288 LIFE IN JAVA.
After we had arrived at Groppio, our thirteenth post from Surabaya, and sixth from Modjokerto, the fresh horses took an obstinate turn, and gave so much trouble and annoyance to the coucer and lopers on starting, that the post-master was obliged to change them two or three times before we could proceed, the animals quarrelling amongst them- selves whether in play or anger I know not, but the refractory ones did nothing but prance and kick one another. As it was quite dark by the time we started, we were obliged, for safety, to obtain torches, that Drahman might carry one at the back of the carriage. These torches, which are made of split bamboo, are very large and thick, and when seen from a distance present quite an imposing effect. This is the usual mode of light- ing the vehicles unprovided with lamps, and when many carts or carriages are passing to and fro on the same road, I should think they must make quite a lively appearance. In our journey in