Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/127

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TRIMMING STITCHES
123

Ill. 266. Elaborate Beading Stitches and again, as before, the two close buttonhole-stitches over this loop. Catch the needle into the edge of the fold, and pass on to the next stitch. The link bar is not so difficult to make as it appears, and really can be done more quickly than the plain buttonhole-bar.

MORE ELABORATE BEADING STITCHES are shown in Illustration 266. The upper design is a combination of the link bar (described in the preceding paragraph) run diagonally across the open space, and a simple twisted stitch run straight across from the apex of each of the triangles thus made.

To make the second design from the top in Illustration 266, bring the thread up from one edge of the fold over to the opposite edge, take a stitch from the under side and draw the thread taut. Then insert the needle three-eighths of an inch from that point allowing the thread to form a tiny loop. Insert the needle again directly opposite the last hole, and from this point make five buttonhole-stitches in the loop. Now catch up the edge of the fold just where the first plain stitch began, and on the under side bring it over to the second plain stitch, and draw it up for the next loop.

In the third design in Illustration 266 the thread is first carried across from one fold to the other and left rather loose. Then the thread is brought up through the same fold one-quarter of an inch from the point where it was just inserted. Make five buttonhole-stitches in the loop formed of the thread in crossing, and insert the needle in the opposite edge.

Ill. 267. Rolled Edges Now carry the thread over again to form the next loop, running the needle into the same hole. Bring it up one-quarter of an inch below this point, and continue as before.

To make the buttonhole cross-bar stitch illustrated in the fourth design of Illustration 266, first make a buttonholed bar as described in the paragraph on simple beading stitches but do not draw it tight; rather let it curve a trifle. Then proceed as if for the next bar, but when crossing catch into the preceding bar at the center buttonhole-stitch, and then continue to the opposite edge. Make an even number of buttonhole-stitches on each side on this thread. Allow a small space between the cross-bars.

ROLLED EDGES are used as a trimming on waists and dresses of thin materials and also on children's clothes. They are worked with twisted embroidery silk on silk materials and with mercerized cotton on cotton materials. Either self or contrasting colors may be used. Ill. 268. Combination Running and Cross Stitch Hold the right side of the material toward you. Begin at the right end and roll the edge toward you between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, keeping the edge rolled for about one and a half inch ahead of the sewing. Fasten the thread at the right and take slanting stitches over the roll. The stitches should be about one-quarter of an inch apart. Do not draw the thread tight. (Ill. 267.)