We walked, or rather climbed all over the island, which is hilly and rocky; and found several great stones entirely covered with the ancient carving. Moved by curiosity, we entered various caverns where idols have been found, and amongst others, one large cave, which we had no sooner groped our way into, than I nearly fell down suffocated by the horrible and most pestilential atmosphere. It appears that it is the sleeping-place of all the bats in the island, and heaven forbid that I should ever again enter a bat's bed-chamber! I groped my way out again as fast as possible, heedless of idols, and all other antiquities, seized a cigarito from the hand of the astonished prefect, who was wisely smoking at the entrance, lighted it, and inhaled the smoke, which seemed more fragrant than violets, after that stifling and most unearthly odor.
The chief food of these islanders, besides the gourds and other vegetables which they cultivate, is the white fish, for which the lake is celebrated; and while we were exploring the island, the Indians set off in their canoes to catch some for us. These were fried at the alcalde's, and we made a breakfast upon them, which would have rejoiced the heart of an epicure.
We then went to visit the church; and though the cottages are poor, the church is, as usual, handsome. Amongst other curiosities there, is a Virgin, entirely covered with Indian embroidery. The organist's place is hereditary in an Indian family, descending from father to son. The long-haired Indian who played it for us, has such a gentle ex-
