A Complete Course in Dressmaking/Lesson 6/Pattern making

by Isabel De Nyse Conover

PATTERN MAKING

YOUR block waist pattern will serve you to advantage in making dress patterns, too. In fact, with a good waist pattern you can go right ahead and copy almost any dress style that you happen to fancy.

For making dress patterns, the waist pattern that you use as a block, ought to be cut high at the neck and without seam allowances. Copy it in firm stiff paper.

Making a Pattern for a Straight Hanging Dress: Straight hanging dresses are by far the easiest to copy and make. A few lines added to your waist pattern will give you the style shown in Fig. 32.

Fig. (32) A practical porch frock or morning dress

Lay the front and back of the block pattern on another piece of paper and trace around them. (See Fig. 33.) Then, continue the center-front and the center-back lines, as lines, AB and FG.

Fig. (33) Diagram for making straight-hanging dress pattern

To determine the proper length, measure on the person from the neck down the center-back the desired depth. See how far this will bring the skirt from the floor in the back. Then, measure the same distance up from the floor in the front and, from this point measure to the neck.

Apply the front measurement along the line AB and draw a line at right angle to the center-front line at the bottom, as line BC. Apply the back measurement along the line FG and draw a line at right angle to the center-back line at the bottom, as line GH.

Decide how wide you want the front of the dress at the lower edge and apply this amount along the line AC. Draw a line from this point to the armhole. Also, in the back, mark the desired width at the lower edge along line GH and from this point, draw a line to the bottom of the armhole.

Now you are ready to true up the lower edge. Trace the sides and bottoms of the front and back onto another piece of paper. Cut out these sections along the armhole, underarm seam and bottom. Bring the two pieces together at the underarm seam, matching the edge at the armhole. Draw a curve, free hand at the bottom that blends into the lower edge lines near the center-front and center-back. Trace this new lower edge line on your original diagram—lines DB, IG.

At the waistline, measure in three-quarters of an inch and mark point E. Curve the underarm seam from this point to the armhole and the bottom. Trace the curve onto another piece of paper, also running the tracing wheel along the armhole and lower edge for a ways. Cut out this outline and lay it on top of the back diagram to mark the same curve there. (See line IJ.)

This gives you a pattern where the fullness in the front hangs straight down below the bust. It is alright for a woman who is not very full across the bust. In large sizes, it is better to swing some of the fullness to the back.

To do this, mark a line from the center of the shoulder through the side front of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 34—line ABC. Point C indicates the depth of a dart at the shoulder. Cut the pattern along the line ABC.

On a new piece of paper, mark a straight line with your ruler as line AB, Fig. 35. Place the front portion of your old pattern on the paper. Mark a point on the front line of the old pattern about five inches below the neck. Keep this point on your new line AB and swing

Fig (34) Diagram to regulate the hang of the dress	Fig (35) Diagram with fullness swung to the side

the lower portion beyond the line until the lower edge laps over the line about one and one-half inches. See Fig. 35, point C. The space on the diagram from C to B indicates the amount the old pattern extends beyond the new center-front line. This throws a dart at the neck at the center-front, but, as the neck of the dress shown in Fig. 32 is in V-outline, this will not matter.

The new center-front line of the pattern will be from the neck of the old pattern down to line AB and then, along the line AB. Now, you have done away with three inches of fullness in the front—an inch and a half on either side of the center-front.

Next place the other portion of the old pattern on the new diagram, Fig. 35, keeping the edge even with the front portion at the bottom of the shoulder dart (point C, Fig. 34), and swing the lower part over the front portion, as indicated by heavy dotted line, Fig. 35. Point D is the lower edge of the old pattern piece. (Remember that the shoulder dart must run down to the fullest part of the bust, otherwise you will make your pattern too small in the bust.)

Of course, you have made your pattern very much smaller around the bottom. You can add as much fullness as you want at the side and it will hang at the side and not poke out in the front even on a large busted woman. Draw a line at right angle to your new center front line at the lower edge. (See line CE, Fig. 35.) Measure on this line, half the width you want the front. Draw a line from the bottom of the armhole to this point. Use your old pattern as a guide and draw in the curve at the side seam. This will give you the proper length of the side. Recurve the bottom, using the old pattern as a guide. Allow seams at all edges except the center-front and center-back, and also hems at the bottoms.

To make the collar pattern, place the front and back patterns on another piece of paper and trace around the upper portions of them on the original lines, without seams, keeping the edges together at the shoulder. Determine the depth that you want the neck opening in the front and draw a line from the side of the neck to this point (See Fig. 36.) Then, mark a point on the center-back line at the depth you want the collar. From this point draw a line at right angle to the center-back, line. Measuring on the center-back line, mark a point at the depth you want collar.

At this depth draw a line at right angle to the center-back line. Measuring from the new neck outline, mark points at the depth you want the collar all the way around. Then, draw the curve at the outer edge of the collar, free hand, blending it into the line squared from the center-back line. Make the point in the front blunt or deep, as desired. (See Fig. 36.) Make a square outline in the back, if desired. In cutting out the pattern, allow seams at all edges except the center-back.

Fig. (36) Diagram for making collar pattern

To make the sleeve pattern, use your foundation sleeve pattern. Mark around it on another piece of paper, as shown in Fig. 37. Mark points half way between the top and bottom as points A and B. Draw a line between these two points. This gives you the lower edge of a sleeve that will come just to the bend of the elbow.

Fig. (37) Diagram for sleeve pattern

Decide the depth of cuff that you want. Mark a line this distance above the line AB, as indicated by the line CD, Fig. 37. Place a piece of paper under the diagram and trace across the lines CD and AB and the sides of the sleeve for the cuff.

In cutting out the pattern for the cuff, allow a hem at the top and seams on the other edges. In cutting out the sleeve pattern allow seams at all edges.

Cutting a Straight Hanging Dress: Such a style as is shown in Fig. 32 might be made in any medium weight cotton. If you are making a morning frock, try unbleached muslin touched up with trimmings of gay flowered chintz. They are using flowered calicos too. They come in delightful shades of pink, lavender and light green, to say nothing of the lovely shades that are offered in blue. Of course, gingham and chambray are always nice.

The simplest of straight hanging styles also are used for silks, such as canton crepe and crepe de chine. A medium wool, too, will make up attractively in a straight hanging style.

In placing the pattern on the goods, put the center-front and the center-back on the fold. Also place the center-back of the collar on the fold. A straight piece can be used for the belt. Keep the center of the sleeve on the straight thread of the goods. The edge of the cuff should also be straight unless you are planning bias cuffs for trimming, such as bias plaid or checked gingham cuffs. Fig. 38 shows one way of placing the pattern.

Fig. (38) The pattern for the straight hanging dress placed on the goods

Making a Straight Hanging Dress: Finish the front closing first. Slash to placket depth and finish the right edge of the opening with a facing and the left edge with an extension as shown in Fig. 39.

Make French seams at the shoulder. Then, put on the collar while the garment is out flat. Line the collar. Stitch the collar to the neck and face the raw edges.

Fig. (39) Finishing the closing

Double stitch the sleeves to the armhole. Close the sleeve and underarm seams in a continuous stitching. Make French seams here, too. Turn hem at top of cuff and stitch to lower edge of sleeve.

Try on the dress and mark the waistline. Stitch a bias casing to the waistline on the wrong side of the garment. (See Fig. 40.) Insert elastic cut to fit the waistline comfortably, plus a lap. Fasten elastic at closing with over-and-over stitches.

Fig. (40) The casing at the waistline

Turn a hem at lower edge of dress. Line belt and sew straps to side seams. Finish closing with buttons and buttonholes.

The pockets are just oblongs of material. Allow a hem at the top in cutting and seams at the sides. Hem the tops and then, turn the seams at the sides and press the pockets.

It's a good plan to try on the dress to place the pockets.

They ought to be placed so the hands can be slipped into them easily. Pin them in place and then stitch around them, running the stitching about one-eighth of an inch from the edge.

Making a pattern for a Straight Hanging Dress with Back Closing: You can make many variations in your straight hanging dress pattern. The placing of the closing is merely a matter of choice. The shape of the neck, too, can be changed. You can do away with the darts at the shoulder, if you desire.

Fig. (41) A straight hanging dress with center-back closing

In copying such a style as is shown in Fig. 41, use your original diagram for the straight hanging dress before the dart was put in at the shoulder. Mark the neck outline as desired. Then instead of running the line AB, Fig. 34 to the shoulder, stop it below the armhole and run it over to

Fig. (42) Diagram showing how to throw the skirt fullness to the side	Fig. (43) Diagram showing how to allow for closing at the center-back

the underarm. To take out the fullness in the front, slash the pattern from the underarm to the line AB, Fig. 34, and lay a pleat along the line AB, making it deeper at the bottom and running it to nothing at the slash. (See Fig. 42.) Add the necessary width at the side, as described before.

To make the closing at the center-back, use your original back diagram. First, add half the width of the lap beyond the center-back, as line CD, Fig. 43. Line AB is the center-back. Then, add the hem allowance beyond as the line EF. Before cutting the new pattern add seams on all edges. Turn the hem on line CD, before cutting the upper and lower edges.

To make the collar pattern, lay the front and the back patterns on another piece of paper and trace around the upper portions, tracing along the original lines, without seams and, keeping the shoulder edges even and together. (See Fig. 44.) Indicate the new neck outline as line CD, Fig. 44. The line AB is the center-back. Measuring from the new neck outline, mark the depth of the collar and then, draw the outer line, free hand.

Slant the back edge of the collar, as indicated by the line DF. This gives you a collar pattern that will lie flat.

Fig. (44) Diagram for round collar that opens in the back

If you want it to roll, cut the pattern in sections and spread it at the top, as indicated in Fig. 45. Add twice the height of the roll beyond the upper edge of the collar, as shown by the dotted line. In cutting out the pattern, allow seams at all edges, except the center-front. This will be placed on the fold of the goods in cutting. The collar will gather to the neck a little, when it is sewn on.

Fig. (45) Adding roll to the collar pattern

Use the block sleeve pattern, adding a hem at bottom. (See Lesson on Pattern Making.)

Cutting the Dress, Fig. 41: The center-front and center-back edges of the front and back pieces should be placed on the straight thread of the goods. The back can be placed on any straight thread that cuts to advantage but the front edge must be placed on the fold. The center-front of the collar also ought to be placed on the fold. The center of the sleeve should be on the straight thread and the belt ought to be cut straight of the goods.

Fig. (46) Turning the hems at the back closing

Making the Straight Hanging Dress with Back Closing: After the dress material is cut, your best plan is to turn the hems on the back closing first. Turn, press well and stitch the hems as shown in Fig. 46, but do not stitch all the way to the bottom. Leave the edges of the hems loose for about six inches. These edges are stitched better after the hem at the lower edge of the frock is turned.

Bind the raw edges at the shoulder and in joining make an open seam. Stay neck, stitching around it to prevent stretching. Line the collar and face the collar to the neck.

Figure 47 shows the pleats laid in at the underarm. Bind the edges and make open seam here, too.

Fig. (47) Lay fullness at underarm in small pleats

If there is a dart in the back of the sleeve, close the dart, bind the raw edges on the wrong side of the sleeve and stitch the second time, running the stitching one-eighth of an inch from the joining on the right side of the sleeve. Bind the raw edges at the sides of the sleeve and make an open seam, just as the shoulder seam was finished. Turn the hem at the bottom of the sleeve.

If sleeve seam is at front of armhole, turn dress wrong side out and the sleeve right side out. Match the edges of the sleeve with the edges at the armhole, and pin the sleeve to the armhole all the way around, placing the pins about one inch apart and at right angles to the edge, the points projecting into the sleeve and the heads beyond the raw edges. Put your hand inside the sleeve and hold out the garment: if any draws or even wrinkles appear, shift the pins until the sleeve seems to set smoothly. Then baste it in and try on the garment.

If the garment fitted properly before the sleeve was put in and wrinkles appear in the body part after the sleeve is basted in, it is proof that the sleeve is in wrong and dragging the garment out of shape. If the dress sets smoothly but the sleeve binds and draws either at the front or back, then the sleeve is in wrong.

Test the sleeve by moving the arm to the front and the back. If the sleeve is not comfortable or it is pulling the dress out of shape, rip the basting at the armhole and shift the sleeve to the front or the back until it hangs properly.

Sew the sleeve to the armhole with a plain seam and then bind it. If you are hanging your own dress try the plan of standing near a table and marking the skirt with pins. After the lower edge of the skirt is cut off evenly, bind it. Turn the amount of the hem and press the lower edge.

At the center-back closing, cut away the material as shown in Fig. 48. Then turn the hem at back edge over the lower hem. (See Fig. 49.) This does away with bulk and makes a neat finish. However, it is well to note that it is impossible to let down a skirt finished in this manner.

Fig. (48) To do away with bulk at the back closing, cut off the surplus goods

Fig. (49) Finishing the lower hem at the back closing

Lap the back edges, keeping center-backs even and stitch from placket depth to bottom over the first stitching of the tuck. Finish the back with buttonholes and buttons.

Making a Pattern for a Long-Waisted Dress: In the case of a long waist dress, as shown in Fig. 50, go back to your block waist pattern and work on a new diagram. (See Fig. 51.)

Fig. (50) A long waisted frock suitable for a medium weight woolen

Continue the center-front and center-back lines below the original waist pattern. See lines AB and EF. Determine how long you want the front and draw a line from this point at right angle to the center-front line. See the line BC. Also, mark the length of back and draw a line at this point at right angle to the center-back line, as FG.

Fig. (51) Diagram for making long waisted pattern

Mark the width you want the front and back on these lines and connect the last mentioned points with the armhole. Trace the sides of the patterns onto another piece of paper, running the tracing wheel along the armholes, sides and lower edges. Cut out these two portions and bring them together, matching the sides and keeping the edges even at the armhole. Draw an even curve at the lower edge, running it into the original lower lines a few inches away from the center-front and center-back. Use these pieces as a guide in marking the lower edge on the diagram.

Curve underarm seam as indicated on the diagram, first on the front. Trace the curve onto another piece of paper, also running the tracing wheel a little ways along the armhole and lower edge. Cut out this portion and use it as a guide in marking the curve on the back at the underarm.

Allow seams in cutting out the pattern at all edges, except the center-front and center-back.

To make the collar pattern, lay the front and back pattern on another piece of paper. First run the tracing wheel around the upper portion of the front, without seams, that is inside the seam allowance. Then, trace around the back in the same way, keeping the shoulder edge of the back even with the shoulder edge of the front. (See Fig. 52)

Fig. (52) Diagram for making side collar pattern

This gives you a diagram on which to mark the collar outline. (See dotted line in Fig. 52.)

Fig. 62 shows how to make the lining pattern.

Pleat the skirt according to the rules given in the SKIRT LESSON.

Use your regular full length block sleeve.

Cutting a Long Waisted Dress: The front and the back of the waist patterns should be placed on the fold of the goods.

Keep the center of the sleeve on the straight thread of the goods. Lay the larger pieces on the goods first and then fit in the smaller pieces.

Making a Long Waisted Dress: This style of dress needs a waist lining. Use net, china silk or mulle for the lining.

The dress closes at the left shoulder and underarm seam. So close only the right shoulder and underarm seams.

If the dress is serge bind the raw edges at the right shoulder and underarm and make open seams, but if the dress is silk make French seams. Baste the lining to the outside at the shoulder and underarm seams and neck edge. Stitch around neck of both outside waist and lining to hold the edge in shape.

The sleeves must be joined to the armholes before finishing closing. If you are using a two-piece sleeve, there will be fullness in the upper sleeve at the outside seam at the elbow. Gather the sleeve at this point. (See Fig. 53.) In woolen materials steam out as much of this fullness as possible, before joining upper sleeve to under sleeve.

If the garment is silk, make French seams, but a woolen fabric is too clumsy with French seams. Bind the edges before joining the inner sleeve seam.

Fig. (53) The fullness at the elbow of a two-piece sleeve

The front seam of a two-piece sleeve is placed to front of armhole.

Hang sleeve as described in making straight-hanging dress. However, in this case the left sleeve is free from the front as the garment closes at the left side.

Finish the back edge of the closing with a shaped extension and the front edge of the closing with a facing. As the extension will be under the front and therefore must fit the front, use the front pattern as a guide in cutting it. Measure back from the edge of the pattern one and three-quarter inches as indi

Fig. (54) Making the pattern for a shaped facing

Fig. (55) Stitching the two extension pieces together

Fig. (56) The extension sewn to the back

Fig. (57) The front of the waist faced

†cated by dotted lines in Fig. 54. This gives a pattern for both extension and facing.

Cut two pieces for the extension as it must be double, and one piece for the facing. Stitch the two pieces for the extension together as shown in Fig. 55, and turn right side out. Join extension to back of shoulder, sleeve and back at underarm as shown in Fig. 56. Stitch facing to front as shown in Fig. 57.

If collar is washable material make it detachable. Line the collar and join to a straight narrow band cut the size of the neck. Face neck of dress with a narrow bias facing. Baste the collar to the neck, leaving the left side free from shoulder to front.

Close the skirt seams, making French seams in silk or binding the seams in woolens. Hem the skirt and then pleat it as described in the Skirt Lesson, spacing the pleats according to the picture. Slash the skirt under a pleat at the left side for a placket and bind the edges of the slash.

Turn a tuck at the bottom of the outside waist. Lap the waist over the skirt and stitch around the lower edge of the waist about one-half inch back from the edge.

Finish lower edge of lining with grosgrain belt and tack lining to dress at shoulders.

Making a Pattern for a Waistline Dress. If the dress you are copying has a joining at the waistline, then the problem you have is merely that of a waist and skirt. In the case of the dress, shown in Fig. 58, use your block waist pattern, marking for the vest front.

Fig. (58) A waistline dress that you might copy in a cotton goods or silk

Mark around the front of the block pattern, as shown in Fig. 59. Then, draw a line where you want the side of the vest, as line AB. Also mark the band at the top of the vest. See lines CD and EF. You will want the vest to lap under the side front sections so mark the amount of lap on the diagram, as line DFG.

Fig. (59) Diagram for making front of waist pattern

Put another piece of paper under the diagram and trace the vest, tracing along the center-front line, the bottom and the lines EFG. Cut this vest section and place it on another piece of paper, allowing any amount of fullness desired in front of it as line CD, Fig. 60. Here line AB is the center-front of the vest. In cutting out the vest allow seams at the top, back edge and bottom.

Fig. (60) Vest pattern

Now go back to Fig. 59. Put another piece of paper under the diagram and trace around the band at the top of the vest. This will be along the lines EC, CD, DF and EF. Allow seams at CD, DF and EF, in cutting out the pattern. From C to E is the center-front and will be placed on the fold of the goods in cutting.

Now you can use your diagram for the side front pattern. Cut out this portion, allowing a seam in front of line AB and also seams at the shoulder, armhole, underarm seam and lower edges. (See Fig 59).

The back will be the same as the block pattern with seams added.

To make the collar pattern, trace the front and the upper part of the back onto another piece of paper. Trace the front first, tracing along the sewing line, that is, without seams. Then, trace the upper part of the back without seams, keeping the shoulder edges even. (See Fig. 61.) Mark the outline of the collar as indicated by the AB. This gives a collar that lies flat on the dress. If you want a collar to roll high in the back, use just a straight fold of goods.

Fig. (61) A diagram for making a Tuxedo collar

To make the lining pattern, use your block pattern, as shown in Fig. 62. Place the block pattern on another piece of paper and mark round the outside.

Lower the neck in the back about an inch and a half, as indicated by the dotted line on the diagram.

Fig. (62) Diagram for making lining waist patterns

Mark a point on the shoulder in the front that matches the back neck outline. From this point, draw a square neck which is a trifle lower than the outside waist, so it will not show when the dress is on.

Allow hems in the front. In cutting out the patterns, allow seams at all edges, except the center-back.

To make the sleeve pattern, use your block shirtwaist sleeve pattern. Decide on the length that you want it at the underarm seams and mark points an equal distance from the lower edge at each side, as points A and B. (See Fig. 63.) Draw a line connecting these points.

Fig. (63) Diagram for flowing sleeve

Mark the center of the sleeve, as point C. Also mark points half way between C and A and half way between C and B, as points D and E. At point D, draw a line at right angle to the line AB and mark a point on it, one-half inch above the line AB. At point E, draw a line at right angle to line AB and mark a point on it, one-half inch below line AB. Curve a new lower edge line from A to B, touching these new points on lines D and E and passing through point C. To look well, a flowing sleeve ought to be shorter in the front and longer in the back as this curved line. In cutting out the sleeve pattern, allow seams at all points.

Fig. (64) Diagram for making tunic pattern

For tunic use block and make a two-piece skirt that measures about two and one-fourth yards around the bottom, for a size thirty-six bust, according to the directions given in the Skirt Lesson. Use this for your tunic pattern, marking it the desired length. See dotted line in Fig. 64. In cuting out patterns, for the front and back tunic, allow seams at sides and a hem at bottom.

Fig. (65) Diagram for making drop skirt pattern

For the foundation skirt, make a two-piece skirt pattern measuring about one and one-half yards, for size thirty-six bust. See Fig. 65. You will want the lower portion of this skirt of material the same as the dress and the upper part of lining. Mark a line which will come about four inches above the lower edge of the tunic. See dotted line in Fig. 65.

Put a piece of paper under the diagram and trace the upper front, allowing seams at the top, side and below the dotted line. The center-front does not need a seam as it will be placed on the fold of the goods. Trace the upper back in the same way. In tracing the lower portion allow seams above the dotted line, also at the sides and allow a hem off any desired depth at the bottom.

Fig. (66) Diagram showing the upper foundation skirt pattern placed on the goods

If you want the upper foundation skirt to fit without fullness mark the darts from your block pattern.

Fig. (67) Diagram showing lining pattern on the goods

Fig. (68) Diagram showing the dress pattern on the goods

Cutting a Waistline Dress: Fig. 66 shows the upper foundation skirt laid on the material. Fig. 67 shows the lining waist and Fig. 68 the outside waist, the tunic and lower skirt properly placed on the goods, which is folded double, lengthwise. Of course, these are just sample layouts. The size of your pattern and the width of your goods makes a difference in placing the pieces.

A waistline dress such as is shown in Fig. 58 will make up prettily in silk—taffeta, crepe de chine, charmeuse or even a thin chiffon or georgette. It is an attractive style, too, for light weight cottons—voile, organdie, batiste, gingham tissue and mulle. Sometimes, lighter weight woolens are made up in this kind of a style.

Making a Waistline Dress: Make your lining waist first. Turn and stitch the hems at the front closing. If you intend fastening the closing with snaps or buttons, turn the edge a half inch beyond the center-front. However, if you are going to use hooks and eyes, turn the edges at the center-front, as the edges will not lap.

French seam the underarm joinings. Finish neck and armholes with lace edge. Gather lower edge of lining and try it on to adjust fullness properly.

Cut an inside belt of grosgrain belting to fit the waistline comfortably, plus hems. Turn and stitch the hems in the belt. Lay the lower edge of the lining over the belt, bringing it center-way of the belt and baste it in place.

Fig. (69) Finishing the top of the vest

Make French seams at the shoulder joining of the outside waist and run a thread around the neck by hand to prevent stretching. Stitch the facing to the lower edge of the sleeve.

French seam the sleeve to the armhole and then close the sleeve and underarm seam in one continuous stitching. Use French seams here, too. Line the collar, and baste it to the neck edge. Gather the top of the vest section and join to band as shown in Fig. 69. Finish left edge of vest with narrow extension. (See Fig. 70.) Then, baste vest to right side front and stitch a narrow bias of silk or lining fabric along the edge. Turn the bias onto the wrong side and fell it down by hand.

Mark the center-back and the center-front of the waist, then gather the lower edge. Try on lining and waist, adjusting fullness properly at lower edge and pinning lower edge of waist to center of belt over lining.

Fig. (70) Finishing the side of the vest

After waist is removed baste lower edge in place. As waist closes at left side-front and lining and belt at center-front, lower edge of waist will be free from center-front to opening.

Make upper part of foundation skirt of lining material. Take up darts at the side-front and side-back or gather tops. Make French seams at the joinings, leaving the left side seam open to placket depth. Finish the placket with a continuous facing.

The lower section of the skirt is of the dress material. Make French seams at the joinings. Join lower section to upper with a French seam.

French seam the two pieces of the tunic together, leaving the left side seam open to placket depth. If the material is transparent just hem the edges of the placket, but in serge or medium-weight silk finish the placket with a continuous facing.

Turn a one-inch hem at the lower edge of the tunic. Mark the center-front and center-back of both the foundation skirt and the tunic. Gather the tunic at the top. Then, try on the waist and join the foundation skirt to the center of the inside belt, matching the center-front and center-back of the skirt with the center-front and center-back of the belt.

If the skirt cups in the back and pokes out in the front, raise it a trifle at the waistline at the back.

If it swings to the back and binds across the knees in the front raise it a trifle in the front at the waistline.

After the under skirt is properly hung, join the tunic to the center of the inside belt, matching the center-fronts and the center-backs. Adjust the fullness becomingly. Usually more fullness is thrown to the back than the front.

Determine just how the foundation skirt is to be hung and the tunic adjusted. Remove the garment, unpin the waist and tunic at the waistline and readjust them, distributing the fullness just the same, but this time turn the skirt wrong side out and join it with the raw edge extending toward the bottom of the belt. (See Fig. 71.)

Fig. (71) Sewing the skirt to the grosgrain belting

Skirt and tunic will be free from the belt and waist from center-front to left underarm where placket is. After skirt is stitched, turn it down into its finished position. All the raw edges are hidden at the waistline except where the waist and skirt are free from the belt. Join the lower edge of the waist, from center-front to the closing in the waist, to the top of the skirt and stay the skirt, from center-front to placket, with a narrow facing.

Cover raw edges on belt, from center-front to underarm seam on left side, with a narrow bias of material.

Try on the dress to turn the hem at the lower edge. If you are trying the dress on some one else, a pasteboard guide will help to turn the lower edge evenly. Decide the distance from the floor that you want the skirt at the center-front and notch the cardboard this distance from the bottom. Test the length of the skirt all the way around with the cardboard as you turn the hem.

Finish the closing in the waist lining with small hooks and eyes or snaps, the waistband with strong hooks and eyes, and the dress closing with snaps.

Fig. (72) The Russian blouse dress is another type suitable for materials of medium weight

Making a Pattern for a Russian Blouse Dress: Another variety of dress that you will probably want to copy is the Russian blouse style shown in Fig. 72.

Fig. (73) Diagram for making Russian blouse pattern

Use your block waist pattern and go about making the new pattern just the same as you did the straight hanging dress. Or, if you have just made the straight hanging dress diagram, use this as a foundation on which to work. (See Fig. 73.)

Mark the length you want and the new neck outline, as indicated by the dotted lines in the diagram.

Fig. (74) Diagram for making notched collar pattern

Fig. 74 shows the upper portions of the pattern traced onto another piece of paper and the collar outline marked. First measure the depth of the collar in the back and draw a line at right angle to the center-back line. (See Line B, Fig. 74.) Curve the collar from this point around to the bottom of the front opening: A, Fig. 74. It's a good plan to mark the collar outline faintly at first and keep working over the line.

Fig. (75) Diagram showing the pattern place on the goods which is folded double, lengthwise

Decide where you want the notch and draw it as indicated by lines CD in Fig. 74. In cutting out collar pattern, allow seams at all edges except center-back.

Use your tight fitting block sleeve pattern allowing a turn up at the bottom.

Make the foundation skirt and the lining waist patterns just the same as in the WAISTLINE DRESS.

Cutting a Russian Blouse Dress: Fig. 75 shows the pattern placed on the goods which is folded double lengthwise. In placing pattern on goods keep moving it around until you have it fitted in to the smallest space.

You will find such a dress makes up prettily in a silk, a cotton or a woolen goods that is medium in weight. Tricotine, serge and twill are especially suited to such styles. Wool jersey is also made up in the overblouse effects. You might try cottons such as gingham, linene, chambray or ratiné. If you are planning a silk dress choose, faille, taffeta, satin, charmeuse or a fairly heavy crepe.

Fig. (76) The sleeves are sewn to the lining waist and the armholes faced

Making a Russian Blouse Dress: The skirt is hung from a foundation waist of net, china silk or mulle. (See Fig. 76.) The underwaist is usually white regardless of the color of the dress, as colored linings are apt to rub off on the underwear.

Overblouse dresses are made either with the

Fig. (77) Making the pattern for the armhole facings

sleeve joined to the underwaist or sewn to the armhole of the overblouse. The overblouse is apt to set better if the sleeve is sewn to the underwaist. If the sleeve is set into the underwaist, the underwaist must be faced with the dress material at the armhole, so if there

Fig. (78) Sewing on the facings

is any gap at the armhole the lining stuff will not show.

Use the underwaist pattern as a guide in cutting the facings for the armhole. Measure back from the armhole edge on the pattern three inches as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 77. This will give a pattern for the facings.

Make French seams at the shoulder and underarm of the underwaist, after the facing pieces have been joined to the front and the back of the lining waist as shown in Fig. 78. Make sleeve and join to armhole as described in making One-piece Dress. If sleeve is to be joined to overblouse, finish armhole of underwaist with lace edge. Finish neck of underwaist, turn hems at front, join it to an inside belt and make and hang drop skirt as described in making Waistline Dress, except in this case the skirt placket is at the center-front, matching the closing in the underwaist.

In making the overblouse close the shoulder seams first. If it is a woolen dress, bind the edges of the pieces and make open seams. In silk make French seams. Stitch around neck to keep neck in shape. Line collar and revers, join collar and revers to neck and face raw edges with narrow bias.

Line vest and stitch to right side of opening in blouse.

Close underarm seams. Bind or face armholes. Hem lower edge.

Make narrow material sash as described in Straight-hanging Dress.

Making a Pattern for a Bloused Dress: It may be that a low waistline dress with a blousy effect will appeal to you. It's a becoming style for a slim woman. But even if you do not want to wear such a dress, making the diagram will give you good practice.

If you are copying such a style as is shown in Fig. 79, use your block waist pattern. (See Fig. 80.) After you have placed your pattern on another piece of paper and marked around it, lengthen the center-front and center-back lines, lines AB and GH, in Fig. 80.

Fig. (79) Dress of wool jersey with bloused-over effect at low waistline

Measure down the center-back of the person and decide just how low you want the waistline. Measure this same distance from the neck on the line GH. Draw a new lower line at this depth across both the back and

Fig. (80) Diagram for making low bloused-over waist

the front. See lines CD and I. Decide how much you want the waist to blouse and draw another line this distance below lines CD and I, as lines EF and JH on the diagram.

When you lengthen a waist pattern in this way, usually it is necessary to take off a little in the front at the underarm seam. See dotted line on diagram. Also the back will

Fig. (81) The new neck and closing outline on the pattern

need fullness added at the underarm, as a bloused over effect must not give the appearance of being scant. See dotted line on diagram for the back. The amount you add is a matter of taste.

Where the front closing is at the side-front, as in this case, cut out your front and place it on another piece of paper, mark around it and then, turn it over and mark around it again, keeping the center-front on the same line each time. (See Fig. 81.) This gives you the whole front on which to work. Line AB is the center-front, Fig. 81. Mark the position of the closing as line CD, also the amount the left front will extend under the right front as line EF. Mark the new neck outline on both the front and back, as lines GI and JK, Fig. 81.

Fig. (82) Diagram showing how to make the neck facing pattern

Place a piece of paper under the diagram for the front and trace the right front, tracing along the neck, armhole, underarm and lower edge over to line CD and then across line CD. In cutting out the pattern, allow seams at the neck, shoulder, armhole, underarm and bottom and a hem at the line CD. You can use your diagram for the left front, adding a seam beyond the shoulder, armhole, underarm and bottom and a hem on the edge EF. In cutting out the back, allow seams at all edges, except the center-back. The center-back will be placed on the fold in cutting the goods.

To make pattern for the neck facing, trace the upper parts of the patterns on another piece of goods, tracing along the original lines of the diagram without seams, and keeping the shoulder edges together. (See Fig. 82.) Line AB is the center-front and line CD is the center-back. Mark the facing in any desired shape, as indicated by the dotted line.

Fig. (83) Pattern for slashed sleeve

To make the sleeve pattern use your block shirtwaist sleeve and mark around it for a diagram. (See Fig. 83.) Shorten it the width that you want the lower band and curve the lower edge as the lower edge of the flowing sleeve was curved. Mark the slash at the center as the line CF. The band cuff is just a straight piece of goods.

Make a two-piece skirt pattern, as described in the Lesson on Skirts. On this diagram, measure the amount that the dress is below the waistline. (See Fig. 84.) Cut new pattern a seam's width above dotted line.

Cutting a Bloused Dress: Remember that you have the pattern for both the fronts. Also that the collar pattern provides for the entire piece. Cut these pieces on only one thickness of the goods.

Fig. (84) Marking the low waistline on the skirt pattern

The center-back of the waist and the center-front and the center-back of the skirt ought to be placed on the fold of the goods.

You will need a waist lining cut the same shape but shorter than the outside waist, to hold it up and make it blouse over. Use your waist pattern for cutting this, making it the length of line CDI in diagram 80.

Use a net, china silk or mulle for the lining. The dress style is suitable for any medium weight goods. A fine serge or tricotine works to advantage in a bloused-over effect. Or, it might suit your purpose better, in a heavy crepe silk, rough weave sport's silk or a cotton such as ratine, cotton homespun, gingham or chambray.

Making a Bloused Dress: If you are using cotton material or silk, make French seams in the waist joinings. In woolen goods, open seams that are bound will look better. Your best plan will be to finish the waist and waist lining separately and just join them at the waistline. Make French seams in joining the lining pieces, and turn narrow hems at the neck and armhole of the lining or finish these edges with narrow lace.

Hem the edges at the closing of the lining and run gather threads around the bottom, first marking the center-front and center-back.

Turn the edges at the closing of the waist, baste and press them. In a case of this kind, often the edges are left unstitched. If this leaves a raw edge at the back of the hem, either turn a very narrow hem on the edge (one-eighth inch) and stitch it before turning the edge at the closing or bind the edge.

Place the neck facing on the wrong side of the waist with the edges even at the neck. Stitch around the neck and turn the facing onto the right side of the dress. Turn under the raw edges of the facing and press them. Then, stitch around the outer edges of the facing, except where it extends beyond the edge of the waist at the closing. Here, line the end of the facing which projects beyond the waist.

Gather the lower edge of the waist. The easiest way of finishing the waistline is with a casing and elastic. This does away with the troublesome finish of a grosgrain belt and placket closing.

Draw up the gather threads in the waist and lining just a little, throwing fullness at the sides of the fronts and back. The waistline must be kept sufficiently large so that the waist will go over the head when the closing is lapped and pinned at the bottom. Baste the waist to the lining at the bottom, leaving the lining free from the waist across hem.

Fig. (85) Joining the waist and skirt

Now you are ready for the skirt. In cottons or silk, French seam the joinings; in woolens make open seams. Gather the top of the skirt marking the center-front and center-back. Then, join the top of the skirt to the bottom of the waist and lining. (See Fig. 85.) Note that the raw edges of the seam come on the right side of the dress. Cover the raw edges with a bias fold as shown in Fig. 86. Leave an opening where the fold laps so an elastic can be inserted. Try on the dress to turn the hem at the bottom.

Fig. (86) The casing stitched over the raw edges

Bind the slash in the sleeve and make an open seam or a French seam at the sleeve joining, the same as in the rest of the dress. Put on the band cuff at the bottom, the same as a binding. Bind the sleeve to the armhole.

Making a Pattern for a Basque Dress: There is just one danger that beginners are apt to make in copying a basque style such as shown in Fig. 87—they make it too tight. Watch the fit. The so-called "basques" nowadays are really a semi-fitting waist.

Fig. (87) Basque frock of taffeta

You can use your block waist pattern in copying it. Your best plan will be to cut the pattern in cheap muslin or percale and fit it. Pin the dart at the side front, just where you want it, taking out enough goods to give the waist a square, boxy look. Also, fit the underarm seam, if necessary. Probably you will find that the back needs all the fullness it has.

Fig. (88) Diagram for making basque waist pattern

Then, rip apart this test garment and mark the same changes on the diagram, Fig. 88. Allow a lap and hem at the center-front. The collar is just a straight piece of goods, cut the length of the neck of the dress and wide enough to fold double.

Such a waist requires a full skirt to make it look its best. Usually, a gathered skirt is used. Fig. 89 shows a diagram for a gathered skirt. AC is the center-front and BD is the center-back. Decide the length you want the skirt at the center-back and apply this

Fig. (89) Diagram for gathered skirt patten

measurement along the line BD. Draw lines at right angles to line BD at the top and bottom over to the center-front, making the skirt as wide on the half as you desire. Measure down from the top on the center-front line one inch and from this point, draw a line at right angle to the center-front line, as line EF. From the center-back curve, a line which will touch this new line near the center-front. This gives you the new upper line.

The average woman requires a skirt that is an inch longer in the back than in the front. Of course, if a woman is unusually large across the back, she will need even a greater difference between the front and the back. Place the seam in the skirt, according to the width of your goods.

In cutting out the pattern, allow a seam at the top and a hem at the bottom.

Use your block tight fitting sleeve, allow a hem at the bottom.

Cutting a Basque Dress: Place the center-back of the waist pattern on the fold of the goods. Also the center-front of the skirt. It is immaterial whether you place the skirt seams at the sides or back.

An easy way of cutting the skirt, is to cut off even lengths of the goods, pin them together and then lay on the pattern, folding the goods to bring the seams where you desire. It is an easy matter to shape the top.

If the front edges of the waist are placed on the selvedge of the goods, they will not need a finish. Keep the center of the sleeve on the straight of the goods.

A basque dress is especially pretty in taffeta silk. It needs a firm texture and should never be made up in slinky goods, such as crepe silk. Broadcloth, fine serge, tricotine and such cottons as French gingham and fine chambray are also suitable for the style.

Making a Basque Dress: Stitch the darts in the fronts, first from the wrong sides. Then, turn the goods in the darts toward the front and stitch again on the right side of the goods, just in front of the darts.

Make French seams at the shoulder. Bind the sleeve to the armhole and close the sleeve and underarm seam in one stitching, making French seams in medium weight goods or open seams in heavier goods.

Turn and press the hems on the fronts. It is a matter of taste whether or not they are stitched.

Fold the collar double lengthwise and stitch across the ends.

Place the collar on the wrong side of the waist and stitch one of the raw edges to the neck edge of the waist. Turn the collar into its finished position, turn under the raw edge and stitch it in place or catch it down by hand.

Close the seams in the skirt, making French seams in medium goods or open seams in woolens. At the left side, where the underarm seam of the waist will come, make a placket, using a continuous facing to finish it. Gather the top of the skirt.

Join both the skirt and waist to a grosgrain belting, making the opening in the belt at the left underarm. First baste the skirt to the belt, then turn under the lower edge of the waist and baste it to the center of the belt. The waist will be free from the belt from the front closing to the underarm seam on the left side. Stitch around the waistline just above the bottom of the waist. Where, the waist is free from the belt, finish, it with a narrow facing.

Cover the raw edges of the top of the skirt from the center-front to the left underarm with a fold of the goods. Try on the dress to turn the hem at the bottom.

Fasten the belt with strong hooks and eyes and the waist to the belt across the left side with snaps. Finish the front closing with material loops and bottoms.

Making a Pattern for a Surplice Dress: Use your block waist pattern in making a pattern for a surplice waist that is shown in Fig. 90. The back you can use just as it is, adding seams of course.

Fig. (90) A Tie-on Surplice dress

You need both your fronts to work on, that is, you must have a diagram of the complete front. (See Fig. 91.) Place the block front on another piece of paper and mark around it, then turn it over, keeping the center-front on the same line and mark around it again. Line AB, Fig. 91, is the center-front.

Fig. (91) Diagram for front of surplice waist pattern

Decide the depth that you want the neck opening and mark a point, as point D, Fig. 91. Draw lines from the side of the neck to this point. Continue the neck line of the right front over to the left underarm seam as line CDE, Fig. 91. In tracing the pattern, for one of the fronts, trace along line CDE, EF, FBG, GH, the armhole HI and shoulder IC. In cutting the pattern, allow seams at all edges. Both fronts will be cut alike in the goods.

Use the front and back patterns to make the collar as described in making the collars for the Straight Hanging Dress.

Fig. (92) Diagram for short sleeve pattern

Use your shirtwaist sleeve pattern for the sleeve diagram as shown in Fig. 92. Mark where you want the lower edge of the sleeve to come as line AB, also where you want the bottom of the circular cuff to come, as line CD.

Place a piece of paper under the diagram and trace the outline of the cuff. Divide the cuff into equal parts, cut it apart and spread it at the bottom to add fullness, as shown in Fig. 93. Add seams at all edges in cutting out the cuff pattern. Also in cutting out the sleeve pattern, allow seams.

With such a waist, you can use either a straight gathered skirt or a two-piece skirt with a little fullness in the top. The type of the skirt depends on the goods that you are using and the figure of the person who is going to wear the dress. If the goods is thin and the woman slender, make a straight gathered skirt. If the woman is inclined to be stout or the goods is a little heavy make a two-piece pattern. The panels at the sides are just straight pieces, about eighteen inches wide.

Fig. (93) Spreading the cuff to make it circular

Cutting a Surplice Dress: Place the center-back of the waist on the fold of the goods. Also the center-back of the collar and the front of the skirt ought to be placed on the fold. It is a matter of taste whether you have a seam in the back of the skirt or cut it on the fold. In cutting waist front, place center-front on the straight of the goods. The center of the sleeves should be placed on the straight thread.

Medium weight materials are best to use for a surplice style. Taffeta silk, a medium or heavy crepe silk, charmeuse satin, chiffon velvet, broadcloth, velour, fine serge, wool voile, cotton voile, dotted swiss, organdie, gingham, chambray or any such texture will make up successfully in such a style.

Making a Surplice Dress: Close your shoulder seams first, using the seam that is best suited to the texture of the material. Then, sew on the collar. Baste along the front edge to prevent stretching.

Next, sew the cuff to the sleeve, and the sleeve to the armhole. Then, close the sleeve and underarm seams; leaving the right seam open, two and a half inches above the waist line. The sash end of the left side passes through this opening when the dress is on. (See Fig. 94.)

Fig. (94) At the right side the sash passes through the opening in the under arm seam

Join the sash ends to the ends of the front and finish the surplice edges of the waist, the sash ends and the bottom of the waist. Binding makes a neat finish for these edges.

Join the top of the skirt to a grosgrain belt that fastens at left side, just in front of the side panel. Tack the back of the waist over this belt.

Try on the dress to turn the hem at the bottom.

Making a Pattern for a Dance Frock: Even if you are planning just a little dance frock, such as Fig. 95, use your waist pattern as a foundation on which to work.

Fig. (95) Dance frock of tulle and taffeta

Here, too, cut your pattern in muslin and fit it to the lines you want the new waist to take. Rip the waist and mark these changes on the diagram.

(See Fig. 96.)

Of course, you do not want a dart in the front of your dance frock. You can eliminate it by dividing the portion from the dart to the underarm seam, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 96. Place another piece of paper under the diagram and trace sections 1, 2 and 3. Cut these out and place them on the diagram again, closing up the dart and throwing the fullness at the underarm. (See Fig. 97.)

Fig. (96) Diagram for front of waist pattern	Fig. (97) Diagram showing how to eliminate dart

Also mark where you want the top of the waist to come as line B. When the waist is made up, the fullness that is thrown in the underarm seam can be taken up in small pleats or gathered. In cutting pattern, allow seams at all edges, except center-front.

Mark the top of the waist on the back diagram, as shown in Fig. 98. In cutting out the back pattern, allow seams at all edges except the center-back.

Cut your lining pattern the same height but fit the front with a dart at the side-front as in the original diagram, Fig. 96.

Fig. (98) Diagram of back of bodice waist pattern

For your foundation skirt, you can use either a straight gathered skirt or a two-piece one with a little fullness at the top. Remember when there are overskirts, that the foundation ought to be scant. You need contrast in size between the foundation and the tunics. Make straight patterns for the tunics, the desired depth and divide the bottoms into equal back of bodice waist points.

Cutting a Dance Frock: Figs. 99 and 100 show the pattern placed on the goods.

You will have a pretty effect if you use taffeta and tulle or taffeta and chiffon for such a dress. Or, you might substitute a Spanish lace overskirt instead of the tulle tunics.

Making a Dance Frock: The bodice is made with a lining, usually of china silk or net. (See Fig. 101.) Take up the darts in the front of the lining and make an open seam in the lining at the right underarm. The dress closes at the left underarm. Join the lower edge of the lining to center of an inside belt of grosgrain belting.

Fig. (99) The skirt and bodice placed on the taffeta

Fig. (100) The tunics placed on the tulle

Fig. (101) The lining for the bodice

Make French seams in joining the drop skirt, leaving the left side seam open to placket depth. Finish the placket with a continuous facing. Gather the top of the drop skirt, try on the lining and adjust the skirt, pinning it to the center of the belt. Also tack the shoulder straps of ribbon in place.

Make French seams in joining the sections of the tunics. Leave the lower edges raw if they are tulle or net. Gather the tops of the tunics and try on the lining and drop skirt to adjust these. After removing the dress stitch around the waistline.

Gather the front and the back of the bodice at the underarm seams. Then close the right underarm seam, leaving it raw edge. Join bodice to front at left underarm and top of lining as shown in Fig. 102. Turn it into its finished position, roll under the lower edge and slip-stitch in place. Baste outside to lining at underarm at left back and finish with an extension. (See Fig. 103.) Finish closing with snaps and belt with hooks and eyes.

Copying Other Styles: Styles are so varied nowadays that it is impossible to give more than one example of each general type. However, do not consider the time wasted in making a diagram of a style which you do not want to make up in goods. It will give you the principles you need for perhaps some other style which you will want to cut in gingham or crepe, silk or serge.

Fig. (102) Sewing the outside to the lining

Now you have the essence of the knowledge. It's up to you. Go ahead and apply it in copying any style you see. With this lesson and the one on Pattern Making, you can make any pattern from the ground up, so to speak.

Fig. (103) Finishing the closing

Make sure before leaving this lesson that you understand why each step is taken. Be able to make each diagram without the book in front of you. It's the knowledge you have in your head that really counts. See also, if you can vary the designs a little. Practice yourself copying styles from your favorite fashion magazine.

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