Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/144

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140
THE NEW DRESSMAKER

Ill. 329. Simple Ruche attachment. In that case it is especially necessary to mark the sewing lines before beginning, as the machine does the work so rapidly that one is more apt to get an irregular line.

Ill. 330. Three-Tuck Ruche TUCK SHIRRINGS are prettiest made on the bias of the material. Shirr along the sewing lines of the tucks through both thicknesses of the material and draw up the fulness. (Ill. 326.)

SCALLOPS OR SNAIL SHIRRINGS are meant to be used as a band trimming. Make a narrow fold of the material, and run the shirring thread zigzag across from edge to edge. (Ill. 327.) As the work progresses, draw up the thread when the fold will acquire a scallop edge on both sides. If a wider fold is used, two threads may be run in close together. This will produce a more even trimming and one that will be less perishable. Ill. 331. Ruche of Frayed Taffeta CORD SHIRRING (Ill. 328) is made much like the tuck shirring. Tiny tucks are sewed in with a cord enclosed from the under side (See Ill. 295, page 130), and when the entire number of threads have been run in, draw up the fulness.

Ill. 332. Double Ruche with One Cording A SIMPLE RUCHE can be made from strips of the material. Cut off the selvedge, for the selvedge is stiff and would prevent the material from making a soft ruche. Join as many strips of material as are necessary to make the ruche the desired length. Turn under one raw edge of the strip and fold the strip so that it will be double, with the seam at the center of the under side. (Ill. 329.) Gather the ruche through the center just inside the fold edge. (Ill. 329.)

Ill. 333. Fluffy Double Ruche with Two Cord Shirrings A THREE-TUCK RUCHE is used when more fulness is desired than is given by a simple ruche. This is made by cutting the strips about seven inches wide. After joining the strips as before, fold them in thirds, bringing the two raw edges together three-eighths of an inch from the folds. Run a gathering thread through all the layers at one time. (Ill. 330.)