Thus far the box has been the real support, but other frames can be made as well, Fig. 200. The brake is applied at the rear on this reel, and is operated either by hand or foot. The heavy wires are for anchoring purposes, otherwise the construction may be the same as in Fig. 193.
Another way of securing the metal axle to the wooden spool is as follows: Drill two holes thru the pipe just far enough apart to allow spool to fit between. The holes should be just large enough to allow a 16d or 20d nail to go thru. Cut off the heads of the nails, fit in holes with spool on axle, and with good sized staples fasten pins (nails) to sides of spools, see Fig. 201. For the crank, a 38″ hole can be drilled at the outer end of axle to receive a 38″ rod bent at one end to form the handle. The end of the crank that passes thru the axle might be threaded about 114″ so as to put a nut on each side, see Fig. 202.
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Fig. 203.
A Large Reel. The two general plans given above are for comparatively small reels. Fig. 203 shows a reel that winds in over four feet at a turn. It has but one bearing, being attached to the standard by a large bolt for an axle. It would be well to have a piece of pipe just large enough to allow the bolt to turn freely and just long enough to reach thru the wheel as a bushing, for this is much more like a wheel. The sides or flanges are made of two ply wood, in one-half of the thickness the grain runs one way and the other half at right angles to it, so that it prevents warping and is not liable to spit. There is no real drum, but small wooden rods, or slim bolts, hold the sides together, also apart, and are set about two inches in from the outside circumference. In the drawing, the wheel being 18″ in diameter, the bolts or rods are in a circle 14″ in diameter. The bolts or rods should be about eight in number. If wood rods, doweling, are used, they would be glued at both ends and no other posts would be necessary, but with the bolts, posts will be needed to prevent the
