The New Dressmaker/Chapter 13
CHAPTER 13
HOUSE DRESSES. NEGLIGEES. KIMONOS. BATHROBES. APRONS. BATHING-SUITS AND ROMPERS
Patterns—Materials—Culling—Putting the Garment Together—Seams—Finish
THE PATTERN. Buy these patterns by the measure given on the envelope. This is the only measure necessary to consider in buying these patterns. When a design is cut in fewer sizes than usual it is because the garment is of a type which is more or less easy in fit, that is, it should not tit as closely as a dress. Never buy a pattern smaller than your measure.
In buying romper patterns buy them by the bust measure if the child is large or small for its age. Chapter 2 gives instructions for measuring ladies, misses, girls and children.
Many figures vary in the length of the waist, skirt and arm. Before cutting your material measure the figure at these places (Chapter 3, pages 19–23) and compare your measures with those of the pattern (Chapter 3, pages 19–23.) If the pattern is long or short for you, alter it as explained in Chapter 3. The proper place to alter each pattern is given in the Deltor on the pattern envelope.
MATERIALS. Read Chapter 5, page 32 on shrinking materials before cutting your material.
CUTTING. If you are not thoroughly familiar with Butterick patterns read Chapter 2. Lay your pattern on the material following the layout given in the Deltor for your size, width of material and the view of the pattern that you are going to use. If no Deltor is given with the pattern follow the cutting instructions on the pattern envelope.
After cutting out the garment mark all the working perforations with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16. page 83).) The best way to mark the notches is to take two or three stitches in basting cotton for each notch, or the notches may be clipped, in which case do not make them any deeper than is necessary to see them distinctly.
PUTTING THE GARMENT TOGETHER. The Deltor or Illustrated Instructions will show you with pictures exactly how to put the garment together.
Try the garment on and if any slight alteration is necessary, make it at the place provided for alterations in the pattern. Baste in the alteration, try the garment on again and stitch the seams.
The materials suitable for each class of garment in this chapter, and the correct finish for each garment are given below:
HOUSE DRESSES
MATERIALS. The materials most used for house dresses are gingham, chambray, cotton poplin, madras, seersucker, linen-finished cotton materials and striped cottons.
THE FINISH FOR HOUSE DRESSES must be suitable for hard wear and frequent laundering. The seams may be finished with flat-stitched seams (Chapter 17, page 87) or with French seams (page 86).
Armholes should be finished with flat stitched seams (page 87) or overcast (page 82). The finish of the edges and the trimming of house dresses change from lime to time as new ideas are introduced. The Deltor gives the newest finish for this type of garment.
NEGLIGEES, KIMONOS. ETC.
MATERALS. Crêpe de Chine, Georgette crêpe, lace, wash silk, wash satin, silk mull, silk and cotton crêpe de Chine. cotton voile, dotted swiss, wool batiste, wool albatross and challis, are the materials most used for negligees or Kimonos. Corduroy is used for warm wrappers.
The choice of the materials depends on the dressiness of the negligee, etc.. the use it is to be put to or the need of the woman who is to wear it. Tea gowns in dainty materials and attractive colors are used by many women for tea, luncheon, and dinner at home with their intimate friends.
SEAMS. For all materials except corduroy French seams are used (Chapter 17. page 86). For corduroy use flat-stitched seams (Chapter 17. page 87) unless the Wrapper, etc., is lined. In that case use plain seams and press them open.
The nicest corduroy negligees are lined with a thin silk. China silk makes the best lining.
In a more elegant negligee of crêpe de Chine, Georgette crêpe or silk mull, the seams may he machine hemstitched. (Chapter 25, page 118.)
THE EDGE FINISH AND TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor. The styles, trimmings and finish change constantly and the newest ideas suitable for each design are given in the Deltor.
BATHROBES
MATERIALS. The materials must used for bathrobes are blanket robing, blankets, eidor-down, flannel, flannelet and corduroy for warm bathrobes. When warmth is not essential terry cloth makes a very satisfactory bathrobe.
THE SEAMS. In heavy materials such as blanket cloth, blankets and eider-down, if the fabric does not fray, seam edges may be turned to one side and stitched again ¼ or ⅜ of an inch from the seam stitching. The edges are then cut off close to this stitching. If the material does fray trim the seam edges down to ⅜ of an inch width and bind the edges separately with lining material. Turn both edges to one side and stitch them through the garment along the inner edge of the binding.
In flannelet French seams (page 86) may be used.
Flat-stitched seams (page 87) nay be used in any of the materials mentioned.
The lower edge and armholes are finished like the other seams except where French seams are used. In that case use a regular hem at the lower edge of the bathrobe.
In joining the collar to the neck if the material is bulky stitch the under section of the collar to the neck with the seam toward the wrong side of the robe. Clip the seam to prevent its drawing the neck and turn it up. Cut off the seam allowance on the neck edge at the outside section of the collar and find it. Baste and stitch it to the neck of the bathrode over the first sewing, stitching along the inner edge of the binding.
THE EDGE FINISH AND TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor.
APRONS
MATERIALS. Gingham, chambray, percale, madras, seersucker, linen-finished cottons, flowered sateen and cretonnes are the material most used for aprons.
THE FINISH of aprons like the finish of house dresses must be made to stand hard wear and frequent laundering. In bungalow aprons use flat-stitched seams (page 87). French seams (page 86) may also be used for bungalow aprons and other aprons.
THE EDGE FINISH OR TRIMMING will be found in the Deltor. Now that modern conveniences have made it possible for so many women to do their own housework there is more interest in aprons and new ideas in trimmings are introduced each season. The Deltor gives the newest and most attractive finish for each design.
BATHING-SUITS
THE same general principles and rules followed in making waists (Chapter 7) skirts (Chapter 9) and bloomers (Chapter 14, page 69) are used in making bathing-suits.
MATERIALS. The materials most used for bathing-suits are surf satin, taffeta, surf cloth, brilliantine, or jersey cloth.
ROMPERS
THE MATERIALS most used are gingham. chambray, cotton poplin, galatea, seer-sucker, linen and linen-finished cottons.
SEAMS for rompers must be finished to stand hard wear and constant laundering. If the effect of the romper is at all soft use French swims (Chapter 17. page 87). For little straight rompers or the body of a two-piece romper where a tailored effect is desired use flat-stitched seams. (Chapter 17, page 87).
Another way of giving a tailored effect to rompers is to cut the seams to about ¼ of an inch width and press them open. Baste lawn seam binding flat to the inside of the body to completely cover the seam, stitch along the edges of the seam binding to give the effect of a tailored seam from the outside.
Armholes may be finished as flat-stitched seams, (Chapter 17, page 87) overcast (Chapter 16, page 82), or bound with lawn seam binding.