Dawn and the Dons/HAPPY DAYS

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CHAPTER XII

HAPPY DAYS

THE Spanish days in California were happy days. Want was unknown, and greed of gold was wholly absent. “They attached no value to money,” says Colton, “except as it administered to their pleasures. A fortune, with the facilities of enjoying it, was with them no object of emulation or envy. Their happiness flowed from a fount that had very little connection with their outward circumstances.”

They knew not the multiplied luxuries of today, but they had all for which they cared, or their tastes de They lived and loved; they danced and sang; manded.

they gamboled on their wonderful and delightful playground out of doors; they reveled. in frequent festivals, and found delight in ceremonious courtesies; they watched their flocks and herds fatten on nature’s bounty; and they were content. ELE Viewed in the light of the situation in which these early Californians found themselves, their philosophy of life is not easily condemned. If not thrifty, they were, nevertheless, a happy and contented people, and the gaunt specter of want never cast its shadow across their land. If they lacked the strictness and severity of puritan virtue, they abounded in neighborly friendliness and kindly hospitality. If they paid scant heed to the commercial and industrial opportunities that lay so abundantly about them, who shall say that advancement of their material wealth would have added to their — happiness? They were happy as they were. They were honest and peaceful. Their tastes were in harmony with their available pleasures. In their Arcadia they knew not, and therefore desired not, those costly pleasures which wealth alone can supply. To quote Colton, “There are no people that I have ever been among who enjoy life

so thoroughly as the Californians.

Their habits are

simple; their wants few; nature rolls everything almost spontaneously into their lap. Their cattle, horses and sheep roam at large; not a blade of grass is cut, and none required.” They married young, and took no thought of birth control. Large families were the rule. Richman says, “Children were numerous—thirteen to twenty to a wedded pair—and the deference paid to parents was profound.” And Colton, “The fecundity of the Californian is remarkable, and must be attributed in no ef er one Eon is Bes Oe DLO RENNERANT small degree to the effects of the climate. It is no uncommon sight to find from fourteen to eighteen children at the same table, with their mother at their head. There is a lady of some note in Monterey who is the mother of twenty-two living children.” The respect and deference paid by children to their parents in this early period was the subject of universal | comment by those travelers who visited California, and ere who have left a record of their experiences and observations. In very truth, as Sepulveda so aptly suggests, a unique and distinct social organization developed in this far away, isolated wonderland of the Pacific wholly divergent from those of Mexico and Spain, and in sharp contrast with the puritan developments on the Atlantic side of the continent. And the center of it all was the Monterey peninsula. On the northern side of the peninsula was Monterey, home of the Governor, and seat of governmental author-

ity. Adjoining the town was the Presidio, with its small garrison, typifying the military arm of the government. On the southern side of the peninsula, a few miles away,

near the shore of Carmel Bay, was the Mother Mission, where lived the great Junipero Serra, and whence flowed the missionary activities through which was made easy the subjugation of an alien race. “Monterey,” says Chapman, “as the capital and residence of the Governor, was the most important presidial town. It was the principal resort of provincial society, the place to which the rancher made his way, and to which foreign navigators and traders paid their visits. Life was one continuous round of hospitality and social amenities, tempered with vigorous outdoor sports. There were no hotels in California. Every door was open, and food, lodging, a fresh horse and money even

were

free

to the

guest,

whether

friend or stranger. No white man had to concern himself greatly with work, and even school books were a thing apart. Music, games, dancing and sprightly conversation, these were the occupations of the time, these

constituted education. Also, men and women were much in the open; all were expert horsemen, could throw the

lasso and shoot unerringly, even the women, accomplishments that fitted their type of life, and made hunting a general pastime. When foreign ships came, there were balls and the gayest of festivities; nor were these visits the only occasions for that type of entertainment.” The inauguration of a Governor was a highly ceremonious affair, quite in harmony with the spirit of these ceremony loving people. Richman has given us some of the details of the inauguration of Governor Sola at Monterey in 1816, from which the following is quoted: “It opened in the plaza with a military display under the flag of Castile. Next came a reception at the casa real—royal house. Twenty beautiful senoritas advanced, and kissing the hand of the Governor in the names of their respective families—Estudillo, Vallejo, Estrada and others—received in return sweetmeats from Mexico.

A collation followed, the tables graced with roses, and laden with oranges, pomegranates, figs, olives, dates, cordials and wines. After a feast in the plaza by the populace, space was cleared and bulls and grizzly bears were set upon one another. Two days later, Sola and his suite—cuirrassed cavaliers with shields and lances, and ladies on palfreys, a cavalcade out of the ‘Faery Queen’ itself—set forth to San Carlos Mission, Carmel. The way led through a wood, past stations of the cross. Suddenly there appeared a band of monks, attended by Indian acolytes.

Behind came padres from all over California,

bearing upon a platform an effigy of Christ crucified, and followed by Indians to the number of many hundred. Sola and his officers alighted and kissed the feet of the Christ, and amid the odor of incense from censors

swung by acolytes, entered the Mission.” Then followed a solemn religious ceremony, which

the Indians

presented

a sham

after

battle, and

the

cavalcade returned with due pomp and dignity to Monterey. Occasionally during this period a world traveler would find his way to Monterey. In 1786, the Compte de la Perouse,

noted French scientist, with his company of learned men, was royally entertained both at Monterey and at the Mission at Carmel.

few other noted wanderers

So with Vancouver, and a

of that day, all of who were greatly impressed by the unique conditions in this land of peace and plenty, and some of whom have left a record of their experiences and observations. The Governors sent out from Mexico appeared to enjoy the new and altogther novel surroundings. Governor Borica, appointed in 1794, in one of his letters said, “This is a great country, neither hot nor cold. To live long and without care, one must come to Monterey.”

Nor was the governing of California in those days a difficult task. The white population, small in number, peaceable and law abiding, were permitted to pursue their individual and community pleasures with a minimum of restraint; and the extraordinary work of the Missions made easy the control of the more numerous natives. California’s Governors performed their duties capably and with becoming dignity. Monterey loved to entertain. It was a part of her life. Social

pleasures,

both

indi-

vidual and community, they had in plenty, but they were not theluxurious indulgences, that lead to decadence and / racial decline. If they had ; their grand balls, they had also their festivals, and they

loved the more vigorous outdoor sports. They never flinched before the dangers of the hunt; and the wild, unbroken horse, saddled for the first time, had no terror for them. The men, as a rule, were brave men—and courteous. The women were vivacious—and fascinating. It will add to the development of the picture of that time, and give a more intimate view of these happy people, if we take note of how they dressed. Dana was an unusually close observer, and he had the rare faculty of describing accurately what he saw. The dress or costume of the men, Dana says, was “a broad brimmed hat, usually of a black or dark brown color, with a gilt or figured band around the crown, and lined under the rim with silk; a short

jacket of silk or figured calico—the European skirted body is never

worn; the shirt

open at the neck; rich waistcoat, if any; pantaloons open at the sides below the knee, laced with gilt, usually of velveteen or broadcloth; or

else short breeches and white stockings. They wear the deerskin shoe, which is of a dark brown color, and being made by the Indians, usually a good deal ornamented. They have no suspenders, but always wear a sash around the waist, which is usually red, and varying in quality with the means of the wearer. Add to this the never failing poncho, or serape, and you have the dress of the Californian. “The women wore gowns of various texture, silks, crepe, calicos, etc., made after the European style, except that the sleeves were short, leaving the arms bare, and that they were loose about the waist, corsets not being worn.

They wore shoes of kid or satin, sashes or belts

of bright colors, and almost always a necklace or earrings. Bonnets they had none. They wear their hair, which is almost invariably black, or a very dark brown, long on their necks, sometimes loose, and sometimes in long braids; though the married women often do it up on a high comb. Their only protection against the sun and weather is a large mantle, which they put over their heads, drawing it close around their faces when they go out of doors.

When in the house, or sitting out in front of it, which they often do in fine weather, they usually wear a small scarf or neckerchief of a rich pattern. A band also about the top of the head, with a cross, star or

other ornament in front is also common.” It is interesting to note how the voices of these people impressed Dana.

He says, “Next to the love of dress, I

was most struck with the fineness of the voices, and the

beauty of the intonations of both sexes. It was a pleasure just to listen to the sound of the language before I could attach any meaning toit. . . . Acommon bullock driver, on horseback, delivering a message, seemed to speak as an ambassador at a royal audience.” Many local customs developed. The serenade with the voice and guitar became a popular medium for the transmission of love messages. Charles F. Lummis has collected more than five hundred of the tender ballads as sung by lovelorn youths in the old California days, and has had them sung into the phonograph by capable Spanish singers.

At dances and frolics, the breaking of egg shells filled with spangles or scented water—called

cascarones— upon one another’s heads was considered great fun. The cavalier who could thus oftenest cause a lady to “float in lavender and cologne” was accorded temporary dis-

tinction. And many another social custom, long since vanished and forgotten, characterized the love-making and the merry-making, and added a peculiar, if primitive, charm to the pleasures of that period. Their picnics were gala affairs. Nowhere can there be found

more

delightful retreats,

or more

ideal cli-

matic conditions than on the Monterey peninsula. Here. came the merry picnickers, usually on horseback, to revel in the delights of the sylvan shade. As Colton saw the picture: “I encountered today a company of Californians on horseback bound to a picnic, each with his lady love on the saddle before him. He, as in duty bound, rides behind, throws his feet forward into the

stirrups, his left hand holds the reins, his right arm encircles and sustains her, and there she rides, safe as a

robin in its nest; sprigs of evergreen with wild flowers in her little hat, and large clusters in his.

Away they gallop over hill and valley, waking the wild echoes of the wood.” Nor was picknicking confined to the cavalier and his lady love. It was not uncommon to see an ox-cart, covered with mats, occupied by women and girls, drawn by three or four yoke of oxen, sally forth accompanied by Indian drivers and many dogs. The hallooing of the drivers, the barking of the dogs, and the laughter of the girls made a common chorus. These ox-carts were primitive and cumbersome affairs. Their wheels were cut transversely from the butt ends of trees, with a center hole for the wooden axle. Almost the only means of vehicular

cards were

traffic of that time in California,

sometimes

driven

two hundred

these ox-miles to market. Trees and cattle cost next to nothing, had no special value. Thus ran the days away in that land of springtime, when industry and romance walked together, and pastoral pursuits yielded to merry-making. How difficult it is with mere present a faithful likeness of that uniquely time in a far away land. Probably the most

and time perpetual dreamily frequent words to romantic profound

student of Spanish California, and of the lives, customs

and character of the Californians of that period was Hubert Howe Bancroft, who says, “The Californian ever

aspires to gallantry. Latin peoples are more demonstrative in their manners than Anglo-Saxons, more picturesque in their politeness; the common people more cordial,

and

the better

bred

men

more

gallant.

To

French politeness, Spaniards add chivalrous courtesy. . . They had received but little training, scarcely any education, yet they possessed virtues worthy of record. They were kind hearted and liberal; a person could travel from San Diego to Sonoma without a coin in his pocket, and never want for a roof to cover him,

a bed to sleep on, food to eat, and even tobacco to smoke. . Any stranger traveling through the country could stop at any one of the Missions as long as he pleased. When ready to leave, all he had to do was to tell the padres, and his horses would be ready, with a guide, and also provisions for the road; generally a chicken or two, a boiled tongue, a loaf of bread, boiled eggs, a bottle of wine and a bottle of brandy; and the traveler was at no expense whatever. .. . “One who has become rich by his industry is neither admired nor envied by anyone. Theft is extremely rare. Murder is without example. They do not like work, but are all day in the saddle, looking after their herds and hunting. . . . Reverence and respect for father and mother were carried to the highest degree. This was universal, and deemed a matter of course.”

After saying that no one will question the courage of these early Californians, Bancroft makes the following general comment: “Absolutely unconfined socially and politically, or as nearly so as it were possible for poor, erring humanity to be, who cannot escape a master of some sort, or who make any pretentions to government, religion or social ethics; masters of all their eyes surveyed, the beautiful earth and its fruits as free as the sweet air and sunshine, lands unlimited, cattle on a thousand hills, with ready-made servants to tend them; born here, basking here, with none to molest or make

afraid; with woman

to love, and offspring to rear, and

priest to shrive; with heart full and stomach full; how could they be else than happy, than lovers of home and country ?” So lived and loved these happy people. Their mistake, if mistake it can be called, was in not knowing that the world moves, and that sooner or later, progress was

bound to overtake them. They took no thought of the historic tomorrow. They had an unusual opportunity to build up a great and a strong community; but in the earlier days they saw no need for it, and they had grown too negligent of material things to makeresistance when, at the close of the Mexican period, they saw their land of happiness slipping from them. But they were happy, and that was much. They wrote the most fascinating chapter in California’s wonderful history; and that is a beautiful and a lasting monument

to their delightful memory. And they took out of the realm of figurative speech the theretofore poetic phrase, “An Earthly Paradise.”

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WICODEM

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