Embroidery and Fancy Work/Crochet
CROCHET.
There are very few people who do not understand how to work simple patterns in crochet. The stitch itself is so extremely simple and so well known that a description seems superfluous, but many variations exist, which I will name and describe before proceeding to give any patterns.
Chain Stitch. Make a slip-knot, pass it over the hook, put the thread over the hook, and by a slight movement of the hands, draw the thread that is over the hook through the slip-loop. Draw the thread again through the stitch thus made, and proceed till the chain is of the required length.
Using this chain as a foundation, single crochet is worked thus: put the needle through a foundation stitch, draw the thread through the stitch worked into, and the stitch on the needle, together.
Double crochet: put the needle hook through a foundation stitch, twist the thread over the needle, draw through the foundation, then draw through both loops in the needle together.
Half treble: turn the thread over the needle, pass the needle through a foundation stitch, draw through, turn the thread again over the needle, and draw through all three loops on the needle together.
Treble: put the thread once over the needle, insert the needle into a foundation stitch, draw a loop through; you will then have three on the needle, turn the thread again over the needle, draw through two loops, turn the thread again over the needle, and draw through the two next loops together.
Double treble: put the thread twice over the needle, insert the needle into the foundation, turn the thread over the needle, draw through two loops, put the thread over the needle again, draw through two loops, put the thread over the needle a third time, and draw through the two last loops on the needle.
Cross treble (Fig. 94): Turn the thread twice round the needle, insert the needle into a stitch, turn the thread over the needle, draw through the stitch, turn the thread over the needle, draw through two loops together; turn the thread over the needle, pass over two stitches, insert the needle into the third stitch, draw through, turn the thread over the needle, draw through two loops, pass the thread over the needle, draw through two loops,
Fig. 94.
AFGHAN STITCH OR TRICOT.
Make a foundation chain, the length required, allowing one chain over for the forward row. In this stitch, a row consists of working up and off the loops.
Insert the needle into the second stitch of chain, draw up a loop, keep it on the needle, and continue to draw up a loop through each of the following chain stitches. In working off, put the thread over the needle, draw through the last loop, * put the thread again over the needle, and draw through two loops on the needle together. Repeat from * to the end of the row,
In the second and following rows, work up the loops through the front perpendicular loop of each stitch of previous row, commencing with second perpendicular loop. The last loop of a tricot row appears to lie somewhat at the back of the work. Care must be taken to work it, or a straight edge cannot be obtained.
BASKET PATTERN TRICOT.
Fig. 95.
Make a chain of the length required.
1st row: Work up a loop through the first stitch, work one chain through the loop, repeat until all the loops are worked up. In working off, work through a loop. Slip each alternate loop off the hook, work three chain between the loops worked through.
2d row: Pass the slipped-off loop at the back of the chain; draw up a loop through it, then work one chain through the loop, draw up a loop through the next loop, and under the chain, work one chain through the loop. Repeat from the beginning of the row until all the loops are worked up; the loops are worked off as described for the first row.
The second row is repeated throughout. Remember that in afghan stitch, or tricot, working up and off, is reckoned as one row.
TUFT STITCH.
Fig. 96.
1st row: One double into each foundation stitch.
2nd row: * One double into a stitch: draw up a loop through the next stitch, draw the right side of the loop with the finger and thumb of the left hand, over the left side of the loop (see arrow), insert the hook into the loop thus held by the finger, draw up a loop, turn the thread over the hook, draw up another loop, draw through five loops on the hook together, work up a loop through the last stitch worked into, draw through both loops on the hook together. Repeat from *
These two rows are repeated throughout, arranging the tuft stitches so that they lie between each other in alternate rows; this is done by commencing one pattern row with the double, and the other with a tuft stitch.
MUSCOVITE TRICOT.
Fig. 97
1st row: Work up the loops as for ordinary tricot, work off the first loop, * three chain, work off the two next loops. Repeat from *
2nd row: Work up the loops like last row, * three chain, work off two loops. Repeat from * to the end of the row. These two rows are repeated alternately.
CARRIAGE MAT WITH FOOT WARMERS IN MUSCOVITE TRICOT.
It will be found convenient in working this mat, to cut a paper pattern of the exact size wanted, on which the work may be measured from time to time, to see that the centre and border are duly proportioned. It is also much easier to work the centre and border separately.
Mark upon the paper the size you wish the centre to be, and make a chain a little longer to allow for taking up in working; with the dark olive wool work in Muscovite tricot.
Cut patterns also of the foot muffs fitting the crochet to them. The border is also in Muscovite tricot, worked with the light olive wool; it must be shaped at the corners by working three stitches into one in each row; it is joined to the centre by a needle and wool. The foot-warmers are worked with the darkest shade, and are lined throughout with looped knitting For the looped knitting, cast on as many stitches as are required for the top of foot-warmers with red wool.
1st row: Knit.
2nd row: Knit one, take a ball of the darkest olive wool and pass the end between the first and second
Fig. 98.
stitches, knit the second stitch, pass the wool back, leaving a loop of about one and a half inch. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
Each alternate row is knitted plain; this makes the loops of wool on the same side each time. Work the looped knitting to the shape of foot-warmer, and also to fit the bottom of mat over which the foot-warmer is sewn; the necessary decrease must be made by knitting two stitches together at the end of the row. A band of looped knitting, about eight stitches in width, is sewn across the top of the foot- warmers.
For the crochet edge:—
1st row: Work with dark olive one double into a stitch at the edge of border. Pass over ope stitch, one double, one half treble, one treble, one half treble, and one double into next stitch, pass over one stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
2nd row (with red wool): One double into the first double of last row, one single into each stitch of scallop. Repeat.
Directions for making the balls will be found on page 214. They are of red wool and are sewn to the border by a needle and wool. The card for balls should be cut to the size of a fifty-cent piece. The rug must be lined with red baize to the edge of the border of point Muscovite.
CROCHET FRINGE.
This pretty fringe is suitable for ornamenting wood baskets, waste-paper baskets, etc.; it is worked with fine olive cord and dark crimson Berlin wool.
To commence, make a chain the length required with a crochet hook, No. 8 (Walker's bell gauge), and the cord.
1st row: One double into a stitch, three chain, pass over three stitches and repeat.
2nd row: One double into first of three chain, eight chain, one double into last of next three chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row. For the heading: Work one double into a stitch, three chain, pass over two stitches, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
The tassels are made by turning wool eighteen times
Fig. 99.
To make the little fluffy balls so much used in connection with crochet in wools, cut two circular pieces of card board, regulating the size by the size it is desired to have the balls. For ordinary use, a fifty cent piece would be a good guide. Cut a hole in the centre, and with a needle and wool sew evenly over both cards until the central hole is quite filled up. Cut the wool between the cards with a sharp penknife or scissors, and tie the wool tightly in the centre between the cards. Remove the cards, rub the ball in the hand, steam it over boiling water, and trim the edges with a pair of scissors.
Good parlor balls for children can be made with single or double Zephyr wool of all colors over cards measuring four inches in diameter, with a hole in the centre one and a half inches in diameter, tied strongly between the discs with fine twine. Fig. 100 shows the ball before the discs are removed.
Fig. 100.
BEADED TRICOT.
Make a chain of the required length, and work one row of plain afghan stitch. Then in the next row, * work up stitch; work up second stitch and make three chain; put the needle through the same stitch the chain started from, throw the wool round the needle and pull it through last two stitches, repeat from * to the end of row, working off the stitches as usual.
In the next row reverse the order of the beads.Geometrical figures can be worked by means of these beads on a ground of plain tricot. It is a useful stitch for quilts, children's afghans, etc.
Another way of ornamenting a plain ground of close crochet, whether tricot or plain double crochet, is an imitation of tatting, and is worked as follows.
Work three chain, then make a loop over left forefinger in such a way that the end connected with the spool or ball will be in front; insert needle over the front and under the back thread, draw up the thread on the needle as a knot; change the arrangement of the loop on the left hand, so that the ball end of the thread will be at the back; pass the hook under the back thread (which will be the first counting from the needle), and over the front or second thread; draw up as a knot. A little difficulty may be experienced at first in making these knots lie smoothly, but practice will render it easy. Work nine double knots, then put the thread round the needle and draw through all the knots; put the thread round the needle, and draw through the last stitch on the needle. This forms an eyelet like those made with a tatting shuttle. In using this stitch in connection with tricot, three worked up stitches take the place of the three chain stitches which are worked between the "tatting" loops.
STAR STITCH.
Make a chain the length required, draw up a loop through each of five successive stitches, draw through all the loops on the needle, close the cluster with one chain, * draw up a loop under the last chain, another through back perpendicular of last stitch, and one through each of the two next stitches, draw through all the loops on the hook together, close with one chain. Repeat from * to the required size. For the edge in the illustration:
1st row: One double into every stitch. 2nd row: One double into a stitch, * pass over two stitches, eight trebles under next stitch. Repeat from *
Fig. 101.
TO JOIN AFGHAN STRIPES OF TWO COLORS.
The ends of the two colored wools should be joined, and then a chain of three be made on one, and this crocheted into the first two stitches of the held together stripes; then a chain of three made on the other wool and crocheted into the next two stitches, alternating the colors through the length of the stripes. In case of a Roman stripe two colors contrasting harmoniously with all the colors used in the stripes should be taken. Black and yellow are generally useful for such stripes.
Petticoat for child of one year old.
Fig. 102.
Materials required, six ounces white and one ounce scarlet Berlin wool (crochet-hooks Nos. 10 and 12). The waist and skirt are worked separately. It is best worked to a paper pattern. With the white wool and hook No. 12 begin the bodice on the button side of the back. For a child of the age mentioned a chain of about thirty-six inches will be required. Work as follows: one treble into the back horizontal stitch of each loop; increase by working twice into each stitch at the bottom of every other row to make the slope at the bottom of the waist. To shape the armhole pass over two stitches at the commencement of one row, and at the end of the next row until you have worked to the centre of armhole, then increase in the same proportion that you decreased. Work straight across the front without increase or decrease; the other armhole and back are worked in the same way as described for the first side.
For the skirt, work with the same hook:
1st row: One double into each stitch at the edge of waist; join round.
2nd row: One double into each of three stitches; two chain, repeat.
3rd row: One double into each stitch, three doubles into each chain stitch. Repeat.
4th row: One double into each stitch at right side of the scallop, three doubles into the centre stitch, and one double into each stitch at the other side of the scollop. This last row is to be repeated nine times more; then with hook No. 10 nine rows more, three of these in scarlet, and two with white; this finishes the skirt.
For the trimming at the top of the waist, work one double into a stitch at the edge, five chain, one treble into the first, pass over three stitches and repeat. When worked, the treble between the chains should be parallel with the top of the waist.
2nd row: One single with scarlet wool into each stitch of the last row. This is for the edge that turns down.
For the stand up edge:—
1st row: Work one treble into stitch at the edge of waist, five chain, one treble into the first chain stitch (this forms the bottom of the scollop), pass over three stitches, two trebles into the next two stitches, five chain, one treble into the first, pass over three, and repeat.
2nd row: One double into each stitch of last end with scarlet wool. Run ribbon in and out through the trebles and tie in a bow. The same edging is worked round the armholes.
SHAWL IN CROCHET.
Make a very loose chain as long as you want your shawl square, say nearly two yards long. Turn and make three trebles in the seventh loop of chain. * Then skip four chain, and make one double crochet in fifth chain, then make three chain, then three trebles in same chain that you made one double crochet in. Then skip four chain, and make one double crochet in fifth chain and repeat from * to the end of the row. After making three trebles in last chain you turn and make three chain; then make one * double chain in the last three chain of the previous row; make three chain, then make three treble in the same place you made the last double crochet. Make one double crochet in the next three chain, and repeat from * . Make a border of shell stitch after the shawl is square. Use a very coarse ivory needle for the shawl.
INFANT'S SACQUE IN SHELL STITCH.
Make a chain of one hundred stitches for a foundation. 1st row: Crochet across a row of open trebles, i. e., one chain between each and skipping one stitch in the foundation, fifty trebles in all.
2nd row: Turn the work and crochet back making a shell of two trebles each, between each treble of first row, forty-eight shells.
3rd row: Widen for the shoulders by crocheting three trebles in the eleventh and twelfth shells from each edge.
4th row: Plain, except to make two shells in each place where it was widened in the preceding row. Continue widening every other row on the shoulders until you have widened five times, being careful to widen directly under the shell where you widened first.
8th row: Widen in the two shells in the centre of the back in the same way as you did for the shoulders. In widening the back widen always in the two centre stitches (not as on the shoulders).
12th row: Crochet eleven shells, then back to the first side, dropping all the shells between the widening shells for a shoulder gore — skip ten shells for part of the hole. Crochet two rows on the back the same way (there should be thirty shells for the back and eleven shells on each front); join under the armhole with four chain stitches and work three shells into these chains in the 14th row.
Crochet eleven rows across, widening every third row in the centre of the back and finish with a border of shells all around it. The shells in the border are of three trebles into every other shell and a double crochet into the shell between. The neck has an extra row of shells before the border row. For the sleeve, commence under the arm and crochet twelve rows of shells into the armhole and finish with the border.
This is pretty made in two colors, using one for the body and the other for a border in this way:
20th row: Join the border color and crochet two rows, then one row of the body color, then two rows of the border color all around the edge of the sacque, and then finish with the shells of three trebles.
Run a cord with tassels or a ribbon through the holes at the neck, and you will have a neat sacque very rapidly and easily made.
Materials required— about three ounces of Saxony yarn — two of one color, one of the other.
CROCHETED GLOVES.
Four ounces of German fingering, with steel hook No. 12 (about equal in size to a No. 16 knitting-needle as sold in the stores) will make a full-sized, warm and comfortable gentleman's over-glove. The same quantity of Andalusian or Saxony, and a hook three or four sizes smaller, will make a lady's size glove.
Make a chain of seventy-three stitches, work seventy-two DC (double crochet) on it, unite into a ring and work six rounds of DC.8th round: Five DC, one DC between the next two stitches to increase for the thumb, sixty-seven DC.
In every successive round increase one on each side this one stitch for the thumb, until you have thirty extra stitches. Then finish the thumb as follows:
A DC on each of these thirty stitches, then eighteen chain and join to the first DC of the thirty. On the next round work forty-eight DC. In every round after this, miss the first and last of the eighteen extra DC; this forms a gusset. When the stitches have been reduced to the original thirty, work fifteen rounds plain—that is in DC, without any decreasings. From this point of the thumb work three DC, miss the next, and repeat this round and round till only four stitches are left. Finish the thumb by working these four stitches at once, and fasten off on the side.
Now return to the hand. In addition to the original seventy-two stitches, there were eighteen added for the thumb gusset. On these ninety stitches work sixteen rounds of DC, and then divide them for the fingers, fifty stitches for the back of the hand and forty for the front.
For the first finger work twelve DC from the back, eleven from the front, make ten chain, and join to the first DC. On the next round work thirty-three DC, and in succeeding rounds miss the first and last of the extra ten chain until only twenty-three at left. On these twenty-three stitches work twenty rounds plain DC—or till the finger is long enough. Then decrease and finish off as directed for the thumb.
For the second finger take twelve from the back, ten from the front, add a chain of ten as before, and use the ten chain of the forefinger gusset for the other side of the finger—forty-two stitches in all, with a gusset often chain on each side of the finger. Decrease on each of these ten chain as directed for the first finger, till two stitches are left, then work twenty-three rounds plain, and taper and finish off as before.
Work the third finger the same as the second, but work twenty plain rounds only—not twenty-three rounds. The remaining twenty-three stitches are for the last finger which only has a gusset on the side next to the preceding finger. Decrease on this gusset till only twenty-two stitches are left, work eighteen rounds plain, and then finish off as before.
The second glove is made in the same manner, care being taken to make them right and left by reversing the stitches for front and back.
THE CUFF.
Hold the work with the right side outside, begin where the chain is joined, and work a row of looped crochet. Break off at the end. Do ten more rows. On the 11th row increase at each end, also in the 15th, 19th, 24th and 29th rows. Work thirty three rows in all and finish. Sew in neatly all the ends; sew on a piece of strong leather, and insert a spring.
The backs of the gloves can be embroidered in any simple stitch.
CROCHET COLLAR AND CUFF.
Fig. 103.
For the cuff make a chain of forty-four stitches.
1st row: Pass over six stitches, one treble into the seventh, two chain, pass over one stitch, * one double into the next, two chain, pass over two stitches, two trebles separated by three chain into the next, two chain, pass over two stitches, one double into the next, repeat from * five times more, * two chain, pass over two stitches, one treble into the next, three chain, one treble into the same stitch; turn.
2nd row: Three chain, one treble under three chain of last row, * five chain, two trebles separated by two chain under next three chain, repeat from * five times more; turn.
3rd row: Four chain,* two trebles separated by three chain under two chain, two chain, one double into centre of five chain, two chain, repeat from * five times more, two trebles separated by two chain under two chain; turn.
4th row: Three chain, one treble under two chain, * five chain, two trebles separated by two chain under three chain, repeat from * five times more, one chain, thirteen trebles under four chain, one double into first row of pattern (see design); turn.
5th row: Fourteen trebles each separated by one chain between the trebles of last row and under the one chain, one chain, * two trebles separated by two chain under two chain, two chain, one double into centre of five chain, two chain, repeat from * five times more, two chain, two trebles separated by two chain under the chain at the turn of last row; turn.
6th row: Three chain, one treble under two chain, * five chain, two trebles separated by five chain under two chain, repeat from * five times more, two chain, fourteen trebles, each separated by one chain between the trebles of last row; turn.
7th row: Two chain, fourteen half trebles each separated by two chain between the trebles of last row, three chain, * two trebles separated by three chain under two chain, two chain, one double into centre of five chain, two chain, repeat from * five times more, two chain, two trebles under the chain at the turn of last row. Repeat from second row for the length required.
For the edge, work one-half treble under the two chain at the turn of the last row, one-half treble under the fourth two chain on next scollop, * three chain, one-half treble under next two chain, repeat from * eight times more, three chain, then repeat from the beginning of the row.
For the narrow part used for the corner of collar, work the four repeats of the first patterns of the first and second rows alternately.
NARROW EDGING.
Fig. 104.
This edging is worked in the width, a heading being crocheted on afterwards.
Make a chain of nine stitches, join in a round, make two chain, three trebles into the ring, keep the top loop of each on the hook, and draw through altogether; six chain, one single into the first, three trebles into the foundation ring, keep the top loop of each on the hook, and draw through altogether; two chain, one single into the foundation loop. Repeat.
For the heading: Two trebles under the chain of nine, four chain. Repeat from beginning of row.
Fig. 105 is an edging of feather edge or mignardise
Fig. 105.
braid and crochet. Care should be taken in choosing the braid, which should be fine and firm. No. 0 is a very good number. I have found that this kind of crochet washes much better when worked rather loosely, although it is not quite so handsome at first as when crocheted together.
Begin with the leaf line; work one double into a mignardise picot; eight chain; fasten to third picot of mignardise; work back on the eight chain; one double, five treble, and one double. This finishes one leaf. Three chain, six chain, fasten to second picot, one double, four treble, and one double for this leaf. Three chain, five chain, fasten to second picot; work one double, three treble, and one double. Nine chain, one double into third picot; * one treble into following picot, seven chain, one single into picot last treble was worked into. Repeat from * twice more, then work as before described, but in reversed order; then repeat again from the beginning.
For the other side, one chain, two double into two following picots (see design), eight chain, twist the cotton three times round the hook, one double into picot (see design), twist the cotton twice round the hook, one double into next picot; again twist the cotton twice round the hook, one treble passing over one picot, twist the cotton three times round the hook, three treble (see design). The loops on the hook must now be worked off, and the treble and double stitches worked opposite to those already worked; finish with a row of alternately one chain and one treble.
D'OYLEY: WAVED BRAID AND CROCHET.
Fig. 106.
Begin the work between the slanting line of braid and the lower left-hand point of the outer circle (see Fig. 107). Count the points of braid and place them as shown in No. 107. Work one double in the seventh and eighth points together, two chain. Join these two pieces of braid together by working one double into each of the four points on both sides together (see design). Fasten off.
* Now work one double into the second point from the top of left-hand side of braid, two chain, one double into next point, one chain, one double into next point, one chain, one treble into each of the three next successive points of the braid, one chain, one double into each of the three next points of the braid, join to the first double of this inner side of point, and fasten off (with a needle, to secure the cotton and make the work neat). Between the small points, which come alternately, join with a needle and cotton, working with it two chain between the points. Repeat from * until you have eight complete points (see No. 107).
For the inside of the pattern work one double into the first inner left-hand point of braid, six chain, one double into the next inner point, twelve chain, one double into next point, six chain, one treble into each of three next inner points, six chain, one double into the next point, six chain, one single into the centre of twelve chain, six chain, one double into the next point, four chain, one single into the second of first six chain, two chain, one double into the lower point. This completes the inner part; fasten off.
The braid is carried across to begin the next outer pattern in the same place as the last.
Leave eight clear points on the lower side of the braid, and begin the next circle. (Ten circles are needed for the d'oyley).
After working between the first two lines of braid for the next circle, work on the outer side of the points of braid left between the two circles, two chain, one treble into each of the five joints. The double-trebles and chain-stitches between the circles will be more easy to work from the design than from description when all the ten outer circles are worked and joined.
Fig. 107.
For the border, work one treble into first outer point of circle (see right-hand side of Fig. 107), three chain, one single into next point, eight chain, one single in the fourth, three chain, one single into next point, six chain, one single into fourth, two chain, one single into next point, * eight chain, one single into the fourth, three chain, one single into next point of braid. Repeat from * twice more. Six chain, one single into fourth, two chain, one single into next point. Eepeat between the two last **. Six chain, one single into the fourth, two chain, one single into the next point, eight chain, one single in the fourth, three chain, one single in the next point five chain, one treble into next point, seven chain. Repeat from the beginning of the edge.
For the middle of d'oyley, join the braid neatly with a needle and cotton to the piece of braid the first circle was begun with. Count the points of braid in No. 107, and arrange them as shown in the cut. The straight inner lines of braid lying together are sewn to the two middle points of the braid, which connect the circles. The inner lines are worked with two chain, one double into the two points lying together. Repeat nine times more; this finishes the straight centre lines.
The chain-stitches in the centre of each division can be easily worked from the design.
For the middle star, five chain, join round.
1st Round: Two chain, one treble; repeat four times more.
2nd Round: Five chain, one double under the two chain, five chain, one double under the same; repeat all round.
3rd Round: Seven chain, one double under the five chain.
4th Round: Five chain; one double in the centre of five chain. Join to the centre point of braid; five chain, one double in the centre of next five chain; join to the next centre point of braid. Repeat all round.The bag illustrated in Fig. 108, is made of plush or satin, and decorated with crochet worked in single strips
Fig. 108.
as in Fig. 109. This pattern is worked in strips on a foundation of single chain the length of the bag, and sewn or crocheted together at the points. These
Fig. 109.
strips are in turn sewed to a foundation of double crochet the length of the bag. The bag from which this pattern was taken was of olive green plush lined with satin of the same color, the crochet was worked in gold spangled thread, and the balls were of Hamburgh work in two shades of olive green, but the effect of the crochet would be very good if done in very fine seine twine, or coarse écru linen thread. A very pretty tidy could be made of fine seine twine crocheted after this pattern and arranged as in the bag, colored ribbon being run through the open work. The ends should be finished with a tied in fringe.
HAIRPIN WORK OR CROCHET GIMP.
This is worked over a fork shaped like a large
Fig. 110.
hairpin. It should be made of stout wire, copper being preferable. For narrow work, one of the pins used for crimping the hair would do, but for some patterns it is desirable to have a wider fork. The gimp is very useful for making various handsome edgings being crocheted into different patterns after the manner of mignardise braid. Pretty breakfast caps can be made of lengths worked from the following pattern and sewed together, one length being sewed around as a border. Make a slip-loop, pass it over one side of the fork, bringing the knot in the middle of the fork, turn the fork round, and you will have a loop on each side. Draw up a stitch through the first loop, make one chain, * take out the hook, turn the pin and insert the hook in the stitch from which it was withdrawn, work one double under left-hand loop. Repeat from *
BAG FOR SOILED LACES IN HAIRPIN - WORK AND CROCHET.
This bag is composed of lengths of hairpin-work of fawn-colored cotton, joined with crochet chain worked in scarlet. For the hairpin-work, commence by making a loop in the cotton, pass it over one side of the fork, turn the fork, the cotton will form a loop over the other side of the fork, insert the hook in the first loop, draw up a loop, * work two doubles into the left-hand loop, take out the hook, turn the fork from left to right, draw up a loop through the stitch from which you withdrew the hook, then repeat from *. Make fourteen lengths of hairpin-work, twelve inches in length, with fawn cotton. Then work a length of fifteen inches to form the border; join the fourteen lengths by working with scarlet cotton one double into two loops of hairpin-work, three chain; take another length, * one double into six loops together, three chain, one double into six loops of first length, repeat from *, working from side to side the length of the work; all the lengths are joined in the same way. For the bottom a circle of fifteen inches in circumference is needed; this is made by joining seven graduated lengths of hairpin-work together. The centre length measures five and a half inches, the lengths on each side being gradually narrower; this is joined by a needle and thread to the upper part of bag.
For the trimming covering the join, see Fig. 111.
Work one double into six loops, three chain, one double into the end of a length of hairpin-work, three chain, one double into next six loops together, three chain, one double into the double worked into two loops, three chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
Fig. 111.
For the edge: Work one double into six loops together, six chain, one single into the third, three chain. Repeat. A wire is run through the top of trimming (see design), to keep the bag in a round form. The top of bag is drawn together by running strings of ribbon.
EDGING OF HAIRPIN-WORK AND CROCHET.
Make a piece of hairpin-work about the length required for the edging.
For the edge of the trimming: One single into a loop of hairpin-work, three chain, one single into the first chain, one chain, one single into each of fifteen loops of hairpin-work, three chain, one single into first picot, one chain, one single into second of three chain, one chain, * one double into a loop hairpin-work, five chain, one double into second chain, one chain, repeat from * six times more, then repeat from beginning of the row.
For the heading:—
1st row: One chain, one single, separated by one chain into each of three loops of hairpin-work in the depth of a scallop, one single into each of nine loops, one single separated by one chain into each of three next loops, one chain, one single into first chain; fasten the cotton off securely, and work the same in the depth of each scallop. A reference to the illustration while working this will make the directions quite plain.
2nd row: One triple treble under the chain in the depth of the scallop, three chain, one double treble through the next two loops of hairpin together, three chain, one treble through two next loops together, three chain, one double treble through two next loops together three chain. Repeat from beginning of row.
3rd row: One treble separated by one chain into each alternate stitch of last row.
BORDER IN HAIRPIN- WORK AND CROCHET FOR SHETLAND OR EIS WOOL SHAWL.
Fig. 112.
A fork two inches across is required for the hairpin-work, and in making it, two double are crocheted instead of one double between each turning of the fork.
When you have made the length required (using Shetland or Eis Wool), work as follows:
1st row: One double through twenty-two loops of hair-pin-work together, crossing as in illustration by taking the second eleven loops on the needle before the first eleven, seven chain, one single into centre of hairpin-work (see design), seven chain. Repeat from beginning of row.
2nd row: Draw up three loops through double of last row, leave the loops standing out, work one double into the same stitch, two chain, pass over two stitches, one single into the next, five chain, one single into the double of last row, five chain. Repeat from the beginning of last row.
3rd row: One double into the three loops that were left standing up of last row, three chain, one single into each of the three next successive stitches, draw up three loops through the next.
4th row: One single into the second of three chain of last row, four chain, one double into the next three loops together, four chain, one single into second of three chain, five chain, pass over four stitches, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
5th row: One single into the third of four chain of last row, two chain, take another length of hairpin-work and work one single into a centre stitch, then one single into the double of last row, two chain, pass over one stitch, one single into the next, three chain, one double into twenty-two loops of hairpin-work together, cross the loops as in the first row, three chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
For the heading: Work a row like the first on the other side of hairpin-work, then work one double into double worked in the loops of hairpin-work, ten chain, and repeat.
For the edge:— 1st row: Like the first row worked on the other side.
2nd row: Draw up three loops through the double worked into the hairpin-loops, six chain, one double into next double, six chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
3rd row: Draw up three loops through the first of six chain, six chain, one double into next double, six chain, draw up three loops through the last of six chain, one single into three loops. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
4th row: One single through the first three loops together, and draw up three loops through the same loops, five chain, one double into next double, five chain, work up three loops through next three loops together, two chain, work up three loops through the last chain, one chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
5th row: Work up three loops through the first three loops of last row, four chain, one double into next double, four chain, work up three loops through the next three loops together, one chain, work up three loops through this stitch, one single through the next three loops together, one chain, work up three loops through this chain, and repeat from the beginning of the row.
6th row: Work up three loops through first three loops together, six chain, one double into next double, five chain, one single into first of six chain, five chain, one double into the same stitch last double was worked into, five chain, work up three loops through next three loops together, one chain, work up three loops through the chain, work up three loops through the next three loops together, one chain, work up three loops through the chain, work up three loops through the next three loops together, one chain, work up three loops through the chain. Repeat from the beginning of the row.
7th row: One single into the first of five chain of last row, one single through the three loops together, three chain, one single through the same three loops, repeat from * five times more, then repeat from the beginning of the row. Figure 113 shows a very pretty way of trimming a
Fig. 113.
wicker work basket with hairpin-work and tassels. The basket has a full lining of silk. It is easier to line the sides first, sewing the upper edge of the lining on and turning it over so as to conceal the seam. Then cut a piece of stiff paper or cardboard exactly fitting into the bottom of the basket, cover it with the silk used for lining the basket, and either fasten it in place by means of a little gum or glue, or catch it down with a few stitches.
In the pattern basket, the hairpin-work (Figure 114)
Fig. 114.
was done with Berlin wool and gold thread while the tassels were of silk. The hairpin-work is made in two widths, and sewed together. In the widest, three double are crocheted between each turn of the fork. The tassels are made by winding silk or wool round a card of the requisite width. After a sufficient quantity is wound, take a worsted needle threaded with the wool, doubled, pass through the upper edge, and tie tightly (having removed the card), tie again a short distance from the top. Cut the lower edge or not as you fancy. Some comb the tassels which makes them soft and fluffy; when this is done they should be made rather extra large as the combing reduces the size.
Another variety of crochet gimp is worked over a wooden fork, having one side much wider than the other.
It can be easily whittled from soft wood and sand-papered until perfectly smooth. To make the fringe shown in Figure 115 make a loop of wool, pass it over the narrow side of the fork, turn the fork, and you will have a loop over the wide side; draw up a stitch through the first loop on the hook, turn the fork, draw up a stitch through the narrow loop, draw through both loops on the hook together. Repeat from * for the length required.
Fig. 115.
For the crochet heading, which is worked with a lighter color of wool:
1st row: One double into of the wide loops of the fork, work together, turning the loops as shown in Fig. 115, two chain. Repeat.
2nd row: One double under two chain, three chain. Repeat.
For the edge: Work one double into two of the small loops (see cut), five chain, repeat. Strands of wool, about one and a half inches deep, are knotted into the loop of five chain to form tassels; a little ball of the lightest shade of wool is sewn under the heading at equal distances.
This fringe could be made deeper by fastening two or more rows of the hairpin-work together, before crocheting the heading and edge. The loops of each should be twisted as in the design in this case. This would form a suitable trimming for such a small round table as is shown in Figure 139, page 303. The top of the table can be covered with plush or felt.
Figure 116 shows a basket work stand with trimming
Fig. 116.
made of fork work after design in Figure 117, the wide loops being caught together at regular intervals with woolen balls. The same trimming can be used on various shaped baskets. Used as an edging for a band of embroidered felt it would be very pretty for a trash basket. It could also be used as an edging for a table or mantel drapery.
Fig. 117.
EDGING IN HAIRPIN-WORK AND CROCHET.
Fig. 118.
Make the length required in ordinary hairpin-work. Then work
One double in a loop of hairpin-work, three chain, one double in the next, two chain, one double in the next, one chain, put the hook through eight loops of hairpin-work, pull through with one single, one chain, one double in the next loop of hairpin-work, two chain, one double in the next loop; turn, four chain, one double in the first of the first two chain, turn and work five double under the four chain, one double into the next loop of hairpin-work, three chain, one double into the next loop. Repeat.
For the edge round the scallop begin in the deep part of scallop. Work two loops together four times in succession with one double, taking four loops from one side and four from the other, separated by three chain, one double into six successive loops, three chain. Repeat from beginning of row.
ANOTHER EDGING.
Make the length required in hairpin-work.
1st row: * One double in three successive loops of hairpin-work with one chain between, twelve chain, one single through nine successive loops of hairpin-work, two chain., one single in the ninth of twelve chain, two chain, one single in the sixth of twelve chain, five chain; repeat from *.
2nd row: One treble in the first double of last row, two chain, pass over two, one treble in the next.
For the edge, begin in the depth of the scallop, * one double in four successive loops of hairpin-work, five picots (of five chain, one double in the fourth) with one double after each picot in five successive loops of hair-pin-work, three double in three successive loops of hair-pin-work; repeat from *.
CROCHET EDGING.
This edging is very pretty for trimming underclothing when fine crochet cotton is used, and in seine twine will make a good edge for draping a mantle or bracket. A very serviceable tidy can be made from this pattern also by repeating the shells and open work (omitting the scallops), until the required width is worked. When the tidy is long enough, cast off, tie fringe of the cord into the bottom and run satin ribbon through the open work stripes. The edging is worked as follows:
Fig. 119.
1st row: Nineteen chain stitches.
2nd row: Three double stitches on eleventh chain, two chain, three double on next stitch, three chain, one single chain on the fourth following stitch, three chain, three double chain on the fourth following, two chain three double chain on the next stitch.
3rd row: Two chain, six double, the middle two of which are separated by two chain, on the two chain between six double chain on preceding row, three chain one single crochet on single crochet of preceding row, three chain, six double, the middle two of which are separated by two chain on the next two chain between six double two chain, one double on middle of next five chain.
4th row: Five chain, six double, separated by two chain as in preceding row, on the next two chain between six double, seven chain, six double as before on the next two chain between six double chain.
5th row: Three chain, six double as before on the next two chain of preceding row, three chain, one single crochet on the middle of next seven chain, three chain, six double as before on the next two chain between six double, two chain, one double on the middle of next five chain.
6th row: Five chain, six double as before on the next two chain between six double, three chain, one single crochet on the next single crochet, three chain, six double as before on the next two, one chain, seven double separated each by one chain on the next three chain, one chain, one single on the chain before the next six double at the beginning of third row.
7th row: Six times alternately five chain, one single crochet on the next chain between two double in the receding row; then five chain, one single on the chain before the next six double, two chain, six double as before on the next two chain, seven chain, six double as before on the next two chain, two chain, one double on the middle of the next five chain.
Continue the pattern in the manner of the last four rounds, observing, however, that the pattern figure of the open work middle strip only comprises three rounds, while the other part of the edging requires four rounds.
It will be an easy matter to make this pattern deeper by repeating the shells and open strip.