Page:The American Cyclopædia (1879) Volume XII.djvu/692

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678
OREGON

extending from the Cascade range to the Pacific ocean, embraces about a third of the state, and is divided by mountain chains into four districts differing somewhat from each other in soil, climate, and topography. The Coast mountains, running N. and S. at an average distance of 25 m. from the coast, vary from 1,000 to 4,000 ft. in height. The tract between them and the ocean is broken and hilly. Between the Coast and Cascade mountains, terminated on the south by the Calapooya range (1,000 to 2,000 ft. high), is the Willamette valley, a rolling prairie 40 by 140 m. in extent. S. of this is the Umpqua valley, consisting of alternate hills and vales, and S. of the Umpqua valley and separated from it by the Umpqua mountains (1,000 to 4,000 ft. high) is the Rogue river valley, of irregular width and diversified surface. It is bordered S. by the Siskiyou mountains (2,000 to 5,000 ft. high), which lie along the California border. Eastern Oregon, embracing all the state E. of the Cascade range, consists generally of undulating table lands, seamed by deep cañons, and marked by truncated cones of moderate altitude, which rise abruptly from the general level. It is traversed by the Blue mountains, which extend S. W. from near the N. E. corner of the state. These have an average altitude of 7,000 ft., but toward the north fall to 5,000 ft. They throw off spurs in various directions, which divide the country, particularly on the east, into a series of deep valleys. The Eagle Creek mountains are the most important of these spurs, extending 40 m. E. and W., and then N. along the Snake river, including the valleys of Burnt, Powder, and Grande Ronde rivers. They are cut in many places by cañons, with perpendicular faces from 1,000 to 2,000 ft. high. In the S. part of eastern Oregon are a number of minor mountain ranges, having an altitude of from 1,000 to 4,000 ft. The Great Basin extends into eastern Oregon from Nevada, stretching N. W. to the head waters of the Des Chutes river.—Oregon has a coast line on the Pacific of more than 300 m. Numerous capes and promontories are formed by spurs of the Coast mountains, the principal of which, commencing at the south, are Cape Orford or Blanco (the westernmost point of the state), Cape Arago, Umpqua head, Cape Perpetua, Cape Foulweather, Cape Lookout, Tillamook head, and Point Adams, at the mouth of the Columbia. The harbors are neither large nor numerous, but are generally safe. The first on the south is formed by Rogue river (lat. 42° 25′), reported to have two fathoms of water. Many rocks border the shore, and a dangerous reef, with a channel 1 m. wide, lies off the entrance. Port Orford (lat. 42° 40′) is safe during the summer, that is, while the N. winds blow, but is open to the south and is insecure during the winter months. The harbor is 2 m. long and 1 m. wide, and has good anchorage in from 4 to 6 fathoms. It has been proposed to make it a harbor of refuge by the erection of a break- water to protect it from S. winds, and the matter has been brought to the attention of congress. The Coquille river (lat. 43° 7′) is accessible by vessels of light draught. Coös bay (lat. 43° 21′) is about 10 m. long and 2 m. wide, and has a depth of from 3 to 4 fathoms; the bar sometimes fills up in winter, which prevents large vessels from crossing it for a week or two. Umpqua river (lat. 43° 41′) is accessible by vessels drawing 3 to 15 ft. Yaquina bay (lat. 44° 40′) is about 4 m. long and 2 m. wide; the bar has a depth of less than 2 fathoms at low water. Tillamook bay (lat. 45° 34′) has an area of about 6 sq. m.; the entrance has a width of 600 yards, with a channel 135 yards wide and from 4 to 8 fathoms deep. Nehalem river (lat. 45° 41′ 30″) forms a bay 4 m. long and 8 m. wide, with an entrance from 200 to 400 yards wide, and a depth of 18 ft. at high tide. False Tillamook bay (lat. 45° 45′) is nearly round, ¾ m. in diameter, with an entrance ¼ m. wide, opening to the south, and is secure except against S. winds. The Columbia river furnishes the best harbors in the state. Between Cape Disappointment (now officially called Cape Hancock) and Point Adams it is 5 m. wide. It has two channels: the south channel, more than 2 m. wide, with a depth of 4 fathoms at the lowest stage; and the north channel, more than 600 yards wide at the narrowest point, with a depth of 3½ fathoms. Its chief drawbacks are a shifting bar and the prevalence of fogs at certain seasons. On Cape Disappointment at the N. entrance is a lighthouse, while Point Adams at the south is the site of Fort Stevens. There are several other lighthouses on the coast.—The Columbia forms the N. boundary of the state for about 300 m., and is navigable by steamers the entire distance, with portages of 6 and 15 m. at the Cascades and the Dalles respectively, around which railroads have been constructed. Ships ascend 115 m. above its mouth. Its chief tributary W. of the Cascade mountains is the Willamette, formed by the junction near Eugene City of three streams, known as Coast, Middle, and McKenzie forks, which rise in the Cascade range S. of Diamond peak. The Willamette flows N. 155 m., and joins the Columbia 110 m. above its mouth. It is navigable by light steamers in summer 126 m. above Portland, and by sea-going ships 18 m. Navigation was formerly obstructed by the falls at Oregon City, but the difficulty is now overcome by locks constructed at a cost of $450,000. The chief tributaries of the Willamette are the Tualatin and Yamhill from the west, and the Clackamas, Santiam, and Calapooya from the east. East of the Cascade mountains the Columbia receives the Des Chutes river, which rises in the Cascades near the source of the Willamette, and after a N. course of about 250 m. joins the main stream a few miles above the Dalles. Crooked river rises in the Blue mountains, and after a N. W. course of 75 m. joins the Des Chutes near the centre of the