Bohemian Section at the Austrian Exhibition, Earl's Court London 1906/Guide to the Kingdom of Bohemia
„Breathes there the man, with soul so dead,
Who never to himself hath said
This is my own, my native land!“
GUIDE TO THE KINGDOM OF BOHEMIA.
PRACTICAL HINTS FOR BRITISH AND AMERICAN TRAVELLERS.
The guide books published for the benefit of foreigners visiting the baths and spas of Bohemia, such as Teplice, Karlovy Vary, Františkovy Lázně and Mariánské Lázně (Marienbad), as a rule, give a fair amount of general information relating to places on the direct line of route from and to London, Paris, Berlin, Vienna, Petersburg and Trieste; along with hints as to excursions on the Rhine, Bavaria, the Alps and the Bohemian Switzerland; but they completely ignore the country lying quite close to the fashionable resorts. There, the inhabitants are of Bohemian Slavonic nationality who dwell in a land full of attractions for all lovers of nature; where the people with their simple and quaint manners and customs wearing their pretty national costumes, ever present to strangers an interesting series of living pictures reminiscent of by-gone days. The country all around is rich in historic associations and its scenery is, most beautiful and varied; looking at these charming landscapes you realize that
„Nature’s voice is sweet
Wherever heard; her works, wherever seen,
Are might and beauty to the mind and eye.“
And this peculiarly charming field of interest is not situated in some part almost inaccessible, or even badly served in the matter of railway facilities. It is in the centre of Europe surrounded by such well-known places as Munich, Budapest, Krakov, Vratislav (Breslau), and Dresden, and from all of which there is a good train service, and from none of the places mentioned can it be said to be a tedious journey to any point in Bohemia to which we desire to introduce the reader.
Visitors to Carlsbad or any of the places patronised for their mineral waters and baths, ought not to miss the opportunity of seeing PRAGUE („Praha“ in Bohemian) the capital of the kingdom and the centre of Bohemian national and intellectual life. A description of Prague and its inhabitants and information as to the best way to view its many attractions, is given in another part, it is our special duty to direction as to the best way of getting from any of the mineral water centres to Prague and back.
1st, to the South of the Kingdom the scene of so many important historical events in connection with the Hussite wars. In this part there is to be seen some of the most famous seats of the Bohemian nobility. To visitors interested in pisciculture, this region can show the latest methods successfully adopted in fish-culture; the living evidence of which is to be seen in the many well-stocked fish-ponds common to this part of the country.
2nd, into the West, the land of romantic beauty, and through the virgin forests of the Šumava (Bohemian Forest) to the seats of the Chods; the old Bohemian borderers and hereditary guardians of the frontier who like their neighbours of Pilsen have preserved their characteristic National Costume.
3nd, Next, to the East of Bohemia beneath the Krkonoše (Riesengebirge) into the fertile „golden Strip“ (Zlatý pruh) and along by the river Labe (Elbe).
4th. On to the North, through the vineyards of Mělník and Roudnice to the marvels of the Bohemian Switzerland and the Krkonoše.
Travelling over this land with its wealth of natural beauty and rich historic interest, the visitor may well ask the question, why has such a field been to long neglected by the tourist who only requires to see the country, to appreciate its peculiar charms with enthusiasm and acknowwledge that it is well occasionally to leave the ordinary beaten track of the holiday-maker and enjoy the freshness and novelty to be found in this romantic land.
ROUTE I.
FROM KARLOVY VARY (KARLSBAD) TO PRAGUE.
During the summer season three express trains run every day in from 4 to 4½ hours, by the Buštěhradská dráha to Prague. Fares: 1st Class, 23.20 crowns 2nd Class 14.40 crowns. The railway keeps close to the banks of the Oharka or Ohře (Eger) to Žatec (Saaz). Not far from Karlovy Vary on the left is Sedlec where there is an ancient church much frequented by pilgrims. Approaching Velichovice-Vojhovice, the picturesque Valley of the Oharka opens up and presents a succession of lovely views as the train speeds along. Before reaching Hanenstein Varta (27 km), the extensive castle which give the name to the place, is seen towering majestically, on the left, leaving this behind we have a beautiful view of the Valley called Peklo (Hell), and of the Castle Himmelstern which show itself on the same side. We now come to Klášterec (Klösterle 41 km) a large industrial town chiefly concerned with the manufacture of China-ware. Next we reach Kadaň (47 km) a busy centre of glove trade. There are five churches among them there is one founded by the knights of Malta in 1183, it is now the decanal church of the district. The beautiful market-place is well worthy of notice. (From here, it is very easy to make a pleasant excursion to the interesting ruins of the castle of Hasistein.) We now go on to Chomutov (Komotau) (60 km). This is a city of considerable importance, having quite a variety of manufactures, paper-making, iron-rolling; the manufacture of Mannemann’s tubes, production of wads, coffee substitutes, chemicals etc. There are several important collieries within a short distance, which in itself is a great advantage to the manufacturers. Of architectural and historical interest are such churches as St. Mary’s Assumption (the decanal church) with the tomb of the eminent Bohemian Humanist Bohuslav Hasištejnský z Lobkovic (1460—1510), and St. Ignatius’ church with its monastery founded by the Jesuits. The townhall was formerly the seat of the German knights. In 1421, the town was burnt by the Hussites. At a distance of two miles is the Alum-lake in which fish-life is impossible. Leaving Chomutov we enter the district Rakovník famous for its culture of the best Bohemian hops, and soon arrive at Žatec (Saaz. 83 km). This is an industrial town and the centre of the hop trade. The old decanal church of St. Mary’s assumption founded 1206, and six others founded before the 14th century are worthy of attention, and in front of the town-hall in the Market-place there is a fine column of the Holy Virgin. Here the Oharka is spanned by the first suspension bridge erected in Bohemia (1820).
Leaving the river Oharka we pass through a fertile tract of country into the great coal-basin of Kladno (157 km). The town has a fine new town-hall, a castle built in 1740, and in the Market-place a handsome column of the Holy Virgin, by Dienzenhofer.
At 176 km, Liboc is reached with its hunting seat and deer-park Hvězda (,,Star*), the house being in the form of a sixrayed star) situated on the Bilá Hora (White mountain) where the army of the nobility was defeated in 1620 by imperial troops and the independance of the Bohemian crown territories was almost entirely lost. Soon the top of the iron tower on the Petřín comes into view and within a few minutes the train glides into the State railway station of Prague
An alternative route can he taken by changing at Chomutov on to a branch of the Ústecko-Teplická dráha (Aussig-Teplitz R.) for Most (Brüx) and by the train from Most to Prague.
The geological formation of the country around Most is very interesting, some of the hills are largely composed of basalt and phonolite and rise abruptly to a considerable height. The town possesses a fine Gothic church built in 1517, by the renowned Bohemian architect Beneš z Loun (1454–1534). The pews th oughout the building are all beautifully carved.
The adjacent pits produce a brown coal used in the local industries which are chiefly concerned with sugar making, brewing and distilling. This brown coal is largely used all over the country and exported in great quantities to Germany.
The next town calling for special notice is Louny, a place of historic note on the right bank of the Oharka. Its chief buildings are, the Church of St. Nicolas’ of Gothic design by Beneš z Loun, St. Mary’s and St. Peter’s. The old town gate to Žatec is in a good state of preservation. The town Louny is the birth-place of the great Bohemian poet Jaroslav Vrchlický.
It is an easy trip by railway to Ročov an Augustinian monastery attached to which there is a very fine Church.
Continuing our journey, we pass through a fertile country with great hop-fields and see on the left Peruc with its Castle, historic fountain and ancient oaks. 93 km farther and we reach Slaný, the place which in olden time was sole source of the country’s salt supply. The buildings most worthy of notice are; the decanal church of St.Gothard, founded in the 13 th. century, having a baptismal font (1519) St. Laurence’s chapel, a 14 th. century building, the town-hal, a structure of the 18 th. century, and a Franciscan Monastery of the 17 th.
Not far from the town there was erected in 1664, a sepulchre in imitation of the Holy sepulchre of Jerusalem.
Near to Kovary on the ridge of a slope, stands the church of St. Peter and St. Paul, founded by Prince Spytihněv I., 1055—1061, a round structure in roman style, and occupies the site on which formerly stood Budeč the school attended by Wenceslaus Patron Saint. Farther on through the valley of the Zákolanský brook we catch sight of the tower and walls of the castle Okoř now in ruins and from thence an hour’s ride brings us to the Emperor Francis Joseph’s station in Prague.
SECOND EXCURSION TO THE SOUTH VIA TÁBOR AND BUDĚJOVICE.
Two express trains per day run on this route. Leaving Francis Joseph’s station we immediately enter a tunnel 1141 m. in length and on emerging from it we see many pretty villas and gardens covering the slope on our left. Not far (9 km.) from Hostivař on a great bare plain are to be seen two monuments erected in memory of the Prussian general Schwerin killed in the battle of 1757. The country near Říčany (21 km.) grows more interesting, the river Sázava winds its way beneath the railway track, soon we see the ruins of Hláska an out-post of the larger ruined castle Dubá of which we catch a passing glance as it peeps from its rocky height through the fir wood.
We cross the river Sázava and the ruins of the castle Mrač attract our attention and next we find ourselves entering Benešov (52 km.) a thriving industrial town which in the time of the Hussite wars was almost totally destroyed by fire (1420).
In 1448, Carvajal the papal legate fled from Prague taking with him the Compactata, was arrested here and had to deliver up what he had in his possession. It was also the place of meeting selected by the Diet on several occasions as in 1451, when George of Poděbrad and Aeneas Sylvius (afterwards pope Pius II.) were present. And in 1473 a meeting was held in the ruined Minorits Church of which there are now but scanty remains. On this occasion Queen Joanna of Rožmital, widow of George, made a fiery patriotic speech to the representatives of Bohemia.
Of some interest also are the college of the piarists, with the churches of St. Anne and St. Nicolas’; in the latter there is a well executed panel painting of the Holy Virgin. Two miles west of Benešov is the castle Konopiště, the seat of the arch-duke Ferdinand d’Este. It has a rich collection of ancient arms and a noble gallery of paintings.
Bystřice is passed (57 km), near to it on the left can be seen the renaissance castle Leštno; and beyond this (67 km) we come to Votice near to which station are the ruins of the castle Martinice; and next (105 km) Tábor is reached. The town stands above a large sheet of water; the „Jordan“ which like a great mirror reflects back the ancient walls. The town was founded in 1420 by the followers of Huss, and afterwards fortified by Žižka. The antiquity of the place is evidenced in its short and narrow thoroughfares; many of them being mere lanes. There are few towns that can equal it in historic interest. It was the first communistic corporation in mediaeval Europe. Amongst the more remarkable of its buildings, are the decanal church with its high tower from the top of which a grand panoramic view of the surrounding country may be enjoyed. The old town-hall with a well arranged Historical and Ethnographical museum.
The principal trading interests of Tábor are connected with the distilleries, breweries and a large tobacco and cigar manufactury. Visitors making a sojourn here can be certain of comfortable quarters at the hotel „Šetunský“.
By the new electric railway, the old town of Bechyně is reached in 1 hour and 15 minutes. Conspicuous is its castle towering high on a great rock, and near at hand is a Franciscan monastery. The church is architecturally very interesting and has several good pictures by the eminent Bohemian painter Škréta (1604—74). Near the town is a large deer-park and close to it Libušiny Lázně (Libusa’s bath) which enjoys a high reputation. A pleasant walk may be enjoyed in the picturesque wooded valley of the Lužnice—otherwise called Pintovka through which it is an easy stroll to the castle Příběnice near to which visitors may rest and refresh at the excellent new restaurant.
Other excursions are easily arranged to the ruins of the castle of Choustník from which a magnificent view of the country may be had, or by Měšice to the ruins of the castle Kozí Hrádek where John Huss found a friendly shelter after his excommunication, and here he passed the time in writing and preaching to his followers.
Near to the little town of Cheynov is a remarkable cave, it is the largest in Bohemia and of granite formation. Six miles to the East of Tábor is Ratibořice, famous for its silver mines.
Continuing our journey to the South, we soon catch sight of the high church tower of Soběslav (124 km) which dominates the surrounding country. The ancient fortress which of old repelled the war-like foe, now peacefully opens its gates; and the present garrison accords a kindly greeting to each friendly invader who is received as a welcome guest for the fortress of old is the boarding-house of to day, and the proud castle of the past is the brewery of the present. Tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis. The industries of the neighbourhood range from hosiery and silk wares to the working of turf pits and the mining of iron are.
A run of a few minutes brings us to the station at Veselí (131 km), here the river Nežárka empties itself into the Lužnice. At this point the railway has three branches. One direct to Vienna, another by Budějovice (Budweis) to Linz and the third to Moravia.
From here it is an advantage to arrange a few pleasant trips before continuing our journey to Budějovice. One we would especially recommend involves a journey of only 27 km, to Jindřichův Hradec (Neuhaus). It is one of the most beautiful towns in South East Bohemia, with many modern features; but also possessing some fine old buildings. The castle dates from the 12th century and contains a rich archive and picture gallery. There is here a fine church, and the grand old stronghold founded in 1220, standing high above the river commands a most extensive view of the country with its varied landscape of field-forest and lakes.
Its chief manufactures are hosiery ware and starch.
There is also a brewery and distillery.
Another short trip from Veselí is by the Vienna route to Třeboň (Wittingau) a distance of 23 km. Before reaching the station the train runs on a dam dividing the largest of the Bohemian ponds which covers an area of 720·97 ha and is on the estate of the Lords of Schwarzenberg. This pond was created by the direction of William of Rosenberg in the years 1584 to 1590, for the purpose of drawing off along with the other ponds, the flood-waters of the Lužnice and Nežárka and to keep them at a comparatively low level. Fish-breeding has long been carried on at these ponds, the operation of fishing in the artificial lakes takes place only every third year when of course there is a big catch from the carefully preserved waters. The town has a fine old decanal gothic church which in former times was a monastery of the Augustin order, it contains several pictures by Škréta. The castle of the princes of Schwarzenberg well repays a visit, it is in the renaissance style and altogether presents a very fine appearance. Visitors are by permission of the director allowed to see the renowned archives of the house of Schwarzenberg.
Near to the pond on the top of a hill stands the very handsome crypt of the princely family. From this hill-top the country can be surveyed for miles around.
On the main-line to Budějovice (Budweis) and just beyond Veselí, the great pond Horusický is passed and the country becomes somewhat hilly and the landscape more varied and increasing in beauty as we journey on to Zámostí where we see a lovely panorama spreading out at our feet and we observe the wide plain of Budějovice, bordered on the South and West by the great forests of the Šumava and glittering in different parts, we see a great number of ponds reflecting the beauties of nature like so many giant mirrors, and overlooking the whole like some great protector, stands the lordly castle of {{lang|cs|Hluboká (Frauenberg).
An hour’s ride takes the traveller from Veselí to Budějovice (Budweis 38 km) the scene of the animated strife between the Bohemian majority excluded from the local government and the german minority wielding a power and using an influence incosistent with the rule of a free country where the will of the majority should prevail. This important City is the seat of a bishop, has many schools, government offices, a busy industrial centre having breweries, tobacco factory and several establishments doing an extensive trade in the manufacture of lead pencils.
We take up our abode in one of the comfortable Bohemian hotels „U tří Kohoutů“ (The „three cocks“), or „U města Budějovice“ (City of Budějovice) where in addition to the usual hospitalities we can be furnished with all the necessary local information.
In the course of our ramble through the city, the churches first claim our attention. St. Mary’s a gothic building of the 13th century, with a monastery of the Dominicans to which we gain access through a fine cloister. There are a number of fine pictures to be seen in this church. St. Nicolas’ cathedral originally in the roman style was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 16 century, it possesses no artistic merits. The high church tower provides a means for visitors to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the city and its environs. Two smaller churches and a chapel of the Holy Trinity completes the list of sacred edifices.
The old market-place is a spacious quadrangle having arcades on all sides. The town-hall and museum are on the west side. One of the special adornments of the place is known as Samson’s fountain. An alley of large lime-trees provides a cool shade for a summer promenade.
Excursions to Hluboká (Frauenberg 9 km) may be made by either rail or road, 30 minutes is occupied by the train journey, and one hour by carriage. The castle was founded in the 13th century and in the 18th became the property of the princes of Schwarzenberg, it stands on a rock 84 m, above the Vltava. The design is the Tudor in imitation of the favourite Royal residence the famous Windsor castle in England. It has 11 turrets, 140 halls and rooms containing a priceless collection of arts treasures representing different periods, amongst them are several works by Van Dyk, Makart and other famous Masters. The library contains a very valuable store of books, and every room is an exhibition of splendour and good taste.
To prevent disappointment it has to be noted that strangers are not admitted when the princes are in residence, their presence in the castle is indicated by the hoisting of flags on the main towers. At a mile distant from the castle is the hunting seat Obora (deer-park) attacked to which is an interesting Museum of forestry and game, it has also several pictures by Hamilton. Crossing the first pond by boat, we reach the ruins of Hrádek („The small castle“) an ancient hunting seat of Charles IV.
Another excursion by rail which ought not to be omitted, is to Krumlov (Krumau 31 km) a town on the Vltava, its situation is strikingly picturesque and there is much in it to interest visitors historically and in the excellence of its architectural features.
Its chief industries are concerned with the manufacture of paper, cloth, cellulose, beer and rope.
The stately castle of Krumlov is of course the charming attraction, dominating the whole town, and from its commanding position on a high rock on the left bank of the Vltava, it forms quite a majestic land-mark.
The first lords of Krumlov were of the family of Vítek-(Vítkovici) who was famous in 12th century, it afterwards came into the possession of Henry of Rosenberg in 1290, and eventually it passed by inheritance to the family of the Schwarzenbergs in 1719.
The several buildings within this extensive castle, are of various periods and contain altogether more than 300 apartments; amongst them are many large halls and magnificent rooms, a rich archive and splendid picture gallery.
Of the five chapels, St. George’s is the most important and interesting. It is built in the gothic style of the 14th. century. In a subterranean, dungeon of this castle, Wenceslaus IV., son of Charles IV., was imprisoned for a short time by the Bohemian nobles who were dissatisfied with his manner of government.
Visitors desirous of a pleasant walk in the park can enter by the bridge which leads to it from the castle, the natural beauty of the grounds is enhanced by the statuary with which it is adorned, and the numerous fishponds like miniature lakes, contribute to the freshness and beauty of the scene.
The other noteworthy buildings of this historic town; are, the decanal church of St. Vitus founded in the 14th. but altered considerably in the 15th. century. It is in the gothic style. Here are to be seen the tombs of the Rosenbergs. The monastery of the Minorits also of the 14th. century. A gothic Church Corporis Christi and the Holy Virgin (with fine painting) and the ancient nunnery of St. Clara founded in 1361.
In the market-place there is a remarkable old house mentioned in 1309, as being then the property of the abbey of Zlatá koruna (Golden crown), there two, is the building which in ancient times was a College of the Jesuits and which has been converted into a very comfortable hotel—„The Rose“ where travellers can count upon having all their wants supplied promptly and at reasonable charges.
EXCURSIONS FROM KRUMLOV.
To those who care to view nature’s beauties from the heights and do not object to the labour involved in the climb, can ascend Klet (Schöninger) which rises to a height of 1080 m, where on clear day an enchanting view of the southern part of the Šumava can be enjoyed.
As it is well to reserve one’s strength for the operation of climbing, it is best to take a carriage to a point near to the place selected for the ascent.
A nice four mile’s walk can be taken from Krumlov to Zlatá koruna („Golden crown“).
The splendid church was founded in 1263 by Přemysl Otokar II., as a thanksgiving for the great victory over the Magyars near to Kressenbrunn in 1260. Attached to the church was a monastery of the Cistercian order. The structure was allowed to get into a ruinous condition and was rebuilt in 1315 by the Bohemian lord Bavor z Bavorova. The monastery was destroyed by the Hussites in 1420, but the monks having acquired some wealth in the 17th. century, when the damaged church was thoroughly repaired. The monastery was abolished in 1785, and its land passed into the possession of the Princes of Schwarzenberg. The building is now the parish church. Worthy of observation are the gothic architectural relics and the monuments erected in memory of the founder Přemysl Otakar II., and lord Bavor.
Another enjoyable drive can be taken along the Vltava by a road leading through shady forests to the old town of Rožmberk 20 km, distant from Krumlov. In addition to the Gothic church of St. Nicolas’ founded in the 13th.century, there is the great castle towering above on its steep and rocky site. On the entrance gates are the heads of the last three bears shot in the neighbouring forests. In the court there is a statue of Peter Vok z Rožmberka. The halls and rooms throughout the castle contain a valuable collection of archaeological and artistic interest. The new castle is surrounded by a beautiful park. St. Thomas’ Hill from where an excellent view can be obtained can be reached by the high bridge leading from the castle. Five miles from Rožmberk is Vyšší Brod (Hohenfurth) with an old interesting abbey of the Cistercian order founded in 1259 by Peter of Rožmberk. The other buildings claiming attention are, the gothic church of St. Mary, the chapter-hall, library, the museum with collection of antiquities and the treasury.
The surrounding country is what may be truly described as romantic in its beauty of hill and dale, river and forest; all is suiting to charm the eye of the beholder! One of the gems which ought not to be missed is to be seen by visiting Čertova Stěna (Devil's Wall) only a mile and a half distant, where in a narrow gorge the Vltava in madlike fury dashes over the immense boulders.
After feasting on these beautiful scenes we return by carriage to Cartle (Zartlesdorf) thence, by express to Budějovice, Tábor, Prague.
III. THE SOUTHWEST AND WEST OF BOHEMIA.
The second tour will lead us into the South-Western districts of Bohemia, along the Šumava to the West and return to Prague.
Starting from Francis Joseph’s station, after passing through a tunnel, we see on our right the picturesque abbey Karlov, and in crossing the Vitava we obtain a beautiful view of Prague with the Hradčany in the background, while at the left; Vyšehrad the ancient seat of the Bohemian princes reflects its sombre slopes in the river
All along by the railway on to Chuchle—a favourite holiday resort of the people of Prague, and to Radotín near the banks of the Berounka or Mže (Beraun or Mies) extend the summer dwellings of the wealthy families of Prague,—through Černosice, Všenory and Dobřichovice.
A quarter of an hour later, still keeping close to the Mže, we come in sight of the noble castle of Karlův Týn standing high up on our right on an isolated rock of jasper. We leave the station (35 km from Prague) cross the river by an iron bridge and enter Budňany, glance at St. P. Palmatin’s church (1356) and ascend to the most famous and historicallly important castle of Bohemia, the monument of the ancient power and glory of the kingdom. It was founded by Charles IV., in 1348. The building operations were under the direction of Mathias of Arras, and when finished was consecrated in 1357, by the archbishop Ernest of Pardubic. It was intended to be an impregnable treasury for the safe keeping the royal regalia, crown jewels, important documents and holy relics of the Bohemian kingdom and the German empire. No expense was spared in its construction. The situation of the castle, in the centre of five surrounding hills is very impressive and picturesque some years ago, a systematic restoration of the decayed castle was begun, and now the sight of the royal residence of olden time with its reception hall, the church of the Holy Virgin and St. Catherines chapel; and above all, the strong central tower with the chapel of the Holy Cross, where the regalia und jewels were kept, awake the most vivid interest. All the walls of the Sanctuaries were decorated with polished stones (mostly from Turnov in Bohemia) inlaid in gilt stucco; the ceiling of the chapel of the Holy gross, represented the starred sky—with sun and moon. The devastating effects of successive wars, are even now not entirely obliterated. A well 547m in depth situated on the western edge of the rock is the source of the castle’s water supply.
It will interest English visitors to know that the castle had a garrison of auxiliary troops from England during the short reign of Frederic the Palatin (1619—1620). All the glory of the castle departed in 1625, when Ferdinand I, and Maria Theresia endowed the new Institute of noble ladies in the Hradčany in Prague, with the landed property of the castle.
The next station is Beroun an old town situated in a broad valley; bordered at the northern side by the range of hills called Brdy. The decanal church of St. James, first claims our attention. It was founded in 1353, there are several pictures by Molitor and a baptismal font of pewter by Flamming. In the church of the Holy Virgin, founded 1519, are to be seen pictures by Barbieri. Part of the 14th. century fortifications with bastions and towers are still standing.
From Beroun we can make an easy trip to the old castle of Křivoklát (Pürglitz), travelling by a branch railway through the romantic valley of the Mže (29 km). This castle is known to have been in existence previous to 1110, and we learn that it was subsequentby rebuilt. The contemplation of this fine old structure never fails to arouse the interest of the tourist; not only on account of its architecture but in consequence of the stirring historical incidents with which it is associated and the names the thoughts recall, of the eminent personages who at different periods have been resident within its walls. Here for a time dwelt Blanche de Valois, wife of Charles IV, also the beautiful Philippine Welser, wife of the archduke Ferdinand, these and many others found a happy and congenial abode in this place, but on the other side of the castle, other and unwilling guests were lodged in underground dungeons, amongst those who suffered for their opinions; were, John Augusta, bishop of the Bohemian Brethern, William of Lobkovic and others.
The gothic hall dates from the reign of Wenceslaus IV. That of the knights, and the chapel with its beautiful groined ceiling from the period of the dynasty of the Jagellons and Wenceslaus II. Noteworthy too are the stained glass windows, pictures, and the baptismal font in pewter erected in 1603.
We now return to the main-line which we again leave at Zdice to turn to the South. On the way and not far from Beroun, is the great iron foundry and metal manufactory at Králův Dvůr (King’s Court), the hunting lodge of Wenceslaus IV.
At a distance of 28 km, from Zdice, is the famous old silver mining town Příbram.
The annual yield of the mines averages about 178 q of silver and a great quantity of lead and litharge. By applying at the office of the works, visitors are granted permission to view the mines and foundries. The mine known as St. Vojtěch’s and Mary’s has a shaft 1100 m in depth. The town itself is of a modern type and is the resort of many pilgrims on their way to visit the Svatá Hora [Holy Mountain] where there is a famous shrine of the Holy Virgin.
Amongst the most interesting of the buildings is the ancient castle, in the past it was the residence of the archbishops, it is now occupied as a Mining Academy. In the town-hall are to be seen two fine ancient hymn-books [kancionály] along with some admirable 16 century miniatures. The hotels „U císaře Rakouského“ [Emperor of Austria] and the „Splíchal“ afford comfortable accommodation, the proprietor of the first-named undertakes arrangements for pleasant excursions by auto-mobile.
From Příbram [36 km] we go on to Čimelice, from whence the post takes us to the castle Orlík situated on the ridge of a high steep rock above the Vltava. Looking from the balcony an admirable view is enjoyed of the strikingly picturesque country with its wide valley, and winding river, the well kept park surrounded by extensive forests, such a scene as charms the tourist and fills the artist with rapture.
The castle museum belongs to the princes of Schwarzenberg, it exhibits a number of antiquities and trophies from Hungary and Italy.
From Orlík a trip should be made to Zvíkov (Klingenberg) formerly a royal castle and the residence of Wenceslaus I. (1230—1253), it is now the property of the Schwarzenbergs. It is situated on the ridge of a hill dividing the rivers Vltava and Otava near to the point of junction. The castle has a number of frescoes dating from the 15th. und 16th. centuries. Visitors who ascend to the top of the tower are well repaid for their labour in the enjoyment of the wide panoramic view it presents.
The next halting place is Písek (89 km from Zdice). It is a large town having many good schools, a Municipal Museum, a horse stud under the control of the military authorities Industrial concerns such as tobacco factory, two breweries and a gun-making establishment.
There is an ancient royal castle, a remarkable old bridge with statues; this crosses the Otava,–the townhall and the decanal church complete the list of buildings most worthy of notice.
From Písek to (13 km) Protivín (with its great brewery and brickfields), here we change the route for that of Budějovice-Plzeň to enable us to see the districts of the Šumava.
Passing Vodňany (5 km), we see a church founded in 1415. We reach Husinec the birthplace of John Huss the famous religious reformer the contemporary and follower of Wycliffe (1364—1415) and who was burnt at Constanz on the 6th. July 1415. The house in which Huss was born is marked with a memorial tablet.
From Husinec we can go either by rail, or on foot along the Blánice to (6 km) Prachatice, an interesting town which has a very quaint appearance having preserved its mediaeval character generally, especially in the crooked streets near the remains of the ancient ramparts, and shown also in examples of early architecture adorned with frescoes, sgrafittoes, gables etc.
The old gothic church of St. James’ (14th. century) was the scene of several religious tragedies. The townhall shows a remarkably fine and picturesque front.
The hotel „Národní dům“ (National house) is in every respect an excellent temporary home for those who desire to make a sojourn for the purpose of making excursions to such places as Lázně sv. Markéty („the Margarets’ bath“) ½ hour, Dobrá voda (Good water bath“), ½ hour, from whence a pleasant walk may be taken by way of the ruins of the castle „Husa“ (founded 1341, destroyed 1439), to the town of Volary.
Another delightful trip is to Vimperk, an old but busy town having a large glass-making trade. It has a gothic church founded in the 14th. century, and an ancient castle above the town.
Starting from Vimperk we make our way to mount Boubín (1358 m, in height), the ascent can be made comfortably in three hours. Climbers are well rewarded when they reach the top and enjoy the extensive view.
Resuming our journey from Vimperk by rail, we again get on to the main line at-Strakonice (37 km). This old town is situated on the banks of the Otava and its somewhat insular position is caused by the division of the river, and so it presents a picture of peculiar beauty The old castle founded in the 13th. century, is now the residence of the grand-prior of the knights of Malta, and has many excellent architectural features of early times, with its gothic cloisters, and porch in the roman style. St. George’s chapel next comes under our notice and the gothic church of St. Procopius with pictures by Brandl and Škréta. On the isle between the Otava and the Volyňka rises the high tower Rumpal the former prison of the castle. The old gothic church in the town, founded in 1583, has an antique altorelievo and a marble cross.
In modern times the town has become quite renowned for its manufacture of red turkish caps called „Fez“ after the town in Morocco where these caps are commonly supposed to be made.
Further on (17 km) is Horažďovice. There is not much to detain us here, it is a quiet place with a nice old townhall, and its ancient fortifications; particularly the Prague gate with a commanding tower, are in a good state of preservation. In the vicinity are St. Anne’s bath and the ruins of the old castle Prácheň which in the 11th century was the seat of the authorities of the shire bearing its name. It has been permitted to remain in ruins since the 16th century. From Horažďovice to Sušice (Schüttenhofen, 20 km). This is an industrial town having quite a variety in its manufactures, which include the products of several large match factories, paper mills, glass-works, wood work and beer.
From here it is easy to arrange a pleasant trip to Kašperské Hory, an old country town in the vicinity of which gold, sapphires, garnets and other precious stones were found in plenty in the past; now, wooden toys are the staple industry.
Near this town there is the ruin of the castle Karlsberg to which visitors repair for the purpose of ascending the high tower to enjoy a view of the mountainous country.
We now go from Sušice to Klatovy (36 km) passing through a picturesque district. This is also quite a busy trading centre with two breweries, a machine-making factory, foundry and linenware manufactory. It has several fine churches, St. Mary’s (decanal) was founded in the 11th century and rebuilt in the 13th. There is another church of the same name, it was formerly a college of the Jesuits, in it are several fine frescoes and a picture by Škréta. The town-hall with its high tower called „the black tower“ (Černá věž), the catacombs and the well arranged town museum provide the visitor with the means by which he can pass several pleasant hours.
From Klatovy we turn to the South, pass Janovice (8 km) where there is the fine castle and park of count Stadion, and arrive at Nýrsko (Neuern, 16 km) the centre of a great lace industry and feather-trade. Within a short distance are the ruins of castle Bairek.
The journey presents to the traveller a continuous succession of the most picturesque and enchanting views. For a short time there is a break in the picture as we enter a tunnel 1745 m long at 838 m, above sea-level, and having passed through, we soon arrive at Špičák (Spitzberg). Here it is convenient for the purpose of arranging our excursions to make the pension Prokop our home for the time of our sojourn. For the drives carriages can be provided by our host. The finest trips are; to the Černé Jezero (Black lake), occupying three hours going and returning. To the Čertovo Jezero (Devil’s lake). To the Jezerní Stěna Zwergeck and along the Černé Jezero and return in five hours; or by the Černé Jezero to the rapids in the Klammerloch to the Jezerní Hora (Seeberg), then by the Donnerwinkel to the station Hamry for Eisenstein (5 to 6 hours). In this case it is advisable to engage a guide.
Other desirable trips are; to the Pancíř (Panzer)—Můstek, Brennet and to the station at Zelená Lhota (4 hours) and return by train.
Next we would go to the top of the Javor (Arber), the highest mountain of the Šumava and located in Bavaria (1458 m) and return along the Javorské Jezero (Arber See) n 3 or 3½ hours.
Having enjoyed the invigorating air of the country and feasted on its beauties, we can return to Plzeň; but on the way we must break the journey and change carriages at Janovice for the purpose of visiting the ancient town of Domažlice (Taus) situated near the Western frontier of the kingdom, the centre of the „Chods“, the hereditary borderers of the Bohemian people who have preserved to the present day all the ancient characteristics of the guardians of the borderland; manners, customs and dress as in the olden time—it is known that they performed their patriotic duty as early as the year 973. In Domažlice stands monument-like, the interesting castle of the Chods (Khod=Walker).
The decanal church with its high tower and the town museum rich in Exhibits of articles of peculiar interest as they are of the far-past heathen times, and were found in the neighbourhood, are worthy of the attention of visitors.
Taking up our quarters at the „Hotel Černý kůň“ we can arrange for a nice excursion from Domažlice to the mountain Čerchov (1037 m) which we can ascend, survey the country and enjoy a rest with the hospitalities of hotel located there, „Pasovský’s hut“ There is also a watch tower to be seen here,—a very proper place for such a structure.
It was near to Domažlice that the Crusaders from all parts of Europe were summoned to assemble and crush the Hussite heretics. They were commanded by the dukes of Saxony and Bavaria and the Elector of Brandenburg, for them the battle was disastrous, for in the presence of the papal legate, cardinal Julius Cesarini, they were defeated and put to flight.
It will interest visitors from Gt. Britain to know, that about six miles to the North of Domažlice near to the village of Roudná, there is a gold mine worked by an English company.
From Domažlice we return to Prague. The country between Domažlice and Plzeň, is somewhat flat, but there is the charm of novelty imparted to the scene by the picturesque native costumes of the people, of course this is most marked on festive occasions and market-days at Plzeň and throughout the district. The hotel Waldek is a most comfortable house and conveniently situated.
Plzeň (Pilsen) is a very important industrial town of 67,500 inhabitants—the metropolis of the West of Bohemia. It was founded by Wenceslaus II., about 1290, the decanal church of St. Bartholomew is of the same date, while the statue of the Holy Virgin is of the 14th century. The Franciscan monastery has a gothic chapel of St. Barbara (it has some old frescoes), and on the north side of the great rectangular place stands the old town-hall built in renaissance style in the 16th century In the past, it was occassionally the meeting-place of the diet. Of modern buildings worthy of notice, we would mention; the historical and industrial museum, the new Theatre and the citizen’s club-house. The name of Plzeň (Pilsen) is known throughout the world, to a great extent on account of its famous beer. There are several large breweries that worthily uphold the good name of the town by the production of a high-class quality of beer; but, the brewery generally acknowledged to stand in the front rank is that of Plzeňský měšťanský pivovar.
There are also several distilleries. The other prominent industries are: Škoda’s large iron-works, machine and gun factory, pottery (China and other kinds), paper-mills and furniture manufactories.
Bohemia’s first printing press was established at Plzeň in 1468, amongst the earliest works produced were: The History of Troy The New Testament (1445 and 1481), and the first almanac (1498).
Within a short distance of Plzeň, is the favourite Lochotín park and mineral baths.
From Plzeň we go to Rokycany (23 km). In this romantic neighbourhood, a number of celtic remains have been discovered with lines of the old fortifications etc.
We next come to Holoubkov (32 km), this is a finely wooded district. Industry here is chiefly centred in several extensive iron-works and foundries.
Next comes the castle Zbirov (42 km), and Hořovice (53 km), a town on a picturesque slope. Its decanal church of St. Aegidius dates from the 14th. century. Here too is the castle of the Prince of Hanau.
To the North are the ruins of the castle Točník once a favourite seat of Wenceslaus IV.
From Hořovice we go right on to Prague (116 km) viâ Beroun and Karlův Týn.
Railway fares for a circular ticket (including the route described). FIRST-CLASS: 82.18 crowns, SECOND CLASS: 54·77 crowns.
THE EAST OF BOHEMIA.
Leaving Prague by the Emperor Francis Joseph’s station, our route leads to Čerčany (43 km), from which point the train travels eastward through the beautiful valley of the river Sázava.
Near to Čerčany the ruin of Hláska is seen on the leſt,—then we come to the scanty remains of the castle Stará Dubá (14th. century), and we observe the village of Chocerady on the right bank of the river with the castle Komorní Hrádek, on the opposite slope.
Of greater historical interest is the little town of Sázava where in 1302, Prince Oldřich founded an abbey for holding Divine service in the slavonic language. Its first abbot was St. Prokopius. The slavonic lithurgy was continued until the 14th. century. There are only a few gothic arches of the original building standing, but they are sufficient to enable us to form an opinion as to the former magnificence of this grand old abbey.
At Rataje (24 km), a branch leads to Šternberg; a small town with an old castle of the counts Šternberg 1242, and which even now, is in a good state of preservation. The chapel and the isolated dungeon are profoundly interesting. The view of the river and valley is from here,—most charming.
From Šternberg we go on to Kolín (50 km). This is an industrial town with its breweries, distilleries, sugar and succory factories, manufactory for the production of chemical manures, machine and tool-making establishments etc.
The beautiful church of St. Bartholomew founded in the 14th. century, has a fine choir, pictures by Brandl, and contains the tombs of the noble families of Ruthard and Vartenberk. Not far off, there is St. Johns, the former parish church with its ornamentation of fine frescoes.
Kolín is the junction of the State and the Austrian North-Western railway, by which we travel to (11 km) Sedlic-Kutná Hora.
At Sedlec, our attention is first arrested by the old abbey of the Cistercian monks founded in 1143. The church, a splendid gothic building dating from 1320, ranks amongst the largest ecclesiastical structures, it contains several master-pieces by Brandl. The building has been thoroughly repaired.
The monastery, at one time occupied by 300 priests and 200 friars, was abolished by Joseph II., in 1783, and is now a tobacco factory.
The adjacent ossuary chapel of the church-yard with its wall decoriations, lustres, chandeliers, altar-pieces coats-of-arms etc., composed of human bones and skulls, is certainly unique.
A twelve minute’s journey by train, takes us from Sedlec to the old mining town of Kutná Hora, a place with a great past. At one time it ranked second only to Prague, it was known as a place of considerable importance as early as 1276, and its inhabitants have always figured prominently in the stirring events recorded in Bohemian history.
The mines which in the past yielded so much,—are now abandoned, in the days when the output was large and valuable, the whole community shared in the prosperity of the time,—both art and commerce were benefited by the wealth-producing ores, the place became the treasury of the kingdom; but to-day, its ancient buildings only remain as witnesses of its former greatness.
The splendid churches,—among them the imposing St. Barbara’s, built by the eminent artists, Matěj Rejsek (1489), Beneš z Loun (1512—24) and carried on in subsequent years by Nicol Parler and Vlach, although still unfinished in consequence of difficulties resulting from the later troublous times, it is the chief monument of the high civilization of the town. The church is decorated with antique frescoes, and has several fine paintings and exquisitely carved stalls. Passing a bridge with 13 statues, we come to a building; formerly a college of the Jesuits but now used as a barrack, next we see the gothic archi-decanal church of St. James founded in the 14th. century which contains a highly artistic carving in linden wood, this work represents the mother of Zebedee’s children appealing to Jesus on their behalf. In the suburb, we have St. Mary’s with its handsome pulpit. St. John’s of Nepomuk and St. Trinity’s completes our list of churches.
Of the other public buildings, the most interesting is the Vlašský dvůr (Italian court), it is of the 13th. century, the principal mint of the country and the official residence of the master of the mint. It has been the abode of kings and the meeting-place of parliaments, where king Wladislaus Jagiello was elected, and the decree of Kutná Hora was issued in 1409, by Wenceslaus IV., to secure for Bohemians supremacy at their University in Prague, and which led the Germans to found the University at Leipzig.
The Vlašský dvůr is now the town-hall, and the ancient town-hall called Kamenný dům (Stone-house) has been transformed into a very interesting local museum.
The tube-well constructed in 1495, is an elaborate gothic building carved in Bohemian sand-stone and is a fine work of its kind.
Near the Vlašský dvůr is the monument erected in honour of Karel Havlíček who was exiled under Bach’s era of absolutism in Austria (in the sixtieth of the 19th century), he was a patriotic and fearless defender of Bohemian National rights, and as a journalist, worthy to rank amongst the most brilliant contributors to an enligthened and free press.
The ancient fortress Lorec is like an old soldier who has given up his war-like vocation to become a member of the peace society, Lorec no longer repels, it invites, it is not seeking to destroy, it aims at „fortifying the inner man“—in short, it is now a very excellent restaurant! There is here in connection with this place of refreshment a fine park and shooting range.
The industrial interests of the place are of a musical kind, organs (Tuček) and a variety of other instruments are produced in large quantities.
HOTEL: HAŠEK, „U ČERNÉHO KONĚ“ (Black Horse).
HOTEL: BILSKÝ, „U ZLATÉ HUSY“ (Golden Goose).
From Kutná Hora we go to Čáslav (6 km). The old church at Čáslav dates from the 14th century, and though the building calls for no particular attention it shares with the town the interest attached to the fact that it was here that the great patriot—Žižka, leader of the Hussites was when blind, suffered death by fire in 1424. His tomb was destroyed in 1623 by order of William of Vřesovice a commissioner of the antireformation. There is here a fine protestant church, a museum and a theatre. There is now a new monument in the town in honour of the Hussite’s great champion Žižka.
A very enjoyable excursion can be made from Čáslav to the castle Žleby (6 km by rail). This is a noble building in the English gothic, it is the property of Prince Auersperg. The castle is a veritable museum of antiquities, with its old stained glass, armour, pictures by Rubens, Dürer, Makart and other masters. There is an elegant knights hall. A splendid view of the country is to be had from the balcony.
From Žleb to Třemošnice by the local railway (9 km) and a walk of two miles brings us to the ruins of the castle Lichnice situated amidst beautiful surroundings. Near to Lichnice are the baths of Vápený Podol and the noted marble quarries.
Returning to Čáslav we start for {lang|cs|Německý Brod}} (57 km) (German ferry: „Deutsch Brod“). The church is a very ancient structure the original gothic design of which has been somewhat spoilt by later restorations. The noteworthy feature of the town-hall is its antique clock.
From Německý Brod we return by another line to Chrudim (81 km). HOTEL: BÍDA. Carriage drives can be arranged for with the proprietor of the Hotel. In 993, this place was the seat of the county government. Břetislav I died in the castle in 1050. St. Mary’s church is a venerable gothic building of the 13th century, the other churches are: St. Catherine’s—an interesting old structure, St. Michael’s, and that of the Holy Cross. There is a monastery of Capucine friars. The old house in the renaissance style, was the residence of Matthew Mydlář the public executioner who beheaded the 27 lords and other leaders of the protestant party who were condemned to death in 1621.
In the Market-place there is a beautiful fountain. The remains of the old fortifications are in a good state of preservation.
Amongst the notable men born in Chrudim, we may mention the names of: the famous lawyer Victor Cornelius ze Všehrd, and the inventor of the screw propeller, Joseph Ressel.
The industrial concerns are: a brewery, distilleries, a sugar and malt factory and a manufactory of machines, tools etc.
At a distance of two miles from Chrudim is Slatiňany; with the castle and beautiful park of prince Auersperg.
From Chrudim we pass by Rosice with its large sugar factory, to Pardubice (12 km) a prosperous town situated on a fertile plain. It is the junction of two great railways and the centre of great industrial activity, having a large petroleum refinery, a succory and candle factories, two breweries and a distillery etc.
Of historical interest are: the old castle of the lords of Pernštýn with a gothic chapel. St. Bartholomew’s decanal church founded in 1226, with pictures by Brandl. The „Zelená brána“ (Green gate) from 1538. Market-place with decorated houses, and the monument erected in honour of the brothers Veverka the inventors of the plough called „ruchadlo“. HOTEL: VESELKA.
At a short distance from the town there is an isolated basaltic rock Kunětická Hora, it is of volcanic origin, on the top are the picturesque ruins of an old castle from which we can get a good view. At the foot of the rock the river Loučná joins the Labe (Elbe).
Our next excursion is by the State railway to Choceň (24 km). In the town there is a castle with an old artistically decorated roman chapel. Proceeding, we go on to Vysoké Mýto (10 km). The church dates from 1260, and has a picture by Brandl. 14 km from here is Litomyšle, the birth-place of the famous Bohemian musical composer Bedřich Smetana (1824—1884). Around the town there are the remains of ancient fortifications, a castle built between 1568 and 1573, a fine market-place, college of the Piarists (1644) and a new building „National House“.
From here it is easy to enjoy a trip to the picturesquely situated quarries of Budislav and the rocks called Toulovcovy.
We return to Choceň and journey through a fine stretch of country to Ústí nad Orlicí (Wildenschwert, 15 km) and Kyšperk (14 km), here there is the renaissance church of St. Wenceslaus (1680) and St. John’s—a curiously constructed building.
We can make „Ústí“ our next halting-place, and there arrange some pleasant outings and enjoy ourselves rambling over hill and dale, visiting interesting old castles such as the ruins of Žampach (four miles), to Litice (15 km) in the Valley of the Divoká Orlice (Wild eagle river—Wilde Adler), viewing the well preserved ruins of the castle Litice (13th. century) and 5 km Potštýn a small town on the right bank of the river where it nestles in a pretty valley near to the remains of the noble old castle.
Turning to the North we go on to Týniště (16 km), and Opočno (20 km) near the Zlatý potok (Golden brook). The town has a church and a monastery of the Capucines (1674), it has a fine statue of the Holy Virgin in front. The castle of the princes Colloredo-Mannsfeld contains an artistic collection. There is a spacious park attached to the castle.
Continuing we pass through a hilly country to Náchod (21 km), here we are in the proximity of the Prussian frontior. This is an industrial town interested in the weaving of cotton, flax-spinning and kindred trades. The castle is a conspicuons object towering above the town on rock 405 m in height. Here was born in 1583 Albrecht z Waldštýna one of the most famous leaders in the 30 years war.
The castle has a good collection of historical paintings and many important manuscripts.
From this point a great sweep of country can be surveyed in all directions. The decanal church of St. Lauvrence (14th. century) has a baptismal font of 1463.
THE HOTEL: U Slunce (The Sun).
In this neighbourhood are the graves of the first victims of the war of 1866.
We are now in the mountainous borderland of Bohemia and as we pass along we see apparently endless succession of enchanting scenes; and the most intense interest is aroused by the charms revealed in the rocky mazes of Abrspach and Teplice (Aberspach und Wekelsdorf).
Teplice (Wekelsdorf) with its fine old church of the 14th. century, is reached by railway (22 km). On arrival we hire a cab for a drive to the „two cities of the rocks“. The admission to both is by ticket and under the care of special guides.
From Teplice we return by Václavice (28 km) and Starkoč (3 km) to Josefov and Jaromeř (19 km). Josefov is a fortress founded by Joseph II. in 1781, and is separated from Jaroméi by only two miles, it is a short but pleasant walk through the green meadows. The town is situated at the junction of the Metuje and Labe. The churches are St. Nicolas’ (gothic) and St. James’ which dates from the 15th. century. There are some quaint old houses in the Market-place
Our next excursion will take us to Kukus (8 km) Here is a convent and hospital of the Brethren of Charity, with the fine church of the Holy Trinity containing pictures by Brandl and the tomb of the Counts Špork. The old castle and adjoining wood are reminiscent of that great patron of the fine arts Count Antony Špork (1662—1738), whose memory is honoured by many statues cut out the very rocks by the sculptor Braun (1684—1738).
From Josefov we return to Prague (17 km) by Králové Hradec (Königgrätz). This town was until the end of the last century, a fortress, it is the seat of a bishop and has many schools. On the great Market-place stands the cathedral of the Holy Ghost, founded in 1303, its gothic sanctuary is by Mathew Rejsek (1492). Here is a picture by Brandl, but amongst its most precious possessions, the cathedral can show a number of rare hymn-books or kancionály, splendid works in vellum embellished with artistic miniatures. Near the cathedral is St. Clement’s chapel with relics of the saints, this chapel has a tower 68.5 m in height, the Bílá věž or White tower with a bell „St. Augustin“ weighing 98 q. On the site of the old ramparts and moat, a new town with houses built with modern improvements is rapidly rising. On the South side of the place is the episcopal residence which possesses a large library. This town is famous for the production of musical instruments, especially those used in military brass bands. Some of the most perfect instruments of this kind are produced at Messrs Červený’s world-famed factory. W. W. Tomek (1818—1905) the celebrated Bohemian historian was born here. From Králové Hradec by Veliký Osek (51 km) to Libice, thee birthplace of st. Vojtěch (Adalbert) second bishop of Bohemia (982), on to Poděbrady (7 km) the chief attraction of this place, is the castle where George, the excellent king of Bohemia was born in 1427, and elected in the town-hall of the old town of Prague 1458. The arch-decanal church has a silver plated altar, pictures by Brandl and Škréta. The tomb of Kunhuta first wife of George (whose monument stands in front of the castle) is in the church.
It is well to stop at Nymburk (14 km), the most ancient town on the banks of the Labe. The decanal church of St. Aegidius is an old gothic structure of brick dating from 1282—1305. Parts of the fortifications and gates are well preserved. The town-hall was originally a monastery of the Augustinian friars. There is a statue here, of St. Vojtěch erected in 1687.
Passing Lysá (16 km) where the castle has an extensive library, a picture gallery and collection of rare engravings, we arrive once more at Prague after a run of 34 km.
Railway fares for this tour: first-class 70 cr., second-class 47 cr.
THE NORTH OF BOHEMIA.
To see the interesting towns and districts of the North of Bohemia, we must start from the Station of the Austrian North Western Railway (Rakouská severo-zapadní dráha, Oesterreich. Nord-Westbahn).
We first go to Stará Boleslav (Alt Bunzlau) by way of Lysá (45 km). The castle was founded in 930 by prince Boleslav, who had it built according to a roman model. In 935, prince Wenceslaus was murdered here at the instigation of his brother Boleslav. In memory of the martyred prince, Břetislaus founded a church: St. Wenceslaus’, in the style of a roman basilica which to day can be easily traced in the foundations. Beneath the presbytery is the entrance to a subterranean church or „crypt“. We would glance at St. Cosmas’ and Damian’s with the mausoleum of St. Wenceslaus erected 1654. St. Clements chapel a fine old building dates from 1099. St. Mary’s with its marble floor, was founded 1604, it has frescoes by Hellich and an organ—said to be the largest in Bohemia. Many thousands of pilgrims come here to adore the miraculous image of the Holy Virgin.
Crossing the Labe, we arrive at Brandýs where there is ancient castle above the river. The two churches of note are: the decanal church of St. Paul and St. Peter containing a picture by Škréta.
This is quite near to the much patronized bath Houška.
From Brandýs to Mělník (24 km). It is situated on the right bank of the Labe—just above its junction with the Vltava. This is an important vineyard centre, the cultivation of the wine was much improved by Charles IV. importing cuttings of the most approved kinds from Burgundy, and this endeavour to improve is continued under the auspices of the specialists who impart instruction in the „Wine and Fruit-growers School. The quality of the wine can easily be tested by „sampling“ it at V. J. Šimoneks.
The archdecanal church of St. Peter and Paul is a gothic edifice with a fine groined ceiling, it was founded in the 12th. century. The castle of Prince z Lobkovic, is a noble residence, it possesses a well arranged museum. The chapel of St. Ludmila, of the 14th. century, with a picture by Škréta. The gothic town-hall has a chapel of St. Barbara (1395) and here there is a magnificent hymnbook and a chalice of the 16th. century. In the Market-place there is an old well 70 m in depth. Of the fortifications, only the Prague gate is in good repair. There is a monument to Charles IV., the great benefactor of the town.
Four miles to the North of Mělník is Liběchov with a fine castle, and in the neighbouring wood Klácelka, there are a number of statues cut in the rocks by the Bohemians sculpture Levy (1820—70).
We start from Mělník, cross the Labe and catch a train on the state railway at Beřkovice for Roudnice (19 km). Above the town rises the castle of the principal branch of the princely house of Lobkovic. a huge building containing 181 rooms, a well-stocked library having many important manuscripts and rare old prints, a picture gallery and a unique collection of exquisite armour, antique furniture, glass, china, gold etc. The gothic church was founded in the 14th. century.
An exceedingly pleasant excursion; is from Roudnice to the isolated basalt mountain Říp 459 m in height, where according to the national legend, Čech, the first of the race, and great ancestor of the Bohemians rested, and viewing the country around, he decided to remain and settle in the land he judged to be fair. On the top of this magnetic rock is the chapel of St. George, restored in 1125 by prince Soběslav to commemorate his victory over the German emperor Lothar.
All tourists who visit this spot, agree with Čech; and say it is a splendid position from which to view the land; we cannot wonder at Čech’s decision to remain,—the lovely view is simply entrancing!
From Roudnice to Terezín (12 km.). This was a fortress founded 1780.
From here we go by carriage in 45 minutes to Litoměřice (Leitmeritz) on the right bank of the Labe, the seat of a bishop. The cathedral possesses several pictures by Škréta. The oldest map of Bohemia (1518) is to be found in the episcopal residence.
The old town-hall in the Market-place was originally founded in 1296, it has been rebuilt several times, it contains a fine large hall. The parish Church has a font of the 16 th. century; and a chapel of St. John with the tomb of the bishop count Waldstein.
Litoměřice is the starting point of the steamers plying between Bohemia and saxony. From here a nice trip on the Elbe must not be missed, the route through the picturesque borderland amidst the mountains is most enjoyable.
We now continue our journey by the North Western Railway from Litoměřice to Střekov (24 km.) (Schreckenstein) and soon a castle attracts our attention, it stands on a rock above the river at a height of 446 m., it is the property of the prince of Lobkovic. We now cross a double bridge, the higher level being used for the railway and the lower for pedestrians and vehicular traffic, and arrive at the industrial town of Ústí nad Labem (Aussig an der Elbe). The chemical and soap factory of this town is one of the most extensive establishments of the kind in Austria. Ústí is an important commercial centre, it does a very large trade in brown coal, sugar, cereals and fruit; principally for the German market. The embankments for the convenience of the shipping trade are several miles long. The decanal gothic church possesses a Madonna by Raphael Mengs and a bell with a portrait of John Huss (1544). The industrial museum is well worthy of a visit. From Ústí as the border town, we go on to Lobosice (22 km.), noted for its manufacture of sweets and coffee substitutes.
Some six miles distant, standing on the top of a hill is the ruined castle of Košťál.
From Lobosice to Česká Lípa (Böhmisch-Leipa 49 km.), from thence (26 km.) to Bezděz. The castle standing on the highest top of a twin mountain, dates from the 11th. century and from the high tower one fourth of the kingdom can be surveyed, truly a magnificent panorama. Here Kunhuta, widow of the unfortunate Přemysl Otokar II., and her son king Wenceslaus II., were detained as prisoners (1279).
The two chapels of St. Aegidius and the Holy Virgin date from the 13th. century.
From Bezděz to Bakov (28 km.) and on to Mladá Boleslav (Jungbunzlau) with its 10 th. century castle. The decanal church of St. Mary was founded in the 16th. century. There is a column of the Holy Virgin erected in 1680 as a thankoffering after an epidemic.
Mladá Boleslav was one of the principal centres of the Bohemian Brethren. There is a splendid hymn-book or Kancionál to be seen at the town-hall.
The industrial concerns include the products of soap and candle factories, breweries, distilleries and a cloth factory established in 1780.
From Boleslav, continuing to the North along the banks of the Jizera by Bakov (9 km) to Turnov (22 km). This town has an old established renown for its special industry:—stone-cutting and polishing the gems of various kinds—especially garnets. All kinds of beautiful jewellery is here manufactured. There is a special school of instruction for those who desire to practise any branch of the jewellery trade; including cutting, polishing, gold setting and engraving.
The town has several good churches, and a fine town-hall. It is a convenient point from whence to start on many pleasant excursions to places of special interest in this Paradise of Bohemia“. For the first, we go by the Turnov-Jičín Railway to the castle Waldstein founded in the 13th. century. It is situated on a ridge 388 m, in height and affords a splendid view of the country. 6 km from Waldstein is the far-famed wateringplace Sedmihorky (Wartenberg). We go on next to Hrubá skála a castle standing on a rock at a height of 352 m A little beyond this we reach Borek-Trosky from whence we start to climb the steeps leading to the intensively interesting ruins of the castle Trosky built on a high doublepeaked rock, each peak having a tower. The „Panna“ (Maiden) presents almost insurmountable difficulties, but the „Baba“ (Old woman) is an easy task for the experienced rock climber, but whatever be the difficulties and labour involved in making the ascent, all who accomplish the climb are amply rewarded; to see such lovely scenery is worth any amount of toil. From Trosky to Železnice (19 km) we pass to the ruin of the castle Bradlec and enjoye another panoramic view, then finally to Jičín (5 km). This ancient town, formerly the seat of the famous count Waldstein, duke of Friedland, has many monuments of great historic interest: such as the gate Valdice (16 century), the decanal church of St. James. St. Mary’s (1629), the castle (17th. century), St. Ignacius’ (14th. century) the college of the abolished order ot the Jesuits, and some remains of the ancient fortifications.
As a temporary home we can recommend the hotel Hamburg.
A trips to the Prachovské skály (rocks of Prachov) is one certain to be enjoyed by all making it. There, at an excellent pension, guides are provided; it is best to have their services for the charm of the place comes from it being a veritable maze of rocks, the scenery may fairly be described as romantic.
Another excursion—easily made, is to the old castle of Kost with the gothic chapel of st. Anne. From mount Mužský we obtain an extensive view of the whole district including the battle-fields of the war of 1866.
Railway-fares for this tour: first-class 46 crowns, second-class 30 crowns.
From Jičín we return to Prague.
In writing this little guide, we have been moved by the desire to induce British and American tourists to visit Bohemia in larger numbers than in the past—so that they might see something of our country’s natural attractions and its native art and industries. We promise, that if our visitors are sometimes surprised, they will never be disappointed, and that coming as strangers, they will leave, as friends!
This work was published before January 1, 1929 and is anonymous or pseudonymous due to unknown authorship. It is in the public domain in the United States as well as countries and areas where the copyright terms of anonymous or pseudonymous works are 95 years or less since publication.
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