Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/93

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SEAMS
89
Ill. 159. Welt Seam

Ill. 160. Double-Stilched Welt

Ill. 161. Open Welt A WELT SLAM is made by first stitching a plain seam with the one edge of the material left very narrow. Then turn back the fold and baste down close along the narrower seam edge. Stitch parallel to the line of bastings, keeping the seam flat. Illustration 159 shows this seam with the machine-stitches ripped out at the top to expose the narrow seam edge underneath.

A DOUBLE-STITCHED WELT SEAM has an additional row of stitching set in one-fourth inch or less from the edge. (Ill. 160.)

AN OPEN WELT SEAM is first basted as for a plain seam. The tuck is then basted down flat, with the stitches directly over the line of bastings in the seam. With one row of machine-stitching the tuck-like fold and the seam are made secure. (Ill. 161.)

Ill. 162. Reverse Side of Slot Seam A SLOT SEAM is made by basting the seam as for a plain seam. The basting stitches should be short enough to keep the seam firm while it is being pressed open. Then baste an understrip of the material a trifle narrower than the combined width of the seam edges, directly under the basted seam. (Ill. 162.) From the right side, stitch the desired width on each side of the center. Remove the bastings. The turned edges, now free, give the slot appearance, whence the name. (Ill. 163.)

Ill. 163. Double-Stitched Slot Seam A DOUBLE-STITCHED SLOT SEAM is produced by stitching another row each side of the center, close to the turned edges. (Ill. 163.)

STRAP SEAMS are plain seams over which straps of the material are stitched for ornamental purposes. The strips for these straps may be cut lengthwise of plain material from pieces that are left after cutting out the garment, but experience has taught that when silk