A Voyage Round the World (Forster)/Book 1/Chapter 1
A
VOYAGE
ROUND THE
WORLD.
BOOK I.
CHAP.I.
Departure—Passage from Plymouth to Madeira—Description of that Island.
1772. June.
Thursday 11.A voyage to explore the high southern latitudes of our globe was resolved upon, soon after the return of the Endeavour in 1771. Two stout vessels, the Resolution and the Adventure, were fitted as King's sloops for that purpose, and the command of them given to Capt. James Cook and Capt. Tobias Furneaux. On the 11th of June, 1772, my father and myself were appointed to embark in this expedition, in order to collect, describe, and draw the objects of natural history which we might expect to meet with during our course. We prepared with the utmost alacrity for this arduous undertaking, and in the space of nine daysSaturday 20. sent all our baggage on board the Resolution, then at Sheerness, but which sailed from thence for Plymouth on the 22d of June.Monday 22.
We left London on the 26th, and in two Days reached Plymouth, where the Resolution was not yet arrived. The 1st of July, we went on board the Augusta Yacht, and waited on the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord Commissioner for executing the office of High Admiral. His Lordship expecting the Resolution to come into Plymouth Sound that day, desired us to be on board of her, between the hours of five and six in the evening. However, to our great disappointment, she did not appear, and his Lordship left Plymouth the next morning.
July.
Friday 3.The 3d of July early, we saw the Resolution lying in the Sound, where she had arrived the night before. Captain Cook purposed to stay here eight or ten days, and gave orders, that some necessary shelves should be fixed up in our cabins previous to our reception on board. The desire of letting pass no opportunity for the improvement of science, and for our own instruction, prompted us to pass these leisure hours in visiting the tin mines in Cornwall. Having satisfied our curiosity, and being both highly entertainedWednesday 8, and much instructed by the sight of the rich extensive works at Poldyce and Kenwyn, we returned to Plymouth on the 8th of July.
Saturday 11.On Saturday the 11th, we went on board the Resolution sloop, which was now to sail with the first fair wind. The next day it blew a fresh gale;Sunday 12. and my father, walking on the quarter-deck, observed our vessel to alter her position considerably in regard to the Adventure (which was to accompany us on our voyage) and to a mast-ship, both at anchor in the Sound; at the same time taking notice that she approached the rocks under the castle. He immediately communicated his apprehensions to Mr. Gilbert, the master, who happened to be upon deck with him. The master found, that the vessel having been moored to one of the transport buoys in the Sound, the buoy, not intended to support such a violent strain, had broke from its ground tackle, and was adrift together with the sloop. In an instant all hands were on deck, the sails spread, and the cables cleared. We shot past the Adventure and mast-ship, and came to an anchor, after escaping the most imminent danger of being dashed against the rocks under the fort. Our seamen looked upon this fortunate event, as an omen favourable to the success of the voyage, while we could not avoid reflecting on the tutelar guidance of Divine Providence, which had thus manifested itself in a critical moment; that might easily have put an effectual stop to our projects[1]. We shall, in the course of this history, find frequent instances of impending destruction, where all human help would have been ineffectual, if our better fortune had not prevailed under the superior direction of Him, without whose knowledge not a single hair falls from our heads. We are ever ready to give due applause and do full justice to the great skill and good conduct of our able circumnavigators, but we cannot avoid attributing every thing to its proper fource, and that especially to a higher power, which human art, though aided by effrontery and irreligion, dares not vindicate to itself.
Monday 13.Early on Monday the 13th, we set sail from Plymouth Sound, in company with the Adventure. I turned a parting look on the fertile hills of England, and gave way to the natural emotions of affection which that prospect awakened; till the beauty of the morning, and the novelty of gliding through the smooth water attracted my attention, and dispersed the gloominess of former ideas. We soon passed by Eddistone lighthouse, a lofty and well-contrived tower, which is of the greatest advantage to navigation and commerce. It was impossible to look at it, without shuddering with apprehensions for the lonely keepers, who are often obliged to pass three months there, deprived of all communication with the main-land. The fate of Winstanley, who was really crushed by the downfall of a former structure, which he himself had built on this rock, and the vibrations of the present tower, when winds and waves assail it, must give them strong fears of a dreadful and sudden end.
In proportion as we stood off shore, the wind encreased, the billows rose higher, and the vessel rolled violently from side to side. Those who were not used to the sea, nay some of the oldest mariners, were affected by the sea-sickness, in various degrees of violence. It was of different duration with different persons, and after it had continued three days amongst us, we found the greatest relief from red port wine mulled, with spices and sugar.
Monday 20.On the 20th, we fell in with Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spain; the natives call it Ortiguera, and it was probably the Promontorium Trileucum of the ancients. The country hereabouts is hilly; where the naked rock appears it is white, and the tops of the mountains are covered with wood. I also observed some corn-fields almost ripe, and some spots which seemed to be covered with heath. The eagerness with which every body gazed at this land, powerfully persuaded me, that mankind were not meant to be amphibious animals, and that of course our present situation was an unnatural one; an idea that seems to have occurred to Horace, when he says,
Prudens oceano dissociabili
Terras; si tamen impiæ
Divide the waters from the land,
If daring ships and men profane,
Wednesday 22.On the 22d, we saw the lighthouse near Corunna, or, as our sailors absurdly call it, the Groyn. It was perfectly calm, the water smooth as a mirror, and the hilly prospect very agreeably varied by corn-fields, inclosures, small hamlets, and gentlemen's seats, every thing conspiring to banish the remains of the sea-sickness entirely from amongst us, and to bring back that chearfulness which could not well keep company with empty stomachs and a tempestuous sea. In the evening we were near a small tartan, which we took to be a fishing vessel from the Spanish coast; and in that persuasion, a boat was hoisted out and sent towards her, in order, if possible, to purchase some fresh fish. In going thither we observed the whole surface of the sea every where covered with myriads of little crabs, not above an inch in diameter, which we found were of the species called cancer depurator by Linnæus. The little vessel proved to be a French tartan from Marseilles, of about 100 tons burden, freighted with flour for Ferrol and Corunna. The people in her begged for a small supply of fresh water, having been driven far from their course by contrary winds during two months, by which means this necessary article had been exhausted above a fortnight ago, and they were reduced to live upon bread and a little wine. Whilst they continued in this distressful situation, they had met with several ships at sea, and especially with several Spanish men of war, though none had been humane enough to alleviate their sufferings. When the officer who commanded our boat heard this account, he sent their empty barrels on board our vessel to be filled with fresh water, and their eyes sparkled with the liveliest expression of joy when they received it. They thanked Heaven and us, and rejoiced that they should now be able to light their fire again, and be comforted with some boiled provisions, after their long abstinence. So true is it, that a man with a feeling humane heart, may often, at a very cheap rate, indulge the inclination to assist his fellow-creatures.
Thursday 23.The next afternoon, three Spanish men of war passed us, standing in for Ferrol. One of them seemed to be a 74 gun ship, and the two others carried about 60 guns each. The sternmost first hoisted English colours, but when we shewed ours, she hauled them down, fired a gun to leeward, and hoisted the Spanish ensign. Soon after she fired a shot at the Adventure; but as we kept standing on, the Spaniard put about, and fired another shot just a-head of her. In consequence of this, our vessel brought to, and the Adventure now seemed only to follow our example. The Spaniard then hailed the Adventure in English, and asked "what frigate that was a-head," (meaning our sloop); and having been satisfied in that particular, he would not answer a question of the same nature, which was put to him, but always replied, "I wish you a good voyage." We continued our course, after a scene so humiliating to the masters of the sea, and passed Cape Finisterre during night.
Several porpesses passed us on the 25th, all swimming against the wind, which had been north-easterly ever since we had left Cape Finisterre. At night the sea appeared luminous, particularly the tops of the waves and part of the ship's wake, which were illuminated by a mass of pure light: but, independent of that, there appeared numerous little sparks infinitely brighter, than any other part of this phænomenon.
Tuesday 28.On the 28th, at six of the clock in the morning, we discovered Porto-Santo, which is about five or six leagues long, barren and thinly inhabited. It has only one Villa or town, of the same name, situated on the eastern side, in a valley which is entirely cultivated, and appeared to have a fine verdure from the numerous vineyards it contains. This little island is under the orders of the governor of Madeira, and the number of its inhabitants amounts to about seven hundred.
Soon after we made Madeira and the Ilhas Desertas, corruptly called the Deserters by our seamen. The town of Santa Cruz in Madeira was abreast of us at six in the afternoon. The mountains are here intersected by numerous deep glens and vallies. On the sloping ground we observed several country-houses pleasantly situated amidst surrounding vineyards and lofty cypresses, which give the country altogether a romantic appearance. We were towed to the road of Funchal in a perfect calm, and came to an anchor in the dark.
Wednesday 29.Early on the 29th, we were agreeably surprised with the picturesque appearance of the city of Funchal, which is built round the bay, on the gentle ascent of the first hills, in form of an amphitheatre. All its public and private buildings are by this means set off to advantage. They are in general entirely white, many of them two stories high, and covered with low roofs, from whence they derive that elegant eastern stile, and that simplicity, of which our narrow buildings with steep roofs, and numerous stacks of chimnies are utterly destitute. On the sea side are several batteries and platforms with cannon. An old castle, which commands the road, is situated on the top of a steep black rock, surrounded by the sea at high-water, and called by the English Loo-rock. On a neighbouring eminence above the town there is another, called San Joao do Pico, or St. John's castle. The hills beyond the town serve to complete the beauty of the landscape, being covered with vineyards, inclosures, plantations, and groves, interspersed with country-houses and several churches. The whole seemed to raise the idea of a fairy-garden, and enabled us to form some conception of the hanging gardens of queen Semiramis.
About seven o'clock a boat came off to us called the Pratique-boat, having on board a Capitan do Sal, who is one of the two Guarda-Mores of the board of health, appointed to regulate the quarantine of such ships as come from the coast of Barbary, the Arches, and other parts suspected of infectious distempers. This gentleman enquired into the state of health of our ship's company, and the place we came from, and returned on shore with satisfactory information on this subject.
After breakfast we landed, and went with the captains to the house of Mr. Loughnan, a British merchant, who supplied the king's ships, as contractor, with all the necessaries. The consul, Mr. Murray, lately appointed, was not yet arrived, but Mr. Loughnan received us with such hospitality and elegance, as do honour to himself and to the nation in general.
The city is far from answering the expectations which may be formed from its appearance towards the road. Its streets are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty; the houses are built of freestone, or of brick, but they are dark, and only a few of the best, belonging to English merchants or principal inhabitants, are provided with glass-windows; all the others have a kind of lattice work in their stead, which hangs on hinges and may be lifted up occasionally. The ground floors are mostly appropriated for the use of servants, for shops, and store-houses.
The churches and monasteries are very plain buildings, without any display of the architectonic art: their inside exhibits a striking want of taste; the little light which is admitted into them, serving only to display heaps of tinsel ornaments, arranged in a manner which is truely Gothic. The convent of Franciscan friars is clean and spacious, but their gardens seemed not to be kept in the best order. The nuns of Santa Clara politely received us at their grate, but afterwards deputed some old women, to offer the artificial flowers of their manufacture for sale.
We walked with Mr. Loughnan to his country-seat, which is situated on the hills, about a mile from the city. We there met an agreeable company of the principal British merchants established at Madeira. The captains returned on board in the evening, but we accepted of Mr. Loughnan's obliging offer of his house during our short stay.
Our excursions began the next morning, and were continued on the following day. At five o'clock in the morningFriday 31. we went upwards along the course of a stream, to the interior hilly part of the country. About one o'clock in the afternoon we came to a chesnut grove, somewhat below the highest summit of the island, having walked about six miles from Mr. Loughnan's house. The air was here remarkably cooler than below, and a fine breeze contributed to its temperature. We now engaged a negro to become our conductor, and after a walk of at least an hour and a half, we returned to our hospitable mansion.
August.
Saturday 1.The next day we prepared for our departure. It was with regret that I left this delightful spot, and such generous friends, who know how to enjoy the unspeakable pleasure of communicating happiness to their fellow-citizens of the world. My heart still preserves those sentiments of gratitude and esteem, which made me loth to part from hence, and to resign myself to the common fate of travellers. I was however, pleased to find British hospitality existing abroad, which Smollet could no longer trace in England[2].
Before I leave this island, I shall offer such remarks, as I had an opportunity of collecting during my stay; and I am induced to believe they will prove acceptable, as they were communicated by sensible Englishmen, who had been inhabitants of Madeira for many years, and are therefore of the best authority. I am aware indeed, that an account of Madeira may by some be looked upon as a superfluous work; but if, upon a candid perusal, it is found to contain such observations as have not yet appeared in the numerous journals of navigators, I hope I shall not need a farther apology. It is very natural to overlook that which is near home, and as it were within our reach, especially when the mind looks forward, on discoveries which it reckons more important, in proportion as they are more remote.
The island of Madeira is about 55 English miles long, and ten miles broad, and was first discovered on the 2d of July, in the year 1419, by Joao Gonzales Zarco, there being no historical foundation for the fabulous report of its discovery by one Machin an Englishman. It is divided into two capitanias, named Funchal and Maxico, from the towns of those names. The former contains two judicatures, viz. Funchal and Calhetta, the latter being a town with the title of a county, belonging to the family of Castello Melhor. The second capitania likewise comprehends two judicatures, viz, Maxico (read Mashico) and San Vicente.
Funchal is the only cidade or city in this island, which has also seven villas or towns; of which there are four, Calhetta, Camara de Lobos, Ribiera braba, and Ponta de Sol in the capitania of Funchal, which is divided into twenty-six parishes. The other three are in the capitania of Maxico, which consist of seventeen parishes; these towns are called Maxico, San Vicente, and Santa Cruz.
The governor is at the head of all the civil and military departments of this island, of Porto-Santo, the Salvages, and the Ilhas Desertas, which last only contain the temporary huts of some fishermen, who resort thither in pursuit of their business. At the time when I was at Madeira, the governor was Don Joao Antonio de Saa Pereira. He was esteemed a man of good sense and temper, but rather reserved and cautious.
The law department is under the corregidor, who is appointed by the king of Portugal, commonly sent from Lisbon, and holds his place during the king's pleasure. All causes come to him from inferior courts by appeal. Each judicature has a senate, and a Juiz or judge, whom they choose, presides over them. At Funchal he is called, Juiz da Fora, and in the absence, or after the death of the corregidor, acts as his deputy. The foreign merchants elect their own judge, called the Providor, who is at the same time, collector of the king's customs and revenues, which amount in all to about one hundred and twenty thousand pounds sterling. Far the greatest part of this sum is applied towards the salaries of civil and military officers, the pay of troops, and the maintenance of public buildings. This revenue arises, first from the tenth of all the produce of this island belonging to the king, by virtue of his office as grand master of the order of Christ; secondly, from ten per cent. duties laid on all imports, provisions excepted; and lastly, from the eleven per cent. charged on all exports.
The island has but one company of regular soldiers of a hundred men: the rest of the military force is a militia consisting of three thousand men, divided into companies, each commanded by a captain, who has one lieutenant under him, and one ensign. There is no pay given to either the private men, or the officers of this militia, and yet their places are much sought after, on account of the rank which they communicate. These troops are embodied once a year, and exercised during one month. All the military are commanded by the Serjeante Mór. The governor has two Capitanos de Sal about him, who do duty as aides-de-camp.
The secular priests on the island are about twelve hundred, many of whom are employed as private tutors. Since the expulsion of the Jesuits, no regular public school is to be found here, unless we except a seminary where a priest, appointed for that purpose, instructs and educates ten students at the king's expence. These wear a red cloak over the usual black gown, worn by ordinary students. All those who intend to go into orders, are obliged to qualify themselves by studying in the university of Coimbra, lately re-established in Portugal. There is also a dean and chapter at Madeira, with a bishop at their head, whose income is considerably greater than the governor's; it consists of one hundred and ten pipes of wine, and of forty muys of wheat, each containing twenty-four bushels; which amounts in common years to three thousand pounds sterling. Here are likewise sixty or seventy Franciscan friars, in four monasteries, one of which is at Funchal. About three hundred nuns live on the island, in four convents, of the orders of Merci, Sta. Clara, Incarnaçao, and Bom Jesus. Those of the last-mentioned institution may marry whenever they choose, and leave their monastery.
In the year 1768, the inhabitants living in the forty-three parishes of Madeira, amounted to 63,913, of whom there were 31,341 males, and 32,572 females. But in that year 5243 persons died, and no more than 2198 children were born; so that the number of the dead exceeded that of the born by 3045. It is highly probable that some epidemical distemper carried off so disproportionate a number in that year, as the island would shortly be entirely depopulated, if the mortality were always equal to this. Another circumstance concurs to strengthen this supposition, namely, the excellence of the climate. The weather is in general mild and temperate: In summer the heat is very moderate on the higher parts of the island, whither the better sort of people retire for that season; and in winter the snow remains there for several days, whilst it is never known to continue above a day or two in the lower parts. The accuracy of the numbers of dead and born, may however be entirely depended upon, as a complete list extracted from the parish books was procured for us, from the governor's secretary.
The common people of this island are of a tawny colour, and well shaped, though they have large feet, owing perhaps to the efforts they are obliged to make in climbing the craggy paths of this mountainous country. Their faces are oblong, their eyes dark; their black hair naturally falls in ringlets, and begins to crisp in some individuals, which may perhaps be owing to intermarriages with negroes; in general they are hard featured, but not disagreeable. Their women are too frequently ill-favoured, and want the florid complexion, which, when united to a pleasing assemblage of regular features, gives our Northern fair ones the superiority over all their sex. They are small, have prominent cheek-bones, large feet, an ungraceful gait, and the colour of the darkest brunette. The just proportions of their body, the fine form of their hands, and their large, lively eyes, seem in some measure to compensate for those defects. The labouring men in summer, wear linen trowsers, a coarse shirt, a large hat, and boots; some had a short jacket made of cloth, and a long cloak, which they sometimes carried over their arm. The women wear a petticoat, and a short corselet or jacket, closely fitting their shape, which is a simple, and often not inelegant dress. They have also a short, but wide cloak, and those that are unmarried, tie their hair on the crown of their head, on which they wear no covering.
The country people are exceeding sober and frugal; their diet in general consisting of bread and onions, or other roots, and little animal food. However, they avoid eating tripe, or any offals, because it is proverbially said of a very poor man, "he is reduced to eat tripe." Their common drink is water, or an infusion on the remaining rind or skin of the grape (after it has passed through the wine-press) which when fermented, acquires some tartness and acidity, but cannot be kept very long. The wine for which the island is so famous, and which their own hands prepare, seldom if ever regales them.
Their principal occupation is the planting and raising of vines, but as that branch of agriculture requires little attendance during the greatest part of the year, they naturally incline to idleness. The warmth of the climate, which renders great provision against the inclemencies of weather unnecessary, and the ease with which the cravings of appetite are satisfied, must tend to indolence, wherever the regulations of the legislature do not counteract it, by endeavouring with the prospect of encreasing happiness, to infuse the spirit of industry. It seems the Portuguese government does not pursue the proper methods against this dangerous lethargy of the state. They have lately ordered the plantation of olive-trees here, on such spots as are too dry and barren to bear vines; but they have not thought of giving temporary assistance to the labourers, and have offered no premium by which these might be induced to conquer their reluctance to innovations, and aversion to labour.
The vineyards are held only on an annual tenure, and the farmer reaps but four tenths of the produce, since four other tenths are paid in kind to the owner of the land, one tenth to the king, and one to the clergy. Such small profits, joined to the thought of toiling merely for the advantage of others, if improvements were attempted, entirely preclude the hopes of a future increase. Oppressed as they are, they have however preserved a high degree of chearfulness, and contentment; their labours are commonly alleviated with songs, and in the evening they assemble from different cottages, to dance to the drowsy music of a guittar.
The inhabitants of the towns are more ill-favoured than the country people, and often pale and lean. The men wear French cloaths, commonly black, which do not seem to fit them, and have been in fashion in the polite world about half a century ago. Their ladies are delicate, and have agreeable features; but the characteristic jealousy of the men still locks them up, and deprives them of a happiness which the country women, amidst all their distresses, enjoy. Many of the better people, are a sort of petite noblesse, which we would call gentry, whose genealogical pride makes them unsociable and ignorant, and causes a ridiculous affectation of gravity. The landed property is in the hands of a few ancient families, who live at Funchal, and in the various towns on the island.
Madeira consists of one large mountain, whose branches rise every where from the sea towards the centre of the isle, converging to the summit, in the midst of which, I was told, is a depression or excavation, called the Val by the inhabitants, always covered with a fresh and delicate herbage. The stones on the isle, which we examined, seemed to have been in the fire, were full of holes, and of a blackish colour; in short, the greater part of them were lava. A few of them were of the kind which the Derbyshire miners call dunstone. The soil of the whole island is a tarras mixed with some particles of clay, lime, and sand, and has much the same appearance as some earths we since found on the isle of Ascension. From this circumstance, and from the excavation of the summit of the mountain, I am induced to suppose, that in some remote period, a volcano has produced the lava, and the ochreous particles, and that the Val was formerly its crater. At first sight of Madeira I was of a different opinion; but the black Loo-rock, the cliff on which St. John's castle lands, the nature of the soil and stones, and the situation of the Val, convinced me, that the whole had formerly undergone a violent change by fire.
Many brooks and small rivulets descend from the summits in deep chasms or glens, which separate the various parts of the isle. We could not however perceive any plains mentioned by others[3], through which the waters would probably have taken their course, if any such had existed. The beds of the brooks are in some places covered with stones of all sizes, carried down from the higher parts by the violence of winter rains or floods of melted snow. The water is conducted by wears and channels into the vineyards, where each proprietor has the use of it for a certain time; some being allowed to keep a constant supply of it, some to use it thrice, others twice, and others only once a week. As the heat of the climate renders this supply of water to the vineyards absolutely necessary, it is not without great expence that a new vineyard can be planted; for the maintenance of which, the owners must purchase water at a high price, from those who are constantly supplied, and are thus enabled to spare some of it.
Wherever a level piece of ground can be contrived in the higher hills, the natives make plantations of eddoes (arum esculentum, Linn.) enclosed by a kind of dyke to cause a stagnation, as that plant succeeds best in swampy ground. Its leaves serve as food for hogs, and the country people use the roots for their own nourishment.
The sweet potatoe (convolvulus batatas) is planted for the same purpose, and makes a principal article of diet; together with chesnuts, which grow in extensive woods, on the higher parts of the island, where the vine will not thrive. Wheat and barley are likewise sown, especially in spots where the vines are decaying through age, or where they are newly planted. But the crops do not produce above three months provisions, and the inhabitants are therefore obliged to have recourse to other food, besides importing considerable quantities of corn from North-America in exchange for wine. The want of manure, and the inactivity of the people, are in some measure the causes of this disadvantage; but supposing husbandry to be carried to its perfection here, I believe they could not raise corn sufficient for their consumption. They make their threshing-floors of a circular form, in a corner of the field, which is cleared and beaten solid for the purpose. The sheaves are laid round about it, and a square board stuck full of sharp flints below, is dragged over them by a pair of oxen, the driver getting on it to encrease its weight. This machine cuts the straw as if it had been chopped, and frees the grain from the husk, from which it is afterwards separated.
The great produce of Madeira is the wine, from which it has acquired fame and support. Where the soil, exposure, and supply of water will admit of it, the vine is cultivated. One or more walks, about a yard or two wide, intersect each vineyard, and are included by stone-walls two feet high. Along these walks, which are arched over with laths about seven feet high, they erect wooden pillars at regular distances, to support a lattice-work of bamboos, which slopes down from both sides of the walk, till it is only a foot and a half or two feet high, in which elevation it extends over the whole vineyard. The vines are in this manner supported from the ground, and the people have room to root out the weeds which spring up between them. In the season of the vintage they creep under this lattice-work, cut off the grapes, and lay them into baskets: some bunches of these grapes I saw, which weighed six pounds and upwards. This method of keeping the ground clean and moist, and ripening the grapes in the shade, contributes to give the Madeira wines that excellent flavour and body for which they are remarkable. The owners of vineyards are however obliged to allot a certain spot of ground for the growth of bamboos; for the lattice-work cannot be made without them; and I was told some vineyards lay quite neglected for want of this useful reed.
The wines are not all of equal goodness, and consequently of different prices. The best, made of a vine imported from Candia, by order of the Infante of Portugal, Don Henry, is called Madeira Malmsey, a pipe of which cannot be bought on the spot for less than 40 or 42 l. sterling. It is an exceeding rich sweet wine, and is only made in a small quantity. The next sort is a dry wine, such as is exported for the London market, at 30 or 31 l. sterling the pipe. Inferior sorts for the East India, West India, and North-American markets, fell at 28, 25, and 20 l. sterling. About thirty thousand pipes, upon a mean, are made every year, each containing one hundred and ten gallons. About thirteen thousand pipes of the better sorts are exported, and all the rest is made into brandy for the Brazils, converted into vinegar, or consumed at home.
The enclosures of the vineyards consist of walls, and hedges of prickly pear, pomegranates, myrtles, brambles, and wild roses. The gardens produce peaches, apricots, quinces, apples, pears, walnuts, chesnuts, and many other European fruits; together with now and then some tropical plants, such as bananas, goavas, and pine apples.
All the common domestic animals of Europe are likewise found at Madeira; and their mutton and beef, though small, is very well tasted. Their horses are small, but sure-footed; and with great agility climb the difficult paths, which are the only means of communication in the country. They have no wheel-carriages of any kind; but in the town they use a sort of drays or sledges, formed of two pieces of plank joined by cross pieces, which make an acute angle before; these are drawn by oxen, and are used to transport casks of wine, and other heavy goods, to and from the warehouses.
The animals of the feathered tribe, which live wild here, are more numerous than the wild quadrupeds; there being only the common grey rabbet here, as a representative of the last-mentioned class. We observed the sparrow-hawk, (falco nisus); several crows, (corvus corone); magpies, (corvus pica); sky and wood-larks, (alauda arvensis, & arborea); starlings, (sturnus vulgaris); yellow hammers, (emberiza citrinella); common and mountain sparrows, (fringilla domestica & montana), yellow wagtails and robin red-breasts, (motacilla flava & rubecula); and wild pigeons, of which we could not determine the species. We likewise saw the house-swallow and swift, (hirundo rustica & apus); and some gentlemen of the British factory assured us they had also seen the martin, (h. urbica). This last genus of birds lives here all the winter, and only disappears for a few days in very cold weather, retiring to clifts and crevices of the rocks, and returning on the first fair sunny day. The red-legged partridge, (tetrao rufus), is likewise common in the interior parts of the isle, where it is not much disturbed. In Mr. Loughnan's aviary I saw waxbills, (loxia astrild), chaffinches, goldfinches, yellowfinches, and canary-birds, (fringilla coelebs, carduelis, butyracea, & canaria); all which had been caught upon this island. Tame birds, such as turkies, geese, ducks, and hens, are very rare, which is perhaps owing to the scarcity of corn.
There are no snakes whatsoever in Madeira; but, all the houses, vineyards, and gardens swarm with lizards. The friars of one of the convents complained, that these vermin destroyed the fruit in their garden; they had therefore placed a brass kettle in the ground to catch them, as they are constantly running about in quest of food. In this manner they daily caught hundreds, which could not get out on account of the smooth sides of the kettle, but were forced to perish.
The shores of Madeira, and of the neighbouring Salvages and Desertas, are not without fish; but as they are not in plenty enough for the rigid observance of Lent, pickled herrings are brought from Gothenburg in English bottoms, and salted cod from New-York and other American ports, to supply the deficiency.
We found a few insects here, and might perhaps have collected more, if our stay had been of longer duration; those we met with were of known sorts, and in no great variety. On this occasion I shall mention a general remark, which ought to be applied to all the islands we have touched at during the course of our voyage. Quadrupeds, amphibious reptiles, and insects, are not numerous in islands, at some distance from a continent, and the first are not to be met with at all, unless they were formerly transported thither by men. Fishes and birds, which are able to pass through water or air, are more frequent, and in greater variety. Continents, on the other hand, are rich in the above-mentioned classes of animals, as well as in those of birds and fishes, which are more universal. Africa, which we visited during this voyage, in a few weeks supplied us with a great variety of quadrupeds, reptiles, and insects, whilst all the other lands where we touched, afforded no new discoveries in those classes.
- ↑ That it is not uncommon for ships, under the same circumstances as the Resolution sloop, to take considerable damage, appears from what happened to the Aldborough, May 19, 1776, which broke from the buoys in the same manner, but drove ashore on Drake's island, and was bulged to pieces.
- ↑ Vide Humphry Clinker, vol. I. page 102.
- ↑ See an Account of the Voyages undertaken by the order of his Majesty, and successively performed by the Captains Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Cook.—Compiled by Dr. Hawkesworth, Vol. II. p. 7.