A Voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, etc./Chapter 4
1793.
April 11.We doubled Cape Horn on the 11th of April, the day three months on which we departed from England, after having stopped at Rio Janeiro, during the space of ten days; and proceeding from thence, four hundred leagues to the Eastward, in search of the Island of Grand. On making Diego Ramieres Isles, we stretched well into the Westward of them, with the wind at South, South West; and, at midnight, tacked to the Southward and Eastward. During the following five days, we had the wind from West, and South West, and mostly with an heavy gale, and a tremendous sea, and as bad weather as could be produced by hail, rain, frost and snow, which drove us as far to the Southward as 59°, and back to the East as 69°. We nevertheless strove well against it, and the crew being in good health and spirits, we made sail, if it became moderate, only for half an hour; and, at length, fairly beat round the land of Terra del Fuego. No sooner had we attained this object, than we had fine weather, with a Southerly wind; which promised favourably, to my present intention of examining Wager Island, on the West coast of Patagonia, which we saw on April 28.the twenty-eighth, at midnight.
Wager Isle is high and rugged, and may be seen at the distance of fourteen or fifteen leagues. It is about five or six leagues in length, and lays, by compass, nearly in a North and South direction, with many islets off both North and South ends. I place the body of it in Latitude 46° 30′, and Longitude 76° West. On the western side, where nothing grows but a small quantity of green moss, it wears a very barren appearance, and the distant hills, bearing East 25° North, I believe, were mountains on the main land, covered with snow. Capt. Cheap, who commanded the Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron, has given a full description of this island, where he was unfortunately cast away[1]. My design in making it, was to obtain some knowledge of Anna Pink Bay and Harbour, but the coast was so forbidding, and the weather of such a dark, hazy, and wintry aspect, as to discourage me from persevering in it. Besides, having doubled Cape Horn at the precise time of the year when Lord Anson went round it, and being at Wager Isle within a fortnight of the time, when Captain Cheap was shipwrecked there, I was discouraged from paying any further attention to it. The inlet, which was the object of my search, is not a mile wide; a space, which can be discerned, but on a very near approach. The Anna Pink did not see it, until she was within a mile or two of the rocks and breakers, among which it lies; and although they may shew themselves, the depth of water is so great in the bay, that when found, no whaler will attempt to make it, because he cannot trust to his anchors. I tried for sounding several times off Wager Isle, but got no bottom; neither was the colour of the water so much changed here, as the day before we made the land.
By the Anna Pinks supposed Latitude of that place, and my own observations, I have no doubt, as was conjectured, at the time, that the crew of the Wager heard the Anna Pinks guns; and that she lay under the main to the East of Wager Island[2]. If the design proposed by Captain Cheap had been adopted, of coasting in the boats, it is more than probable that it would have succeeded; and the well-known distresses of that officer and his crew would then have been avoided. The many escapes and voyages which, from shipwreck, views of gain, and other causes, have been made and performed in boats within these few years, are, I presume, pretty generally known. My long-boat, which was not more than twenty-eight feet in the keel, coasted it in the depth of winter and in a tempestuous climate, from 38° North to 50° North; and part of the same course back to rejoin me. The greatest part of the cargoes of ships voyaging to the North West Coast of America, have been collected in boats. The long-boat of the ships I commanded in my first voyage thither, coasted from 60° North, many leagues to the Southward, as well as in various bays and inlets which the ship could not enter; whereby a more particular knowledge of that country has been obtained, as will appear on the publication of Capt. Vancouver's voyage. The known spirit of enterprise and speculation, possessed by the British merchants, and which is not equalled, by those of any other nation, will again shew itself, when a peace takes place; and the inland countries in the Southern parts of America, including the East and West coasts of Patagonia, Straits of Magellan, and Terra Del Fuego, will, I doubt not, be traversed and explored, from the information of Mr. Falkner, who resided near forty years in that country, and published an account of his travels in 1774. He remarks, that the Eastern coasts abound with ostriches, whose feathers are known to be so valuable, besides otters, hares, rabbits, and other animals, yielding fur. He likewise mentions the articles of trade necessary for the Indians, and describes the Western side as abounding also with ostriches, as well as hares of an extraordinary size, and black rabbits; whose fur is superior to that of the beaver. The otters and hares I have seen, and their skins would be a valuable article of commerce in China.
He further declares, as his decided opinion, that it would prove very disadvantageous to the Spaniards, if the English were to form any settlement to the South of Brazil; there being several rivers, which communicate with the Western side of America; and he gives a particular description of the bay St. Fondo, and river Colorado.
This idea, however, had not awakened the attention of any court, till disputes arose about Nootka Sound, in which I unfortunately, had so great a share[3]. I cannot pass over in silence the very singular circumstance, that while the Spaniards were negotiating with Great-Britain, for arranging the difference between them, in an amicable manner, they actually settled every port in the Atlantic, as far South as the Straits of Magellan; and attempted it at New Year's Harbour, Staten Land. At that place I left a factory in my first voyage, in 1786; but the ship which was sent to carry them supplies being cast away, they quitted it in boats. Another body of English merchants, engaged in a similar establishment, and was there, when the Spaniards arrived, which induced the latter to abandon their design, and, by a violent gale from the Eastward on the night after their arrival, their ship was either wrecked or driven to sea between the New Year's Isles.
This was not the only political manœuvre of the Spaniards; for they intimated to Lord Saint Helens, as his Lordship informed me, that their settlements in the Californias, extended a long way to the North of Port St. Francisco. This circumstance, I represented to his Lordship to be altogether untrue, as my long-boat had coasted from Saint Francisco to Nootka, and saw no settlements. I have no doubt, nevertheless, of its being their design to settle the intermediate space, as well as the Sandwich Isles, for which they had made every preparation, at the time I was released from their naval port of Saint Blas, in the Gulf of California. Indeed, while I was on my present voyage, they settled the Port of Sir Francis Drake, where I wooded and watered, in my preceding voyage. But it is probable that Captain Vancouver, whose voyages are now preparing for publication, will give a more particular account of this settlement.
If such an enterprise has not commenced, the period, however, cannot be distant, when a commercial search after furs, seals, and whales, will lead adventurers to traverse the Coasts of Terra del Fuego and Patagonia, for them. The whales and seals are grown shy, and become scarce in other parts where they have been hitherto taken, so that new haunts must be resorted to, in order to keep up the spirit of our fisheries; and those coasts will probably employ fifty or sixty sail of merchant ships, as they abound not only with black whales and seals, but the sea elephant and the sea lion.
The Southernmost settlement of the Spaniards, known on the Western side, is Brewers, or English Harbour, in Latitude 44° 20′ South[4]. To the South of it, is a great archipelago, and many deep inlets, which perhaps, are unknown to the Spaniards.
As from the circumstances already mentioned, I had given up all search after Anna Pink Bay, I was, from the same cause, induced to relinquish my design of looking into Brewers Harbour, and did not make land again, till we were in the Latitude 38° 39′, when we saw the Isle Mocha.
In 40° South, we saw spermaceti whales, but did not take any till May 1.the first of May, when we made the Isle, the sea being then covered with them: but of six which we killed, and of four secured along side, the weather proved so bad, that we could only save the bodies of two fish, and one head.
We beat to windward off Mocha for several days, during which time we saw a great number of whales, but killed no more than two, of which we saved one. Several of my people getting hurt in flinching them[5], and others breaking out in boils from the bad state of the weather, I was obliged to pursue my voyage; but, by ordering the sick two oranges every day per person, with a large glass of lime juice and water every morning, they soon recovered, as well as those also who were hurt in whaling.
I place Mocha Island in Latitude 38° 24′, and Longitude 75° 00′. It is of a height to be seen at the distance of fifteen or sixteen leagues in clear weather, and on approaching it, its summit appears rugged. It is about three or four leagues in length, laying in a North and South direction by compass. The Northern part of the island descends gradually into a low, sandy point, or long tongue of land, on which is a rock or cross, that has the semblance of a sail. The South point, at the distance we were, appeared to end in a more abrupt manner, and there extends from it, for a considerable distance, a range of small rugged rocks, some of them on a level with the water; while others rose boldly from it, so that it was a matter of some doubt with me, whether they composed an actual part of the island. Breakers also run off from it a great way to the Westward, at least three leagues. There is a bare, white spot on one part of the island, having the appearance, at an offing, of eight or nine miles, as if not belonging to it. From the great number of seals, which I saw off this Island, I should suppose that it must abound with them. The main land of Chili, within the isle, is of a moderate height, and as it appeared to me, about six or seven leagues distant.
The only account I have been able to obtain of this Island is from Mr. Wafer's voyage, who was there, with Capt. Davis, in the year 1686, at which time, they lay there during the space of eight days. He relates, that they wooded, watered and stored themselves with fresh provisions, particularly the guanaco[6]. In short, he gives a very interesting account of the necessaries which they procured. He says the land is low and flat; but he must certainly speak only of the East side, or North and South points: If whales are as plentiful in the offing in the fine season, as at the time when I was there, it is an excellent whaling ground; and the Isle itself very convenient for the purposes of refreshment. For although Mr. Wafer, on his return, found that the Spaniards had destroyed all the produce of the Island, of which they could possess themselves, to prevent its affording relief to the Buccaneers; so long a period has since elapsed, that it is no wild conjecture to suppose, it may now have regained its former plenty.
We kept the land of Chili in sight, from the mast-head or deck, until we reached the Latitude of 26° 20′; in which parallel, the Islands of Saint Felix and Saint Ambrose, were supposed to lie, but at the distance of one hundred and fifty leagues from the main. When I first fitted out, my intention was to visit the Isle Juan Fernandes, and Masa Fuero: but, before I left England, Europe was in such an unsettled state, as to induce me to consider a rupture between Great Britain and Spain, as no improbable event, when the cruizers, of the latter nation, would certainly be stationed off these islands: besides, I had every reason to believe, that, at the Saint Felix and Saint Ambrose Isles, I should find refreshments equal to, those which Masa Fuero is known to afford. Besides, having learned, at Rio Janeiro, that Lieutenant Moss, of the royal navy, whose nautical abilities are known and approved, had been lately sealing at Masa Fuero, and taken great pains to ascertain their situation, I conceived it unnecessary, for me to go there for that purpose only.
All the way to the Latitude of Saint Felix and Saint Ambrose, and also running down the Longitude to those isles, we never saw a single spermaceti whale, except a flinched one, the day before we quitted sight of the main; but there were a great number of seals along the whole coast.
May 20.On the twentieth day of May, at day-light, we saw one of the Isles of Saint Felix and Saint Ambrose; and soon after the other. By four in the afternoon, we were within six or seven miles of the Easternmost; when, accompanied by the whaling master, I made an attempt to land, as well as to find an anchoring ground. The isle proved to be a rugged, perpendicular, barren rock, sixty or seventy fathoms in height; and, in its craggy breaks and shelvings, seals had found a resting place. There was, indeed, an appearance of verdure on its summit, which induced me to conjecture, that it is, by some means or other, supplied with moisture. But night coming on, and it beginning to sniffle and rain, with the wind far to the North, and no place to shelter the boat, or where we could land, on the North side, we returned on board. It was an equally night, with showers of rain; and, 21.on the twenty-first, at day-light, as much wind blew from West North West, as would admit of double reefed top-sails, with very heavy showers, which continued the whole of the forenoon; so that we were obliged to pass to the Southward of the Easternmost isle, which presents the same inhospitable aspect as that of the North side. At noon, the rain ceased, and the wind became variable with cloudy weather and much sea. By sun-set, we got well up with the Western isle, and being moon-light, I sent the chief mate, in one of the boats, to fish during the night, as well as to take soundings round the isle for the best anchoring place; and in the morning to make an attempt to land. At noon, on the following day, he returned with plenty of fish of the species of cod and bream, weighing from four to six pounds each; and informed me he had taken soundings round the isle, and that the only bay was on the South side; but that he could not find any bottom except close to the shore, which was at eighteen fathoms depth and rocky: That he had also sounded, on the North side, round the isle, to eight fathoms, within half a mile of the shore, and found a sandy bottom; but beyond that, could find no ground, at thirty fathoms; and, that the late gale had occasioned so great a surf as to render it impossible to land. He added, that the island appeared to be covered with seals. I had by this time surrounded the isle, with the ship, and frequently tried for soundings, but no bottom could be found, with one hundred and seventy fathoms of line, at the distance of from four to six miles from the shore.
The whaling master and second mate attempted to land in the evening, the swell having considerably abated; but they could not accomplish their design. They set out again, at four o'clock May 22.the next morning, twenty-second, with a similar design; and, having with great risk and difficulty effected a landing, they traversed the isle, which produced nothing but a plant, resembling the common nettle, of a salt taste and disagreeable odor. They could find no fresh water, and the soil was mere sand, from one to six inches deep on a solid rock, and washed into furrows, as it appeared, by heavy rains. No land-bird, quadruped, or even insect, except flies, were seen on the island; but great numbers of birds-nests, containing addled eggs: nor was there any kind of shell-fish. On the island, were the remains of seals and a quantity of decayed seal-skins, supposed to have been left there by Mr. Ellis, (who visited this place in the year 1791,) and probably, from the difficulty of taking them away.
Of the danger of getting from this island, we had a very melancholy experience; as our people were upset several times, before they got from the surf, and one of our best seamen, was unfortunately killed, having his back broken, by the jolly-boat falling, upon him.
The only landing place, is on a sandy beach on the North side of the isle; and the tide ebbed on it, while they were on shore, between six and seven feet, and the ebb and flood runs to the Northward and Eastward. At the time they landed, which was at six in the morning, it was near high water, and when they got off, at two o'clock, P. M., it was low water. Neither, of these isles is more, than five or six miles in circumference, and they are distant from each other four leagues and a half. The Easternmost isle, appearing to be inaccessible, can never be of much use, except as a place for catching fish or taking seals: But the other isle, might be made to answer, as a place of rendezvous in war or peace. It contains a space, where tents might be pitched, and the sick accommodated, if the want of wood, water, and vegetables, could by any means, be surmounted. As to the first, a hull or two, of a prize, would afford a sufficient supply; and as for the second, a still, might be provided, to distil salt water; and a small quantity of soil, would be sufficient, to raise sallad herbs.
A whaler, indeed, never wants wood or water; of the latter, she has always a very large quantity; because all her empty casks, which she carries out for oil, are filled with water, by way of ballast; and as it is to be hoped, that the fisheries will not be discontinued, she might always leave her surplus quantity here, by storing it into a tank. A few buts of earth, might also be brought, and several kinds of small herbs, be raised. Should this retreat be discovered, by the capture of any vessel, it is so situated, that a small force would be enabled to defend it against a large one. In the winter season, however, I cannot suppose, that any cruizer, as the prevailing winds are Northerly and tempestuous, will attempt to anchor on a lee-shore; but, during the summer, when the winds are changeable, moderate, and Southerly, I have no doubt but ships might remain here in perfect security.
When South of the Western isle, the whole has the appearance of a double-headed shot; but the Eastern hummock is separated from it, by a very narrow reef, which divides it, as it were, into two isles; the lowest land, commencing from the reef, and joining the hummock to the West. There is also a remarkable small rock off the North West end, which, in most points of view, shews itself like a ship under sail. These isles I place by observation corrected of Sun, Moon, Stars, and chronometer, between the Latitude of 26° 19′, and 26° 13′; and Longitude, 79° 4′, and 79° 26′ West.
- ↑ In the year 1741.
- ↑ The Anna Pink was a victualler belonging to Lord Anson's squadron, and driven into this port in distress.
- ↑ Mr. Thomas Falkner was the son of a surgeon of eminence at Manchester, and was brought up in his father's profession, for which he always manifested the most promising dispositions. To complete his professional studies, he was sent to London to attend Saint Thomas's Hospital; and, happening to lodge in Tooley-Street, on the Surrey bank of the Thames, he made an acquaintance with the master of a ship, employed in the Guinea trade, who persuaded the young surgeon to accompany him in his next voyage in his professional capacity. On his return to England, he engaged to go in the same situation on board a merchant ship to Cadiz, from whence he continued his voyage to Buenos Ayres, a Spanish settlement on the River La Plata. Here he fell sick, and was in so dangerous a state when his ship was ready to depart, as not to be in a condition to be carried on board, so she sailed without him. The Jesuits, of which there was a college at Buenos Ayres, nursed him during his illness with the greatest care and kindness assiduity; and perceiving the very great advantage which they would derive, in their millions, from possessing a brother who was so well skilled in medicine and surgery, spared no pains to win his affection and secure his confidence. In short, they so worked upon his mind, as to persuade him to enter into their college and finally to become one of their order. He now entered upon his ministry among the Indians, who inhabit the vast track of country between the River La Plata and the Straits of Magellan. His skill in the cure of diseases, and in performing surgical operations, together with his knowledge of mechanics, rendered his mission successful beyond example. In this country he remained near forty years, and was among the persons appointed by the Spanish Government, to make a survey of the coasts between the Brazils and the Terra del Fuego, Falkland's Islands, &c. When the society of Jesuits was dissolved, he was sent back to Spain, and after an absence of near forty years, arrived in his native country. Soon after his return to England, he became domestic chaplain to Robert Berkeley, Esq. of Spetchley, near Worcester, a Roman Catholic gentleman of distinguished knowledge, most respectable character, and large fortune. There he wrote the account of Patagonia, which has been quoted in this volume, and was afterwards published with a map corrected from that of D'Anville, according to his own observations. Mr. Falkner possessed a very acute mind, a general knowledge and most retentive memory. Of his medical experience and practice, I have heard physicians of eminence speak in the highest terms of commendation. His manners, as may be supposed, from the tenor of his life, were at once singular and most inoffensive: and he retained somewhat of his Indian habits to the last. He died, as I have been informed, about the year 1781.
- ↑ This Harbour is named after Mr. Henry Brewer, who commanded a squadron of Dutch ships in 1642, belonging to the Dutch West-India Company, on an expedition to the coast of Chili, who found in this port refreshments of every kind, and also a safe and good anchorage.
- ↑ This expression is used for taking off the fat from the fish.
- ↑
Extract from Mr. Wafer.
The island afforded both water and fresh provisions for our men. The land is very low and flat, and upon the sea coast sandy; but the middle ground is good mould, and produces maize, wheat and barley, with variety of fruits, &c. Here were several houses, belonging to the Spanish Indians, which were very well stored with dunghill fowl. They have here also several horses: but that which is most worthy of note, is a sort of sheep they have, which the inhabitants call Cornera de Terra. This creature is about four feet and an half high at the back, and a very stately beast. These sheep are so tame, that we frequently used to have one of them, upon whose back two of the lustiest men would ride at once round the island, to drive the rest to the fold. His ordinary pace is either an amble or a good hand-gallop; nor does he care for going any other pace, during the time his rider is upon his back. His mouth is like that of a hare; and the hair-lip above opens as well as the main-lips, when he bites the grass, which he does very near. His head is much like an antelope, but they had no horns when we were there; yet we found very large horns, much twisted, in the form of a snail-shell, which we supposed they had shed; there laid many of them scattered upon the sandy bays. His ears resemble those of an ass, his neck small, and resembling a camels. He carries his head bending, and very stately, like a swan; is full chested like a horse, and has his loins much like a well shaped greyhound. His buttocks resemble those of a full grown deer, and he has much such a tail. He is cloven-footed like a sheep, but, on the inside of each foot has a large claw, bigger than ones finger, but sharp, and resembling those of an eagle. These claws stand about two inches above the division of the hoof; and they serve him in climbing rocks, holding fast, by whatever they bear against. His flesh eats as like mutton as can be: he bears wool of twelve or fourteen inches long upon the belly; but it is shorter on the back, shaggy, and a little inclining to a curl. It is an innocent and very serviceable beast, fit for any drudgery. Of these we killed forty-three; out of the maw of one of which I took thirteen Bezoar stones, of which some were ragged, and of several forms; some long, resembling coral; some round, and some oval; but all green when taken out of the maw: yet by long keeping they turned of an ash colour.