have gathered a hundred specimens of fungi in one stroll, perhaps not a quarter of which, upon careful scrutiny, though fair of exterior would be fit for the table. The fungus hunter par excellence has usually been there before us and left his mark—a mere fine brown streak or tunnel, perhaps winding through the pulp or stem, where his minute fungoid identity is even yet secreted. But we bigger fungus eaters gradually learn to accept him—if not too outrageously promiscuous—as a natural part and parcel of our Hachis aux Champignons, or our simple mushrooms on toast, even as we wink at the similar lively accessories which sophisticate our delectable raisins, prunes, and figs, to say nothing of prime old Rochefort" (pages 33-34).

E. Faupin, the author of the work "Les Champignons Comestibles et Vénéneux," gives some valuable hints respecting the confusion of edible and poisonous varieties of mushrooms. He also says that the so-called rules which are often formulated to distinguish the good mushrooms from the bad are nearly all misleading. If they are applicable in a few particular cases they surely are not in all, and consequently ought to be judged as of no value. For instance, it has been commonly said that the mushrooms whose flesh changes color when exposed are poisonous. This is true for certain kinds but it is not true for others. There are, indeed, some mushrooms whose flesh undergoes an alteration when it is exposed and which are, nevertheless, of most excellent quality. As an example of this, the variety known as "delicious lactaire" may be cited. On the contrary there are other kinds whose flesh remains white on exposure and which are decidedly poisonous, as for example Amanita citrina Pers. It is also said that a mushroom whose stem is surrounded by a ring is to be considered edible. This indication is altogether deceptive. Some of the most poisonous varieties have well formed rings. It is also misleading to credit the action of the juice of the mushroom in coloring a piece of silver. It is said that those mushrooms whose juice blackens silver are poisonous, while those which do not are harmless. This perhaps is the most dangerous of all the rules to go by, as some of the most poisonous varieties would be admitted on this test. It is also misleading to suppose, as is commonly the case, that mushrooms which are attacked by insects, larvæ, etc., can be eaten without danger. Likewise misleading is the general opinion that mushrooms whose odor is agreeable or which have no appreciable odor are