Page:The practical designer for women's and misses' underwear (Rosenfield 1918).djvu/38

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THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER



WOMAN'S PANTALOON PAJAMAS, FRONT PART—Size 36


Lesson No. 415


In order to begin the pantaloon pajamas follow the outlines according to the principle of the bloomers and the measurements for the same as follows:

Waist 25 inches
Hip 43 inches
Outside Length  41 inches
Bottom 18 inches
Rise 12 inches

To begin to draft draw lines from A to K and A to D. Measure from A to B 12 inches rise and from A to D 41 inches outside length. Work the hip the same way on the hip line, ½ of hip measurement from B to H and from H to I measure 1/6 of hip measurement. Raise up a straight line from H to K and measure 1/6 of hip from H to J and cross a line from J to X. Measure from K to O, ¼ of waist measurement amounting to 6¼ inches according to 25 inches waist. From O to P allow 2 inches for seams. Raise up from P to O a ½ inch and lower from K to R with ½ inch and connect a line from R to Q. Then curve from Q to X down to B for hip curve.

Now finish the lower part of the front. Divide the space equally between B and I making S. Then measure the space from B to S and place the same at the bottom line from D to W and draw a straight line from W towards S up to L. Measure from W to 3 at the bottom line ¼ of bottom measurement which is 18 inches, amounting to 4½ inches. From I to G at the hip line measure 1 inch and connect G to 3, which makes the inside seam and connect with a curved line from I towards 1, which is about at the knee line. This will complete the front part with all seams allowed.


BACK PART


Lesson No. 416


To continue with the back part note diagram of the back. First complete the front part and then continue the back as follows: Raise the center line up from L to K and measure there 3 inches. Measure from L to A, ¼ of waist measurement amounting to 6¼ inches and from A to P allow 3 inches for seams and gathers for the back part. Then connect a line from P to K. Connect a line from K to J for the back crutch part and continue with a curve from J towards I to H and M. The space from I to H is 1/12 of hip measurement and from H to M is 1 inch allowed for seams. Note that H and M is ½ inch lower from the hip line. Then add from 1 to Y and 3 to F 1½ inches and the same amount of 1½ inches should be allowed from 4 to E and 2 to C. From B to U at the hip line allow 3 inches. Then curve, as shown on the diagram, the inside seam of the back part from M towards Y to F and the outside seam of the back part connect from P to U towards C to E. Then connect with a straight line at the bottom E to F which will complete the back part with fullness around the waist.

If fitted pantaloon pajamas are wanted around the waist take out the dart by dividing equally from P to K making O at the back waist line. Draw a line down from O to T 4 inches and take out 1 inch from both sides of O to V and W lost to T, as shown on the diagram. This will complete the back part of the pantaloon pajamas with all necessary seams allowed.