Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/63

elbow being made ½ breast plus ½ inch; the forearm being hollowed 1 inch from that quantity. The width of the cuff is made ¹⁄₆ breast plus 1 inch, and 1 turn-back cuff is made 4 inches at front and buck and 5 inches at the top.

MILITARY GREAT COATS. DOMINION OF CANADA

A Special pattern Overcoat is worn in Canada. It is cut from heavy milled cloth of the colour as for ordinary great coats, and is made D.B., with a stand and fall collar, high enough to fully cover the ears when turned up. In shape, it is of the body coat pattern, but made somewhat looser so as to fit over the Mess or Patrol jacket; it is cut In reach within a foot of the ground, glissade is used to line the sleeves, and cloth the body and skirts. Astrachan fur is used for the covering of the collar, black on the blue coats, and grey on the grey coats; the lapels are lined with similar fur on the inside, that is, the surface next to the breast when the lapel is fastened up; the fur on the collar and lapels is doubled over the cloth, forming an edging 1 inch wide on the reverse side; the edging is continued down to the waist scam. The cuffs are trimmed with similar fur, 5½ inches deep all round; four loops of 4 inch black square cord down the front on each side, each loop forming an eye in the centre, on top and below, and a crow's loot at the end. Black netted Olivett on each loop near to crow's foot, two Olivetts on the waist behind. A pocket is placed on the inside of the left breast, and pockets inserted in the pleats of skirt; three hooks and eyes are put on the collar, and shoulder straps of the same cloth as garment, with neat button at the top; fur used for Officers of Rifle Regiments is black.

The method of cutting is as follows:- Draw line O E, O to 1, 1 inch, 1 to A ¹⁄₆ neck, plus