mountain which has destroyed so many lives. It is particularly peaceful just now, and I saw no smoke issuing from the crater. Seven years ago it went on a rampage, and destroyed several villages and six or seven hundred lives. At that time the mountain lost three hundred feet of its top, and is so insignificant-looking now that a good many visitors to Naples do not make the journey to the summit, which is easily accomplished by electric and cog railway. A mountain near Vesuvius is now higher than Vesuvius itself, but the wicked old pile will grow, and no doubt will erupt at some time in the future, and kill thousands again. Stromboli, which we saw yesterday, is a much more impressive sight at present than Vesuvius.
Friday, May 2.—It has been said a good many times
that Italy has too many churches and royal palaces.
Naples has two royal palaces, although the king lives
at Rome. One is in town, and the other in the country,
near the sea. We visited the king's town palace,
as it is open to the public two days of the week. There
are eight hundred rooms in the place, and twelve hundred
servants care for it. . . . A room in a king's
palace is usually a huge affair, probably 100x50 feet,
with an oval ceiling, and great chandeliers containing
candles specially manufactured for royalty. The furniture
in each room is of a different pattern; fancy chairs
and divans made of gilt and brocade. No palace seems
to have been made as a place of residence for a family,
but for show, and intrigue, and murder, and dancing,
