And with gold beaten full fetously,
His bodie was clad full richely.[1]
Many of the beautifully figured damasks in this collection are what anciently were known as "samits;" and if they really be not "six-thread," according to the Greek etymology of their name, it is because, that at a very early period the stuffs so called ceased to be woven of such a thickness.
Those strong silks of the present day with the thick thread called "organzine" for the woof, and a slightly thinner thread known by the technical name of "tram" for the warp, may be taken to represent the ancient "examits."
Just as remarkable for the lightness of its texture, as happened to be "samit" on account of the thick substance of its web, yet quite as much sought after, was another kind of thin glossy silken stuff "wrought in the orient" by Paynim hands, and here called first by its Persian name which came with it, ciclatoun, that is, bright and shining; but afterwards sicklatoun, siglaton, cyclas. Often a woof of golden thread lent it more glitter still; and it was used equally for ecclesiastical vestments as for secular articles of stately dress. In the "Inventory of St. Paul's Cathedral, London," A.D. 1295, there was a cope made of cloth of gold, called "ciclatoun:"—"capa de panno aureo qui vocatur ciclatoun."[2]
Among the booty carried off by the English when they sacked the camp of Saladin, in the Holy Land,
King Richard took the pavillouns
Of sendal, and of cyclatoun.
They were shape of castels;
Of gold and silver the pencels.[3]
In his "Rime of Sire Thopas," Chaucer says of the doughty swain,
Of Brugges were his hosen broun
His robe was of ciclatoun.[4]
Though so light and thin, this cloak of "ciclatoun" was often embroidered in silk, and had sewn on it golden ornaments; for we read of a young maid who sat,
In a robe ryght ryall bowne
Of a red syclatowne
Be hur fader syde;
