CHAPTER VIII.
CROSSING THE ANTI-LEBANON.
The Harmless Guard — Cæsarea Philippi — The Valley of the Druses — The Sides of Mount Hermon — An Alarm — Threading a Defile — Distant view of Djebel Hauaran — Another Alarm — Camp at Katana — We Ride into Damascus.
We rose early, so as to be ready for a long march. The guard came — a mild-looking Arab — without arms; but on our refusing to take him thus, he brought a Turkish musket, terrible to behold, but quite guiltless of any murderous intent. We gave ourselves up to fate, with true Arab resignation, and began ascending the Anti-Lebanon. Up and up, by stony paths, under the oaks, beside the streams, and between the wheat-fields, we climbed for two hours, and at last reached a comb or dividing ridge, whence we could look into a valley on the other side, or rather inclosed between the main chain and the offshoot named Djebel Heish, which stretches away towards the south-east. About half-way up the ascent, we passed the ruined acropolis of Cæsarea Philippi, crowning the summit of a lower peak. The walls and bastions cover a great extent of ground, and were evidently used as a stronghold in the Middle Ages.
