WINE. 568 WINE. ■wines are commonly sold here under the names of famous brands. The wines of the Gironde naturally arrange themselves into the following classes: Jledoe, Graves. Sauterne, Entre-deux-mers, Saint Emi- lionnais, Bourgeais, and Bla3'als: subdivision.s which are, in a sense, geographical and vary in size from three cantons to the greater part of a department. They are also graded according to their supposed relative merits. The first classi- fication of the Medoc wines was made in the eighteenth centurj% and has not been revised since 1S55, when six groups were made, the first five called 'classified growths,' and originally valued in the order of their number. This classi- fication is rigorously retained, and it is difficult for a wine to be promoted into a higher grade even though it may make such a reputation as will demand a higher price than many in the grades above it. First Growth: Chateau Lafitte, PouiUar; Chateau JIargaux, Margaux; Chateau Latour, PauiUac; Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac. Second Growth: Chateau Mouton, Pauillac; Chateau Rauzan-S^gla, Margaux; Chateau Rauzan-Gas- siee, Margaux; Chateau Leoville-Lascascs, Saint- Jjilicn : Chateau Lgoville-Poyferre, Saint -Julien; Chateau Leoville-Barton, Suint-Jiilien ; Chateau Durfort-Vivens. Margaux: Chateau Laseombes, Margaux; Chateau Gruaud-Larose-Sarget, Saint- Julien; Chateau Gruaud-Larose, Saint-Julien: Ch.ateau Branne-Cantenac. Cantenac; Chateau Pichon-Longueville, PauiUac: Chateau Pichon- Longueville-Lelande, PauiUac; Chateau Ducru- Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien ; Chateau Cos-d'Estour- nel, Saint-Estcphe; Chateau Montrose. Saint- Estephe. Third Growth: Chateau Kirwan. Cantenac; Chateau Yssan, Cantenac; Chateau Lagrange, Saint-J uUen ; Chateau Langoa. Saint- JuUen ; Chfiteau Giseours, Labarde; Chateau Malescot, Margaux; Chateau Brown-Cantenac. Cantenac: Chateau Palmer, Cantenac; Chateau La Lagane, Ludon; Chateau Desmirail, Mar- gaux; Chateau Canon-Segur, Saint-Estephe ; Chateau Ferri6re, Margaux; Chateau Becker, Margaux. Fourth Growth: Chateau Saint- Pierre. Saint-Julien: Chateau Dulue-Branaire. Saint-Julien: CJiateau Talbot, Saint-Julien; Chateau Duhart, PawiVfoc; Chateau Poujct, Can- tenac: Chateau La-Tour, Saint-Laurent ; Cha- teau Eoehet, Saint-Estcphe; Chateau Bcychevelle, Saint-Julic.n ; Chateau Le Pricure, Cantenac: Chateau Marquise-de-Tlicrnio. JIargaux. Fifth Growth: Chateau PontptCanet, PauiUac: Clul- tcau Batailley, PauiUac: Chaleau Grand-Puy- Lacosle. PauiUac; Chateau Pucasse-(!randPuy, PauiUac: Chateau Lynch-P.ages, PauiUac: Cha- teau Lyneh-Moussas, PauiUac: Chateau Dauzac, Laharde ; Chateau Mouton-d'Armailhacq. Pauil- lac; Chateau Le Tertre, Arme ; Chateau TTaut- Bages-Liberat, Pauillac; Chateau Pedesclaux. PauiUac; Chateau Belgravc, Saint -Laurent ; Chateau Caniensac, Saint-Laurent ; Chateau Cos- Labory. Saint-Estephc : Chateau Clerc-Milnn, Pauillac; Chateau CroizetBages, Pauillac: Cha- teau Cantemerle, Macau. Each of the Gironde districts makes wines distinctly difTerent from those of the other dis- tricts. l)ut tliis distinction is not conunonly >ui- derstood. and the great majority of the wines of the Gironde region are sold simply as Bor- deaux, although they might be described more exactl}' as Medoc, Graves, or Saint Emilionnais. The wines of Burgundy, which once ranked highest, are still held in high estimation by con- noisseurs. Burgundy is rich in flavor, smooth, velvety, and when aged has a peculiar delicate aroma not present in the new wine. It has a me- dium content of alcohol, aeid, and body, is very low in tannin, and rather lacking in color. The vineyards, consisting of Pinots. (iamai Xoir. and Meunier grapes, are located about half wav up the hillsides (800-1000 feet high) in the 'COte d'Or between Dijon and Chalons. Red and white varieties, which are made from the same grapes, are equally esteemed. The growths of Burgimdy are classified as follows: Red Burgundg: Class L — Eomanee-Conti, Chambertin, Clos Vougeot, Richebourg, and La Tadie; Class II. — Musigne, Romance, Saint-Vivant, Le Clos, Saint-Georges, Le Corton, Les Bonnes Mares, Le Clos du Tart; Class III. — Arvelets, Rugiens, Beaumont, Cailles, Cras-ilurge, Boudots. Porrets, Prouliers, Thau- re.v, Vaucrains, Cailleret, Champaigns, Clavoil- lon, Clos Margeot, Clos Tavannes. Xoyer, Bart, Carton, Echezaux, F6vcs, Greves. Ferrif're, Sau- tenot. 'SVhitc Burgundg : Class I. — Montrachet; Class II. — Chevalier jMontrachet, Batard Mon- trachet, Charmes, Combettes, Genevrieres, Goutte d'Or. Charlemagne. Similar to the wines of Bur- gundy, but inferior to them, are those of Chablis and Macon. CllAMP.iGXE. True Champagne, which is char- acterized by the low alcohol content and high acidity, is made in the Department of Rheims, or the ancient Province of Champagne, the region being divided into six districts. Ay. Bouzy, erz- enay, Cramant, Pierry, and Monthelon, and the products of each being classified in various growths. The vineyards, located upon south- erly hillsides, consist mainly of Meunier, black and white Pinot, and Gami varieties, the fruit of which is often gathered before fully matvire, and, when necessary, the must brought to the proper composition by the addition of sugar and acid before fermentation. In 1000 the products of the region were .i8,000,- 000 liters, and after an addition of sugar and water to the lees. 0.000.000 liters more. Xo wine from other districts is permitted to be sold in France as Champagne, but vintners in this district purchase the products of neighboring sec- tions for blending, the result being that wines labeled Champagne can be purchased in Paris for very small sums. Many sparkling wines which compare favorably with Champagne are im|iroper- ly so called, among such being certain Rhine, Moselle, and American wines. To meet the de- mand for cheap articles, much wine is artificial- ly carbonated, like soda water, but the etTcr- vescence subsides sooner tlian in wine fermented under pressure. .Ii-ra Tyi'E. The wines of the DeiiarfuuMit of Jura, made from such grapes as Cesar. ^Inndeuse, Etraire de I'.Vdhui. Sirali. and Tinta Valde- pefias. are deep-colored and astringent, fuller, smoother, less arom.atic than the Bordeaux, mark- edly difTerent from the delicate, smooth Bur- giuidies of the Cote d'Or, upon which the district liorders. .nnd also from the neutral wines of South- ern France. Their average composition i-^: alco- hol. 1I..)0 per cent.; body, S.OO per cent.; acid, 0.55 per cent.; tannin, 0.25 per cent.
