ORES8 228 Fig. 8 Sew snips firmly round the head band. s^icie. cmAc The difficult task of stretching and fitting the cloth over the brim is now commenced. The material must always be pulled on the straight grain, so that the point of the material lies in front (sketch i), the straight grain will then be at the points {a) illustrated in the accompanying sketch. When the material has been sufficiently stretched on the straight, it can then be stretched on the cross, i.e., at the front, back, and sides. Fig. 10 After stretching, which may make the brim appear uneven, turn over the half-inch of cloth which is beyond the brim on to the under-brim, and pin firmly, then sew (as illustrated), being very care- ful to pick up one thread only of the spartra, to prevent the stitches coming through on the top of the brim. The top brim being now complete, we take the point of the remaining material and place it on to the front of the under-brim exactly in the same way as in Direction figure I, and carry out Direction figures 2, 3, 4, and 5, the only difference being that the right side of the material must, of course, be on the outside, and the pins must not be removed after carrying out Direction figure 5. Fig. 12 Pull and pin the cloth, first on the straight and then on the cross, in the same way as directed for the top of the brim ; and it may at this point be found that an alteration in the head pins will improve the fit. Now sew the snips firmly inside the head, cut the cloth half an inch larger than the brim, and turn it in to meet the edge of the cloth at the top of the brim, pinning it ready for slip- stitching. Fig. 13 Slipstitching is one of the most important items in practical millinery, and it is usually found advisable to practise on bandeaux before attempting the edge of a cloth or velvet hat. The needle must be taken through the piece of material turned over from the top brim, being very careful not to take the stitch through the spartra. Pull the cotton through the back of the under-brim edge, then back again to the top, and pull the edge together. There are several ways of finishing the edge, such as binding it with a plain or gauged piece of velvet or cloth ; or the rouleau, which is made by working a piece of wire in at each edge, thus forming a neat piping on each side.
