DRESS 378 To make the stitch, insert the needle first above and then from right to left, V XT =h Diagram 10 below the raw edge ; the lower side of each stitch should come just under the raw edge of the fold, the upper side of the stitch on the fold, but not through to the right side of the dress. When the stitch is finished it should appear as in diagram lo. Button-holing and Button=holes In dressmaking, button-holes are worked from left to right. Pass the needle through the slit, and take up the amount of material required for the depth of the stitch. While the needle is in this position, carry the twist from the eye over to the left of the needle and under the point to the right, draw the needle out rather sharply towards the slit, so as to form a little knot or purl edge, round the opening. When the garment is ready for the button-holes, take a piece of card"^and measure the diameter of the button to be used, and notch the card to . that width. Mark the position and length for the button-holes before cutting them (a long stitch in cotton of a contrasting colour can be placed where each button-hole is to be cut). Punch a small hole on the outside ends of each mark, then, with a small, sharp pair of scissors, cut a slit for the button-hole to the length marked by the notch on the card. N.B. — It is very important that the slit should be cut perfectly straight, as a good Q button-hole can never be made if the edges are crooked and uneven. The ^Q punched hole and the slit should now appear^as in diagram ii, but, as the ^ button-hole should be pear- N.* shaped, a small piece must Diagrams 11, 12. and 13 bg cut off OU ■ each side, from the slit into the round hole, to give it the shape shown in diagram 12. Great care must be taken to cut the two sides exactly alike, or the button-hole will have a crooked appearance. If the material in which the button-holes are to be worked is likely to fray, it is better to oversew round each one first with fine silk of the same colour. It is unnecessary to oversew the cut edge of any firmly woven material, muslin, or print. The button-holes must be worked with twist to match the material, and the work commenced from the side of the straight sht (not the pear-shaped end). In working the button-hole care must be taken to catch the under layer, or layers, of material in with the button-hole stitches, or they will slip away and remain unworked. When the button-hole has been worked all round it must be " barred " ; this is done by working two or three straight stitches across the end of the button-hole and two or three threads beyond the beginning of the slit, drawing the two edges of the work close together, but not allowing them to overlap. Button-hole over these straight stitches, bring the purl of each stitch towards the slit, and take the first and last stitch through the material, so as to give firmness to the bar, and keep it in position. The button-holes are sometimes worked (before the slit is cut) along each side of the mark for the button-hole with a row of running stitches, fastened off firmly ; this prevents the button-hole stretching when it is worked. If a punch is not available, the hole can be cut with a small, sharp pair of scissors by snipping the ends of the slit in a slanting direction, as shown in diagram 13, and then cutting out a small curved piece, as denoted by the dotted line in the same diagram, but as it is impossible to cut these ends with the scissors exactly to match in a row of button-holes, it is well worth the small outlay for the punch. N.B. — The " punch " is described and illustrated in the First Lesson on Tailoring. FANCY STITCHES "Fanning" Fanning is an ornamental stitch used for fixing the top of bones. After a bodice has been boned, a " fan " of stitches is worked near the top of each one ; it consists of a long centre stitch, on each side of which two or three stitches of graduated length are worked, each of the five (or seven, as the case may be) stitches must diverge from the same hole at the bottom. Thread a long, strong needle with twist, and pass it from the under side of the bone (about one inch below the top end) and right throvigh the centre of it ; pass the needle back to the under- side, about a quarter of an inch from the top, and exactly through the centre of the bone. This will form the long centre stitch. Bring the needle up again ^'^^"""^ '^ through the same hole as at first, and make a shorter stitch on one side, and slightly apart from it ; make one or more stitches on the same side, each one rather shorter than the last, and the same distance apart ; work stitches to correspond on the other side of the centre stitch. Pass the needle (eye foremost) twice or three times under and over these five (or seven, as the case may be) stitches. This will form a stem, and hold them in position (diagram 14). Pass the needle through to the under side of the bone, fasten off the twist securely, and cut it off. I
