Page:My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus.djvu/136

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WITHOUT GUIDES.
111

the advantage was not wholly on one side, thrown constantly in contact with his employers he acquired from them those minor rules of conduct and politeness which are essential if guide and traveller are to develop mutual friendship and respect. Of these early pioneers Melchior, Anderegg and a few others still remain; but, amongst the younger men, there are none with whom one could associate on the old terms and with the old intimacy. The swarming of the tourist has brought with it the wretched distinctions of class, and the modern guide inhabits the guide's room and sees his Monsieur only when actually on an expedition. Cut off from the intercourse of the old days, the guide tends more and more to belong to the lackey tribe, and the ambitious tourist looks upon him much as his less aspiring brother regards his mule.

The constant repetition of the same ascent has, moreover, tended to make the guide into a sort of contractor. For so many tens or hundreds of francs he will take you anywhere you like to name. The skill of the traveller counts for absolutely naught; the practised guide looks on him merely as luggage. Of course, if he be of abnormal weight and bulk, he must pay an additional number of francs, precisely as a man who rides sixteen stone has to pay a high price for a hunter; but, apart from the accident of weight, the individuality of the Herr is not considered.