379 DRE88 N.B. — The colour of the twist is a matter of taste, but it should always be of the same shade as that used for the cross-stitch fixing the " tight band " to the bodice and marking the centre of the skirt. Feather-stitching Feather-stitching is occasionally used to ornament garments in place of ordinary stitching ; it is effective and can be easily learned. In dressmaking it is most suitable for blouses, cotton or linen dresses, and children's garments. It can be worked in embroidery or crochet cotton, silk, or wool, according to the material on which it is to be done. As a guide to ensure the straightness of the work, a line of tackiag may be made along the band, or otherwise, where the feather-stitching is to be, and the stitches are then worked alternately right and left of the line of tacking, and the cotton, silk, or wool must always be carried under the point of the needle (at each stitch) so as to form a loop. The needle should be slightly slanted towards the line of tacking in working each stitch, as this gives the work a less stiff appearance than if the needle is inserted perfectly straight. Diagram 15 The size of the stitches depends on the material, but they must be of uniform length, and the tendency to increase the size of the stitch as the work proceeds must be guarded against. The finer the material the smaller the stitch should be. Feather-stitching may be single, double, or treble — either one stitch alternately right and left of the line of tacking, or two stitches alternately right and left, or three to the right and three to the left. Diagram 15 illustrates the work. N.B. — The cotton, wool, or silk, must never be drawn too tightly or the appearance of the feather-stitching will be spoilt. To be continued. PRACTICAL LESS0MS IH TAII^ORING FOR HOME WORKERS AND OTHERS By M. PRINCE BROWNE Examiner in Dressmaking^ Tailoring^ Preyich Pattern Modelling, Millinery, and Plain Needlework, •fi> of the Teachers in Trainijig at the University College of South W'ales and Monmouthshire, Cardiff, A the London Technical Examination Centre, etc. Author of '■'■ Up-to-Date Dresscutting and Drafting^^ j^ also " The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring.^ Coiit.Hned from pai;e 231^, Part 2 THIRD LESSON. POCKETS Cording — Coat Pockets — How to Make a Flap Pocket 'HE ornamental cord, made from silk or satin, described in the last lesson, is [now ready to be put on. The design [having been previously traced on the laterial of which the garment is to be lade, the cord must be carefully tacked )n to it (right through the cord), with a [fine needle threaded with silk (pre- ferably), or with fine, soft cotton. The cord must not be twisted, or the appear- ance will be quite spoiled ; nor must it be strained in turning round the curves of the design, or the material will be drawn up and puckered. The lines of the tracing of the design must be completely covered. When the tacking on is completed, the cord can be
- wn on either from the wrong side of the
material by a fine running stitch, and an occasional back stitch, or finely slip-stitched on with strong silk, on the right side. The stitches must be taken well under the cord, as they must not be seen, and they must not be drawn too tightly. N.B. — The method of slip-stitching is ^described in the lesson on dressmaking. In selecting a design for this style of trimming, a running pattern, the lines of which do not cross, should be chosen. In removing the tacking threads, each stitch should be cut before drawing them out. If the work requires pressing when finished, the wrong side of it must be passed over an inverted iron — it must not be pressed flat on a table or board. Coat Pockets The materials required for making the pockets for coats are a piece of the cloth and a piece of the lining which are to be used for making the coat, French canvas, linen (black or white), tacking cotton, machine silk. The French canvas ought always to be shrunk before it is used, and to ensure this, it is advisable for the worker to do it herself. To shrink the canvas, open it out and place it flat on the bare ironing-board or table ; take a piece of linen (an old piece will do) , put it into a basin of water, and then wring it out as dry as possible. Open it out and place it over the canvas, and with a warm iron or
