MARK TWAIN
and uncomfortable that ingenuity could devise; the modern ship is a marvel of rich and costly decora tion and sumptuous appointment, and is equipped with every comfort and convenience that money can buy. The old ships had no place of assembly but the dining-room, the new ones have several spacious and beautiful drawing-rooms. The old ships offered the passenger no chance to smoke except in the place that was called the "fiddle." It was a repulsive den made of rough boards (full of cracks) and its office was to protect the main hatch. It was grimy and dirty; there were no seats; the only light was a lamp of the rancid oil-and-rag kind; the place was very cold, and never dry, for the seas broke in through the cracks every little while and drenched the cavern thoroughly. In the modern ship there are three or four large smoking rooms, and they have card- tables and cushioned sofas, and are heated by steam and lighted by electricity. There are few European hotels with such smoking-rooms.
The former ships were built of wood, and had two or three water-tight compartments in the hold with doors in them which were often left open, particu larly when the ship was going to hit a rock. The modern leviathan is built of steel, and the water tight bulkheads have no doors in them; they divide the ship into nine or ten water-tight compartments and endow her with as many lives as a cat. Their complete efficiency was established by the happy results following the memorable accident to the City of Paris a year or two ago.
One curious thing which is at once noticeable in
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