Page:Things Japanese (1905).djvu/136

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124
Dress.

the common people, while the children disport themselves in a state of nature. It is not unusual to see a kerchief (hachi-maki) tied over the brow, to prevent the perspiration from running into the eyes. Travellers of the middle and lower classes are often to be distinguished by their kimono being lifted up and shoved into the sash behind, by a kind of silk drawers called patchi, by a sort of mitten or hand-protector called tekkō, and by a loose overcoat (kappa]. The peasants wear a straw overcoat (mino) in rainy or snowy weather.

The Japanese costume for women is less different from that of the men than is the case with us. In many districts the peasant women wear trousers and rain-coats, like their husbands. This, coupled with the absence of beard in the men, often makes it difficult for a new-comer to distinguish the sexes. In the towns, the various elements of female dress are as follows. Beneath all, come two little aprons round the loins (koshi-maki and suso-yoke), then the shirt, and then the kimono or kimonos kept in place by a thin belt (shita-jime). Over this is bound the large sash (obi), which is the chief article of feminine adornment. In order to hold it up, a sort of panier or "improver" (obi-age) is placed underneath, while a handsome string (obi-dome) keeps it in position above. Japanese women bestow lavish care on the dressing of their hair. Their combs and hair-pins of tortoise-shell, coral, and other costly materials often represent many months of their husbands salaries. Fortunately all these things, and even dresses themselves, can be handed down from mother to daughter, as jewels and lace may be in European lands, Japanese ladies fashions not changing quickly.

A Japanese lady's dress will often represent a value of 200 yen, without counting the ornaments for her hair, worth perhaps as much again. A woman of the smaller shop-keeping class may have on her, when she goes out holiday-making, some 40 or 50 yen's worth. A gentleman will rarely spend on his clothes as much as he lets his wife spend on hers. Perhaps he may not have on more than 60 yen's worth. Thence, through