Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/98

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CHAPTER 19

FACINGS

False Hem or Facing—Straight Facing—Bias Facing—Shaped Facing—Sewed-On Facing—Applied Facing—Extension Facing—Sewed-On Extension Facing—Applied Extension Facing—Corded Facing—Piped Facing

A FALSE HEM OR FACING is often preferred for the finish of an edge. A garment can sometimes be cut from less material by using a facing, for a hem requires extra length or width while a facing can often be cut from pieces which would not otherwise be used.

A hem is better than a facing for thin materials as the joining seam of the facing would show in transparent materials and would not be pretty.

Ill. 177. Stretching a Bias Facing to Fit a Curve A STRAIGHT FACING is used if the edge to be faced is a perfectly straight line, no matter whether the thread or grain of the goods is straight or bias. The facing may be cut lengthwise or crosswise of the material.

A BIAS FACING is used if the edge to be faced is curved, for the bias facing can be stretched to fit the shape of the edge. To stretch the facing press it, stretching it at the outer edge as you do so. (Ill. 177.)

Ill. 178. A Shaped Facing

A SHAPED FACING is cut the same shape and on the same grain of the material as the part to be faced. (Ill. 178.)

It is used on all edges which are not in a straight line but which are curved or irregular.

Ill. 179. Sewed-On Facing FACINGS may be sewed to an edge and then turned, or the edge may be turned first and the facing applied.

THE SEWED-ON FACING—The facing strips are pieced together and the seams pressed open. Baste and stitch the facing to the edge with the

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