The Cutters' Practical Guide (1898)/Part 1/Trousers
TROUSERS.
We now come to deal with trousers, and doing so we feel the immense importance of the subject, and the very great difficulties which stand in the way before we can possibly attain perfection, so much so that we are more than ever convinced a trouser which shall fit without a wrinkle or crease in any of the various positions the legs may assume in conjunction with the body is a practicable impossibility, yet these are the garments many expert, and it is nothing to he surprised at if they are disappointed. To such we hold out no hopes. our endeavours will rather be to place such princi- ples as will enable the intelligent cutter to dis- tinguish what causes produce given effects, and to no apply them as to reduce the defects in trousers to a minimum. It may interest many of the "perfection seeking close" to examine their own body minus the clothing in a looking glass, and by placing themselves in a variety of positions to see how the skin wrinkles and creases and forms folds of surplus length and width; or if they wish some thing easier, let them screw up their hand in such a position as would be done if dipping up water, and then look at its crease and folds, or, still further, look at the knuckles and see the surplus skin form itself in ridges on them; what is the purpose of it all but to allow of certain move- ents? Bend the knuckles or open the palm, there is no surplus material there then; just so is it with trousers, and what is the production of our great Creator would hardly be called a misfit, a flaw, or a blemish, but rather looked upon as an illustra- tion of the perfection of his work, and yet when we apply the same principle to the production of trousers and produce identical effects with material far away less elastic than the skin, the surplus length which allows for variation in position is looked upon by some as a defect. How many tailors are there who are trying every fresh system and all sorts of dodges to get rid of the creases at the back of thighs just directly under the ball o the seat? Yet if the maker of the system knows his business he would make a special arrangement in the working of his system which would produce just that surplus length at that part to enable the wearer to sit flown or stoop, and yet this is pro- ductive of these very folds, and we should advise them to relinquish such a "Will o' the wisp" chase, for if they got what they wanted they would find it far from what they expected, and that other and far more serious faults would be apparent at other parts if these were absent.
Again there is no system no perfect in its applica- tion but requires departing from for certain forms of figures, and the method we are about to eluci- date is no exemption. Space, however, will prevent our dealing with any other than the upright well formed figure, so refer our renders to the Federation Prize essay on trousers cutting or the new work on Livery Garments for our views on the deviations necessary for the various abnormalities to be met with in daily practice, such as corpulent and thin waists, knock knees, bow legs, and many other irregularities in form and position. The system as laid down in these, although practically the same in effect, is not exactly the same as in the above work, the reason for the few alterations made will be fully explained when we come to it. Preparatory to this it will he as wall to look at those principles or constituent parts which govern the fit and go to make up a pair of trousers. It is needless to remark they consist of a body and two legs, yet it is in the relation the one bears to the other that many of the defects may be traced, for it must always be remembered that the legs of the trousers are forced to follow the legs of the wearer except to the small scope allowed by their width, and just as they are made to swing in or out, or in other words are open or close, will there be cleanness about the fork or surplus material there. Then again them is another factor to the fitting of trousers, and one which is often overlooked, viz., the harmony of the parts, that is the undersides being cut the same in the balance as the topsides, and we are of opinion very few indeed are to be found fully cognisant of the result that would be produced by letting the undersides pass up or down at the sideseams. We all know it affects the hang of the sideseam, but it does not end there, and if those who are striving after knowledge on this topic will make the experiment, we think they will learn much from it.
The Body Part
Is precisely the same as is contained in the plaid Kilt, or any garment which wraps right round, independently of the legs. For convenience sake We divide it into top and undersides, and there is of course no actual necessity for a sideseam in this, it only asserts its claims when the legs are added. If we were going to cut a perfectly close-fitting garment without any division of the legs, it would be necessary for us to allow a certain amount for ease over and above the consumption of seams, for which of coruse we should allow the usual 1⁄4 inch. It is rather an interesting, and certainly a very instructive experiment, to test how much the body expands at the seat when sitting, and especially to those who have never thought why so much more was allowed over the measures of the seat than was consumed by the seams. In teaching, we always make it a practice to give a reason for all we do; possibly some are more apparent than others, if so, this is one of the most so, for we find that the difference between a measure taken fairly close round the seat, about the hip bone, is at least 11⁄2 or 2 inches smaller than if taken with the same degree of tightness when sitting, hence the necessity of allowing 1 inch or thereabout for ease, besides the 1⁄4 inch for every seam. At the waist there is no expansion such as this to be provided for, so that the allowance for seams is sufficient at that part. An interesting question, however, comes in at this juncture, viz., it what part should this inch of ease be placed? Some allow it on the back seam and produce a very round seat seam, others allow it on the sideseam. It has been our custom, however, to place it midway, which is done by taking out a 1 inch fish at about the middle, or a trifle nearer the sideseam of undersides, see
Diagram 68.
This method distributes the size more equally over the seat, and we have always found it to produce satisfactory results. However, we have no wish to say it is the only spot for it, for although the figure increases in width when sitting, get un- doubtedly the increase takes place at the back, so that although we have every confidence in the plan we have laid down as being the most satisfactory, and as far as we can see in accordance with the development of the figure when sitting, yet if our readers think it should be put on the seat seam in the form of a round at S, in diagram 57, they may do so, but in doing so they must not reduce the angle from the fork point to the top of sideseam or undersides, so that the V will be taken as it were from the seat seam at back. We only mention this so as to fully explain principles, and why patterns, apparently so very different in outline, may both fit very nearly the same.
The Fork.
This is undoubtedly that part which joins the forepart to the undersides through the logs, and although it is very closely allied to seat angle, yet it is a totally distinct quantity and one which serves a different purpose. In the Federation Prize Essay, this quantity was obtained by taking the tight thigh undress side and treating the thigh as a circle, taking the diameter of it. It has occurred to us this is scarcely logical, and although it has been found to operate in the most satisfactory manner in thousands of cases, yet we think this will be, if possible, an improvement; at any rate it will be a more logical treatment of it. and with the view of making this as plain as possible, we have prepared.
Diagram 71
Which shows the gluteal and femorial sections of the body in their relative positions to each other. or, Speaking in easier language, the Seat and thighs. The thigh although being slightly elliptical, yet is not sufficiently so to demand any variation of the treatment from a circle, and as we undoubtedly have to deal more with circumference than diameter in commotion with this, we have come to the conclusion that 1⁄4 of the circumference of the tight thigh, plus the allowance for dress (which may be easily determined by taking the measures of both thighs at the same degree of closeness will give us as nearly as possible the correct amount of fork. This will in most cases come to exactly the same as the diameter, as both bear a fixed relation to the circumference, the allowance for dress varying from 3⁄4 to 11⁄2 inches. Let us take as an example a lad with a 32 seat, and 19 thigh; the diameter would be 6, whilst 1⁄4 would be 43⁄4 plus 11⁄4 equal 6. Some may consider 11⁄4 excessive for dress allowance, but we think not, as it is the universal custom to put whatever surplus shirt there may be at that part on the dress side; but if the measurement should prove 1 inch to be sufficient, well, the difference is then only 1⁄4 inch, and we are of opinion the present quantity would be the most correct. Turning to the diagram. F to G shown the diameter, and D to E the part allotted to the fork with the addition of the dress at that side. It will be noticed from this diagram the ball of the seat extends backwards beyond the thigh, as illustrated from G to H; this is what necessitates a certain amount of seat angle, coupled with the necessity for an allowance for stooping, sitting. and so on. The former will require a 1 inch wedge, and the latter about 2 more, and making in all about 3 inches, this sent angle may be looked upon as a wedge let in the trousers directly above the thighs, and is shown on diagram 68, and bounded by 3, 9, 12. If we make a mark on the body just on the round of the seat, and another just about mid thighs, and measure the distance between these in an upright or standing position, and again, with the body bent as when in the act of snooping or sitting, we shall find the distance between the two marks on the skin has increased at least 4 or 5 inches. This shows the necessity for sitting down room, or to use the more technical term, "seat angle." When the body is so bent, there is no surplus length at top of thighs, but there is decidedly too much material in the lap; this, however, vanishes when the figure stands upright, and the wrinkles and folds appear at the bottom of neat. That this is necessary will be apparent to all, and it is the direct results of those allowances for sitting, stooping, etc. Of course if a gentleman desired a pair of trousers only to walk in, and we believe such demands are occasionally made, this seat angle might be reduced, to say, 1 inch, and the amount for ease almost. if not entirely dispensed with; but it is not every one who will have special trousers for each exercise he may take, hence the necessity for our producing garments that shall meet the general wants, and be as free from defects as possible. We trust that this will be sufficient to show that it is quite possible to produce a "Fashion Plate fit" on any one, so long as they remain in one position, but as to the fit being perfection in every position, the thing is an impossibility and should never be expected.
We now come to deal with another point in connection with trouser cutting, and that is: which is the most reliable measure to use as a factor in finding the fork quantity, the thigh or the seat? Some assert one and some the other, whilst others again look upon it as immaterial. Dr. Wampen is of this latter class, giving it as his opinion there are counteracting influences at work which almost nullify the variations which would be produced by either plan. However, we prefer
The Thigh Measure
For this purpose, and our reasons for doing so are as follows: by a reference to figure 1, it will be seen that the thigh bone is one of those parts of the human frame work, the skeleton, which always remains near the surface of the skin, and that any abnormal developmental the thighs would take place at the inside of the leg. A reference to the figure will show that about three-fourths of the length of the thigh is on the inside of bone, and consequently it increases or diminishes at that pert, and as it does so it increases or decreases the distance between the legs at the crutch B, diagram 71, and at 10. figure 1. This archway is termed the cocyxial quantity. Now this has nothing to do with fork, but rather the division of the width of the leg. so that it is hollower or straighter accord- ing as it increases or diminishes, so that whenever the thigh is small, the fork requires to be less, but the stride more, and vice versa. Of course it is only in extreme cases the difference between the two methods are seen, and as we believe in such the thigh measure would give the most accurate results, we have adopted it, looking upon it as occupying the same relation to trouser cutting that the shoulder measure does to coat cutting; in fact the parts are very similar in their developments of growth; for just as the line or the top of the shoulder at 1 x, figure 1, always remains at the surface of the skin, and any development of size takes place at the bottom, so does the thigh bone 6 x figure 1, remain at the surface, and the flesh develop itself on the inner side of thigh. This will be of much service to us in our consideration of fixing the centre of leg, so as to obtain a reliable starting point from which to equally distribute the width desired in the legs. This undoubtedly should be so arranged as to come at F and G, and our method of finding this is 1⁄8 of the tight thigh as shown on diagram 71, F to D, plus half the cocyxial quantity as at B, and which we have already pointed out increases or diminishes in opposite directions to the relative size of thigh and seat. At the same time, it is as well we should point out that we think there is very little to choose between this method and taking one-sixth of the half seat, as in the larger number of cases it will be found they exactly agree, for if the seat is large in relation to the thigh, the cocyxial quantity would be increased, and so make up what the division of the small thigh was lacking, to make it agree with the division of the seat, so that practically either method would produce the same result, and be equally correct, hence the division of width line can either be found by 1⁄8 tight undress thigh, plus half distance the legs are apart at crutch, or 1⁄6 of the half seat. Some may prefer the seat measure for this on account of the difficulty in obtaining the cocyxial quantity, if not we should by all means advise them to use it; they will find it quite reliable.
The closing and fly seam of the trousers must occupy the position A C when on the body, and no matter how cut in relation to the other parts, they will still retain this position. Having thus looked at the principles which govern the fit of trousers, we will proceed to lay down
The Trousers System
And begin with the forepart, diagram 67. Line O 45 is the edge of the cloth, on which mark off the length of side from O to 45, and back from 45 to 12 the length of leg. Now square across from 12, and make 12 to seat, and draw a line up at right angles to find fly line, and square the top of front by this, the natural waist line 9, 1, 2, may be made 1⁄4 seat and 1 inch, up from line 12, 9. In the absence of a measure having been taken for this, and mark off 1⁄4 waist and two seams equal 1⁄2 inch, and draw sideseam, springing it out above this line, and curving it out to E, which may be fixed at rather less than 1⁄8 seat above 12. that being the position of the hip bone, see figure 1, 6 x, and is the most prominent point at the side of trousers. From 9 to 121⁄4 is half the fork, which quantity is found hy taking 1⁄4 tight thigh, and adding on the difference between the two thighs, which may be fixed at from 1 to 11⁄2 inches, or found by measures taken at that part; thus: 38 seat, 22 and 231⁄2 thigh, 1⁄4 thigh, 51⁄2, plus the difference 11⁄4 equal 7, the hall of which would be 31⁄2. From 9 measure out to 13⁄4 rather more than half the distance 9, 121⁄4, and draw fork by a graceful descended curve, always avoiding making it too hollow, and starting 1⁄8 seat up from point 9. The division of width line at 6 is fixed at 1⁄2 thigh and half the cocyxial quantity (1⁄2 an inch for proportion). or by one- sixth of the half seat. It is in the angle at which this is drawn, which produces the open or close style of cut. For ordinary figures who require their trousers to fit in a natural position, this line may be drawn at right angles to 12, 121⁄4, bringing it more to the side at bottom for easy or open cut trousers, or more to the leg for the close cut, always retaining point 6 in the same position. Having fixed the position of line 6, we divide the width it is desired to have the lugs equally on each side at the knee, plus a seam equal 1⁄4 inch (the position of the knee may generally be fixed at 2 inches above the half of the leg measure). The width at bottom may then be dealt with in the same manner, with the exception that the width at inside of leg is made 1⁄4 small, so as to bring the legseam rather more forward; the bottoms should be slightly hollowed at 6. making the hollowest part 1 inch nearer the sideseam than 6. One of the new make of trousers sticks in of great advantage to draught the seams of trousers, by keeping them to a graceful curve, at the same time making the operation simple and more expeditious.
The Underside
Having out out the topsides, we place them in such a position on the cloth as will allow the centre of legs to run with a Stripe, if possible. Mark round the fork and make up the size at bottom by adding on at leg seam what was omitted from the topside and round the bottom as shown. Now come up from 9, 3 inches, for boys, this may he made 1⁄12 seat. Place the square on a line drawn from 12 to this point, and draw the seat seam at right angles to this, and make it form one continuous run with the fork. Now measure across from S to E in the manner shown by tape on diagram 68, and whatever that measures, place it on A of undersides, and measure forward to T the seat measure and 2 inches, (1 inch for seams, the other inch for allowance for the expansion of the body when sitting and stooping). It will be noticed that A is above point S, and taken across the seat in a slanting direction. The reason for this is, that as the seat angle or the 3 inches inserted from 9 upwards drops down in surplus length when on the figure, as the seat seam must come up the centre. A then comes opposite S, hence the necessity for bringing A the amount of seat angle above S, thus the com- bined size of seat measures 2 inches more than the half-seat. Now make the knee at sideseam a pivot to sweep from the top of topsides to find the correct length of sideseam of underside. Having done this, measure across the size of waist of topsides and apply the tape as shown, and making the combined size of top and undersides the half waist and seams, or if a fish is taken out, which we always advise when possible, allow another inch for the fish and two seams. thus making in all 21⁄2 inches over the hull waist; now place the square on the seat seam, and draw a line from this point up to 21⁄4, so that the undersides are still the amount of seat angle longer than the topsides, at the closing seam, so that allowing the seat angle to drop, as it undoubtedly will, when on, the top of underside will come on the same level as the top of the fronts, If it is desired to wear braces, it will be necessary to add on 11⁄2 inches at 2 from the closing seam, if allowance has been made for a fish being taken out, proceed to mark it, but keep it well away from the sideseam, and landing the fulness at that part where judgment shows it in most required, a trifle further back than illustrated in these diagrams will be better than further forward. The sidesam may now be drawn from the points obtained, and if the thighs are desired to be particularly close-fitting, it may be hollowed in there a trifle The only remaining operation is
The taking' out of the Dress.
Dia. 67.
Make from 8 to 9 the difference between the two thigh measures; 111⁄4,121⁄4 is also fixed in the same way. Sweep from knee to avoid making the un-dress side any shorter, and take out the dress from 1⁄4 the seat up. In the Federation Prize Essay, we pointed out this took away the allowance made for the cocyxial quantity but at the some time pointed out the dress occupied this position, so that it is quite unnecessary for us to say any more on this topic, as doubtless most of my renders will have procured that work, if not, they will find in it much food for thought. We have often been asked to arrange this system to work with a division of the seat, as many have no opportunity in take their own measures, and consequently have to take the proportionate thigh, and this practically reduces it to a seat measure method, we give the necessary information with pleasure. Make 12 to 61⁄3 seat, 12 to 91⁄2, and 12 to 121⁄4 a trifle over 2⁄2 seat, say 1⁄4 inch over, and take out the dress as previously described, of one-twelfth of the half seat. There is another point which has formed the subject of correspondence, and tint is the apparent waste of material down the sideseam, and if the side at bottom could not be brought close to 45. Of course, it can, but in doing so yon are slightly twisting the pattern on the legs, and the query is, whether the 11⁄2 inches that comes off the side is of more value than the pattern running with the leg. We do not think it is, hence our reason for fixing a method which will produce the highest result, still, we know there are occasions when every inch of cloth is of value. Then point 6 may he made 1⁄4 the size of bottom desired, plus seams, and 12, 61⁄3seat, all the other lines being squared from it. The method in fully illustrated in the new work on Livery Garments. However, it is a plan which detracts from the style and effect of a good fitting garment, and should only be resorted to under exceptional circumstances. The only other point we will notice in the trouser system is the position of the buttons; we are of opinion the front button should stand nearly 1⁄4 waist. i.e., 1⁄8 total waist from the fly seam, and the next one 31⁄2 or 33⁄4 from it, whilst the back one should not be more than 2 inches from closing seam at back. There are many other phases of this most important subject which we should be only too pleased to discuss, but having dealt with them in the work previously mentioned, we should he only swelling the bulk of the present volume and thereby adding to its cost unnecessarily, if we repented them, so must refer our renders to that hook for a further elucidation of the principles we have set down. We will only further onto the peculiarities of those styles which are worn by boys and youths, and we suppose there is no style of nether garment which has grown more rapidly in popularity, than
Knickerbockers & Kinckerbocker Breeches.
Dias. 69 and 70. Fig. 9.
There is no variation in the body parts of these, unless they are made very loose fitting at the thighs when the rest follows suit. The special features in these are to allow sufficient length to form the bag over arrangement at knee. 3 inches is a minimum of surplus length beyond the actual measure to the point at which it is desired they shall terminate on the leg; 4 inches is preferable for this. They should be be made loose, and in the absence of any better guide, 2 inches over the half seat may be taken as the present fashion width, some have them wider than this, but this is a medium style which may be safely followed. Knickers are some- times finished merely with a piece of elastic put in the hen at bottom, and at others are put into a band, in which case the larger amount of fulness should be placed in front. Some firms reduce the size of knees, by fishes, which is specially suitable when the material in very thick, but in thin substance the effect is much better when it is fulled into a garter or elastic. Kinckerbocker Breeches are produced exactly the same, but have a hand sewn in at the bottom 31⁄2 or 4 inches wide, and finished with three holes and buttons, the top button coming in the small just below the knee, in order to make them fit clean and give the desired ease for the calf of leg. Diagram 70 is very suitable, it is produced by taking a strip of paper, cutting it at 1⁄4 up to 10, and letting it overlap about 3⁄8, and thus producing the hollow and tightness at bottom, and the round at top. The reverse operation at 10, viz., cut from 10 to 1⁄2, and open half an inch, which produces the opposite result, viz.. round edge at bottom and hollow at top. This band is frequently mule of drab Devon and mode up very firm, being frequently lined with canvas, the object being to combine the support of breeches with the comfort of knicker-bockers. We do not think it is necessary for us to repeat how to find the various points, as that has already been fully dealt with, suffice it to say, they are found in precisely the same manner as described for trousers, diagrams 67 and 68, and although the dress is not shown in this and succeeding diagrams. yet it maybe token from them all, following the directions given under that head.
Shorts.
Dia. 72. Fig. 19.
There are extensively used by boys when at school, and may be best explained as short trousers. We have arranged them without any fish out of the undersides; for two reasons; the first to show how this was arranged, the second to coll attention to the fact that Eton trousers should always be cut so, as it is always advisable to avoid having anything which would give the impression of piecing. This is arranged by hollowing the waist at back another 3⁄4 inch inside seat seem, making up the size of waist at side and allowing 1 inch for seams only. Besides the garments usually worn by boys for ordinary wear, than are those which are worn for racing and athletic performances; these are generally cut shorter in the legs, and the waist large enough to pull up over the hip and fasten with a drawing string round the waist, and consequently the button front is unnecessary. To cut these the sideseam may be drawn straight up from the bottom and hips. as a little surplus width at the waist in no detriment. We now come to
Cycling Breeches.
Diagram 73. Figure 6.
The special feature to be studied in these garments is to allow sufficient angle and room in the seat to allow of the free action of the legs. The method we have adopted with the most satisfactory result: is as follows: After fixing all the points by the some method as for trousers, recede the fronts 1⁄2 inch, and out the top sides from 1 to 11⁄4 inches longer in the leg to allow for plenty of fulness being put over the knee, and in dealing with the under-sides, increase the neat angle 1 inch, and allow 1 inch of length from the fork line up- wards, to allow of their being held on that much over the seat. They should be cut long enough to prevent their working up over the knee; and the bottom should be finished with a garter and buckle, which should be kept tight across the topside and held on slightly at back. Three or four buttons should be placed at the side, the top one being placed at the small, an the tack just below knee. As will be noticed, the buttons are kept well at the side, a feature we have found to be in accordance with the wishes of the majority of cyclists. Two inches will be ample to allow over the seat measure, unless they are required very easy, when another half-inch is added; the shaded parts on the seat show the size seat piece generally put on outside, whilst the inside is lined with either flannel or chamois leather. The pockets for this style are generally put in cross, and we have occasionally omitted them in front and put in short seat pockets. These are details, however, which are heat obtained from each individual customer, our experience going to prove this class of customers are rare fidgets, but know what they want.
Riding Brooches.
Dia. 74.
Many young gentlemen require garments of this class, especially those who may be regarded as the upper ten. As at present worn they are very baggy at the thighs and close-fitting at the knee, whilst the buttons are brought decidedly forward. The working of the system for these is as follows; find all the points as for trousers, and then instead of squaring up at right angles on line 12 from 9, drop the square down to 131⁄2 and get the fly line at right angles to 131⁄2,9; get the run of top by squaring from the original fly line, and in dividing the width of legs at knee make the topside 1⁄2 to 1 inch narrower at sideseam, this is done with the view of bringing the buttons forward. Allow 1 inch of extra length for fulling on beyond the actual measure and use care not to get the knees too large. As a general rule the knee can be fixed at 2 inches above the half leg, the small being two inches below the knee, and the calf about 3 inches below the small. Of course this is only the average, but as such it may be of use. In dealing with the underside, the seat angle is drawn by using point 131⁄2 in place of 12, see dot and dash line, and is the same in effect as if a 2 inch wedge were taken out from side at 12 to nothing at fork, 121⁄4. The seat is made up to measure and 31⁄2 inches for the present baggy style, and any deficiency at the sides of top at knee made up at undersides as shown. 1 inch should be allowed for fulling on over the seat; the top of undersides finished as for trousers, a little extra length at heel: being no detriment for these The back is placed 1 inch below the knee, and the first button put at the small. The strappings at inside of leg are not always put on, although done so very frequently, and are either of leather or the same material as the breeches, and generally stitched in the manner illustrated to keep them in position.
To these are frequently added Continuations.
Dia. 76.
These are generally made from a thinner cloth, the seam is placed down the back; the method of draughting is very simple. Draw line O, 10; O to 71⁄2 is half size of top, plus a seam; and 10, 53⁄4 half the size of bottom. plus a seam. From O to 21⁄4 is 1⁄2 inch less than 6, 23⁄4 of the breeches, that being the actual centre of front, as most peoples feet turn out to that extent. From 10 to 21⁄4 is the some amount which finds the one side, the other part being produced precisely the same as the back part: and the front, is button stand, say 1 inch less than 21⁄2 is from 10 and 0. Those are generally made up very thin, tho buttons which should be very flat, put rather wide apart.
Leggings.
Diagram 75
These are so generally used with breeches that we should be very remiss if we did not give A system for producing them. As at present worn they are very round at bottom, rather large, and the buttons arranged so as to come nearly over the centre of foot, 7 holes pieced at equal distances, and, as will be seen, some distance from the bottom. A gentleman in ordering a pair of these from me. laid. "I want these to have the same effect as a Newmarket boot, i.e. a top boot with Devon tops." This so nearly expresses the ideal of leg- ginggs as worn at present, that no better illustra- tion could be found to convoy the correct idea to our readers The system is as follows: Draw line O 14, hollow it 3⁄8 at ankle, and if the gentleman has fairly proportioned calves take out 3⁄4 at top, and measure forward to 71⁄2 the half size of top, plus seams, and the same at bottom, and draw a line down front; and, if any variation has to be made in the size of calf, make it at the back. Draw the top of legging at right angles to line 71⁄2,71⁄2, and allow on the buttonholes in accordance with the position they are desired to take, remembering the front line of legging should come about half on inch to the side of the division of width line of breeches, for the reason previously given. If this is made more than sufficient for a button stand. reduce the smaller side as much as is beyond the front line, but leaving sufficient for a button stand. Well round the bottoms away as shown in 1 and 2 from 71⁄2. and this will produce a legging as made in one of the most celebrated houses for this speciality in London. They are generally faced with the same material round the bottom and up the buttonhole side, the button stand being stayed with linen, jean, or canvas. A loop is left at top to fasten them to the breeches and keep the legging; in place. as well as a loop being left behind (if the material is too thick or otherwise unsuitable for a buttonhole) to fasten to the calf button.
The white buckskin ties usally put on breeches at knee are intended to further help in keeping the leggings in place as well as relieving the strain, or allow it to be adjusted tighter or looser as desired, and should show just above the top of the leggings, or top boots if the latter are worn.
Pyjama. Suit for Sleeping.
Plate 15. Dias. 77 &. 78. Fig. 39.
Each season brings these garments into increased popularity, so that now no hosier's stock is con- siderd complete without them. They are a good deal worn by the better class of youth at public schools. and consequently we give them a place in this work. It in not necessary for us to consider wherein the advantage lie over the old style of night-shirt. Suffice it for us there is a demend for them, and if we wish to keep pace with the times we must be ready with the supply, or at any rate be competent to execute orders for such. They are made from Oxford shifting, flannel, silk, and such-like materials, and are generally coloured, stripes and checks being more popular than self- shades. As will readily be seen by this diagram trousers are cut in precisely the same manner as just described, with the exception that they are cut with a straight sideseam, so that if desired, the seam maybe omitted, which, we may say, is the plan more generally adopted; a straight sideseam is, therefore indispensable so that after fixing the size at bottom and the size at seat draw a straight line through these two point, the excess of width at the waist so produced being drawn in with a cord and tassel through a hem at the top. Having out the top and underside pattern in this manner. it will be easy to lay it on the materiel with the sideseam joining as if it were one. The seams are generally sewn and felled over in the some way as usually done for a shirt, and the front is left open about nine or ten inches from the top, say to just below S, diagram 77. It the knees are required smaller, the only plan will be to reduce them at legseam, unless there ls a sideseam, when the usual method may be followed.
The Jacket.
Dia. 78. Fig. 39.
The various points for this ore formed in the some manner laid down for the Lounge. but as they are usually out with a whole back, nothing is taken out at the hollow of waist; the sideseam is also drawn straight, and the forepart made to overlap the buck 1⁄2 to 11⁄2 inches, according to the amount of ease desired. They are usually made to button down the front, and a breast pocket is often added. The collar is of the stand type, made to the size of neck. The sleeves are made quite plain, and may be cut in the same way as shown in diagram 9; the only variation that may be made is to increase the size of elbow slightly. The style of trimming illustrated by our diagram is also a very popular one, and shows cords placed double across the breast, and finished at the end with a crow's foot, left long enough on the one side to loop over button on the other. The seams are finished in the some manner as described for the trousers. These garments undoubtedly originated in those tropical climates where it is a necessity to cover every part of the body before retiring to rest, owing to the large number of insects which abound, and whose bite or sting is very irritating. In India, we are informed, the mosquito is a very troublesome pest in this way, and we have had customers who, having spent several year: of their life in those parts, declare they would on no account retire to rest without their Pyjamas. In those countries they are generally made with feet, diagrams for producing which will be found in the Federation Prize Essay. The cheaper way of procuring Pyjama is, of course, to get them ready- made. Most. if not all, of the respectable whole- sale hosiers supply them at prices ranging from about 6s. 6d. the suit upwards. However, there are many occasions when it is necessary to make to order, and thus our reason for giving details of cutting, &c.
Jockey Suit.
Fig.40.
The details of this will be easily gathered from figure, the jacket in cut as a small pyjama, and the breaches as coachmen's.
Spats, or Short Gaiters.
Dia. 79.
These articles are much patronised by young gentlemen. and although some consider they have a rather foppish appearance, yet they are very comfortable, keeping the feet very warm. If the quantities marked in the diagram are used by the inch tape a normal size will be produced, and if desired larger or smaller use of graduated tape to reduce or enlarge them. They are generally made from drab Devon, the edges double stitched, and the reams stitched on either side, five or six buttons at the side, or they may be brought forward to follow the shape of front. It will readily be under- stood they consist of three pieces, one the full size of diagram. another as outlined by 3, 61⁄2, 61⁄2,9,3, and another by 3, 0, 3⁄8, 7,1⁄2, 3, with a button stand of from 3⁄4 of an inch added. The simplest way of varying the size is to add to or take away from the back 1⁄2 an inch, as that will make a great deal of difference, quite as much as will be needed in ordinary practice.