229 For the crown of the hat, which should now be taken, cut a circle of the cloth large enough to fit over the top, with an inch beyond for turning, and f^'8- 1^ then pin firmly on. Turn over the surplus, and sew the edge on to the side band. Then remove the pins. To form the side band, cut a strip of material on the cross 26 inches long and 5 inches wide. Join the ends so that the circumference is 24 inches, the necessary size to fit the spartra shape. Fig. 16 Place over the spartra. This allows three-quarters of an inch for turnings top and bottom of the band of a 3 J- inch-high crown. Then slipstitch the edges together at the top Fig. 17 Fig. 19 DRE88 Take every p r e c aution when slip- stitching the crown on to the brim to take up only the material of the upper brim, and not the spartra (as illustrated). The pattern shape, ^e^cK which is now almost flat, can be quite successfully covered without putting any pleats in the brim to make it set well ; ^'*- ^° but for a mushroom shape it is necessary to put pleats in the under-brim to ensure accurate fitting. These are cut down the centre, and one side is made to lap over the other until the fullness has all disappeared (as illustrated). Slipstitch the cut pleats down the join. Sew as neatly as possible. The top of the brim hardly ever requires a pleat, as it can be stretched over the shape until the fullness is all pulled away. The last sketch (No. Pin the crown firmly in the centre of the ^'^ ^2 22) shows the model hat, so that the join in the side band is hat when finished and ready for trimming, where it will be hidden by the trimming, which process will be the subject of the next and slipstitch again on to the brim. article. To he continued. FRACTICAI^ LESSOHS IN DRESSMAKIHG Continued from pa^e 71, Pari I By M. PRINCE BROWNE Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, French Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework, and Millinery of the Teachers in Training at the University College of South JVales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff ; the London Higher Technical Examination Centres, etc.; First Class Diploma for Tailoring; Diploma of Honour for Dressmaking ; Diploma of Merit of the Highest Order for Teaching ; Silver Medallist, Londoji Exhibition, jgoo ; Silver Medal, Franco- British Exhibition, igo8 ; Author of " Up-to-Date Dresscutting and Drafting," also "The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring." SECOND LESSON Fastenings — Bones — Prussian Bindinj? — Lute Ribbon — Skirt Binding — Buckram — Stitches Used in Dressmaking — Tacking— Basting— Running — Gathering— Hemming — Stitching — Back'Stitching Datent hooks and small metal rings are strip of one and a half yards in length, and sometimes used for fastening placket holes, etc. The rings must be buttonholed round with twist to match the colour of the dress. The small rings are sold in boxes of a gross, in black or white, at 4^d. per box. The patent hooks are sold on cards, and they can be purchased by the dozen. Patent press fasteners are also used for placket-holes, blouses, etc., and are sold in black Ci white on cards of a dozen or more. Bones " Whalebone " or " Baleinette," can be used for boning bodices when desired. Real whalebone is, of course, the best, but this is expensive. It costs from is. i^d. per about two and a half strips are required for a fully-boned bodice. " Baleinette " is the best inexpensive substitute — it is sold by the yard at about 2|d., or in rolls of a dozen yards at about 2s. 6d. This can very well be used for draped. bodices, as the extra thickness of the Balein- ette is not observable under the draping, but for plain bodices real bone is necessary. Horn, steel, and other such substitutes are not advisable, as they cannot be stitched through in boning the bodice, and this stitch- ing through the bone is absolutely necessary, to ensure the proper shaping of the bodice. Bones already cut in leneths and sold in packets, or bones ready * cased," are un- desirable for really good work.
