California Historical Society Quarterly/Volume 22/Letters of an Artist in the Gold Rush

Letters of an Artist in the Gold Rush

Edited by Frank Merriman Stanger

THE name of William H. Dougal deserves greater recognition in this state than it has hitherto received. This statement is ventured in spite of the fact that Dougal was in California only a year, and was never a California enthusiast. San Francisco fascinated him, but too prominent in his mind were the primitive city's mud, wind, and dust; and California's most potent charms could never quite overcome the pull of family, fiancee, and good business prospects back home.

But his year in California was packed with activity, and some of the ex- pressions of his versatile talents are only now coming to light.

An engraver by profession, he made a series of lithographs of scenes along the Sacramento River which were published after his return to the East in Ringgold's Series of Charts with Sailing Directions.^ Because of these litho- graphs he is mentioned (with some erroneous statements) in Peters' Cali- fornia on Stone.^

Dougal's most interesting work, however, consists of the letters printed here and pencil sketches made in and while en route to and from California. The sketches are of value not only because of their artistic excellence but more especially, from the historian's point of view, because of their faith- fulness to minute detail.

William Dougal was born in 1822 in New Haven, Connecticut. He was educated in the local Lancastrian school, and was afterward apprenticed to Sherman and Smith, prominent map engravers of that time in New York City. In his early twenties he established an office in Washington, D. C, and began doing engraving on contract for the United States Government and for various bank note companies. It was here and in this profession that most of his adult life was spent. Examples of his work are to be found in important government publications of his time, as well as in other books that feature especially fine engraving on copper and steel.

The California gold rush drew him away temporarily, but he was not of the type who "rushed" hysterically, for along with his artistic talents he had an eye to business. In the spring of 1849, with some "associates," among whom he appears to have been the principal entrepreneur, he purchased the barque GalindOy loaded her with an assortment of drugs, hardware, provisions, etc., and set sail with some ninety prospective gold miners for California.^

The log which he kept of the seven-months voyage* shows it to have been uneventful, except for severe cold and storms while rounding the Horn and the stops in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and Valparaiso, Chile. His artistic pencil was inspired while en route by a scene aboard the Galindo, by marine life in the Gulf Stream, by the mountains of the Cape Verde Islands, and by the exotic scenery in and around Rio de Janeiro. His shrewd business sense is further shown by his purchase of flour in Chile, with his last remaining funds, for sale in San Francisco.

Arriving in San Francisco, on November 22,1 849, he did not, as most men did, go immediately to the gold fields. He seems to have been very little in- terested in mining, for he did not visit the diggings until shortly before leav- ing for home, and he went then more as a tourist than as a miner. Instead, with one James Graves, he set himself up in the livery and grocery business in San Francisco, at the corner of Kearny and Bush Streets (or Kearny and Pine). 5

After selling his business, early in July 1850, to occupy his energies while waiting to leave for home, he took a contract to grade Stockton Street. His business acumen is attested by the fact that, with a forest of idle ships in San Francisco harbor, he was able to sell the Galindo.

The livery stable proprietor and grading contractor was also an artist, and fortunately he found time to exercise his artistic talent. His work in- cludes a detailed pencil sketch of Mission Dolores, and a companion picture drawn from the top of a hill overlooking the Mission District with a vista including the entire area that is now down-town San Francisco. There are also five sketches of scenes down the Peninsula, showing the Sanchez home on Rancho Buri Buri, the adobe mission outpost on San Mateo Creek, Charles Brown's house at Woodside, and two other scenes on the road to San Jose. The scenes along the Sacramento River have already been mentioned. One picture in this series is titled "San Francisco from Yerba Buena [Island] ."

Most striking of all the sketches is a panoramic view of San Francisco drawn from the top of Nob Hill, near the site of the Mark Hopkins Hotel, which takes in all the city from Rincon Point to North Beach. Here, with a true engraver's passion for detail, Mr. Dougal set down the outlines of each individual building in the city and each one of the mass of ships in the harbor. The drawing was made sometime in 1850, apparently either before the fires of that year had done their devastating work or after the damage had been repaired.

Having profited in both money and experience, but still advising his friend in the East to stay at home, he set sail early in November 1 850, hoping to be home by Christmas. His return was by way of Panama, and the pic- turesque scenes at Acapulco, Mexico, and at Chagres on the Isthmus of Panama, inspired some of his best artistic talent.

The California trip for him was only an episode, but for us he left, per- haps unconsciously, an important contribution to the history of the West. The California sketches remained hidden in his portfolio until after his death in 1895. Since then they have been carefully preserved by his son, who lives in Washington, D. C, and through whose generosity the drawings have now been acquired by the San Mateo County Historical Association. They are kept in the Association's Museum at San Mateo Junior College.

The original letters written by Wilham H. Dougal in 1849 and 1850 are still in the possession of members of the Dougal family, in Washington, D. C. The following text is taken from copies made by the family, but never here- tofore published. Only items of a purely personal nature have been omitted.

The person addressed as "Dear V" was Mary Virginia Adler of George- town, D. C. (now a part of the city of Washington), who in 1851 became Mrs. Dougal. "Dear J" was John Mansfield, a banker of New Haven Con- necticut, and a lifelong friend. "Dear S" was Dougal's sister.

THE LETTERS

At Sea, June ist, 1849. Dear Mother,

We are now within a few days sail of Rio Janeiro, and I commence my writing now in order that I may have all my time there at liberty to look about, . . . Now, I am going to tell you how we manage and what we have to eat. I shall have no old clothes to bother me after this voyage, certain. As soon as I came on board I laid out 2 flannel shirts, 2 flannel drawers, 2 hickory shirts and the old "blue breetches"; this stock I conclude will last me the voyage, and first rate they will be too. I don't know what I should have done without the little bag of needles and thread you fitted out for me, for I came off in such a hurry that I should have forgotten to take any. Well now about our living, on board ship. The provisions are all dealt out on certain days of the week, one week the same as another, so we always know what we are going to have for dinner; we have our Bean day, our Pea day, mush day, etc., etc. On Sunday we have for breakfast, say boiled Indian Pudding or corn bread, with a meat stew, perhaps, or cold meat. Coffee, Butter, Molasses etc.; for dinner we have boiled corn Beef, corned Pork, and what we call Duff, which is a great dish with us. It is nothing more or less than a wheat flour Pudding, boiled, with a few dried apples or raisins to flavor it; this is made light, and with plenty of Butter over it. You can imagine how I stow it away; it will be a mercy if I don't burst before I get through this voyage. Well, for supper we have sometimes hot rolls or corn bread, or broiled herring, with meat, tea, bread, butter, etc. On Monday we have for dinner. Bean Soup, baked pork and Beans, corn Beef, and Tapioca pudding or Apple Pie; on Tuesday, Pea Soup, boiled Pork and Peas, with some pudding to top off with; on Wednesday we have perhaps a meat Stew and boiled rice and molasses which you know is another favorite dish of mine; Thursday is Duff day again, Saturday is Mackarel or Codfish day, and so we live with slight variation from week to week. The substantial for dinner is invariably the same, so that if I am bothered to know the day of the week I have only to say to myself we had boiled rice yesterday, and duff to day for dinner, so it must be Thursday. If you call this hardship or hard fare then I am no judge. The Capt. and myself are great friends, he is about forty years of age, a man of family, a strict temperance man, an odd fellow and a gentleman and I should also add a Christian, so you see I am in good company. All our officers are gentlemen and pleasant companions. We have about 90 men in all on board, and of this number of course some few are bad, but the majority are fine men, and pleasant times we have these bright moonlight evenings; we have 4 or 5 musicians among us besides some good singers, so we have dancing balls and concerts, and on Sunday which is always strictly observed, the day being passed in reading, towards night we gather on the quarter deck, get out the Psalm Books, and the way we do sing Old Hundred, Windham, Antioch, and all the other good old tunes is a caution; sometimes we will take the Bible and read aloud for the rest. We have lots of Bibles aboard, a package being given us by the New York Bible Society before we sailed. On week days I pass the time in drawing. Painting, studying, reading, etc., I am a great favorite with all hands. They fish up sea weed for me upon which we find all sorts of queer shells and little animals and I make paintings of them, so you see I am improving my time and shall have lots of things to show you when I come back, besides plenty of long yarns, for I keep a journal of everything aboard. We have seen Whales and Grampus's, Sharks, and Porpoises, Water Spouts and all sorts of wonders to be seen at sea. I am well satisfied that although this may be somewhat the longest route to California, it is the most certain, safe, and pleasant one, the least hardship to be endured. In fact, no hardship at all have we seen yet, and one third of our voyage is accomplished.

Yours affectionately, W.

j3g^j, S At Sea, June i st, 1 849

I expect you will hear of us or our vessel before you get any letter, for there are at this moment 5 sails in sight, one is coming directly toward us, has hoisted the American flag and made signal to speak us, so I must go on deck and see them and hear what they have to say. It is unusual to see so many sails at one time at sea, but as we are near the harbor of Rio they have prob- ably all sailed from there, some homeward bound, some for Europe. We have been as long as three weeks without seeing a sail, or anything except the sea around us, and now and then some Whales and Porpoises, but there are so many of us that we form a little world or community by ourselves.

3 O'clock. We have just spoken a vessel bound to N. Y. so they will report us and I suppose you will hear of it; they came very close to us and as the wind was light we had quite a confab. The way vessels speak each other may be interesting: The Capt. takes his speaking trumpet and sings out, "Where are you bound?" "California," we reply; "What's your latitude?" "21.15;" "What's your longitude?" "40.07." Then we ask him "Where are you bound?" "New York." "What's your latitude and longitude?" Then he tells us any news he may think interesting to us; among the rest he says, "I have got three CaHfornians aboard, sick of the voyage, going home." "We'll take 'em back if they'll come aboard." "Won't do it," says they. "Had enough of it," Then they commenced throwing Oranges aboard and for a few minutes there was a perfect shower of them. A few more jokes passed, we told them to report us in New York all well, gave them 6 cheers which they returned, and we parted each on his course. You have no idea what an excitement and sensation the cry of "Sail ho! " creates on board a vessel. The idea that perhaps she is homeward bound and will speak us and convey in- telligence of our welfare to friends at home keeps all hands on the tiptoe of expectation until she is out of sight and all ends in disappointment and we keep a bright lookout for the next one. Well in a few days we shall probably be in the land of Oranges and Pineapples, Lemons and Figs, and we anticipate a grand treat there after being at sea so long. We shall see some of those Spanish and Portuguese Senoritas about whom we read so much in the novels. Why I am almost a Spanish don already, only hear me sputter Span- ish: Buenos dias, Senor, hace Caliente, mucho hambre, usted denos alguna cos a a comer. That will do I think; it is sufficient to prove my ability to grad- uate as a Spanish Don. Only think of it, Don Dougal. It don't sound quite right though does it? Well, to return to the vessel, I wish you could be aboard for a few days just to see how we live and how the poor devils man- age. I have given you a good idea of how we live in the cabin, but you should see the groups or messes scattered all over the vessel eating their grub, some squatted on the deck, "a la Turk" with tinpans of molasses and mush, and tincups of Coffee, as happy as lords some of them, others growling because another mess has got more molasses on their mush, and all sorts of jokes and skylarking going on, and then after supper to hear our concerts and see our Cotillions and breakdowns on the deck, I tell you it is rich. We have some funny and queer characters aboard, and after supper of an evening if we don't feel like dancing or skylarking we gather in little knots about deck and spin yarns and peal after peal of laughter attests the good humor and enjoyment of all hands. Our first mate is a queer character, an old Whaleman from Nantucket, and we cluster round him of an evening and listen to his wonderful adventures and hairbreadth escapes, and the old man being a great talker likes nothing better than to spin yams by the hour, and like the "old Veteran" to fight his battles over again. The Capt. and myself build some famous castles in the air, while sitting on the quarter deck with our pipes in mouth; we lay out our fine farms and country seats in great style. and laugh over them afterwards. Well, heaven speed the time when we may

realize these bright visions. a n- • 1

^ Aiiectionately yours,

W.

San Francisco, Nov. 27, 1849. Dear V.

Your very, very welcome letters are at last received, and I have at last the pleasure of writing to you and all my friends from this famous place. We arrived on the 22 nd, have now been here 5 days. The first move I made on stepping ashore was for the post office, drawing as straight a line for it as the mud would let me; there I found quite a pile of letters awaiting me. I seated myself deliberately on a carpenter's bench in the street a short dis- tance from the office and, spreading them all out before me, examined the post marks of each and asked myself the question, which shall be first? Georgetown was decided upon. . .

We arrived at Rio safely; from there I wrote to you . . . We left that port to encounter the dangers of Cape Horn. Your fears were well founded I as- sure you. All went well until we arrived off the La Plata River, the region of storms. On the night of the 25th of June we had a terrible storm. I stood upon the deck and watched the elements in their sport, their jubilee as it were. Such thunder and lightning I never saw or heard before; the sea run- ning mountains high, the lightning playing around us and the constant cracking of the thunder were awful. In the intervals of darkness, almost tangible, we could see aloft dancing from mast head and from yard to yard, balls of fire, (corposants [or St. Elmo's fire] they are termed) about which sailors are very superstitious. I looked on all this and enjoyed it, why it was I know not, I felt no fear. Many a poor frightened sinner prayed that night, and not one but vowed all the gold in California should not tempt him to again encounter such a risk. 'Twas all over in 24 hours, and no accident hap- pened to the vessel, though one of the passengers was thrown against the bulwarks and had his collar bone broken, our physician made that all right. Now commenced a succession of snow storms and squalls which we had almost daily for 2 long months. On the 25th of August we passed Staten land. We were blown back three times after passing Cape Horn, but with true Yankee perseverance we "tried it again." We had heavy gales lasting 8 days some of them, during which time no sail could be carried on the vessel, and she would be covered with ice from deck to mast head. Three times we ex- pected to go down, and on one occasion prepared axes and hatchets to cut away the mast; each one stood ready, with hatchet in hand waiting but for a word from the officer to send all over the side, but a kind Providence pre- served us, not from any surplus amount of piety we had on board, for a more wicked and profane set of men I have never met with. I am giving you a very brief account of all this, but as soon as I can get settled on shore I shall send you a full description. We arrived safe at Valparaiso Sept. 16. We were very fortunate in this, for on the 1 7th commenced the grand festi- val of the "Dias Ocho," the celebration of Chilean independence. We were thus enabled to see more of the people and their customs than we would at ordinary times, all the Natives from the country thronging into the city with "best bib and tucker" to join in the festival. It continued one week or longer and during this time nearly all business is suspended. Horse racing. Bull fights, Masquerades and Fandangos are the order of the day. I attended a "Grande Bal Masquerade a la Grande Teatro," in full costume too. My dress was a red cap, black mask, crimson shirt over a fancy white and pink one, white pants with crimson sash around my waist, white kids, and the self same patent leather gaiters which flourished at the grand ball in Wash- ington. If you had but seen me in this costume I am certain you would have fallen in love with me at once, even if you had never seen me before. I knew that many of our Company intended going to this ball as spectators, so I kept it a secret as to my mask from all but one or two. Now, if I begin to tell you of all the jokes I played on them there, of the fun and adventures I had, t'would fill this sheet 7 times, and I have so much besides to talk with you and tell you, so I will cut it short. The whole affair was like the carnival at Venice. Many times I wished you were there to enjoy all this with me, so you see you were not forgotten; I could write you a small volume on what we saw and what befel me in Valparaiso. I will tell you of one adventure: I always went armed with a pistol when I went off alone which I did often, taking many excursions into the country a short distance. On one occasion I was obliged to stop at a small "Rancho" for lodgings, in the suburbs of the city. I was shown into a small room, in fact there was but one room in the house, and one bed. In the corner was a stout Chilean stretched upon a bench, apparently fast asleep, wrapped up closely in his "Sarape." Knowing their treacherous character I simply threw myself upon the bed prepared for anything which might occur, placing my pistol under my pillow. Be- ing very much fatigued I was soon in the land of dreams, how long I had been sleeping I know not, but I was awakened by something touching my foot. It was a very slight touch, but I was wide awake in an instant. I made no motion or noise, but quietly drew my pistol. It was total darkness, for they have no Avindows in these small houses. Soon I felt the touch again and then found this Chilean was feeling along carefully so as to find my pockets. I lay motionless, waiting the result, knowing that they never use their knifes until obliged to, or in a quarrel. He felt quietly along until he found my coat pocket, and just as he was introducing his finger in the most insinuating manner possible, I struck his hand away with a sweeping blow and lay quiet, holding my pistol in my left hand; all was silent for a few moments and I then heard him move back to his corner and stretch himself on the bench. Not a word had been spoken by either of us. It was total darkness and silence, so silent that I could hear my heart beat. I thought a moment as to the course I should pursue, and then, still holding my pistol in readiness, arose, walked to the door, unlocked it and stepped out into the bright moon- Kght, closed the door after me and walked off. What do you think of this? Isn't this romance enough to satisfy any man? I certainly am a hero now, although I am not certain as to whether heroes do exactly right in walking off without paying for their lodging. Under the circumstances however it might be excused.

Now we will leave Valparaiso. We set sail on the 3rd of October and after a beautiful passage of only 50 days arrived here. The mud [is] knee deep, some places absolutely impassable; the weather has been pleasant for the past few days but now the rain is pouring in torrents and may do so for weeks without cessation. It is the vilest place I ever set foot in, yet there are 30,000 people here ashore and four vessels arriving daily. It is very sickly, hardly one escaping an attack of Dysentery or Fever. There are not houses sufficient for the immense number who are here, and the main part are liv- ing in tents. I am at present living on board the Barque, but have come ashore to night in order to finish my letters. I have a great many to write and fear that I shall have to be short with all of them except yours of course, for the mail closes in a day or so. I am at this moment in a large frame building on the water side belonging to a friend from New Haven engaged in the shipping business; the building is 60 by 100 feet and rents for $2500 per month. I have a red Indian blanket to wrap around me and a soft pine plank for a bed; 'tis not only past the witching hour, but nearly 2 o'clock. I must dispense with poetry in closing for nothing around me is very suggestive of poetical ideas; I fear you would weep for me could you survey the scene.

Sincerely yours, W.H.D.

San Fran., Nov. 28, 1849. Dear J.

Here I am at last, safe sound and hearty, seated in Charley F. Hotchkiss' store^ on the water side in San Francisco. We arrived on the 2 2d, lost no one on the voyage, all well and hearty. Of the events of the voyage I will say very little in this letter, reserving a full description thereof for a future letter, I will simply say that Cape Horn is all it is represented; 17 vessels would not tempt me to go through again what we have suffered. We saw the elephant for the first time off the La Plata River and had him in full view until we got into the Pacific, a period of two months, during which time we suffered inconceivably. The ship was at times a complete mass of ice from deck to masthead and three different times we thought ourselves booked for "Davy Jones' Locker." However we managed to live through it, and ar- rived safe at Valparaiso. I remained there over two weeks recruiting. We were fortunate in the time of our arrival, the 16 Sept., for on the 17th com- menced the Grand National Festival of "Dias Ocho" (8 days) in celebra- tion of Chilean Independence during which period the people give up all business and have a perfect carnival. Masquerades, Horseracing, Fandangos, and Bullfights being the order of the day. Well, thereby hangs a long tale about our doings and adventures which I must reserve, I have so much else to tell you. We left there on 3d October, had a beautiful passage of 50 days to this port. All I can say is, if some of the Boys don't see the Elephant here be- fore they leave, I am very much mistaken, a twin brother of the one seen off the Horn. There is plenty of gold, ay, heaps of it (on the gambling tables), but those who get it earn it, not only on the passage here, but after they get here. A man without capital must dig for it, he may get a fortune, he may only pay expenses, it is much of a lottery, although I have heard of few who have not done well. I can tell you nothing new about mining, you have the whole story home. I have committed the mistake which thousands of others have, in leaving my capital home. True I have my claim on the Bank, but the bond is not due under three months, and meanwhile I must wait pa- tiently though every hour I see a chance slip through my fingers. A man with five thousand dollars can make a fortune here in a year, at least such a fortune as I want; and I would agree to come home in that time if I had that sum in my pocket at this moment. I left N.Y. with only $250 in my pocket, invested that in flour while in Valparaiso and landed here with two dimes in my pocket; sold my flour today and put $500 in my pocket clear of all ex- penses. I have written to Chubbs for funds, if he has any of mine left, and hope I shall receive some remittances; if so, shall invest in real estate. Not one man who has invested in real estate but he has made his thousands. John, there never was and probably never will be such a chance as there is here for acquiring a fortune, but everything is in proportion: flour $30 a barrel, eggs $1 each, cabbage $15 per head, potatoes 50c a pound; rents are enor- mous, indeed they are rather out of proportion; any sort of a room large enough to place a bed in costs $100 a month; C. F. Hotchkiss pays for his store, a three story rough frame building, built upon piles, $31,800 per an- num; carpenters are earning from $12 to $16 per day, and some of our boys are now at work storing coal on board the steamer at $1.50 per hour. Yet with all this, many, very many are returning home broken down in health and spirits. As for myself, I am as independent as possible, plenty to eat and a good home on board the Barque and weigh 20 lbs. heavier than when I left home. I may be idle for 3 months, but I don't care a fig. I shall visit the mines next season if it is to stay only a week or so. Nearly all the boys are up the river at Sacramento City or in the mines, Frank and Dan Phillips,. . .with many others. John Atwater is here with Cook Baker & Co.,'^ Leonard Hotch- kiss^ is with Charles at the store, also the two boys . . . Web and Walt Thomp- son are both dead. It is very sickly, scarcely any escaping an attack of Dysentery. The rainy season set in early, a short time previous to our ar- rival; the mud is knee deep and in some places the streets absolutely impass- able; we are consequently obliged to wear wading boots, said boots costing only $75 the pair. We had very fine weather for a few days but do not ex- pect it will last long. Met Ed Barber the other day, he is well and hearty, don't know whether he will be able to dig much gold on evangelical prin- ciples; it isn't the way others dig it anyhow, as you would admit if you could see the gambling table. That Parker house is "the place" in San Fran- cisco; if there is another place like it in the world I would like to see it. Stay at home, John, is my sincere advice to all who do not consider Gold para- mount, for a man has to live like a dog here. No one possessing any energy can fail to make money, still, nevertheless, notwithstanding— do not suppose from this that I regret having taken this step, or feel discouraged or dis- heartened in the slightest. I do not regret it and never shall and would not recall the past eight months if I could, for I have seen and learned much . . .

Ever yours W.H.D.

Y)Q2^j^y San Francisco, June 17, 1850.

No change has taken place in my business since writing you last. I am now endeavoring to sell out, if I can do so without too great sacrifice, shall then mount a good horse and visit the mines going to Stockton and Sacra- mento City, and then the prodigal will return home, not as badly off I hope as a certain prodigal we read of in the Good Book. I returned a few days since from "Pueblo de San Jose" the seat of government, a most beautiful place, and if you like you shall take the ride with me. After an early dinner we mount two of my best horses and in company with an agreeable friend commence our long ride, leaving behind us the City of San Francisco, fa- mous for wind and dust. We slowly ride until we reach the Mission de Do- lores, distant three miles, of which you have heard before, and now com- mences a beautiful, smooth hard road, and we push our good horses into a brisk gallop, for 'tis four o'clock and we have thirty-five good miles to pass over before we reach our stopping place for the night. On we go over hill and through pretty valleys filled with troops of horses and herds of cattle, now and then meeting a party of Mexicans with their droves of pack mules, jogging patiently along chatting together and smoking their eternal cigar- itos. The country is almost destitute of any kind of timber and nothing meets the eye save immense level plains and lofty smooth swelling Hills; and now we come to Sanchez Ranch,^ distant eighteen miles from San Francisco, and after giving our horses a taste of the clear brook which ripples across the road we push on for the Mission of Saint Mathews,^^ five miles farther; and now the face of the country is changed, we are beyond the influence of the chilling coast wind which renders San Francisco so unpleasant, the air is mild and balmy, and in place of barren hills and plains we ride through groves of beautiful and splendid oaks, the road is level as a house floor, and as the setting sun throws the long shadows athwart our path and every turn discloses a new scene of beauty, we can imagine ourselves in fairyland. As we dash along through the oak openings, the turtle doves fill the groves, and countless numbers of squirrels can be seen frolicing about. Here we are at the Mission. We dismount for a few minutes to take some refreshment and let our horses breathe. The (I blush a little) Milk Punch^^ was excellent; and now we are off again, cross a deep gulch with a fine stream of water running through it, and after a ride of three miles through the Oaks we strike out upon a level plain without tree or bush for ^Yt miles. After this we come to more oaks and the whole country covered with wild oats and looking like an immense Harvest field. Soon we come to Angelo's Ranch^- situated in the midst of this beautiful country distant from Saint Matthews 1 2 miles. We alight for a time, but this is not our stopping place, "still must we on" although feeling marvelous stiff, in the joints, twelve miles farther to Wistman Ranch.^^ The sun is down, darkness comes on apace, and we push our horses still farther, for the grizzly bears are numerous in this neighbor- hood and an encounter with them is not to be courted. We have a revolver each and hold them in readiness. We have no moon to guide us by its sil- very light and tis now too dark to distinguish the road. We have left the oaks and now come to an open country; trusting to our horses to keep the road, we give them the rein and dash forward into the seemingly dark void. We now hear the bellowing of a herd of wild cattle and before we know it are in the midst of them. Luckily we were not attacked by any of them and after losing the road two or three times came across an Indian Camp and by dint of the little Spanish I could talk ascertained that we were within a half a mile of Wistman's Ranch. We soon arrived there and received a hearty welcome, gave our horses in charge of the Indian boy to stake them out in the rich grass and sat down to a good supper looking more Hke home than any thing we have seen yet. Our host is a true Yankee, and his wife and three or four noisy children transported us back to Yankeeland. I can assure you we were very glad to retire to bed after a ride of 42 miles in 6 hours, and slept soundly. I was up by sunrise, a more beautiful morning the sun never shone upon. The front of the house commands a view of the bay and "Con- tra Costa" with the distant peaks of the Sierra Nevada;^* the ground back of the house is covered with a heavy growth of trees and fields of wild mus- tard. After a good breakfast, fine butter churned this morning being the I greatest luxury, we saddled our nags and started for Pueblo distant only 1 2 miles. I should never wish to live in a more beautiful country than this we are riding through this morning; it has given me a different opinion of Cali- fornia, and if I were going to remain in California should leave the sand hills of San Francisco very quickly. We ride on through oaks and fields of wild mustard until we reach the Mission of Santa Clara within three miles of the city. It is a pretty place, a church built in the old Spanish style with most grim looking saints pictured on the walls and some very nice adobe houses, with a sprinkling of Yankee cottages. Groups of Mexicans and Indians are lounging about basking in the sunshine; the only moving active thing is our little party as we canter gaily through the village. But I fear this long ride will weary you, so we will make haste to Pueblo. Our party is increased in number to about twenty and we make quite an appearance as we come clat- tering up the wide and pleasant streets of Pueblo. The place seems almost deserted for this is the day of the grand race for ten thousand dollars, and all the population have gone to the race course. Upon arriving there we found some two or three thousand, mostly Mexicans in all variety of the Spanish costumes. The races over, we adjourn to the mansion house, a fine hotel, board only $8 per day; after dinner we took a ride about town and passed the evening pleasantly. The Pueblo is very pleasantly situated, the streets spacious and level, the buildings mostly in the Spanish style and the country round about, beautiful. I could be well contented to live there provided you were with me; it surpasses Georgetown. I was detained a day by some business, and at noon of the third day we mounted and left for home, reached Wistman's Ranch at three P. M., had a good dinner and rode on as far as Angelo's where we passed the night. We arrived at home at noon well pleased with our journey. . .We should think it terrible at home to start out on a ride of 50 or 60 miles on horseback, but here it is nothing. But let us talk of other matters. Our city has within a few days been visited by another large fire,^^ if anything more destructive than either of the preceding, and Mr. K.^® has for the third time been burnt out; fortunately I am too far out of town to apprehend much danger from such a calamity.

I have become so tired of my present life, I am up at daybreak . . . until nine or ten in the evening, as the Spanish say, "mucho trabajo en California" no music parties, no ladies, nothing of refinement.

Truly and sincerely yours, W.

San Francisco, July ist, 1850. DearV.

I have been much bothered and troubled with my business today, have been obliged to be down town all day, most of the time in the burnt district, the wind blowing a hurricane and the dust and ashes almost choking and blinding one. I breathed an anathema on California and its everlasting winds, shut my eyes and pushed on . . .

Yours sincerely, W.

Sunday Evening.

I have taken the first grand step toward coming home, have sold my whole right, title, and interest in and to the grocery, feed store, and livery stable, now so well known in San Francisco; the new proprietor takes possession tomorrow and I feel like a freed captive as though this move had placed me much nearer home, and indeed it has, for I can now arrange my business affairs so as to close them at any time between this and fall, and "Vamose the ranch." I shall be occupied for a week or so settling my accounts, or rather bringing others to a settlement, and then for a trip up the Sacramento to take a hasty glance at the "diggings," perhaps dig a few lumps myself as a "memento mori" and then, start for home. I have just received letters from Mother and Sister, both urging me in most affectionate terms to return home; Mother is a little ambitious however, and wishes me for the honor of the family to secure a few of those large lumps such as they read about home, she does not wish me to return empty handed . . .

Our fourth of July was rather a dull affair. We tried to get up a proces- sion; I was one of the Marshals all in consequence of riding a fine horse, I suppose. I rode in the van of the procession on a large coal black Chili Horse with a splendid California saddle which cost $300, which I may splurge in Georgetown one of these days, if I do not find some one more foolish than myself, to pay a higher price for it. 'Tis the most beautiful saddle I have seen in California, but I must close tonight for (you will scarce credit it) I am completely chilled through standing at my desk, the cold northwest wind is blowing a gale as it does every night and it is impos- sible to keep warm with the thickest coats on . . .

Now as to my future movements, I now intend leaving for home before the first of November, but the events of the coming two weeks will decide, and in my next letter I think I shall be able to inform you to a certainty, almost. Our Barque Galindo is now at Trinidad^ ^ and on her return we talk of sending her to Tahiti, one of the Society Islands, for a cargo of fruit, oranges, lemons, limes and cocoanuts. If we are successful and get a fair proportion of the cargo here in good condition it will be a fine speculation, if not we lose. This, if we conclude to carry it through, will detain me here until December, longer than I wish to stay. They wish me to go with the vessel but I can hardly bear the idea of another imprisonment of three or four months, dearly as I should like to visit the islands. We should stop at the Marquesas Islands and probably some of the other groups on the way down, so if I should take this trip I should have more than California to talk about on my return. I have always had a wish to visit these islands and may possibly conclude to go, but do not think it probable as yet . . .

Sincerely yours ever, W.

San Francisco, Sunday, Sept. 8, 1850. My dear V.

I have taken my morning ride, smoked my cigar and conned over some letters. I am all alone in a pleasant little room, for strange as it may seem I have now a place where I can be alone at times with my own thoughts, and that is rather strange for California ... I have sold all my interest in the Barque Galindo^ and consider myself very fortunate in so doing, although at a sacrifice, so all I have to do is wait patiently a few weeks and I hope to close up all business in California. Meanwhile I have taken a contract from the Corporation for grading Stockton Street, the finest street in the city, merely to keep myself busy for a few weeks; when it is completed, hey for Yankeeland once more. I shall have many sketches to show you and many a wondrous long yarn to spin . . .

It is now late at night, I have just written up my account for the week and can scarce keep my eyes open, my weary lids will come down in spite of me. My contract keeps me very busy; ten hours a day I have to be upon the street, some twenty five or thirty men are to be attended to beside a dozen teams. Oxen, ploughs, etc., etc., I am pushing it through in true Cali- fornia style and 'twill not last a great while. With all this you may imagine that by the time night comes I am glad to retire to rest.

Sincerely, W.

Sunday, October 27, 1850. Dear V.

Another week has passed away, and I am one week nearer home, although it is now decided that I cannot leave in the steamer of the first. The reason we could not leave then is simply that we could get no money from the city, that you know is an all important item; I now hope by the 12th of next month to secure the main portion of our dues and leave the balance for collection with Jas King of Wm.^^ I leave here on the 12th Nov., on the Steamer Antelope, 'twill take 20 days to reach Panama, then allow four days or a week's detention on the Isthmus, that brings us to the 9th Decem- ber, then say ten days from Chagres to Charleston, that will make it Decem- ber 19th, so that I think on, or about Christmas day you will see me.

A few days since we received the news of our admission into the union, I was on the roof of a high building in Montgomery St. when the Steamer Northerners^ arrived; she came gallantly up the Harbor, gaily decorated with flags and firing minute guns. As she advanced the news was announced in the street below, and never did I see so much rejoicing, every counte- nance beamed with joy, and "God bless the glorious Union" was the response of every heart. In less than five minutes the Star Spangled Banner was waving from every ship in the harbor and every flagstaff on shore. hundreds assembled in the Plaza and patriotic speeches were the order of the day; next Tuesday was appointed as a grand holiday to celebrate the nuptials of the "Bride of the West." The admission of California as a state has given confidence and stability to everything in the shape of business. A few days since a small select party of 'us mounted on steeds at early dawn, and started on a picnic party on the shores of the Pacific. The coast is some eight miles from here, and we had a beautiful ride over hill and dale, hunting as we rode along, the quails were abundant and we saw sev- eral grey wolves and coyotes prowling about. The prime object of our picnic was the discussion of "Clam Soup," and we were armed with all the utensils and instruments necessary on such an occasion. We must have been a picturesque group as we threaded the mountain paths, Indian file, with all the kettles and kitchen fixings at our saddle bows. I couldn't help smiling at the idea of what a nice figure we would have cut anywhere on the shores of the Atlantic. When we arrived at the spot selected and picketed our horses in a pretty little valley we clambered down the rocks to the beach, and a most picturesque place it was. We found we could not have any clams without ducks, for a tremendous surf was rolling in from the ocean, dash- ing over the rocks and throwing the spray and foam in a magnificent style; however at it we went and made the best of the ducking we got, and soon had a kettle full of the "Natives" over a great fire. In short we had glorious appetites, we had glorious good clam soup, and with spoons made of the "purple mussel shell" which "glowed with purple paint without, and shone with silvery pearl within" we ate our stews in "thankful silence" until our appetites somewhat appeased, and our hearts warmed with the good cheer, we took each a cigar, had a succession of stump speeches on the union in which I must say that Clam Soup figured rather largely, and was proved to be indispensably necessary to the preservation of the union, and the benefit of the Constitution. We then took a stroll along the beach and viewed the seals, sea lions and other monsters of the deep, at a respectful distance of course. We then returned to our horses who meanwhile had regaled them- selves on the fresh grass and no doubt enjoyed the holiday as much as our- selves. We had a pleasant ride home by moonlight, and the day will dwell as a green sunny spot in the remembrance of all the party, for t'was a day of pure enjoyment, and our friends at home were not forgotten especially the sweethearts and wives who were pledged in bumpers. At the conclusion of our repast each man took his unique spoon formed of mussel shell and bamboo (the which I claim as my invention) and, raising it aloft, made a vow that said spoon should be preserved till the latest period of life as a sacred relic, so you may expect to see in my cabinet of curiosities when I get home the identical spoon with which I ate Clam Soup on the shores of the Pacific.

Our grand celebration came off finely and surpassed many a display I have seen in our large Atlantic cities, the most attractive feature of the occasion was a large car drawn by six grey horses, and filled with little boys appro- priately dressed each carrying a shield with the name of a state inscribed upon each, in the center of the platform was a raised throne on which sat a beautiful little girl-'^ robed as a queen, in gold, silver and ermine, bearing the shield of California; above floated the stars and stripes, and a flag with the motto, "The bride of the Pacific, we honor her nuptials." This was beautiful indeed, and cheers upon cheers greeted its appearance wherever the procession passed. All went "merry as a marriage bell" until dusk, when a terrible disaster occurred, making a sad finale to this day of rejoicing. The boiler of the steamboat Sagamore burst as she was about leaving the dock crowded with passengers, a more perfect wreck I never saw; the num- ber of lives lost is not yet ascertained and probably never will be, neither can their names be ascertained, and many a heart at home will be made desolate by this disaster and the fate of the loved one ever remain a sealed book.

The new steamer Republic arrived last evening bringing the news that the Galindo was in the port of Acapulco, almost a complete wreck; she experienced a severe hurricane which completely dismasted her and stove all the Boats, in short swept away everything above the bulwarks.

She will no doubt prove a total loss, so that I was lucky in at least one instance in regard to the old Barque, although my self congratulation on the subject reminds me of the Irishman who broke his leg and thanked heaven it was not his neck. Well, peace to her memory. She has carried me safely many a long and dreary mile over the trackless ocean, many a pleasant hour I have passed on board of her, and many a weary one as well. Heaven save me from another such voyage!

. . . Do not tell the folks when I am coming for I would like to surprise them a little, and 'twould be very appropriate to drop in upon them on Christmas, or New Years Day, all the way from California to make a holi- day visit. o- 1

•^ Smcerely yours,

W.

NOTES

1. Cadwalader Ringgold, A Series of Charts, with Sailing Directions, Embracing Sur- veys of the Farallones, Entrance to the Bay of San Francisco, Bays of San Francisco and San Pablo . . . (Washington, 1851).

2. Harry T. Peters, California on Stone (Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, Doran & Company, Inc.), 1935.

3. The bark Galindo, Captain Macy, with 76 passengers and a crew of 12, sailed from New York on April 7, 1849. She had been "furnished in a superior manner, by Messrs. Brett & Vose." Her passenger list, as given in the New York Weekly Herald of April 19, 1849, included the following names: H. N. Adams, J. Arlington, J. E. Baker, J. D. Banker, J. N. Barker, A. Bukman, W. C. Bunting, B. Burdge, Jr., A. Coleman, B. C. Coleman, B. F. Coleman, J. L. Coutant, August Cross, J. Darling, S. R. Derrick, S. L. Derrickson, J. Dobbs, R. Donaldson, W. H. Dougal, S. G. Dunbar, W. H. Force, James Gallon, James T. Gardner (Troy, N.Y.), C. Hamilton, R. Hamilton, S. H. Haskins, Elliot Higgins, William Hines, M. W. Holley, M. Homan, J. E. Hooper, A. H. Jayne, C. F. Jayne, R. S. Jenkins, T. B. Johnson, T. Kindall, C. H. Knapp, George Knight, P. S. Lawson, C. W. Leroy, H. Lorrimer, D. S. Mapes, J. H. H. McClure, A. McDonald, M. Menges, T. Meyneris, J. Miller, H. W. Moore, Constantine Morse, Thomas Nelson, Francis Pasman, J. M. Purves, A. J. Putnam, P. B. Rogers, S. M. Rollins, J. Sacket, T. B. Savage, W. Shepard, W. H. Short, T. W. Skirven, J. Smith, Joseph Smith, M. Smith, S. A. Snow, A. Stubbe, E. G. Terry, J. W. Tyler, J. L. Van Nortwick, A. J. Van Tassel, J. A. Van Tassell, A. Van Waler, Jr., James White, C. R. Wilder, R. F. Williams, A. Wood, J. Young.

4. The log was later destroyed, but a copy is in the possession of a member of the family.

5. Charles P. Kimball, comp.. The San Francisco Directory, September i, 18^0, on p. 37 places Dougal & Graves at the corner of Kearny and Bush Streets, and on p. 53 (after Graves' name) at Kearny and Pine.

6. Charles Hotchkiss is mentioned in "The California Letters of Edward Hotchkiss" in this Quarterly, XII (June 1933), p. 94. A George Hotchkiss was a clerk for Scranton & Smith (op. cit., p. 92), and a Leonard Hotchkiss is mentioned on pp. 93, 94, 100 and 104.

7. Cooke, Baker & Co., commission merchants, on California Street between Mont- gomery and Sansome. Kimball, op. cit., p. 28.

8. See Note 6.

9. "Sanchez Ranch" was the adobe home of the family of Jose Sanchez, grantee under Mexico of Rancho Buri Buri. The building stood near the barns of the present Millbrac Dairy.

10. The "Mission of Saint Mathews" was a large adobe building on San Mateo Creek which would now be at the corner of El Camino Real and Baywood Avenue in San Mateo. It was built by the fathers of Mission Dolores as a mission outpost for the large number of Indians who lived in that vicinity, as a storage place for grain, and as a stop- ping place on the road to Santa Clara. The latter use has caused it to be known locally as "The Hospice." It stood until the earthquake of 1868 and is vaguely remembered by some people still living. Dougal's drawing is the only authentic picture of the building known to exist.

11. At the time of Dougal's visit, a New Yorker by the name of Nicholas de Peyster was operating a "store and public house" in the old adobe "Mission" by San Mateo Creek— hence the milk punch.

12. "Angelo's Ranch," judging by the distances given in the letter, would now be in the vicinity of Menlo Park. Dougal's drawing of it shows only a tent house set up under the oak trees as a stopping place for stagecoaches. There was at this time or later a hotel in Belmont known as Angelo's.

13. "Wistman's Ranch" was probably the J. W. Whisman place, in what would now be the northeastern outskirts of the city of Mountain View.

14. The Sierra Nevada are not visible from this point. Dougal probably applied the name to the Coast Range which borders the Santa Clara Valley and is here dominated by Mount Diablo and Mount Hamilton.

15. This would be the fire of June 14, 1850, which devastated the area between Clay and California Streets from Kearny Street to the waterfront. The two previous fires witnessed by Dougal were on December 24, 1849, and May 4, 1850. A fourth great fire (September 17, 1850) occurred before he left San Francisco.

16. "Mr. K" may refer to James King of William, who is mentioned by name in the letter of October 27. King was a native of Georgetown, D. C, and was well known to both Mr. Dougal and his fiancee, to whom this letter was addressed. Dougal and King kept "bachelor's hall" together in San Francisco, and when Dougal started for home he left his unfinished business affairs in King's hands.

17. The Galindo was one of eleven vessels that had sailed north in March 1850 in an effort to find Trinidad Bay. The town of Trinidad was founded in April 1850 by Cap- tain Robert A. Parker. Owen C. Coy, The Humboldt Bay Region (Los Angeles: Cali- fornia State Historical Association, 1929), pp. 44, 49.

18. The banking house of James King of William, established in December 1849, had survived the run on banks of the "monetary crisis" in September 1850. Frank Soule, John H. Gihon, and James Nisbet, The Annals of San Frajicisco (New York, 1855), pp. 290, 513. See also Note 16.

19. An error for the Oregon. See Soule, op. cit., pp. 293-94.

20. Mary Eliza Davis, later Mrs. George J. Bucknall. It is interesting to compare Dougal's description of the celebration with that of Ernest de Massey in A Frenchman in the Gold Rush (San Francisco: California Historical Society, 1927), pp. 161-62. Dougal's letter, begun on October 27, evidently was not finished until after the 29th.

THE EDITOR OF THE DOUGAL LETTERS

Frank Merriman Stanger will be remembered for his article, "A Califor- nia Rancho under Three Flags," in the September 1938 issue of our Quarterly. A teacher of history at San Mateo Junior College and executive secretary of the San Mateo County Historical Association, Dr. Stanger holds the degree of Ph.D. from the University of California, as well as an A.B. from the University of South Dakota and a degree from the University of San Marcos, Lima, Peru.