Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and Theatrical

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Costume: Fanciful, Historical, and Theatrical  (1906) 
by Eliza Davis Aria

COSTUME

FANCIFUL, HISTORICAL, AND THEATRICAL

Macmillan header ornament.svg

Benoît-Constant Coquelin dressed as Cyrano de Bergerac.jpg

COQUELIN, AS CYRANO DE BERGERAC,
FROM A WATER COLOUR DRAWING BY PERCY ANDERSON.

(Reproduced by special permission.)

COSTUME: FANCIFUL, HISTORICAL AND THEATRICAL

COMPILED BY Mrs. ARIA

ILLUSTRATED BY PERCY ANDERSON

Costume, fanciful, historical, and theatrical - Title Image.jpg

London
MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited
NEW YORK: THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
1906

All rights reserved


Costume, fanciful, historical, and theatrical - Dedication.jpg

INTRODUCTORY NOTE

"It is merely a question of head" said Percy Anderson to me one day whilst we were discussing some easy method of solving a problem in fancy dress.

And he continued:

"Indeed, I would say that, broadly speaking, of all costume. The fashion of any period is distinguished primarily by the way its wearer dresses her hair."

"And chooses her sleeves," I suggested, and received his approval.

We agreed then that we were both most keenly interested in dress, regarding it as one of the fine and essential arts; and we decided that we would try to preach its best doctrines and traditions to the world at large, while we did not ignore the fact that many more worthy had previously enriched literature with the same object. Realising this most acutely, it came to pass that I found myself searching libraries for information which could serve to point my moral, while Mr. Anderson consented to adorn my tale and help me in my endeavour to present concisely, and with as little ceremony and as much simplicity as possible, the main facts of the fashions which have obtained through the centuries.

A few practical details and suggestions are included in the hope that they may obviate some difficulties of those who fret their hour on the stage or at the fancy-dress ball, while, for the benefit of the next generation, I have devoted a small space to personal reminiscences of theatrical heroes and heroines, and to some facts of theatrical dress, as it has been expressed in classic and popular dramas produced by the leading actors and actresses of our time.

E. ARIA.

CONTENTS

Chapter I
PAGE
In Classic Times
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1
Chapter II
In Early Mediæval Times
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10
Chapter III
In the Thirteenth Century
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19
Chapter IV
In the Fourteenth Century
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28
Chapter V
In the Fifteenth Century
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37
Chapter VI
In the Sixteenth Century
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49
Chapter VII
In the Seventeenth Century
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66
Chapter VIII
In the Eighteenth Century
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78
Chapter IX
In the Nineteenth Century
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92
Chapter X
Of British Peasants
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106
Chapter XI
Of some Foreign Peasants
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115
Chapter XII
Of some Foreign Peasants (continued)
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130
Chapter XIII
Of Oriental Dress
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147
Chapter XIV
Of Oriental Dress (continued)
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163
Chapter XV
Of Fancy Dress
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178
Chapter XVI
Of Dominoes and Masks
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190
Chapter XVII
Of Materials, the Corset, and the Crinoline
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201
Chapter XVIII
Of Ceremonial and Bridal Dress
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211
Chapter XIX
Of Dancing Dresses, European and Oriental, Ancient and Modern
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225
Chapter XX
Of Theatrical Dress
.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .
236

ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOURED
    PAGE
Coquelin, as Cyrano dc Bergerac. (From Drawing by Percy Anderson) Frontspeice
In Ancient Greece To face 5
In the Twelfth Century " 12
In the Thirteenth Century " 22
The Queen of Richard II. " 28
A German Student in the Fourteenth Century " 32
Varieties of the Hennin " 40
In the Eighteenth Century " 78
Albanian Peasants " 120
In Corfu To-day " 126
In China of Old " 147
The Seville Orange " 180
An Egyptian Dancer " 226
Isolde " 240
Lewis Waller as Henry V. " 250
Othello " 254
IN THE TEXT
Two Hand-Mirrors 4
A Roman Head — A Greek Head 6
A Roman Lady 7
A Dress laced in the Front — A Dress laced at the Back 11
A Coronet — A Brooch 13
A Plain Wimple 14
A Shoe 15
Dagged Costume in the Twelfth Century 16
A Clasped and Jewelled Girdle—A Cloak-Fastener 18
Henry III.'s Queen 20
A Simple Buttoned Gown 21
A Quaint Wimple 34
The Head-dress of Henry IV.—A Head Drapery held with Plaited Hair 35
Embroidered Gloves 36
An Elaborate Head-dress in the Reign of Henry V 38
Elizabeth of Woodville 39
The Horned Head-dress 41
Head-dress of Jewelled Velvet and Lawn 42
The Houppelande 43
A Girdle—A Pointed Shoe 44
Elizabeth of York 45
In the Time of Henry VII. 52
A Trio of Ruffs 55
Queen Elizabeth in Full Dress 56
A Chemisette 58
An Italian Lady 59
Two Italian Coiffures—An Italian Gentleman 60
A Spaniard in the Sixteenth Century 61
A Shoulder-Jacket 62
The Cape with Buttoned Sleeve 63
Maximilian 64
A Feather and a Chicken-skin Fan 67
A Full Apron 68
The Lace Commode 70
Clogs and Chopines 71
A Mob-Cap 73
Glove with Jewelled Gauntlet 75
A Riding Costume 76
Madame de Pompadour 79
Marie Antoinette 82
A Peignoir 83
A Coiffure 84
A Variety of Head-dresses adopted in the Eighteenth Century 85
A Cap and Hood 87
Some Sticks 89
Some Quaint Examples of Nineteenth-Century Headgear 93
Lady Blessington 99
Lady Blessington — Lady Dalmeny 101
Two Coiffures — Early Victorian Styles 102
In the Nineteenth Century 103
The Austrian Peasant-Bride in Black 123
A Croatian Peasant 124
A Croatian Peasant 125
A Greek Peasant in Mediæval Days 127
A Greek Peasant—A Greek Peasant Woman—A Greek Priest—A Greek Brigand 128
A Westphalian Peasant 142
A Hungarian Peasant in the Seventeenth Century 144
A Chinese Actor 152
A Chinese Peasant 153
An Egyptian Peasant Woman 159
An Egyptian Water-Carrier 160
An Egyptian Peasant 161
An Old Indian Festival Dress 165
A Botticelli Dancing-Dress 181
An Eighteenth-Century Pierrot 183
A South Sea Islander 186
The Knave of Diamonds 187
Miss Ellen Terry as Mistress Page 239
George Alexander as Guy Domville 245
Julian L'Estrange as Hermes 247
Beerbohm Tree as Malvolio 249
Miss Constance Collier as Viola 251
Miss Gertrude Elliot as Desdemona 253
Véronique 255

This work is in the public domain in the United States because it was published before January 1, 1927.


The author died in 1931, so this work is also in the public domain in countries and areas where the copyright term is the author's life plus 80 years or less. This work may also be in the public domain in countries and areas with longer native copyright terms that apply the rule of the shorter term to foreign works.