Page:Face to Face With the Mexicans.djvu/254

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248
FACE TO FACE WITH THE MEXICANS.

of women and children in their best clothes wended their way to the various churches. Business was suspended, even the school children having a holiday; though the public schools, fostered by the government, make no allowance for holidays in their regulations.

The Alameda, the great central figure of every outdoor social event, presented a picture that the mind loves to recall. A more enchanting scene was never opened to the appreciative eye in even the gay and beautiful realms of Fairy Land. In splendor it recalled "The golden prime of good Haroun al Raschid."

The great central pavilion was illuminated by iridescent lights, which were rendered more fairy-like and bewitching by numerous moss-draped mirrors, Chinese lanterns, brilliant growing plants, the magnificent fountain with its silvery showers, and the basin with its dainty, bright-colored fishes, streamers and flags with the national ensign, the whole making a gorgeous Oriental picture, vibrating under the modern electric light.

The Zapadores, of Exposition fame, assisted by other bands, played alternately on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays, and on special feastdays. At night grand concerts took place, which were enjoyed by the most cultured and elegant society. Occasionally benefits were given for charitable purposes.

The play of Don Juan Tenorio, that is known throughout Spain and Spanish America, comes in among the November celebrations, being placed on the boards on All Souls' Day, and is kept there as long as public taste approves.

But to return to the feast. The highest testimonials of remembrance were on that day given to the beloved dead. Every cemetery was filled to its utmost capacity with mourning relatives and friends. The humblest grave at Dolores (cemetery of the poor) was not forgotten, and at the French cemetery the scene was most impressive. The clergy celebrated mass with full orchestral accompaniment; lights burned everywhere, while the glorious tropical sunshine was shut out by the towering forest and ornamental shade trees.

Pictures of deceased friends and relatives were placed at the head-