horses immediately, in order that we might proceed to Gaza to undergo the term of quarantine.
We had on the previous day despatched a second Arab, who had engaged for 20 dollars to take a letter to Consul Moore; but, much to our annoyance, he returned to us at breakfast time stating that he was sick; and, throwing down the money and letter, refused to go. This was another day lost. But our former messenger, Hassam, again volunteered; and, taking up the money and depositing the letter safely in the folds of his dress, departed, with a large supply of good wishes for a successful journey on our part.[1]
Having now a prospect of several days stay in The Ghôr, we determined to put the time to the best account in exploring more thoroughly the objects of interest around us. We visited the remarkable ruins described by Tristram, lying at the foot of the hills about two miles to the east of Es Safieh, and known as Khasa el Hassa (or Hessi), and of which he says "We have probably here merely the remains of a Roman village in the more peaceful days of the early empire."[2]
While here I proceeded to put into practice a mode of observing the landscape which I first learned some years ago in North Wales. Laying my head on the ground and lying on my side, I viewed in this position, first, the line of the mountain crest, and then the wooded slopes of The Ghôr, with the plain and hills beyond. The effects of colouring when seen in this manner are generally surprising, and often beautiful. In this case, all the colours of the mountain sides, the grey and brown of the limestone above, the red and purple of the sandstone, and the dark grey and brownish-red of the volcanic basis were seen to be blended and harmonised in a manner quite peculiar, and differing from the effect when seen in an erect position. There was thrown over the whole landscape (as it were) a halo of mystery. The softening and blending of the tints were of a kind which a Claud or a Turner have attempted to portray on canvas. My companions were no less struck with the effects than myself.
A bath in the River Hessi terminated the day's ramble.
- ↑ It is right that I should state that Mr. Hart more than once volunteered to carry a message to Jerusalem for the horses; but, knowing something of the risk he would have to run in traversing a wild and unknown region, inhabited for some distance by Bedawins of ill-repute, I felt unable to give my consent to his generous proposal.
- ↑ Supra cit., p. 48.
