NEEDLEWORK Method of Work. Cut the collar to the depth and size required. Turn up the edge and machine on to it a piece of braid. Then machine on to the collar a small narrow neckband. Fold the collar in half, and place it over the tracing paper, and draw an original design. An open pattern is more effective for braiding. Buy a penny skein of the narrowest cotton braid (Russian braid). Make a tiny hole through the material in the centre of the design and put the braid through it, and tack firmly on the wrong side. Then back-stitch the braid carefully on to the pattern, curving it round, or turning it sharply ovei at the points. Finish the centre of the pattern, and hide the place where the braiding finishes by working a round of satin stitches. Work the leaves with satin or crewel stitch, and the stems in outline stitch. Collar 5. This is a stand- up collar with supports at the side, and is a particularly comfortable shape to wear. It is made of linen decorated with blanket stitch, lace stitch, and bullion stitch. Method of Work. Cut a straight piece of linen 2^ inches deep and length re- quired. Curve the material slightly in the front so as to make it only t|- inches deep. At some slight distance from the edge of the collar work all round with an uneven blanket stitch, as this is more suitable for fancy work than the even one. To work an uneven blanket stitch as seen on collar. Work from left to right, and vary the stitches in depth from ^ to ^ of an inch in depth. Put the needle through the material from wrong to right side, some little distance from the edge, then put the needle in at the top and bring it out at the depth to which the edge is re- quired and just below where it was brought up. Let the thread pass under the needle to make a buttonhole stitch. For the next stitch insert the needle at the same line as the last, only withdraw it at a shorter depth, and make the third stitch sUll shorter ; thus a pretty uneven edge is obtained. After blanket stitching all round the collar cut away the rough edges. Decorate the collar with rounds or ovals of lace stitches. These are very simple, but need care so as not to stretch the material out of shape. When the lace stitches are completed the material is cut away from behind them, leaving the transparent work. To Work Lace Stitch. Start by making a small loop at the edge of Bullion Stitch the pattern, then turn the needle 88 Two Peter Pan Collars round and put the eye of it through the loop already made. Draw the cotton up into a second loop, and continue looping the cotton across the space in this way from hole to hole. To vary the pattern several loops can be made into one, as seen on part of the collar. The small sprigs on the collar are worked in bullion stitch. Bullion Stitch. Put in the needle (using a fairly short one) and withdraw it at any length desired ; twist the cotton round it six or seven times, and draw the thread through, holding the twist on the needle with the thumb of the left hand, keeping it well in place. Then tip back the twist made into place on the material. Tf the grub, or bullion stitch is needed deeper, twist the cotton several more times over the needle. Note. To cut away the material from the back of the lace stitches, it is wise to insert small pieces of cardboard in the shape of the pattern, so as to cut round the edge of the material without the fear of cutting any of the lace work at the same time, and thus spoiling it. The long and short variety of satin stitch is very useful in em- broidering. To do this Robe Mus in Collar edged with tatti ng K^«7 Z ^ m m 1 ■k ■ail Stand' up Collar V vith supports Satin Stitch keep the outline even, but let the ends of the stitches be of uneven length (see sketch). Cable chain stitch is also a most useful stitch in all kinds of fancy work ; it varies from the ordinary chain stitch, which is very easy to do. To work cable- chain stitch commence as for chain stitch and hold the working thread down with the thumb of the left hand putting the needle under the thread and give it a half twist on to the needle, and put the needle through to the back of the material and bring it out again with an ordinary chain stitch ; then again put the needle under the thread and give the thread a little twist half round the needle as before and make another chain stitch, and so on for length required (see sketch). Cable Chain Stitch ITiis simple and highly ornamental stitch is useful for very many purposes, but is always most effective when worked in thick silk or cotton. It is excellent in a fine cord on cloth coat collars.
