in church, and pays two shillings for a license, he is liable to arrest if he marries another wife.
Saturday, March 29.—We are at the far-famed
Victoria Falls today, and traveled here from Bulawayo
at the terrific pace of fourteen miles an hour. The
conductor on the train wore a natty white suit, but did
not make up the beds, though he sold the bedding
tickets; the actual chambermaid was a very black native
boy. I do not understand why sleeping-car porters
are permitted on some night trains, and not on
others. . . . I was in a sleeping compartment with
a captain in the English army, who is on his way to a
station in the interior, seventy miles from Victoria
Falls. There, in company with another army officer,
he will rule a district, assisted by a few native police.
He says hunting is excellent where he is going, and he
showed me his assortment of guns; including one specially
intended for elephants. . . . The country
between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls (280 miles) looks
superior to that between Mafeking and Bulawayo, but
we ran into the inevitable desert, and suffered considerably
from dust. As we approached the falls the country
became rougher, and an hour before we finally left
the train we could see a cloud of mist hanging over the
great cataract. When the train stopped at Victoria
Falls station—the railroad runs four hundred miles beyond
this point—we could hear the roar which will be
in our ears constantly until we leave next Wednesday at
1 P. M.. . . There is no town at the Falls; only a
