turned off the ridge (5.10 p.m.), and led us through the wet slush of new snow, down the rib, to the point where our tracks of the morning could be seen in the couloir. He preferred, however, to keep to the rib, and after a little winding and dodging we once more got on to our morning's line below the part where we had taken to the couloir, and followed it to the glacier and the Bergschrund. This latter was in a very soft and dangerous state, and required careful engineering. Once over (6.5 p.m.), we ran along the snow fields and down on to the stony slopes above the Couvercle.
Making our way across to the Pierre à Béranger we picked up our traps, and after a short meal we started at 7.40 p.m. for the Montenvers, through a persistent drizzle. We had intended to go down to Chamonix that night, and in consequence had sent on our baggage, but on our arrival we found it was far too late to do so. Friends, however, most kindly arrayed us in various garments, and about 11 p.m. we did rare justice to the efforts of Monsieur Simond's cook.
It is needless to say the ascent was made under very unfavourable conditions. We were constantly compelled to halt in order to wait for a break in the mist, and it is probable that the impossibility of seeing what lay in front occasionally prevented our taking the best route. The climb is, however, most interesting, and is, throughout, absolutely free from all danger of falling stones.
