The Perth gazette, and independent journal of politics and news/Volume 4/10 January 1851

Shark's Bay.

Since our last issue the Government have received the following report from Lieut. Helpman, of his proceedings at Shark's Bay. It will be seen that the quantity of guano discovered is far greater than what we stated, but it still appears that in no instance has it been found so accessible as at Egg Island :

"H. M. C. Schooner . Champion' Tetrodon Bay. Shark's Bay, 11th Dec, 1850.

We were engaged a day or two repairing the whale boat, ballasting the ship, embarking some soldiers surveying Tetrodon Bay, &c, preparatory to exploring Freycinets Harbour, and on the 8th weighed anchor, and worked down to the point called Cape Ballefin off which we anchored at 5h 30m p.m , in 7 fathoms. On the following day (Saturday, 9th) at 6 a.m., started with the longboat and whale-boat to explore Freycinet's Harbour, accompanied by Mr Austin and a small military force. Landed on Cape Harrisson, anchoring the boats some distance out, as on extensive shoal extends round it, and also at the entrance of Useless Harbour. From the summit of this bluff we obtained a good round of angles, and saw an island near the western shore of the harbour, and about four miles distant from the cape. We pulled down to, and landed on this island at sunset. It proved to be very similar in character to Egg Island, being a calcareous sandstone rock of recent marine formation, covered with a large deposit of guano of an elliptical form, about 76 yards long, and 64 wide, and the greatest depth at the crown 11 feet; so that, assuming the moan depth at 6 feet, we have about 9,728 yards. This island, which, for present distinction, we shall call Saturday Island, is surrounded by a shoal, connecting it with the mainland on the western side, distant about half a mile. In passing from the island to the main over this shoal, we observed it covered with pearl oysters, in little clumps of five or six, attached together, and to a delicate white sea-weed, and about one foot apart. A few of these oysters were collected by the men, who found several pearls in them, one of the number being as large as a full-sized pea, flattened on one side, and of a pale yellowish tint. Having anchored the boats between the island and the main, we slept on shore for the night. On the following morning we re-opened one of two or three holes we observed just above high watermark, apparently sunk long since for water ; at the depth of 6 feet we came to water slightly brackish, and attributing the saline quality to the proximity of the sea, we sunk another well under a limestone cliff, about 100 yards more inland; here, at the depth of 9 feet we were stopped by the rock, although there was every probability of our reaching fresh water at the depth of 10 or 12 feet since the soil thrown out was wet where we left off. The prevailing rock in this vicinity is a calcareous sandstone of marine formation, which disintegrates rapidly when exposed to the atmosphere, and becomes much honeycombed when exposed to the action of the surf. Observed great flights of birds coming from the S. W. this morning. At 2 p.m. started working, as before, up the harbour, against a strong head wind, blowing from the southward, and a northerly set of current. Landed on, and examined, another guano island, distant about 3 miles from last, which, for the reasons before mentioned, we called P. M. Island, of the same character and form as those before described, and containing about 2,500 yards ; whence, after taking specimens and observations, we proceeded about 5 miles farther up, anchored the boats out and slept on shore. The weather being very heavy compelled us to keep in shoal water, as the men, provisions, and traps, were, drenched with the spray whenever we attempted to keep in deep water. At 6 a.m. the next day the weather was still as heavy and unfavorable as before; however we started, still keeping in the shoal water, and passed near, but were unable to pull to, another guano island, which we called Monday Inland, deferring its examination, when we expected the weather would be more favorable. After sunset the long-boat run down to us, and said the sea was running so high off the mouth of the bay near Lefebore Island, that they feared the boat would be swamped in the attempt to enter it, as ordered As the whole of the men were fagged, as well as their bedding wet through, we anchored immediately for the night, and slept in the boats. On the following morning (12th) pulled over to the point, on the south side of the entrance to the bay just alluded to, intending to breakfast there and dry our traps, but the long-boat not observing our signals to anchor, had proceeded two miles farther south before she brought to, and we were obliged, in consequence, to track the whale boat over the shoal up to her. Here we dried our traps, went a short distance inland, and took a good round of angles ; but unfortunately, on our returning to shove off again, we found the boats hard and fast ashore, and were compelled to remain until high-water. The [flood] in about 6 p.m., and we then got the long-boat off, but it was not until 9 p.m. we succeeded in floating the whale-boat. We remained on shore until near daylight, when we again commenced our heavy pull up the harbour (Freycinet's), examining the islands in our way, and anchoring in the evening near the northern side of the entrance to Monkey Channel, when we slept on shore. The next day (Thursday) 4th November, we pulled over to the southern side of the entrance to Monkey Channel (J. Point) and examined Monkey Harbour, visited several islands in it, and found them covered with a more dry, earthy, dusty kind of guano than any we had hitherto seen, and also supporting à little vegetation. From thence we again passed over to J. Point, and examined there groups of islands extending in a northerly direction from it, and covering about four miles; the most southerly being the five small islands marked on the chart, and the most northerly a larger island, which we called Long Island, the intermediate group being three small islets. We found guano of a superior description on he five islands and three islets; but as the rock cropped up through it near the summit, a very careful examination would be requisite to enable any one even roughly to estimate the quantity. The guano on Long Island, about four miles north of the point, is of the dry dusty nature of that before described as characteristic of those islands in the Monkey Channel, and, like those, it was covered with vegetation, but of a most singular kind, having, at first sight, the appearance of parched grass, which, on closer examination, proved a rootless covering of creeper, lying on it like a carpet ; so that we were enabled to roll it up and clear patches of 50 or 60 yards square with the utmost facility. The birds (shags) are not so numerous here as in the neighborhood of the other islands which we have visited. The surrounding shoals abound with fish and turtle. After examining these islands, worked up again to southward, landing, after a heavy pull, at the first bluff beyond J. Point, where we slept. The following day (15th) started at 6 a.m.-wind westerly Sailed down to, and examined the islands in the vicinity of Leschenault Island, most of which contained guano. They are all of them ledges of recent calcareous sandstone, of recent marine formation, much broken and water-worn, the crevices between the rocks being filled, and the surface covered with guano and patches of singular plants, which will be described in another place. Thence we proceeded to Three Bay Island, where we dug for water without success, coming to the solid rock (marine sandstone) at 4 feet, and passed through layers of marine shells. The southern end of Freycinet's Harbour being visible distinctly from here, we made a board across to examine the eastern shore, calling, at No. 2 Island, one of the group at the north end of Leschenault Island, on our way, where, as the wind was against us, we slept, awaiting a more auspicious breeze. As our stock of water was low, and we had been disappointed in our expectations of obtaining it by digging, we deemed it advisable to run back along the eastern shore as speedily as possible, especially as the wind, which had hitherto blown strong from the southward, and induced us to expect a fair wind back, had not changed, and was again blowing in our teeth from the N.E. The next morning (16th) we started at daylight, taking the [lon -boat in to .,] working against a light northerly wind until noon, when fortunately a smart breeze from the S.S.W. sprung up and sent us along in style. Cast off the long-boat, landed on Monday Inland, which contrary winds prevented our landing on before, and found a deposit in the form of a little cone on the southern end of it, of very excellent, guano. Up sail again and away to the ship, where we arrived soon after sunset-found all well on board, and that they had had a very heavy gale of wind from the S.S.W. during our absence. 17th (Sunday)-To-day employed in stowing away specimens, cleaning guns, and writing up journal. 18th, Monday-Weighed anchor and worked down to Tetrodon Bay, where we anchored at 10h 30m a.m. The Prince Charlie hove in sight soon after our arrival, and Mr Helpman went off with the whale-boat to pilot her in, if required; she anchored between us and the Tippoo Saib at 10h 30m p.m. The following day sent the whale-boat on shore to be repaired by the carpenter of the Tippoo Saib, as our own carpenter had proved himself too sorry a botch to be entrusted with future repairs, and had also been very impertinent and refused to work. Brought off Dr Parr to see some of the men who had cut their feet severely with shells while tracking the boats over the shoals, and one man, a soldier, named Smith, whose sight had been lost by sleeping exposed to the moon's rays. Mr Austin went on shore to examine Dirk Hartog's Island, with a view to ascertaining the best place to dig for water and also to become acquainted with the general characteristics of the island. 20th, Wednesday Embarking the troops, which it was deemed advisable to take on board, as we had to supply them with provisions and water on shore, and the prevalence of the S.W. gales rendered it uncertain when we might be able to return to them, so to prevent accidents and loss of time, this course was resolved upon. The next day (Thursday, 21st), Mr Austin returned to the Quoin at daylight, made the signal for a boat, as arranged, and came on board to breakfast. He walked over to the cliffs on the western shore, which he found precipitous, about 150 feet high, of recent sandstone formation, distinctly stratified, and of a pale yellow colour. The soil he describes of a sandy nature, slightly calcareous, from the detritus of the limestone rocks cropping out in many places, but decidedly poor. The entire surface of the island is covered with scrub, while only a solitary blade of wiry grass rears its head here and there. No surface fresh water was found although Mr Austin is of opinion there would be very little difficulty in obtaining it by digging on the sand patches on the rock of land marked in the chart at Tetrodon Island. Specimens of the plants and rocks were brought on board, and some of the former appear to be of new and unknown species, but that Mr Drummond will perhaps be good enough to decide. Sent off to Egg Island for the whale-boat and set our own carpenter to work to finish her. The following day (22nd) weighed anchor and worked down towards, with a view to examining, Hamelin's Harbour. This rough draft would have been continued up to the present date, with a view to a fair copy being made for transmission to His Excellency, but it is stated that the Evergreen will sail this evening, and Captain Boss has expressed an anxious wish to examine the southern end of the island with us, as he has heard unfavorable accounts of the channel round Steep Head into Shark's Bay, and we are just now, 5h 30m afternoon, about to start with him to settle this question, although we have very little doubt as to the result, as Freycinet's account of it is so clear and reasonable on the face of it. As Mr Green positively refuses to take a mail or any communication for the Government, it was deemed advisable to enclose this rough draft under cover to Mrs Helpman.

Frank Helpman

The Botany of the Northern District.

We have been favored with permission to publish the following letter, lately received by a gentleman in Perth, from Mr Drummond, descriptive of his botanical researches in the country lying between Victoria Plains and the Murchison River. The well known talent and indefatigable activity of Mr Drummond as a botanist, lend a peculiar value to any paper emanating from his pen, and we are satisfied the public will peruse with pleasure the present description of his latest discoveries made in a district hitherto so little known: I intended to have sent you a fuller account of the botanical observations made on a journey from Dundaragan to Champion Bay, and from that place to the lead-mine on the Murchison, but I have not as yet got a sheltered spot to write in, I shall therefore at present mostly confine my observations to the Chamelauciæ and Proteacecæ. Of Hederoma I found three new species, but only one of them with a large showy involucre; this plant grows quite upright with small decusate leaves, the flowering branches bearing each several clusters of flowers lie flat on the ground spread all round the plant, each involucre is about the size of the flower of a common crocus. A magnificent species of the genus Chamelauciæ, growing in favourable situations to the size of a small tree, is abundant from the Hill river to the Irwin. Of Verticordia I met with, nine or ten new species, several of them more beautiful than any before described; the large scarlet verticordia which first appeared on our route a little to the north of the Hill river, and continued in favorable situations as far as the Greenough, is in my opinion the most beautiful of Australian plants; in situations where the plant has accidentally escaped the bush fires for several years, I have seen it five or six feet high and strong in proportion, but it generally appears to most advantage the first or second year after the old plants are burnt down, they are then one mass of scarlet blossoms from the ground upward ; even the savage inhabitants of the country, cannibals as they are, admire this plant ; on one of the days we were travelling from the Irwin to the Greenough, the natives had intelligence of our approach and twenty or thirty of the young men dressed in their best style, with grease and wilgi and their heads ornamented with the flowers of this splendid plant, came to meet us in a friendly manner. Several other very fine species of verticordia were found, two of them on the extensive sand plain between the Hutt and the Murchison. Five or six new species of Calycothrix were found, some of them equal to but none superior in beauty to those of the genus before described ; a plant with tubular heath like flowers, forms apparently a new genus of this order ; it is rather inconspicuous like a small plant of Epacridæ. To several of the Western Australian Proteaceæ, important additions have been made ; I have five new species of Petrophila, but of that number only one species was in flower. In botanical characters it is not near any species before described. The others, I only know to be new by their leaves and seed vessels. Isopogon produces two new species, one with linear leaves and fine purple flowers; another near the Asper found at the Swan by Frazer. The flowers of this species were not seen, but it has abundance of characters to distinguish it from any described. I gathered also a new trilobate Isopogon, a very rare species; Conospermum so abundant in species at the Swan and to the south and east, produces only one or two to the north, which are perhaps new, but nothing very remarkable. Persoonia produces several new species, which I cannot describe without having recourse to my specimens, and they are not at present within my reach. Grevilleæ abounds in new forms to the north, and the great white Grevilleæ which grows on the sand plain between the Hutt and Murchison, is at least one of the finest species of this extensive genus. I send you five seeds of this magnificent plant ; it grows to be a bushy shrub, five or six feet high, with several flower stalks, six or eight feet high; these terminate in branching racemes of white honey-scented flowers. Judging from their remains (for the seeds now are generally ripe), the bunches of flowers must be at least two feet in diameter. It would require much better accomodation for writing to describe all the other new species found of this genus. To the north Hakea bears a very small proportion to Grevillea, and with the exception of one intermediate in character, between H. Ceratophylla of R. Brown and H. Brownii of Meisner, which is a fine plant, with much larger seed vessels than any of the forms of Ceratophylla, they are nothing very remarkable in appearance. Lambertia produces a fine new scarlet flowered species of the seven-flowered section of the genus, it has exactly the foliage and habit of multi flora, without the flowers I would not be able to distinguish these two species. In this journey I have gathered seven new Banksias; I send you seeds of three of these-a species remarkable for the green colour of its globe shaped flower. It grows to be a tree a foot in diameter; the species is common all along the valley of the, lakes. I observed three new banksias on the great sand plain between the Hutt and the Murchison ; one of these resembles in leaves and in the habits of the plant, a fine evergreen oak ; the flowers are larger than any banksias decribed, except Grandis. Dryandra is not abundant in species to the north: I got only two which are new. I observed besides those noticed, a large shrub, with pungent leaves, and exactly round seed vessels, rather, larger than a musket-ball; the flowers of this plant I have not seen. Judging from the habit of the plant and form of the seed vessel, I suppose it forms new genus of Proteaceæ.