How To Take Measurements
HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS
SUPPLEMENT TO REGULAR CATALOG
THE INCOMPARABLE STAY
NOT SOLD IN STORES
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY
MEADVILLE, PA., U. S. A.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF CANADA, Ltd. Niagara Falls, Ontario.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF GREAT BRITAIN, Ltd.
Letchworth (Garden City,) England
Copyrighted 1912 by The Spirella Company
THIS BOOKLET IS FURNISHED BY THE SPIRELLA COMPANY FOR THE USE OF ITS CORSETIERES ONLY. IT IS NOT TO BE HANDED OUT AS ADVERTISING MATTER
HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS
SUPPLEMENT TO REGULAR CATALOG
THE INCOMPARABLE STAY
NOT SOLD IN STORES
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY
MEADVILLE, PA., U. S. A.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF CANADA, Ltd.
Niagara Falls, Ontario.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF GREAT BRITAIN, Ltd.
Letchworth (Garden City,) England
THIS Booklet has to do only with Measurements of Corsets, Bust Confiners, Abdominal and Surgical Belts. Instructions given, while clear, must be considered at all times in connection with conditions found upon the customer to be served. Particularly is this true with reference to "deductions." Study your work, your customer, yourself. Use judgment rather than blind adherence to general rules. Submit perplexing cases to us and you will meet no difficulties you can not overcome. HOW TO MEASURE THE FIGURE FOR CORSETS.
Cut "A" is a complete diagram of how and where to measure the figure correctly. All measurements should be taken over the corset with outer garments removed and corset properly laced and adjusted. In no other way can accurate measurements be taken and upon these the fit of the corset depends.
Measurements must be taken, first, around the figure, second longitudinally at different points. The waist line is the base from which all longitudinal measurements are taken.
To determine point of waist line. When corset is properly laced and adjusted place the tape with buckle around waist, usually at point of least circumference, so that the lower edge of the tape is exactly upon waist line, draw tightly and fasten to hold stationary while all longitudinal measurements are taken.
The Waist Size of the Corset is determined by the waist line of the figure as indicated by numerals 3-6-9 on Diagram, with 2 inches deducted.
Bust Size. Draw tape smoothly arQund figure, not tightly, as indicated by line I on Diagram, tape passing just over point of shoulder blades at back and over fullest part of bust and deduct 3 inches.
Hip Size. Draw tape tightly around hips as indicated by line (m-m) on cut A 5 inches below waist line for short corsets and for girdles; 6½ inches below for medium length corsets, and both 6½ and 9 inches below waist line for corsets of extreme length, and deduct three inches.
EXCEPTIONS. In Laced-in-Front Corsets never deduct more than 2 inches for waist, bust and one inch for hip, because spacing must be less in Front-Laced Corsets than spacing for Back-Laced Corsets. In Series 191, deduct 2 inches for waist, 3 inches for bust and 5 inches for hip as this has laces over groin as well as in back.
Measurement indicated by numerals 4-5 on Diagram "A" represents length of soft extension on corset below front clasp. This soft extension varies in length according to style of corset, from one and one-half to six inches.
Longitudinal measurements are taken from bottom of tape line both up and down as follows:
Front Clasp above waist is indicated by numerals 3-2 on Diagram.
Center Bust is indicated by numerals 6-1 on Diagram "A."
Under Arm measure is indicated by numerals 9-1 on Diagram "A," also 15-14, Cut "E."
Back Measure above waist is distance from waist line to top of corset measured from waist line up over shoulder blade about 10 inches from center back, indicated by dotted line, numerals 12-17, Cut "E."
Back below waist is distance from waist line down to bottom of corset. Numerals 12-13, Cut "E."
Hip Measure is indicated by numerals 9-10 to extreme point of hip, Diagram "A," also 15-16, Cut "E."
Groin Measure for material is indicated by numerals 6-7 on Diagram "A."
Front Clasp below waist is indicated by numerals 3-4 on Diagram.
All of these measurements should be taken to determine proper model for the figure to be corseted. But in placing orders for Standard Corsets only waist measure in addition to style, material and color is desired on Order Blank.
Our Catalog describes about fifty distinct styles, a style for every type of figure, and a mastery of these styles will enable one to avoid Special or Custom work except in extreme cases.
Length of corset in front must not be confused with length of front clasp. Cloth always extends a little above and below clasp, making length of corset greater than length of clasp.
Prove all measurements by taking them twice.
Measurements alone do not determine the model to be placed on a figure. They tell but half the story. The general contour of the figure, the particular location of fullness or scantiness as well as measurements must determine the model to be used. Good judgment must be employed at all times; without it good results cannot be secured.
SPECIAL AND CUSTOM MEASUREMENTS
Special and Custom Order Blanks must be used in ordering Special or Custom Corsets. Cross out the word "Special" or "Custom" whichever is not wanted. Follow all the instructions given on blank in detail. Never give the total length of corset in front, at side or on back. Measure from waist line, and give number of inches corset is to be built up or down from this line for each longitudinal measurement. This rule is imperative.
Custom Work should not be attempted until the proportions and adaptability of every model in the Catalog have been mastered. A proper knowledge of Spirella Models will enable one to select a style better adapted to the figure than is secured by undertaking Custom Work before models are mastered. While all Spirella Corsets are made-to-order corsets, they are not all Custom Corsets.
Should measurements vary from the proportions given for a particular model, and the figure to be corseted have one or two inches more or less bust or hip development than the Standard calls for, the lacing will adjust the difference and the Standard Corset can be worn successfully. The exceptions to this rule are the Laced-in-Front Corsets, in which not more than one inch variation should be allowed. Judgment however must be used. More than two inches should never be deducted for spacing and often one inch is sufficient. Under abnormal conditions sometimes no deductions are made.
Our Custom Department is splendidly equipped for the highest grade Custom work.
SPECIAL AND CUSTOM MEASUREMENTS.
To aid in better understanding the measurements necessary for Special and Custom work, an illustration is given on this page showing a Laced-in-Front corset of extreme length.
The Waist Line, from which all longitudinal measurements are taken, is plainly marked. The lines showing under bust, center. bust, over bust, boning, soft extension, and groin are also clearly marked. Compare carefully with Diagram "A."
The Under Bust portion (see line 6-8, Diagram "A"). extends from the waist line to that portion on the body where the bust begins to swell. This measurement is considered only in Special or Custom work. The distance necessarily varies, being greater or less on different figures.
Breathing Space is room allowed in a corset starting at waist line and extending to bust to give plenty of room through diaphragm.
The Center Bust, (see line 6-1, Diagram "A"), is the distance from waist line to the top of corsets with the exception of corsets carrying a bust extension.
The Over Bust Extension is that portion of the corset above the cent er bust section. In some cases the over bust is broken. In others it is a cup bust, as in some of the corset waists. The length of this over bust portion varies from 2 to 4 inches. Over Bust measurement, however, must be from the waist line to top of corset. Note difference between Over Bust Extension and Over Bust Measurement.
The line marked Boning on the Diagram indicates the point at which the boning generally stops. The boning is shorter in the groin than over the hip or in the back. In Spirella Corsets the Spirella Stays, or boning, vary in length. In corsets not carrying what is known as soft extension, the boning at the groin does not come to the bottom of the corset, the boning over the groin being a little· shorter than the length of the front clasp below the waist line (from ½ to 1½ inches).
The Groin is the bottom of the corset about midway between front clasp and hip.
The Soft Extension is that portion of the corset skirt below the front clasp which is without boning, This soft extension varies from 2 inches to any length desired and can be specialized by making longer or shorter when desired. It usually carries hook and eye fastening.
There is one right way and many wrong ways to measure a corset. A corset measured incorrectly may show a greater or less hip or bust development than when measured correctly. Instructions for measuring a figure for a corset are perfectly clear.
A corset then should be measured so that the line of measurement will come on the corset where the measurement would come on the figure. Cuts "G" and "H" show how to measure correctly different styles of corsets. These cuts show the measurements taken on a trimmed corset spread out flat, both around the top and 6½ inches below waist line. The method of taking measurements herein shown will apply to all of the corsets in the Catalog.
Cut "G" shows how to measure corsets practically straight around the top--all corsets except those carrying bust extension or girdle tops. When the top of the corset is about even with the center bust, the tape line should fall around the edge of the corset from the top of the back wire to the point directly opposite the front clasp. The hip measurement on the shorter corset shown in Cut "G" should be taken exactly six and one-half inches below the waist line, the tape line extending from the back stay to the front clasp, inclusive, covering a line six and one-half inches below the waist. In measuring the hip of a corset off the figure, care must be taken to allow for the "cup" in the hip.
Cut "H" shows how to place the tape line on a corset having the bust extension. The tape measure practically follows the contour of the corset from the top of the back wire to the under-arm, straight across the fullest part of the bust to the top of the front clasp. In determining the hip measurement of the extremely long corsets, the corset is measured at two points: First, six and one-half inches below the waist line; second. nine inches below the waist line. In case the measurement is taken nine inches below waist line, tape measure should pass below the groin to the bottom of the soft extension below front clasp. Care must also be taken in this measurement to allow for the "cup" in the hip.
These cuts are from photographs of corsets, the tape lines being adjusted while the corsets were on the figure, the corsets afterwards flattened out. Measuren1ent should follow the same lines when the corset is spread out as when on the figure. Good judgment must be used at all times in measuring different styles of corsets having different shapes around top and bottom. Care must be taken that the corset is stretched out flat. The natural tendency of the corset is to "full" or "gather" just a little, so that if a corset be thrown down and not stretched out flat, the development might show one inch short or thereabouts, when in reality the proper development is given to the corset.
Cut I shows how to place the tape line on a corset with an extreme low bust and having the girdle-top shaping, which means that the front clasp is higher than the cent er bust. The tape measure practically follows the contour of the corset from the top of the back-wire to the underarm across the top of the corset at center bust to front clasp, which will bring it down on front clasp about to. the top of the first hook. This measurement. taken as directed, will give you the development of the top of the corset. In measuring this corset off the figure, care must be taken to have the corset stretched out flat.
Corsetieres should not become confused by allowing the measurements of the figure and the measurements of the corset to conflict. The measurements of the figure and the measurements of the corset are two distinct operations. The measurements of the figure are always taken at exactly the same points, as outlined on pages 3 and 4 of this booklet, and are used as a basis upon which to form the judgment necessary to correct corset selection. These measurements are always taken the ,same, no matter whether the corset selected be high or low bust. The corset itself is only measured to verify the order sent in to find if directions have been accurately followed.
Measurements should not be taken over the gown as the flesh may not be confined to the best advantage and some change in its distribution may be necessary.
Measurements are best taken with the body well (correctly) corseted but with the bust unconfined; and the deduction from bust measurement for size will depend upon the amount, location of and the degree of firmness of the flesh to be cared for.
If the figure be small boned as is usual with a plump woman, flesh soft and average in amount, a deduction of one inch will be necessary.
If the amount of flesh be very great, or if the body be large boned and flesh medium in quantity but firm, make no deduction from bust measure for size.
Determine location of the waist line by placing a string about the waist at the smallest circumference as usual.
Waist Size is the waist measure without deduction. Bust Size is a smooth measurement around the body taken over the fullest part of the bust, with or without deduction as the figure requires.
Length of Back is taken directly through the center back from waist line at A to center of neck at B. (See Cut L.)
Length of Front should be taken from center of waist line at C up around neck O-O and down to C again. (See Cut K.)
C to D is the length from C at waist line to D at top of shoulder. (See Cut K.)
C to E is the length from C to E at center bust. (See Cut K.)
Length of Under Arm is taken from waist line to arm- pit.
Breadth of Back is taken across narrowest part between shoulders from F to G. (See Cut L.)
Breadth of Chest is taken straight across the front between the shoulders about half way between the fullest part of bust and base of neck, line H to J. (See Cut K.)
Breadth of Bust is taken from center of under arm to center under arm across the fullest part of bust on line M. (See Cut K.)
Girth of Arms Eye is taken loosely around shoulder joint. SPIRELLA SURGICAL BELT. STYLE 60.
Adaptability-Designed for Temporary Wear immediately following surgical operations. Unequaled as a permanent support in cases of chronic hernia or weak abdominal muscles. Adapted for the normal or fiat abdomen. Invaluable as an aid in restoring and preserving the natural contour of the body. Not designed as a Corpulency Belt, or for stout, portly figures.
Description-Light Weight. Best quality French Coutil. Boned with Spirella. Easily laundered, thoroughly hygienic. Adjustment of hose supporters at the center of front, instead of lower edge, Gives a strong upward support to the abdomen, prevents slipping and avoids any downward pressure. Lacing at hips simplifies adjustment, gives a snug, neat appearance. Can be fitted with special pads for the support of prolapsed kidneys. One complete set of No. 3 Hose Supporters attached, two in front and one over each hip.
Adjustment-Loosen lacers well, slip garment over the shoulders, place center front in correct position, adjust hose supporters, draw up lacers gradually on each side, cross them over the back, pass forward and tie under hose supporter tabs in front.
Standard Measurements-Style 60-Center Front, 9½ inches from top to bottom; groin, 7; Lacing, 5; Center Back, 6. Standard hip sizes 26 to 40.
With patient in reclining position, knees bent, take actual hip measure, six inches below waist line, and deduct from one to four inches for size. Deviations will require a Special. For prices see Price List. ABDOMINAL SUPPORTERS, STYLE "E."
Abdominal Supporters are designed to prevent the dragging down of the abdomen where corpulency exists. Many ailments, such as lumbago and kidney troubles, as well as hernia, are directly traceable to unsupported corpulency. To wear abdominal supporters is to prevent disease and add grace and comfort to the body.
They are rapidly coming into use by both men and women of corpulent tendency because the abdominal support they afford enables such persons to indulge in long walks, golfing, horseback and bicycle riding and other athletic exercises with ease and comfort, invariably reducing the abdomen, improving the form and preventing disease.
Standard Measurements—Belt "E."—M-L., 4 in.; L-K, 5 in.; H-I, 2½ in.; I-J, 2½ in. Belts requiring measurements differing from these will be Special and charged for accordingly. (See Diagram page 14.)
The Spirella Abdominal Supporter for Men, Style "E," is scientifically designed to support abdominal corpulency. Boned with the unbreakable, rust proof Spirella Boning. Comfortable, hygienic, durable, the best made. Standard sizes 36 to 48, actual measurement on line I to L of Diagram, page 14. For prices see Price List.
12 ABDOMINAL SUPPORTERS, STYLE "D."
Abdominal Supporters are recognized by Physicians as a necessity for men and women with a pronounced tendency to corpulency. The extra weight thrown on the abdominal muscles is oftentimes too great and not only discomfort;but actual injury may ensue. One form of Hernia (umbilical) is directly traceable to this strain upon the abdominal muscles. Especially adapted to types like Figs. 7 and 8 on Custom and Special Order Blank.
To wear a proper abdominal supporter is to guard against disease. The Spirella Abdominal Belt for women, Style "D," is designed on strictly scientific prindples, throwing the extra abdomin;:tI weight on the hips at back, while lifting into proper position and there supporting the excessive corpulency.
Standard Measurements-Belt "D."-M-L, 3 in.; L-K, 4 in.; H-I, 2 in.; I-J, 2 in. Belts requiring measurements differing from these will be Special and charged for accordingly. (See Diagram page 14.)
Boned with the unbreakable rust proof Spirella Boning, this Abdominal Supporter is the most comfortable, most hygienic, most scientific supporter made. Standard sizes 38 to 50, actual measurement on line I to L of Diagram, page 14. For prices see Price List.
The patient should be measured reclining with the knees drawn up; this allows the abdominal organs to relax and return to their natural position.
I-L is the measurement around the small of the back and across the largest part of the abdomen. This is the basic measurement from which the garment is built.
H-M is the measurement around the figure at point to which top of garment will extend at its smallest circumference.
J-K is the measurement across the lower part of the back and around the front under the fullness of the abdomen at point of lower edge of garment.
L-M is the center front from upper edge to fullest part of abdomen.
L-K is the center front length from fullest part of abdomen down to the lower edge in front.
I-H is the length from small of back to upper edge.
I-J is the length from small of back to lower edge of garment in back.
'Also give actual waist measurement if garment is desired for a woman.
Breadth of Hips. The total breadth across the front between prominent points of hip bones. Measure from bone to bone showing amount of flesh carried in front.
We must also know whether abdomen, side hip and back below waist are full, medium or scant.
Give location of hernia, incision or any special point to be considered.
A Sanitary necessity which will meet with the approval of every woman.
Instantly adjusted and securely fastened without the aid of pins.
Light weight. Durable, hygienic. Made of best Sterling Cloth. For prices see Price List.
The Waist Line is distance around the body at the waist on the line of least circumference. The Waist Line of a Spirella Corset is at the cent er of the tape at waist.
The Waist Line is the base from which all corset measurements are taken. Standard Corsets are built from established measurements, the bust and hip measurements each being a specific number of inches greater than waist size. This increased size of bust and hip over waist measure is termed "Development," written Dev.
Dev. 13:15 means that the bust or top of corset is 13 inches greater and the hip or bottom of corset 15 inches greater than waist size. The number given first after Dev. gives the bust development and the other number or numbers the hip development.
Development 15:14-17 means that the bust measurement at top of corset is 15 inches larger than waist size; that the hip measurement 6½ inches below waist line is 14 inches larger and measured 9 inches below is 17 inches larg-er. In various models of corsets the bust and hip fullness is distributed differently to meet the requirements of figures having fleshy back and under arm, or those having full heavy busts and the large back or side hip, or large protruding abdomen.
Dev.--Development. F.C.--Front Clasp.
ABOVE means from waist line to top.
BELOW means from waist line to bottom.
C.B.--Center Bust.--Length from waist line to top of corset not carrying a bust extension.
O.B.--Over Bust Measurement-Length from waist line to top of corset over bust. Used only in connection with corsets carrying a bust extension or cup bust.
Over Bust Extension-Distance from center of bust to top of corset.
G.--Groin--Length of corset from waist line to bottom at groin.
U.A.--Under Arm-Height from waist line to top under arm.
H.--Rip-Length from waist line to bottom over side hip.
B.--Back-From waist line to top in back for above. From waist line to bottom in back for below.
CLASPS--Tapering Clasps (sometimes called graduated clasps) used in corsets for stout figures are three-eighths of an inch wide at the top, gradually increasing in width to three-fourths of an inch at the waist line and one inch at the bottom, thus adding strength at waist line and support at bottom for prominent abdomen. This clasp cannot be furnished in lengths greater than 14 inches.
Hose Supporters can be furnished separately and in any quantity at prices in Price List.
15 TRIMMING AND HOSE SUPPORTERS.
Trimming--Unless otherwise specifically ordered and the necessary change in price allowed therefor all Spirella Corsets will be trimmed as indicated in t:le Catalog. Girdles are trimmed with lace.
Hose Supporters--Spirella Corsets should have hose supporters attached. Medium and long corsets should have front and side hose supporters. (One set consists of four strips.) Short hip corsets should have at least front supporters. Laced-in-Front corsets should carry hose supporters as indicated in the Catalog. A full line of supporters should be carried with samples. Velvet Grip Hose Supporters only, recognized as the best on the market, are supplied with Spirella Corsets at the prices given.
Our Trade Mark on back cover illustrates the Spirella Boning used in all Spirella Corsets. It is the only rust proof, unbreakable guaranteed Corset Boning known to mechanical art.
Art Gum--For cleaning corsets and other garments slightly soiled we recommend the Spirella Art Gum. Cleanly, easily applied and effective. Sample cake postpaid 10c. For prices in half dozen and dozen lots see Wholesale Price List.
General Office and Factory
MEADVILLE. PENNA., U. S. A.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF CANADA.
Niagara Falls. Ontario.
THE SPIRELLA COMPANY OF GREAT
Letchworth (Garden City). England.
Standard Press. Erie, Pa.
REG. US PAT. OFF.
UNITED STATES AND FOREIGN