Page:The New International Encyclopædia 1st ed. v. 19.djvu/213

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TEXAS FEVER. 16',) TEXTILE MANUEACTURING. head droops so that the nose almost reaches the ground ; the liind legs are phiced close iiuder the body; the legs are weak, and the animal frequent- ly lies down, especially in water. The pulse is frequent, sometimes soft and feeble, but often hard and wiry. The inoculation of animals at- tacked with the blood of animals which have recovered is believed to be the only means of cur- ing serious cases. But since the protozoijn is spread from animal to animal by tlie cattle tick {Boophilus bovis), dips which rid the animals of the ticks have been suggested as preventive measures. TEX'EL. The southernmo.st and largest of the West Frisian Islands, belonging to the Dutch Province of North Holland, and situated at the entrance to the Zuvder Zee ( Map : Nether- lands, CI). It is separated from the main- land on the south by the JIarsdiep, about 5 miles wide. Area, 67 square miles. It con- sists largely of good meadow land lined on the north and west by sand dunes, and protected from the sea on the other sides by dikes. The principal industry is sheep-raising, and wool and cheese of fine quality are exported. Popu- lation, in 1809, 5954. TEXIER, tes'yfi', Ch.rles Felix JIarie {1802-71). A French arch.Tologist, born in Versailles. He explored the antiquities of Asia Minor and taught at the College de France. His works include: Description dc I'Asie Mineure, published in Paris and London ( 1839-48) ; 'Oe- scription de VAnncnie, la Perse et de la Mcsopo- tamie (1842-45) ; and Asie Mineure (1862). TEXTILE DESIGNING (Lat. tcxtilis. relat- ing to weaving, from Ushis, fabric, composition, text, from texere, to weave; connected with Gk. TcKTuv, tek1€n, carpenter, rixvi, techiie, art, Skt. taks. to cut. form ) . That branch of textile manu- facturing which is devoted to the construction edge of combining colors and drawing a thorough knowledge of each of the various departments iir processes of textile manufacturing (qv.). The designer must be able to construct fabrics of a required weight, texture, and finish, or for a specific puri)Ose, telling the manufacturer what size of warp and filling to use, how many threads of each to the inch, and what weave will give the required results. The construction of various weaves is one of the most important features of textile design- ing, and an account of weave construction will be found in the article Weaving. A complete design for a woven fabric must contain at least the following specifications: Number of warp threads to an inch ; number of inches wide on loom; number of picks, or filling threads, to an inch : size of warp and filling yarns and ma- terials for same: the weave and the arrangement of the warp thread on the looiu-liarncss. with full particulars relative to niani](iilation of materials in the process of manufacturing; the estimated weight of the fabric as woven; the finishing processes it is to be submitted to, to- gether with its finished width, weight, and tex- ture, that is, the count in warp and filling threads to the inch. When the pattern is to be worked out in colored threads the arrangement of these must be given ; and when the pattern is drawn and possibly colored, then the weave is constructed in such a way as to produce with the woven threads the effect of the drawing as nearly as possible. See Loom; Weaving; Tex- tile SIanufacturing. TEXTILE MANUFACTURING. The in- dustrial group of manufactures embracing the production from the various raw materials of fabrics of cotton, wool, silk, flax, hemp, and jute; hosier.v and knit goods ; felt goods and wool hats : cordage and twine ; laces, braids, and em- broideries. Table I.— Comparative Summary of TEXTmE iNDrsTRiES, Not iNCLrnraa Flax. Hemp, and Jcte, 1880 to 1900, WITH Per Cent, of Increase fob Each Decade Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc.. number.. Salaries Wapre-earners, average number Total wages Men. 16 years and over Wagee WoQien. 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products Date of census 1900 $1,001, $22, $202, $114, $78, $9, $60. $489, 4.171 ,005,815 16.181 ,331.972 640.548 ,690,706 288.871 ,9.')9,158 283.638 ,084.564 68.039 646,984 ,444.630 ,147,315 ,892,969 1890 4,114 $739,973,661 •10,179 •$11,930,750 501,718 $163,616,693 216,345 $91,038,323 243,589 $66,644,785 41,784 $5,933,485 $43,356,736 $421,398,196 $721,9*9,262 1880 4,018 $412,721,4% t t t.'!84.251 $105,050,666 159,382 t 169 806 t 55,063 t H $302 709,894 $532,673,488 Per cent, of increase 1890 to 190O 1880 to 1890 1.4 35.3 69.0 87.2 27.7 23.9 33.5 26.3 16.4 17.2 62.8 62.6 39.4 16.1 22.4 2.4 79.3 30.6 55.8 35.7 43.5 §24'.'i 39.2 35.5 • Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries ; number onl.v reported in 1900. but not inclndpd in this table, t Not reported separatel,v. J Includes 2.115 officers and clerks whose salaries are not reported. § Decrease. H Not reported. of fabrics, their weaves and patterns or designs for the same. L'nlike the designing for printed patterns, whether for textiles, wall-paper, or other purposes, which are termed 'applied de- signs' — and for which the designer is only called upon to use his skill in drawing and color com- bination — the designing of fabrics in which the pattern is to be woven of threads colored be- fore weaving, or in which the pattern is produced by the weaves, necessitates in addition to knowl- Textile Manufacturing in the United St.tes. — Statistics. The importance of the textile indu.str.y in the United States is seen from the accompanying table from the Twelfth Census, which shows .35.3 per cent, increase in the capital invested, during the last decade of the last century, over the decade immediately preceding; an increase of 23.9 per cent, in the annual amount of wages paid for the same period; but only 22.4 per cent, increase in the