Index:Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu

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Whymper - Scrambles amongst the Alps.djvu

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- - - - - - - - - -  v  vi  vii  viii  ix  x  xi  xii  xiii  xiv  xv  xvi  xvii  xviii - - 001 002 003 004 005 006 007 008 009 010 011 012 013 014 015 016 017 018 019 020 021 022 023 024 025 026 027 028 029 030 031 032 033 034 - fig. 1 035 036 037 038 039 040 041 042 043 044 045 046 047 048 049 050 051 052 fig. 2 - 053 054 055 056 057 058 059 060 061 062 063 064 065 066 067 068 069 070 071 072 073 074 075 076 077 078 079 080 081 082 - fig. 3 083 084 fig. 4 - 085 086 087 088 089 090 091 092 093 094 095 096 097 098 099 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 - fig. 5 119 120 fig. 6 - 121 122 123 124 125 126 - fig. 7 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 - fig. 8 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 216 - fig. 9 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 - fig. 10 229 230 231 232 233 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 247 248 249 250 251 252 253 254 255 256 257 258 - fig. 11 259 260 261 262 fig. 12 - 263 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 fig. 13 - 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 - fig. 14 285 286 287 288 fig. 15 - 289 290 291 292 293 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 318 319 320 321 322 323 324 325 326 327 328 329 330 331 332 333 334 335 336 337 338 339 340 341 342 343 344 fig. 16 - 345 346 - fig. 17 347 348 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 363 364 365 366 367 368 369 370 371 372 373 374 375 376 377 378 379 380 381 382 383 384 385 386 387 388 389 390 391 392 393 394 395 396 397 398 399 400 401 402 403 404 405 406 407 408 409 410 411 412 413 414 415 416 417 418 419 420 421 422 423 424 - fig. 18 425 426 427 428 429 430 - fig. 19 431 432 433 434 435 436 437 438 439 440 441 442 443 444 445 446 447 448 449 450 451 452 453 454 455 456 457 458 459 460

CONTENTS

1860

CHAPTER I.

Pages 1-13

CHAPTER II.

THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—THE "ASSOCIATION ALIMENTAIRE" OF GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—CROSS THE COL DE LAUTARET—NATIONAL SENTIMENTSWE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOISFIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—VALUE OF THE PASSPORT SYSTEM—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANCON

14-45

CHAPTER III.

46-79

CHAPTER IV.

INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORNEARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING

80-95

1862

CHAPTER V.

MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREILON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORNPIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGERON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ

96-130

1863

CHAPTER VI.

THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSEROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING

FORCED INTO HOLLOWS—PROJECTIONS ALONE SUFFER—CONSEQUENT FLATTENING OF ROCK-SURFACES—ROCHES NIVELEES—STRIATIONS AND THEIR MEANING—VIOLENT GLACIAL ACTION IN ICELAND—ROTUNDITY OF ROCHES MOUTONNEES PROVES A SMALL AMOUNT OF EROSION—ON LEE-SIDES—THE EROSIVE POWER OF A GLACIER CONSTANTLY DIMINISHES—CONSERVATION OF ROCKS—SEILER'S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFSEXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D'ERIN (D'HERENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWSGOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER

131-168

CHAPTER VII.

EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCK—FALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS

169-178

1864

CHAPTER VIII.

MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJEMELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WONTHE VALLON DES ETANÇONS

179-200

CHAPTER IX.

BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAKON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITSLE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER'S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A WARNING

201-221

CHAPTER X.

CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUDON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUNDTHE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ

222-231

CHAPTER XI.

PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIÈRE.

MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY — OUR COMPACT—THE PEAKS OF THE MONT BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE ASCENT—REILLY ADVOCATES PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC— ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—MORAINES IN GREENLAND—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIÈRE—A CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. RElLLY's MAP

232-252

CHAPTER XII.

THE MOMING PASS—ZERMATT.

SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT

253-262

1865

CHAPTER XIII.

THE ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.

ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION—ABRICOLLA

263-273

CHAPTER XIV.

THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE.

LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY'S ASCENT—ON BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A SURPRISE

274-280

CHAPTER XV.

LOST ON THE COL D'HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.

A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D'HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THEODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—"SAUVE QUI PEUT"—BEATEN AGAIN.

281-294

CHAPTER XVI.

ON THE VALLEY OF AOSTA AND THE ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES.

THE BOUQUETIN—ON CRÉTINISM AND GOÎTRE—CAUSES OF THEIR ORIGIN—POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING PROGRESS OF CRÉTINISM—THE ANCIENT GLACIER OF AOSTA AND THE MORAINES OF IVREA—RAMSAY'S EROSION THEORY—TYNDALL's THEORY—CONTRADICTIONS—CRITICISM OF THE THEORIES—CONCLUSIONS—SUMMIT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—WE START AN AVALANCHE

295-345

CHAPTER XVII.

THE COL DOLENT.

CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX

346-352

CHAPTER XVIII.

ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.

CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—STRUCTURE OF GLACIERS—THE "VEINED STRUCTURE"—ORIGIN OF VEINS IN GLACIERS—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX

353-365

CHAPTER XIX.

THE COL DE TALÈFRE.

THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO CORMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC

366-369

CHAPTER XX.

FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPEON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPEALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTIONTHE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ AND HUDSON

370-383

CHAPTER XXI.

CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMITDISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA

384-394

CHAPTER XXII.

ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END

395-408

APPENDIX.