beaver, and fox furs were common, but the inhabitants of the Fylde, being of less exalted social standing, were obliged to content themselves with the skins of lambs and cats by way of adornment. The inferior farm servants, called serfs, amongst whom many of the vanquished Britons would be classed, were seldom indulged by their masters with more than a coat, a pair of drawers, and sandals, the shirt, we presume, being deemed ill suited to their positions of servitude and dependence.
The colonisation of the Danes, whatever effect it may have had upon the habits and condition of the people, exercised no lasting influence upon their dress, and it was not until half a century after the Norman baron, Roger de Poictou, had parcelled out the land amongst his tenants, that the bulk of the males were induced, by the example of the new-comers, to display their taste in the choice of a head-covering. Many varieties were daily open to their inspection on the brows of the Norman landholders and servants, but the diffidence, let us hope, of the now humbled Saxons suggested the adoption of an exceedingly plain flat species of bonnet, which speedily became the common cap of the district. The ladies, however, with a greater aptitude for rising superior to disappointment and affliction, were not dilatory in benefitting by the superior style of the fair partners of their conquerors, and soon, putting aside all semblance of depression, appeared in long cuffs, hanging to the ground from their upper dress sleeves and tied in a large knot; their kerchiefs, also, whose modest proportions had formerly served only to encircle the forehead, were now extravagantly lengthened and fastened in a similar manner. As years rolled on and fashion began to assert her sway with a greater show of authority, the shoes of the men underwent certain changes, becoming more neat in workmanship and having the toes somewhat elongated and pointed, whilst the richer of the gentry, chiefly Normans, wore short boots reaching a little distance up the calf. In the early part of the thirteenth century the female head-dresses consisted of nets, made from various materials, in which the hair was confined; and the trains of the gowns were lengthened. Later in the same era cowls or hoods, twisted and pinned in fanciful shapes, adorned the heads of the ladies, and formed the main feature of their walking costumes. Aprons also came up at that period. The dress of
