Picturesque New Zealand

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Picturesque New Zealand  (1913) 
by David Paul Gooding

PICTURESQUE
NEW ZEALAND


BY

PAUL GOODING


WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS


Houghton Mifflin Company logo (1913).jpg


BOSTON AND NEW YORK

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

The Riverside Press Cambridge

1913

COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY PAUL GOODING

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Published October 1913

TO MY FATHER
MILES GOODING

PREFACE


The main purpose of this book is to offer the public, and especially American readers, an intimate picture of New Zealand and its people, by one who has thrice visited its captivating shores. It is not intended as a guide-book, and mention of many places of interest more local than general is omitted in preference to the most important attractions. Nothing has been sacrificed, however, that would embarrass the author in his effort to describe the natural wonders and beauties of a country unique in geographical location, structural formation, history, and present-day conditions.

Concerning this country's sociological and industrial conditions, in themselves so large a subject, only a brief reference is made, for these matters deserve to be treated in a separate volume. The purpose of the chapters following is to afford a panoramic view, if that expression may be used, of the group of islands that constitute New Zealand, and that form far-flung outposts of the British Empire.

I take pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness to the following sources of information:—

New Zealand Official Year Book.
School History of New Zealand, Frederick J. Moss.
Hawaiki, S. Percy Smith.
The Maori Race, E. Tregear.
The Maoris of New Zealand, James Cowan.
History and Traditions of the Maoris, Thomas Wayth Gudgeon.
Maori Customs and Superstitions, John White.
Suggestions for a History of the Origin and Migrations of the Maori People, Judge Francis Dart Fenton.
New Zealand, James Cowan.
Geological writings of S. Percy Smith Professor James Park, and Professor A. P. W. Thomas.
Plants of New Zealand, Laing and Blackwell.
Manual of the New Zealand Flora, T. F. Cheeseman.
Forest Flora of New Zealand, T. Kirk.
Nature Notes, Professor J. Drummond.
New Zealand Lakes and Fiords, New Zealand Government.
Royal Commission's Report on Kauri Gum.
The Labor Laws of New Zealand, New Zealand Government.
Awards, Recommendations, Agreements, etc. (under Industrial Conciliation and Arbitration Act), New Zealand Government.

I am also grateful to many state officials for their readiness in supplying me with information.

P. G.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
A Continent in Miniature—A Near-Utopia and Corrected Misconceptions concerning it—A Busy Democracy—Political New Zealand
1
CHAPTER II
Characteristics of the New Zealander—Former Cannibals who have become Good Citizens
33
CHAPTER III
Travel in New Zealand—Government and Tourist—Slow Express—State Railways
54
CHAPTER IV
Entering the Long Bright World—Ashore in Auckland—Reminders of America—Shops and Shopping
62
CHAPTER V
The Thermal Wonderland—Rotorua—The Haka and the Poi—A Strange Outdoor Kitchen—Whakarewarewa's Geysers—Pantomime in a Maori Cooking Reserve—Wonderful Hamurana—Gloomy Tikitere—The Long Swim of Hinemoa—The Cold Lakes
78
CHAPTER VI
The Buried Country—Earthquakes—The World's Greatest Geyser—A Hot Lake—The Wonders of Waiotapu
103
CHAPTER VII
Pulsating Wairakei's Geyser Valley—The Devil's Trumpet—The Geysers and Paint-Pots of Taupo—An Immense Crater Lake—Burning Mountains—Terrifying White Island
117
CHAPTER VIII
Weird Waitomo's Beautiful Caves—Glowworm Grotto
132
CHAPTER IX
Down New Zealand's Rhine—Far-famed Wanganui—Amorous Taranaki
137
CHAPTER X
New Zealand's Hilly Capital—A Win for American Literature—Hunting an Art Gallery—Welcome and Unwelcome Immigrants—A Polite Conductor—Memories of the Renowned Seddon
149
CHAPTER XI
The Sea of the Greenstone—Two Mistakes—Christchurch—Horse-Racing and Gambling—Drunkards' Islands
159
CHAPTER XII
Dunedin—Miscellaneous Ben Rudd and Flagstaff Hill—Roomy Invercargill—State Oysters—Romantic Stewart Island
167
CHAPTER XIII
Lakes and Sounds of the Lone Southwest—The Rabbit Curse—Enchanting Manapouri and Te Anau—The Finest Walk in the World—Milford Sound—New Zealand's Lucerne
178
CHAPTER XIV
Switzerland challenged—The Southern Alps—Up a Mighty Glacier—The Perverse Ski—Mountaineering by Moonlight—Within the Shadows of Mount Cook—Boiling the Billy—Over the Alps to Westland
212
CHAPTER XV
Two Beautiful Gorges—Pelorus Jack—The Marlborough Sounds
236
CHAPTER XVI
North Auckland—Up the Wairoa River—Historic Bay of Islands—Charming Whangaroa and its Celebrated Massacre—Kauri Gum—Life in the Back Blocks—Tarts and Kes—A Maori School and Zealous Pupils
245
CHAPTER XVII
Wonderful Forests—The Strangling Rata and the Lordly Kauri—The Flaming Pohutukawa—Cabbage Trees—The Bowing Toitoi
264
CHAPTER XVIII
Unusual Zoology—The Gigantic Moa—Interesting Birds of To-day—A Land of Many Fishes—The Long Fish of Maui
271
CHAPTER XIX
A Great Maori Carnival—Interviewing a Much-Married Prophet—In a Hauhau Village—A Call on King Mahuta
279
INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS

photographer page
The Right Hon. Richard John Seddon, P.C., thirteen years Prime Minister  Muir & Moodie Frontispiece
Mount Cook from the Hooker River Muir & Moodie 2
A Tattooed Maori Josiah Martin 8
The Right Hon. Sir Joseph George Ward, Bart., P.C, K.C.M.G. Muir & Moodie 18
The Hot Water Basins, White Terrace Muir & Moodie 22
Head of Lake Wakatipu, from Pigeon Island Muir & Moodie 28
Maori Meeting House Muir & Moodie 34
Maori Warrior Josiah Martin 38
A Maori Village Josiah Martin 42
Maori Wahine with Mat of Kiwi Feathers and Pendent Heitiki Iles 50
Government House, Auckland Muir & Moodie 56
Auckland from Mount Eden Josiah Martin 62
Queen Street, Auckland Muir & Moodie 66
Albert Park, Auckland Muir & Moodie 70
Maori Carvings Muir & Moodie 74
Main Bath House, Rotorua Muir & Moodie 80
Poi Dance N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept. 84
The Ducal Haka, Rotorua Muir & Moodie 88
The Inferno Tikitere Josiah Martin 98
Pink Terrace Muir & Moodie 104
Waimangu Geyser Muir & Moodie 110
Champagne Caldron Muir & Moodie 118
Lake Taupo from Motutere Muir & Moodie 122
Ngauruhoe in Action Muir & Moodie 126
Aranui Cave N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept. 132
Wanganui River Josiah Martin 138
London, Wanganui River Muir & Moodie 144
Mount Egmont from Hawera Muir & Moodie 146
Wellington Water Front Muir & Moodie 150
Town Hall, Wellington Muir & Moodie 154
Christchurch Cathedral Josiah Martin 160
Christchurch from Cathedral Muir & Moodie 164
Dunedin Muir & Moodie 168
The Boys' High School, Dunedin Muir & Moodie 170
Invercargill Muir & Moodie 174
Lake Manapouri and Cathedral Peaks Muir & Moodie 178
Safe or Happy Cove, Head of Lake Te Anau Muir & Moodie 182
Milford Track Bush Scene Muir & Moodie 186
Clinton Canyon from McKinnon's Pass Muir & Moodie 192
Mitre Peak, Milford Sound Muir & Moodie 200
The Lion, Milford Sound Muir & Moodie 202
Queenstown and the Remarkables Muir & Moodie 206
Section of the Alps and Tasman Glacier Muir & Moodie 216
Cutting steps on Ice Face, Tasman Glacier Muir & Moodie 224
Mount Sefton and the Footstool Muir & Moodie 232
Otira Gorge, West Coast Road Muir & Moodie 236
Buller Gorge, Hawk's Crag Muir & Moodie 240
Wainia Falls N. Z. Govt., Tourist Dept 250
Gum Diggers at Work in Kauri Forest Josiah Martin 256
A Giant Kauri Josiah Martin 268
Kiwi and Egg Josiah Martin 274
A Tattooed Maori with Huia Feathers in Hair Muir & Moodie 280
A Hongi Josiah Martin 282
Women's Canoe Hurdle Josiah Martin 286
At the Finish Line Josiah Martin 288
Rua and Four of his Wives J. Macquarters 294
Te Kooti's House Josiah Martin 310
"King" Mahuta 316
Map of New Zealand Inside of covers