shown at b, is cut with a metal saw in two places, giving small nuts c and d; c is used on the inside and d on the outside of the propeller. The spoke is then cut off long enough to pass thru the propeller, a glass bead as a washer, and the anchor block, with room for a good hook on the end for the attachment of the rubber motor. The propeller will be discussed further in the next chapter; the only thing to be mentioned here is the size of the blank from which it is made, which is 12″×1″×4″. Another piece of the spoke is bent as in Fig. 224, and is inserted in the fore end of the spine and bent still further into shape like Fig. 225. This gives the other anchor hook for the rubber motor. One other piece is the small keel shown in the side view. A groove is made in the under side of the spine and the keel set in with glue.
I am using four rounds of 116″ rubber string for the motor. That makes eight strands. Six do very well. This is a very useful little model but it will not fly over fifty feet, or mine has not, but the fact that it does not fly far, gives you opportunity to study its start, its landing, and its flight. The long distance models are out of observation range so soon that we miss the chance to diagnose their crazy symptoms, if they have any, and most of them have some.
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Fig. 226.
At the beginning of model areoplane making, everyone seemed to try to see how much surface could be exposed in the planes, now the best models are those with as narrow planes as it is possible to use and still support the air craft. The reason is obvious—there is so much skin friction on broad surfaces. At the beginning, many were inclined to scoff at the rubber band motor, but since flights have been made considerably over a half mile, with this same power, it seems good enough for anybody. Most of the long distance flyers have long framework so as to accommodate long strands of rubber, which allow much increase in the winding up of the motor.
