Page:Home labor saving devices (1917).djvu/59

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Directions:

Take the 2 sides (1" × 5" × 33-1/2") and round each end in the shape of a half circle, boring a 1" hole in each end of side piece to hold handles (1" × 1" × 15"). Fit bottom on inside of box and nail it. Mortise 3-1/2" from the top of the legs to fit cross pieces, 1" × 3-1/2" × 12". Make a 1/4" mortise on the legs 9" from the bottom for the support of the bottom shelf. Measure 2-1/2" from the top of the leg to put tenon for the front drawer support. Construct the opposite end of the table in the same way. The upper top of table, showing the lid and handle, should be fastened to top after the table is made. In making the frame for the drawer, 2-1/2" deep × 13-1/2" wide × 23-1/2" long, nail the front and back to the sides. Then nail the bottom of the drawer to the inside of this frame with one partition nailed crosswise the center of the drawer. Place handles on the front of the drawer about 3" from each end. Screw on the 2 pieces placed 9" from bottom of the leg, with 2-1/2" No. 10 screws. Cut the bottom shelf out 1-1/2" at each corner, fit to the legs, and screw. This shelf must be stationary. Brackets, 1" × 8" × 8", are screwed on at one end of the shelf to be used as supports to which the wheels are fastened. The drawer may be used for silverware and to keep the linen. The side used for silverware should be lined with felt or outing. The table should be well dressed by sandpapering, staining, and polishing it. Do not varnish it because this does not make so attractive a table as the mission stain.