Ill. 61. Matching Cross Stipes at Underarm Seam
depth of color. If the pile ran down it would flatten down and lose its appearance of thickness and depth.
With panne velvet in which the pile is purposely flattened the pile should run down.
You can tell which is up and which is down by running your hand across the material. When the material feels rough the pile is running up, and when it feels smooth under your hand it is running down.
Some velvets have straight pile with no up or down. They can be cut either way.
In broadcloth the nap must run down, otherwise it will roughen up, become woolly and wear badly.
In all materials with a nap or pile the material takes the light one way with the pile running down, and another way with the pile running up, so that if all parts of the garment were not cut with the pile running the same way the garment would look as though it were made from two shades of the same material.
In kimono sleeve garments that are cut without a seam on the shoulder or in one piece it is impossible to have the nap or pile run the same way at the front and back. Get the best effect possible at the front, the back is less noticeable. In the pile fabrics let the pile run up in the front, in broadcloth and panne velvet have the pile run down in the front.
CUTTING STRIPES AND PLAIDS. Stripes, plaids and figured materials require more care in cutting than plain materials.
AN IRREGULAR PLAID can rarely be used on the bias, consequently the ways of making it up are limited. A dress made of irregular plaid requires more material than one made of regular plaid. The darkest stripes should run across the bottom with the lighter tones up, as the shading in this direction is better.
It must always be borne in mind throughout the cutting, that all pieces of the pattern must be placed with the upper part in the same direction on the material. An amateur had better use an even plaid.
In the beginning decide which stripe, plaid or figure is best for the center of the front and back.
In making a waist of striped or plaid material the stripes or plaids must match. It is advisable to cut and fit your waist lining first, if you are using one. Then if alterations were made you can alter the pattern of the outside waist before cutting your material. If you altered it afterward the alteration would spoil your arrangement of the stripe or plaid.
A plaid waist should be cut with as few pieces as possible. It can be made either on the straight or the bias of the material. Before you cut out your material decide which stripe, plaid or figure will look best at the center front and center back. In considering the position of the lines of the stripes and plaids you must consider the crosswise as well as the lengthwise lines of the material so that it will look well on the figure. In a plaid waist match the heavy lines of the plaid where the waist is joined at the underarm seam. (Ill. 61.) Arrange the plaids
