CHAPTER IV.
INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORN—EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING
1862
CHAPTER V.
MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL—ON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN—PIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGER—ON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ
1863
CHAPTER VI.
THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSE—ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING
