8334.
Piece of Crimson Velvet, spangled with gold and silver stars, and embroidered with leaves and flowers in gold thread, once dotted with precious stones. North Italian, end of the 15th century. 14-1/2 inches by 5-1/4 inches.
The Genoese velvet of this piece is of a very deep ruby tone, deeper
than usual; but the way in which it is ornamented should not be passed
over by those who wish to learn one among the very effective styles of
embroidering. The design consists chiefly of branches gracefully bent
in all directions and sprouting out, here and there, with leaves and
variously fashioned flowers which, from one example that still holds its
tiny round-headed piece of coloured glass set in a silver gilt socket, bore
in them mock precious stones, and perhaps seed-pearls. These branches
themselves are made of common hempen string, edged on both sides
with a thread of gold of a smaller bulk, and the flowers are heightened
to good effect by the bright red stitches of the crimson silk with which
the gold that forms them is sewed in; and the whole of the design
appears to have been worked, first upon a strong canvas, from which it
was afterwards cut and appliqué upon its velvet ground. All the space
between the boughs is sprinkled rather thickly with six-rayed stars of
gold and silver, but the latter ones have turned almost black. This
piece was once the apparel for the lower border of an alb.
8335.
Piece of Silk Damask; upon a light blue ground, an elaborate pattern of pomegranates and flowers in pale yellow. Flemish, end of the 16th century. 24-1/2 inches by 21 inches.
Like, in many respects, to another piece of the looms of ancient
Bruges, it shows that the Flemings were unfortunate in their mode of
dyeing, for this, as well as No. 8332, has faded much in colour, but the
pattern is very rich and graceful. This textile is figured by Dr. Bock,
in his "History of Liturgical Robes," vol. i.